UKC

NEWS: Dan Varian Repeats Superbloc E8/Font 8a

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 Jack Geldard 08 Dec 2008
Kevin Avery Reports:

In an exciting weekend of gritstone action, 21 year old Dan Varian made the first ground-up ascent and second ascent overall, of Miles Gibson's Superbloc at Moorside Rocks in the Peak District.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45495
 Tyler 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

From the report: " the new Peak District bouldering guide it suggests that highball Font 8a may be nearer the mark. Whilst Dan wasn't specific about the numbers he did say that he felt it may be a tad harder than that"

And this from the man that considers a three finger edge pull up font 7a+! Given the current grading controversies I'm surprised the Beastmaker people can get away with this, I demand the BMC intervene.

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Hold%20RECORDS.htm
 UKB Shark 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Tyler:

I like their style. They make fingerboarding seem funky. Given they get up FB8whatever outside but can 'only' manage 7c inside where they would seem to spend most of their climbing time I think we can conclude there is an element of undergrading.

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com Reductionism ...hmm..wonder where they picked that up from.

Back-two basics for the rest of us I think.
 Tyler 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Yes I think back-two training will be one of the key themes of 2009 along with longer skirts (we are in a recession after all), earthy colours and thrift shopping.
 mlt 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I'm confused. Is this tongue-in-cheek?
 john howard 1 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Nice one!
 Sam Mayfield 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Congrats Dan, good effort!

We must edit your "face punch and water drop!" video...

Sam and Rich Orange
 Tom Peckitt 09 Dec 2008
Good stuff. Looks superb and difficult. I assume it is E8 without pads though. Looks like a hard highball with all those mats on the deck.
In reply to Tom Peckitt:

Hi Tom

Dan never actually commented on the grade, other than saying it was possibly a tad harder than the guidebook-proposed Font 8a. He did say however that there was no way it was worth an E grade in this pad protected style.

The headline grades are merely taken from the most recent guides.

Cheers

Kevin
 Tom Peckitt 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:

That makes sense. I wasn't trying to imply that Dan did claim E8, just curious. It looks brilliant and on my list for when I finally make it out of Yorkshire

Again, good effort
 UKB Shark 17 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Mike/Mick Adams reported on UKB as having repeated Superbloc this morning.

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