UKC

LOCAL NEWS: Infinite Gravity - Re-Equipped

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 Jack Geldard 04 Dec 2008
Gaz Parry has made the third ascent of Infinite Gravity at Blackers Hole, Swanage. This 40m route was first climbed by Pete Oxley in 1992 and has seen only one repeat prior to Gaz's ascent, by Bristol based climber Dave Pickford.

"It's just such an amazing route it deserves some attention. At pumpy 8a+ it's achievable by a lot of UK climbers."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45487
 GrahamD 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good to see those Swanage desperates getting climbed. Has Laughing Arthur had any repeats yet ?
 Mick Ward 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant! And a great effort from Gaz P and Longy rebolting it (bloody hard work!?) It's time Blackers Hole and Palace of the Brine saw more attention. (The latter is like a vast Spanish cave; the former is, reputedly, even more impressive!)

Pete Oxley left such a legacy of hard routes, particularly roof routes, which he loved. They're crying out for more ascents.

Hopefully this is the start of a resurgence of interest.

Mick
 Mick Ward 04 Dec 2008
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Has Laughing Arthur had any repeats yet ?

Don't think so. They were going to clean it but the sea was too wild.

Mick

OP Jack Geldard 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ward: I was told Mikey Robertson had done it, but I could be mistaken - not my patch.

Jack
 Nic 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ward:

Yep, second that (I mean the post, not the route!). Re-equipping that with staples will have been damn hard work.
 steve taylor 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Mike climbed Laughing Arthur as an aid route with Mark Williams. Probably the first one-day ascent.

As far as I know, it's not had a repeat free ascent, which is a crying shame. Any fixed gear on the route will be pretty minging by now.

Hopefully it will be re-equipped soon. I know Gaz and Andy are very keen to get on it.

Note that Infinite Gravity has been rebolted using BMC-supplied bolts - good on them.
 JDSwain 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Its awesome to see some of the Swanage test pieces being given some well needed attention.
 Mark Stevenson 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Excellent effort Gaz and nice one for helping Andy.

Unfortunately I think it'll be a fair while before I get on it...
 steve taylor 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

I'm told it is "only" 3 7b+'s, with reasonable rests in between.
In reply to steve taylor:
>
>
> I'm told it is "only" 3 7b+'s, with reasonable rests in between.

hmm that sounds exactly like the a description of supercool i heard. In actuality it felt more like 3 7c's.


cheers
Tim
 AJM 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ward:

Never been down, but I've always thought from the guidebook that Palace of the Brine looked ridiculous and awe inspiring. Infinite Gravity looks mental too.

Maybe one day it'll be worth me heading down there to climb

AJM
 Mick Ward 04 Dec 2008
In reply to AJM:

> Maybe one day it'll be worth me heading down there to climb

Me too. We live in hope. Am off to train (and dream).

Mick
 AJM 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ward:

At an entry level of maybe E4/5 and 7c+ or so, I think it might take me a bit longer than you

Couple of years, a lot of training and a dedicated and similarly psyched partner, and maybe I'll be there. Temple Redneck and Drunken Butterfly - even the names make me think "cool"

AJM
 Richard Horn 05 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I would also like to add a thanks to Gaz and Andy for rebolting this route. I may never get strong enough but this route has been on my want-to-do list for a while now!

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