In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I haven't got loads of time to reply on here or anywhere to anything directly so I'll post here a copied/edited version of what I put on UKB:
For the record I reckon its E8 7a. Though with the disclaimer that I haven't done that much in those numbers, but its definitely a good deal harder than EOTA! Fb 7b+ is about right.
I didn't trust the ballnut that much, but thought I'd prob be ok having seen Jack wing off it, so went for it after linking it for the first time (i'd had a few goes on the moves on a rope the previous weekend). Someone else has clearly been trying it cos there was loads more chalk on it than last weekend, and on some "non sequence" holds.
The gear fell out on me mid crux, having had a pull test from the floor, after it had been placed "on lead".
Something to watch now is that the placement is pretty scarred after Sunday's GU antics and I wouldn't be surprised if the next size up fits now or soon if people continue to wing onto it, whether that contributed to it falling out on me or not I don't know, I'm just glad I didn't take the solo fall onto the pads which wouldn't have been in the right place.
I didn't have the ladder/pads in the hole, just 2 pads covering the block you start off (assuming the same as the yanks) and an extra one on the block behind I thought I might smack my head on. I was intending to put a lid on but thought it would annoy me so swapped the helmet for a pad on the boulder.
Comparing The Promise to routes of similar grades I've done and in the style I did it in I felt it definitely justified E8 (and probably right at the top of the grade) in terms of E for overall effort (which is in reality all you can do on headpoint). If EOTA is benchmark E8 (and its been that for c.22 years and no-one's really argued) then The Promise felt harder in terms of E for effort. Comparing the two directly (and for the record I've done both in very similar style) they are at opposite ends of E8. And as its a direct comparison then the same applies within reason to the theoretical onsight as there's nothing hidden in either route. Both are sequency, easyish once you know how, gear is not tricky to place, possible injury etc
Doing it with so many pads/ladder covering hole etc then maybe it would feel easier but I'd feel a bit bold and dare I say it inflammatory giving it E7. But, I didn't GU and Pete has way more experience in the lofty grades than me.
Had the gear been kicked out on one of the GU ascents/Jack's attempts would we be having the same discussion? E9?
Comparing it to superstition yeah its not E8, but given that (AFAIK) no-one but Miles can even do the damn thing top rope or no top rope would anyone be arguing with superstition getting E9 or possibly harder? Same goes for superbloc. All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes.
Anyway, it looks like I've just walked my way into a grade debate I didn't much want to get into. I do think The Promise has got some awesome moves on it and I really enjoyed climbing it. So thanks to James for putting it up. I'm just hoping nobody spanners themselves in this craze we've got going on.
Take care out there and for God's sake enjoy it.