UKC

Quickdraws for Spain (Sella, Costa Blanca etc)

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 jibberingwreck 02 Dec 2008
Hello,

Just wondered how many and what lengths I should take?

Thanks

Ben
 Merlin 02 Dec 2008
In reply to jibberingwreck:

17,

13.5cm.
 Nic 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Merlin:

no way.

13.5

17cm
 M. Edwards 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Merlin:
> (In reply to jibberingwreck)
>
> 17,
>
> 13.5cm.

Just wondering... why an odd number of quick-draws? Would have thought an even number, equal amounts on both sides...small unimportant point I know. Mark
In reply to Merlin: Tw*t
 Adrian Bates 30 Dec 2008
In reply to jibberingwreck:

This is a question that comes up every now again. I would say you probably need a dozen and a few more if you can manage it.

As for length, well it really depends on what routes you plan. if you are going to be sticking to bolted routes then the shortest you have will be fine. If, however, you want to try some of the truly classic trad routes then you will want a standard set of trad quickdraws.

Cheers Adrian
John Broadhead 30 Dec 2008
In reply to jibberingwreck:
> Hello,
>
> Just wondered how many and what lengths I should take?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ben

I climb regularly on the Costa Blance. I have 15 quickdraws and use them all on some of the longer bolted routes. On the trad routes, up to 10 may typically be used. With regard to length, doesn't really matter that much, but mine are all 12cm approx.

Hope this is useful.

John B.
 Sean_J 30 Dec 2008
In reply to jibberingwreck: Depends on the length of routes - when packing for destinations unknown I assume a max of 2 bolts every 5m, so for a crag with routes up to 30m long i'd plan on carrying twelve draws for the route, plus two for the lower-off. Plus an extra if I drop one. I usually take mostly short (10/12cm) draws with two 20cm ones, and if it looks like the route meanders a bit or the bolts are oddly placed then maybe replace some of the short draws with 30cm draws. Might even take a 60cm sling tripled-up to make a 20cm draw that will extend for badly-placed bolts that create rope drag (also useful at belays and equalising lower-offs!)

In summary, about 14 short 'uns and 3 or 4 20/30cm ones plus a 60cm tripled up should see you though anything Don't forget to pack your cow's tail too!
In reply to Sean_J: Thanks for your reply (plus the two previous responses).

Looks like I need to purchase a few more

Roll on Costa Blanca!
In reply to Adrian Bates: Thanks Adrian. Can't wait to get our there!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 31 Dec 2008
In reply to jibberingwreck:

Off-hand I can't think of any route that requires more than about eight q-ds! I suspect that eighteen would be overkill.

Chris
Chris Tan Ver. LI - On the Bog 01 Jan 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ditto! Never take more than 8 as I'll expect my partner to have a similar number.
In reply to Chris Craggs: Thanks Chris.

Somehwere between 8 and 18 it is then...!
 Al Evans 01 Jan 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to jibberingwreck)
>
> Off-hand I can't think of any route that requires more than about eight q-ds! I suspect that eighteen would be overkill.
>
> Chris

Jesus Christ, dont you carry the odd spare in case you drop one, or other eventualities, I would always carry at least 12.
 Adrian Bates 02 Jan 2009
In reply to jibberingwreck:

It also depends on the length of rope that you have. If you only have a 50m rope then you aren't going to be climbing the longer routes that need a 60m or even 70m rope and hence more quickdraws.

Adrian
 Dax 02 Jan 2009
In reply to Adrian Bates:

Hard at work Arian?

Oh to be climbing in Spain in the warm sun.

I've forgotten what the sun looks like let alone the feeling of it's warming effects.
 magpie 02 Jan 2009
In reply to jibberingwreck: We got back yesterday, managed fine with 12, didn't need them all on any route we did. As the others have said you may need more for long routes or trad stuff but 12 short-ish ones were fine for us.

The weather's lovely by the way, I'm sorry I came back
paw 04 Jan 2009
In reply to jibberingwreck: I have not long just come back from spain climbing and found that Quick draws 12 was plenty plus a couple of extendable draws for the trad routes.

Hope this helps

Paul




 Andy Hudson 04 Jan 2009
In reply to jibberingwreck:
At least 12....there was a single pitch route we did at Sella this year and i'm sure i used 12 and depending whether you use quick draws to clip to the lower off you may need a couple more
 jas wood 04 Jan 2009
In reply to jibberingwreck: for the average route 12 is sufficient and i,m surprised no-one has mentioned putting a scewgate on the first bolt as i do.

jas
 Al Evans 04 Jan 2009
In reply to Dax:
> (In reply to Adrian Bates)

> Oh to be climbing in Spain in the warm sun.

Its been p*****g it down all day!
 Al Evans 04 Jan 2009
In reply to Andy Hudson:
> (In reply to jibberingwreck)
> At least 12....there was a single pitch route we did at Sella this year and i'm sure i used 12 and depending whether you use quick draws to clip to the lower off you may need a couple more


Possibly Rosalind Sutton, 38mts.
 Andy Hudson 04 Jan 2009
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Andy Hudson)
> [...]
>
>
> Possibly Rosalind Sutton, 38mts.


It was La Verguenza II in sector final, only 18mtrs but i do remember using a lot of quickdraws, at least i had enough.. The guy who did the climb before me and was on a course learnt he didn't have enough.

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