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Best Climbing Area- Bangor or Shef?

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It's basically a toss up between Bangor or Sheffield. I'm currently swaying towards bangor, as the climbing there interests me and I have hardly done anything there. But at the same time I imagine the number of indoor walls and the scene will probably improve my climbing more. What are the pros/ cons of both places? Any indoor walls in bangor? Wet weather venues? How do the number of climbers compare?


cheers,


franco
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I imagine Bangor would be a pretty dull place in comparison with Sheffield

What about Leeds too?
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:

Bangor's a lot closer to proper hills.
 Michael Ryan 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Tall Clare:
> (In reply to 2pints)
>
> Bangor's a lot closer to proper hills.

Isn't Sheffield closer to the Alps?

 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
> I imagine Bangor would be a pretty dull place in comparison with Sheffield
>

Why? have you ever visited Bangor?

4000 other students. No Uni is dull.

Bangor has lots going for it, mainly the outdoor life, indoor at the beacons OK.

I reckon any climber would be happy at Bangor or Sheffield. Bouldering is good at both, Bangor has a greater range of cragging from great sea cliffs, to crags like Tremodog, the quarries and then the mountains themselves.

Sheffield has all the walls then the grit and limestone areas. Both nice places to live.
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

bah! foiled again!

you're right.
wilf1 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Indoor walls:............

The beacon (great place, friendly and always seems to be busy)
Plas Y Brenin (has a good size wall and again plenty of people)

Loads of variation around Wales longer mountain routes, sea cliffs.

JOe Brown couldn't be wrong when he moved .... could he ??
 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints: You really do come across as ignorant.

wilf1 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Oh yeah .......... and very few traffic jams !

Unless you count the cue to get out of Tesco's carpark on a Saturday afternoon !
wilf1 08 Dec 2008
In reply to wilf1:

(SP) Queue !!!!!!!!!

<goes back in to cave to watch>
 NickD 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Bangor's closer to Yosemite.
 James Oswald 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I personally opted against Bangor due to it's lack of night life. However Bangor does offer more variety. Which has the most rain?
ames
 mux 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I would go Bangor if I were you ...it will do you the world of good to get on the hills and sea cliffs for a bit and away from the grit.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: If your thinking in terms of which uni to go to, bangors got a pretty crap reputation. Shefields a little more repectable.

On balance id go with sheffield, good uni very close to good climbing.
 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to remtherockclimber:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) If your thinking in terms of which uni to go to, bangors got a pretty crap reputation. Shefields a little more repectable.
>
>

What a stupid statement. Look at departments rather than Universities as a whole.
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: The walls are excellent, Indy rocks, and is hardly ever crowded cos only BUMS and the army can use it. then there's the one in the fridd site gymn which looks crap at first glance but has enough potential to keep you interested for at least a couple of years, and is CHEAP.
The real climbing is just bigger, better and more varied than the peak.
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
If you like more adventure and variety in your climbing, go for Bangor. So much variation from Cloggy to Gogarth, slate and Llandudno. Its hard to beat (although it does lack steep sport apart from LPT).
Sheffield wins on city life - massive student population (35,000 alone at Sheff Uni). Grit on your door step, plenty of walls. Lots of steep limestone (but can be a bit dank). But doesnt feel as adventurous as N.Wales climbing.
Also Sheff is central so better access to Yorkshire, Scotland, Lakes etc.
Weather is probably similar. N.Wales has lots of rain in the hills but Anglesey is one of UK sunniest spots. Sheff is alot drier than Manchester side.
Either way you'll have a good time.
 Matt Vigg 08 Dec 2008
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
Snorkers 08 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to remtherockclimber)

> What a stupid statement. Look at departments rather than Universities as a whole.

Too right. Having studied for a year at Bangor and spent 3 years studying/working at both Durham and Southampton Universities, I have no doubt as to which of the three was by far the least pretentious (both as a university and student body) and had academics who you could really connect with, and get into their field of expertise....Plus the climbing was fantastic. Then again, I wasn't much of a one for heading down the Occy of a Friday night (Bangor's only club at the time), and still have my teeth to prove it.
 Mike Highbury 08 Dec 2008
 Andy Hardy 08 Dec 2008
In reply to MattDTC:

Bangor to Keswick 3 1/2 hr
Sheffield to Keswick 3 hr

(Both from AA route planner), an extra 1 hr travelling to / from the lakes (and presumably scotland)

Clearly Bangor is closer to N Wales, and we can dismiss Yorkshire as being worth a visit climbing wise*, so on balance, I'd say Bangor was better.

*I love it really - only trying to keep the crowds at bay
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Snorkers: I have been to Ocky multiple times and still have all my teeth, though it's not my preferred place, theres the student union club (time) and the SU bar, which is nearly a club anyway.

BANGOR!!
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 999thAndy:

Best limestone sports crags in the UK not worth a visit?

Having said that, if you live in Bangor there is probably less of a need to travel, cos you have alot more variety on your door step anyway.
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
This is a kickin night out in Bangor;

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/56/146130683_462dcd6b56.jpg?v=0
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

As you're paying £3250 (?) approx for each year you plan to "study", wouldn't the academic reputation of the University not have something to do with your choice?

MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:
Spoil sport.
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to MattDTC:
Sorry, when I turned 25 I became a "Grown Up"

Don't forget tho Yoof, if you're spending £20k + on doing your degree you don't want to come to the end of the final year and realise you've got a crap degree class from a 2nd rate uni you went to just because of the climbing.

Would be much cheaper just to have a Gap 3 years and then go back and STUDY at uni?
 DaveR 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:

I agree with you on not much point in going to a crap uni just for the climbing, but are these crap unis? And if you are going to be living somewhere for at least 3 years, I'd want to be somewhere I like. No use it being at a great uni if you can't enjoy yourelf as well, because chances are you wont get as much out of it or work as hard.
 martin heywood 08 Dec 2008
In reply to MattDTC:
> (In reply to 999thAndy)
>
> Best limestone sports crags in the UK not worth a visit?
>

I thought they were in Yorkshire, anyway The trad climbing is way better in North Wales and the proximity to the sea gives it something extra.

MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:

'when I turned 25...'

Your profile shows you as 22. Are you going backwards through time?
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to DaveR:
I don't think Bangor would make it into top 50 Unis in Britain but then again Sheffield is Russell Group

I agree with your point tho in full, I know from experience, but academic reputation is V IMPORTANT.
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:

focus on what IainRUK said about departments... I know people who've had hugely positive experiences at smaller universities such as Bangor, who might have been swamped by the likes of Sheffield.

 Jon Jones 08 Dec 2008
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

It's not the Ocky anymore, it's called BLISS!
 Doug 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints: Depends on subject, Bangor's pretty highly rated for marine biology and plant ecology, maybe for other subjects as well.
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to martin heywood:
> (In reply to MattDTC)
> [...]
>
> I thought they were in Yorkshire

Yeah, thats what I'm saying.

>
>anyway The trad climbing is way better in North Wales and the proximity >to the sea gives it something extra.

I agree.

 galpinos 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:
>
> I agree with your point tho in full, I know from experience, but academic reputation is V IMPORTANT.

As long as the department at the Uni is good at what you want to do. The idea of a uni in general being good compared to another is long gone. Sheffied has (or had when I was there) well respected departments and departments that weren't exactly held in high regard. This is the same for all unis. I've no idea about what Bangor is like but I'm sure a bit of research by the OP would be enouh to find out.

I wouldn't listen to me though, I picked all my unis in a circle aroud the peak!
Snorkers 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Tall Clare:

Spot on, Clare.
 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Doug: I think Psychology is its other leading area. Marine Biology isn't as strong as it was, but we are still considered one of the better marine centres, though I'm not sure we can say the best anymore. Generally ocean sciences is still OK though.
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to galpinos:

Ha ha, I'm looking into doing my MSc at Uni of Amsterdam...
 gribble 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
The beer is MUCH better in Sheff.
 Andy Hardy 08 Dec 2008
In reply to MattDTC:
> (In reply to 999thAndy)
>
> Best limestone sports crags ...

You can go clipping on your holidays to Spain. It rains 360 days a year in Yorkshire...

>
> Having said that, if you live in Bangor there is probably less of a need to travel, cos you have alot more variety on your door step anyway.

Amen Bro.

The Peak is all very well, but:-

How many multi-pitch mountain routes are there? (none).
How many guidebooks to winter climbing in the peak? (none).
How many mountains are in the peak? (none).
How many Welsh climbers do you meet in the Peak (very few).
How many English climbers do you meet in Wales (loads).

Those last 2 should tell you which would be best.


Basically Bangor is going to be a much better choice in terms of accesibility to the fully rounded climbing experience.

In reply to 2pints:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
> As you're paying £3250 (?) approx for each year you plan to "study", wouldn't the academic reputation of the University not have something to do with your choice?


nah.



the entry levels for the course I want to do (german) are CCC at Bangor and BBC at sheffield. So sheffield is obviously slightly better. But i'd prefer to have an awesome four years and be an ace climber, with a slightly lesser degree than tother way round. Plus there's a massive demand for MFL graduates anyway, so I figure it'll be reet.


cheers for the response though guys, usful. Could someone make a definitive list of all the climbing walls around bangor as it's hard to pick it all out from this thread. Cheers
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Best of luck yoof, at least you're not doing a total doss like "Sociology or "Media Studies" or even... "African Studies!

You could always go and work in Switzerland, imagine the climbing possibilities there lol!
Snorkers 08 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:

Generally ocean sciences is still OK though.

Is that where you are? I was in Ocean Sciences.
In reply to 2pints: yeh, I used to be clever, but alas I lost intelligence. Bs should be oright though...
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

PS: I didn't mean anything by the comment re Media Studies/Sociology etc, Im sure they're really valuable degrees!

Good luck with it all, just dont't forget you get a degree for acheivement rather than just turning up (As I found out) ha ha
MattDTC 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 999thAndy:

Yeah, but how many proper hard climbers are there in Bangor?

Franco wants to be a 'climbing ace' so he'll have to go to sheff for some proper mentoring.
 The Pylon King 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:


f*ck education - it'll do you no good, itll just make you think youre intelligent.
F*ck sheffield cause its full of c*nts.
Wales rules.
 Mike Stretford 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: You know, these threads are usually swapmed by Sheffielders or North Welians fighting over which is the best place. I would have expected well over 200 posts by now.

Can't think why that hasn't happended in this case?
In reply to The Pylon King:

Whales it is then. I doughnt need educationg anyway.
In reply to Papillon:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) You know, these threads are usually swapmed by Sheffielders or North Welians fighting over which is the best place. I would have expected well over 200 posts by now.
>
> Can't think why that hasn't happended in this case?

cause people respect my factual approach and realise it would be unfair to ruin the one thread started by a non-oppinionated poster?
 Nevis-the-cat 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:


You will do one term of manic climbing then quickly turn ino Johnny Vegas due to your diet of pies and bitter.
 Calder 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to The Pylon King)
>
> Whales it is then. I doughnt need educationg anyway.

Love it!

I was going to put a post on the other thread when you used the word 'mint'. Now, most your posts make up for in entertainment what they lack in sense, but use of the word 'mint' is unforgiveable.

You may have just redeemed yourself with this one though.
 Calder 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

The proximity of Gogarth to Bangor surely makes this one a no-brainer. And that's before the rest of North Wales' climbing is factored in.

The peak just can't compete.
In reply to Calder:

To be honest I have only climbed at the slate quarries in wales and the shear awesomeness of the routes there would persuade me to go there on their own. Comes the dervish! wow! Knowing this is a poorer venue than the pass, cloggy, trawhateveritis and gogarth makes me twitch a little.
 Mike Stretford 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Yeah that'll be it.
 martin heywood 08 Dec 2008
In reply to The Pylon King:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
>
> f*ck education - it'll do you no good, itll just make you think youre intelligent.
> F*ck sheffield cause its full of c*nts.
> Wales rules.



Now now, there are a few cnuts in North Wales too (though less, admittedly)
 1234None 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Major consideration in the UK has to be the volume of QUICK-DRYING rock around.

I agree the mountain crags and sea cliffs of North Wales are much more inspiring than grit, but if it's alot of time out on real rock you're after - rather than time at the wall, would being close to quick drying grit that is easily accessible not be a good option.

Cloggy, the Cromlech etc etc are all stunning and much more inspiring than short grit routes, but how many days are their routes unclimable due to weather compared to the grit. Also how accessible without a car on a regular basis?

it;s possible to get out easily on the grit easily for half days between showers. Does stuff dry that quick in North Wales?
 galpinos 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Plus there's a massive demand for MFL graduates anyway, so I figure it'll be reet.

Really? To do what? (Just wondering as I know a lot of MFL graduates)
In reply to galpinos: foriegn business, english native speaking translators- so I hear....
 ClimberEd 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 1234None:

But you have the benefit that there is normally dry rock somewhere in N Wales - often Tremadog or Gogarth.
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Jon Jones: It's called Octagon AND Bliss.
 1234None 08 Dec 2008
In reply to ClimberEd:
> (In reply to PeakDJ)
>
> But you have the benefit that there is normally dry rock somewhere in N Wales - often Tremadog or Gogarth.

And - say - if you had half a day off, how much climbing would you get done at either of those locations after making the journey by bus?

In reply to 1234None: enough time to solo dream I imagine.....
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 1234None: You can watch slate dry, in about 10 minutes.
 1234None 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Yeah - good point. On relection - go to Wales. It's much better there.
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 08 Dec 2008
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: And the bus journey takes 20 minutes. so easily accessible too.
 Tamati 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Granted, the range of climbing is possibly better near bangor. But are the crags as easy to reach?? Perhaps this is what needs researching. Sheffield is awesome, because you're in great city but within 20 mins you're in the peaks. On public transport.

 Coel Hellier 08 Dec 2008
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

> You can watch slate dry, in about 10 minutes.

But only when it isn't actually raining, which is quite rare in Llanberis.
 chris wyatt 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Franco. I really think you should spread the net a bit.

Here are a few questions :

1) What unis have the best reputation for teaching modern languages (not research cos you don't do that till later!)
2) What are the total costs - you do end up paying them back
3) Does the uni in question have good climbing around?
4) Does the uni have a good climbing scene - are you going to get together with first class , unpretentions partners or is the scene marred by oneupmanship?
5) Is there a reasonable wall to train at.
6) what are the transport links to the rest of the world like?

On that basis you could consider :

Exeter
Bath
Swansea
Cardiff
Bristol
Bangor
Manchester
Sheffield

In reply to chris wyatt:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) Franco. I really think you should spread the net a bit.
>
> Here are a few questions :
>
> 1) What unis have the best reputation for teaching modern languages (not research cos you don't do that till later!)
> 2) What are the total costs - you do end up paying them back
> 3) Does the uni in question have good climbing around?
> 4) Does the uni have a good climbing scene - are you going to get together with first class , unpretentions partners or is the scene marred by oneupmanship?
> 5) Is there a reasonable wall to train at.
> 6) what are the transport links to the rest of the world like?

I agree entirely

> On that basis you could consider :
>
> Exeter
> Bath
> Swansea
> Cardiff
> Bristol

I disagree entirely.

> Bangor
> Manchester
> Sheffield

The three unis I applied for. I would sacrifice a slightly poorer climbing scene, for a much better education, but I wouldn't go to bath. Where you going to go on an evening? You'd soon get board of that canyon place.
 Mike Peacock 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I can't be bothered to read the entirety of this thread but I'll just say that I came to Bangor in 2004 and have loved it so much I haven't left.

If you can't drive then the public transport is fairly decent (if you can decipher the timetables). The night life might not compare to Sheffield but there are plenty of good pubs, and its easy enough to get to Chester or Liverpool for gigs or nights out.

If you get bored of climbing then Anglesey and the Lleyn have some fantastic beaches.

If you're studying German than I have heard good things about the Languages department from friends, but I don't know too much in depth info about it.
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to chris wyatt)

>
> but I wouldn't go to bath. Where you going to go on an evening? You'd soon get board of that canyon place.

lol, the people I know who are most committed to climbing over the last twenty years are all ex-Bath Mountaineering Club alumni/hangers on...

 Mike Peacock 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Tamati:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
> Granted, the range of climbing is possibly better near bangor. But are the crags as easy to reach??

It depends how early you get up.

There's a 7:30am direct bus from Bangor to Betws that goes via the Ogwen Valley. If you go later (9:40am) you have to change at Bethesda but will still be at Ogwen for 10:20am. To get to Llanberis you're talking 40-50mins as the bus goes via lots of little villages like Rhiwlas and such.
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

another random aside, but as you seem to like to walk a different path to the herd, I have high hopes for you being more imaginative than to go to Sheffield.
In reply to Tall Clare: me? not conforming? nahhhhh.....
 Tall Clare 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

hah!
 Sean Kelly 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: The great thing about living in Wales is that you are on the spot when conditions are good rather than chance an infrequent weekend up from Sheffield, and that especially applies to winter conditions which can be really fickle. The choice is awesome, from slate (dries quick),Gogarth (scary), Tredmadoc (friendly), Pass bouldering (great for summer evenings), Roadside Crags (Pass, Ogwen,etc) Mountain (great for Trad & Winter), Pen Trwyn (French style). Can Sheffield match that? There is also the local scene based around Llanberis so there is always someone to climb with. It's a no-brainer really.
I lived in Nant Peris for 13 yrs and miss it like hell. I made so many real friends, although I did start going to a few funerals towards the end!
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

On a slight aside, I went to Uni in teh rock wilderness that is Birmingham but and it's a VERY LARGE BUT the mountaineering club organised a trip pretty much every other weekend to go away for a weekend.

I imagine it's the same at any other good uni too. I think you have to go back to the point that you are there to do a degree too.

It's hard work doing a degree, yes you have lots of time off but at the same time you have lots of work to do.


I'll stop now - sorry for being a grown up
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Have you not applied for Leeds Franco?

If you stay in Boddington Hall you'd be closer to Caley than the Wall
 Oli 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:
> On a slight aside, I went to Uni in teh rock wilderness that is Birmingham but and it's a VERY LARGE BUT the mountaineering club organised a trip pretty much every other weekend to go away for a weekend.

That's all very well, but it's a bit shit for evening climbing or trying to get out 3/4 times a week plus training...
In reply to 2pints: you're not going to get good at climbing by doing that.
 AJM 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Surprised you aren't considering (or are completely rejecting) anywhere in the SW - any reason?

Bristol seems to have a pretty decent climbing scene (certainly in the town, not sure about the uni itself), Cardiff has pretty accessible stuff too as far as I can see.

AJM
 Oli 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to 2pints) you're not going to get good at climbing by doing that.

F*ck. I actually agree with something you've said.
In reply to AJM: cromwall- ace. safe soloing there as well- pity there aint a uni. The gorge, bit wank. Stuff on the moors- it's all a bit southern. tis just generally wank. No scene, no inspiration.
 Andy Farnell 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I believe Aberdeen has a nice Uni...

Andy F
 3leggeddog 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
IMHO it boils down to whether you will have a car at uni or not.

Car - Bangor
No car - Sheffield

Sheffield being a large city is much better served to get you to the climbing by public transport or the hitch from hunters bar.

Bangor more remote, smaller population, weaker public transport. Given a free choice and car, I'd choose manc and drive out to both wales and the peak
 Mike Peacock 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 3leggeddog: It really isn't that much hassle being in Bangor without a car. I've managed with public transport for 5 years.
 2pints 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Oli:

I know all too well, after I touched on the dizzy heights og F6b+ indoors with slack grading

 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Snorkers: Yeah, I'm a marine biologist, did my first degree here and came back. Reckon I'll leave academia before I leave North Wales. Just love it.

Sean Kelly made a great comment about the local scene. It's just like living as a kid in a street full of mates. We go out climbing, running, cycling, but instead of being 12 year olds we're all in our 20's, 30's and 40's, I think its very peter panish, people just seem to refuse to accept ageing around here. The location is great but its the mates that have made it such a great place. Almost every night/day I head out with a mate for a run, boulder, cycle.

 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>

>
> It's hard work doing a degree, yes you have lots of time off but at the same time you have lots of work to do.
>

Really? I found mine a piece of piss. Spent 2 and a half years drinking, running, climbing, kayaking, playing football, rugby, gaelic football, played a few international games, earned a few bob playing football, the sports came first, the women second, the drink 3rd, then studies, then settled down and worked hard for 4 months and walked away with a first class degree. And Unis are only getting easier for sure.

You never have a period like you will at Uni, to work your way through it all would be one hell of a waste of time. Don't make it about money, forget that, it's one of lifes great experiences. OK don't waste it and not get a degree, but also enjoy it you'll never have that freedom again.

To do well at Uni, I think you have to be happy there and enjoy the course. Thoe are the two major factors you have to marry during your course choice.
 jbird 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I've applied to Bangor for 2009 too, its more of a fallback option but chances are I'll end up there. Seems to be alot going on besides getting drunk, which I think is a good thing, although you could do that too if you wanted.
 danm 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Having lived in Bangor & Cwm y Glo, and now living in Sheffield, I'd say if you are keen you'll have a great time either way. North Wales has the ultimate in variety, and if you like adventure then you'll get plenty of that when you get stormed off at Gogarth etc in the winter months! On the downside, it can get pretty dark and manky in the winter. Its worth getting into an alternative sport (surfing or paddling) that you can do when its been raining for a month and you cant take it any more! The best season for mountain cragging will also be when you are on holiday, so you'll have to stick around to make the most of it.

Unless you like the slimestone (I don't), Sheffield is fairly crap in the summer. But, as you'll be on holiday... In the spring, winter and autumn, you'll struggle to get any college work done! Obviously the climbing is inferior to the Moors, but it comes a close second Where it really scores, as you probably already know, is that it can go from totally awful weather to amazingly good conditions in a ridiculously short time.
 BenTiffin 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Spent 4 years at Bangor Uni and lived + worked for 4 years in Shef.

For me, both were great but Shef is definitely more cragging type climbing whereas Snowdonia tended to be more mountaineering type climbing but you could happily have days cragging at Llandudno, on the slate, or in the mountains when the weather wasn't great.

You have the option of cragging and mountaineering and occasional winter climbing in North Wales which was why I went there first.

Ben
 Mike Peacock 08 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to 2pints)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
>
> You never have a period like you will at Uni, to work your way through it all would be one hell of a waste of time. Don't make it about money, forget that, it's one of lifes great experiences. OK don't waste it and not get a degree, but also enjoy it you'll never have that freedom again.
>

Agreed. No real responsibility, no real work (especially first year). Enjoy it. Drinks lots, climb lots, make lots of friends.

The prospect of real work is daunting for me now!
Snorkers 08 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:

That sounds like the Bangor I remember, although I spent a lot of the winter playing hockey and drinking, and the summer out climbing as much as possible. The likes of Dei, Angie and Jim Bennell certainly seemed to have the work-life balance sorted though.
 skygod78 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: hi, I've just moved from North Wales i worked at Indy for a few years: Climbing walls,

1) Indy really cheap and you can use it if you're a student, about 3 miles from Bangor.

2) The beacon, about 7 quid near Llanberis.

3) Plas-y-brenin not sure of price and about a million miles from Bangor.

Apparently theres one in bangor but i've never used it and all the students tend to use Indy.
 Banned User 77 08 Dec 2008
In reply to skygod78:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) hi, I've just moved from North Wales i worked at Indy for a few years: Climbing walls,
>
> 1) Indy really cheap and you can use it if you're a student, about 3 miles from Bangor.
>
> 2) The beacon, about 7 quid near Llanberis.
>
> 3) Plas-y-brenin not sure of price and about a million miles from Bangor.
>
> Apparently theres one in bangor but i've never used it and all the
students tend to use Indy.

4) Maes glas wall. On the Fridd site. Small, featured bouldering wall, quiet, nice enough, worth a visit. Cheap.

They are the 4 that I know of.
 Lord_ash2000 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Having just spent 2 years living and working in Bangor I will try and sum it up for you.

Pro's:
Pretty hardcore bouldering wall 10 min's drive away known as "the indy wall" also has some lead climbing too.

Sports centre on a campus which has a small bouldering wall, limited but ok for the odd trip.

Beacon climbing centre 30-40min's away

20 min's away from the Pass maybe less depending how fast you drive, you can also get a bus. Also all the slate near by

40 min's drive from the great orme and loads of hard sport climbing

Fair amount of climbers around and a decent uni club

Hidden quarry actually in Bangor that I worked some routes at. + bouldering

Con's:

If you are not a climber then Bangor is basically shit.

Compared to a city like Sheffield or even an average sized town Bangor has almost nothing in it, limited shops which close early, not even so much as a cinema, only 2-3 night clubs, 2 of which are being knocked down soon and generally a bit of a shit hole.

Also it rains a hell of a lot! you have all the rock you want on your doorstep but so little time to climb on it, particularly if you work full time.

If you have no car the buses are shit, the only climbing places you can get to is the pass or the orme and both take at least an hour.

Conclusion

I wouldn't go back to Bangor personally, it does have some perks but I think I’d rather be in Sheffield. Bangor is great for climbing in but pretty shit for actually living in day to day.
Snorkers 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Lord_ash2000:

>>If you are not a climber [then Bangor is basically shit]....

.....or a kayaker, sailor, walker, mountain biker, or goodness knows what else. My group of friends there were probably 20% climbers and 80% others, all of whom were having a great time. It's what you make of it.....unless you're after high fashion, (s)wanky clubs and what's perceived in the UK as the high life.
 Lord_ash2000 08 Dec 2008
In reply to Snorkers: Well ok I’ll give you that. I think what I meant to say was, if you're not an outdoors person...
 mattsccm 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Bangor. In my day Shef climbers were all pasty V shaped types who couldn't walk up a hill whereas we Bangor types were rough tough mountaineers.
It is very important to pay attention to stereotypes and prejudices especially when they are 25 years out of date.
Thing is Bangor no longer has that hot seat of learning and super mountaineers, The Normal College. By god we were superior.
 Mike Peacock 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Lord_ash2000:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
>
>
> If you have no car the buses are shit, the only climbing places you can get to is the pass or the orme and both take at least an hour.
>

Um, what about the Ogwen Valley? Easy enough on the bus. Or the crags round Betws. Or Ffestiniog on the train. Or Tremadoc on the bus. All easy enough if you can be bothered to read a timetable.
 ksjs 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: i havent read replies but Bangor wins because:
- variety of climbing is amazing
- some unbelievably good routes many of which are steeped in history
- theres world class bouldering, trad and sport within a short distance
- theres single and multi-pitch options too
- Gogarth and Pen Trwyn are good bad weather options
- unless its freak weather or a bit greasy, you can ALWAYS boulder in Parisella's
- slate is the business
- the landscape has a beauty and presence that i dont think can be equalled by the Peak
- climbers there seem to display less (none?) of the Peak-centric attitude ie our spot is best and nothing else counts
- i think the scene / feel of the place is much more down to earth and genuine (it doesnt feel like a commuter suburb and people dont buy / wear north face gear just to go shopping)

no offence to anyone Peak-based. many of my arguments are also valid for the Peak. i guess i just like north Wales much more.
In reply to ksjs: You're saying that North Walians (sp?) aren't Peak centric. Bloody disgraceful. What's the world coming to?

Chris James 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

My two pennorth, as a a Sheffield Uni graduate who prefers climbing in North Wales.

I would definitely go to Sheffield. Bangor may be great at many subjects but Sheffield has (or had when I went there almost 20 years ago!) much the better reputation academically, which will count for a bit when you are applying for jobs.

The beer is better in Sheffield, the night life better. To the person who said that you could go to Chester from Bangor for a night out. Well that just sums things up. Chester's nightlife is so so, and gigs very poor. I know because I am lived in Chester for 18 years and my parents still live there. I woudln't want to travel for over an hour to go out in Chester! In Sheffield one of the UKS biggest cities with all its facilities is on your doorstep and it is only a short trip to both Manchester and Leeds if you fancy travelling.

Also, although I haven't lived in Bangor, North Wales can be a but ... um .. local. Not exactly cosmopolitan anyway. And in case anyone thinks I am insulting the Welsh, well perhaps I am but I was born in Wales so feel entitled!

Sheffield has great access - by foot - to the peak district. The public transport was always regular and comprehensive. And if you get a bike you are on the edge of some of the best cycling in the country.

I reckon Bangor edges it for the climbing but on pretty much every other point Sheffield is better.

Obvioulsy I am biased as I went to Sheffield (although I did an MSc at UMIST so at least I have experience of more than one uni). Having said all that, I am sure you will enjoy wherever you choose to go to.
 LewisDale 09 Dec 2008
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) I believe Aberdeen has a nice Uni...
>
> Andy F

Aye, Thats what i think (my 1st choice ), got good climbing and a good MFL department too. suprised he didnt aply there too.

Why did you only apply to 3 unis Franco?
In reply to LewisDale: it's hasn't even got a proper, independant german department and the climbing is hardly world class- some serious sea cliffs and single pitch half an hour away..... not exactly evening cragging.
 Simon 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:


Bangor - you will hate Sheffield...
 Fidget 09 Dec 2008
In reply to 2pints:

> I agree with your point tho in full, I know from experience, but academic reputation is V IMPORTANT.

Really? I've got a good degree for a decent uni (particulary the department I was in), and it failed to help me find a job - two of my three jobs I've had since Uni have been down to friends/contacts, the third was more luck. I don't think academic reputation had the slightest influence.
 The New NickB 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Bangor = Mountains, the Pass, Gogarth, crap town.

Sheffield = The Peak and plenty of other climbing quite close by, nice City.
 jl100 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I think youd benefit from living in a city rather than just going from one rural backwater to another. N wales is way better for variety of climbing but it rains more and will be very boring when its dark and you cant climb.
 Banned User 77 09 Dec 2008
In reply to JoeL 90:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) N wales is way better for variety of climbing but it rains more and will be very boring when its dark and you cant climb.

This is a bit of a myth. It rains in the mountains but the rain often doesn't break until the mountains so the coastal strips can be dry when the mountains are covered in cloud and rain.



 2pints 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Sarah_Clough:
Was thinking more if Yoof started applying for Grad-Jobs.

At Bham every other week we'd have someone from one of the Milkround companies recruiting/advertising on campus.

don't think you'd get that at smaller unis tho.
 Al Evans 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: Franco, go to Sheff, you know it makes sense!
Al
 Banned User 77 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
.
>
> Also, although I haven't lived in Bangor, North Wales can be a but ... um .. local. Not exactly cosmopolitan anyway.

Another myth. Some places can be like that, but a lot of villages and towns are fine.

I grew up in sheff and did my degree at Bangor. Like both places a lot but there is a lot of rubbish spouted on this thread.
 Mike Peacock 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
>
>
> The beer is better in Sheffield,

What?
 Mike Peacock 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
>
> And if you get a bike you are on the edge of some of the best cycling in the country.
>

Ah but then Bangor has access to the trails at Betws, Penmachno and Coed y Brenin, as well as plenty more less well known ones.
 Owen W-G 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Don't forget that uni term is mostly in the grim months, when N Wales is grim but grit is in season.

Alternatively, you might live your life nearer the grit, but likely never live in N Wales, so it might be a once in a lifetime op to clean up in N Wales.

If in Bangor, you could dash to the grit for the odd w/e. If in Sheffield, you'd prob never climb anywhere but grit.

I'd go taffy if I was you. Grit's overrated.

fxceltic 09 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to 2pints)
> [...]
>
> Why? have you ever visited Bangor?
>
> 4000 other students. No Uni is dull.
>

i think the key was "in comparison with sheffield"

Im sure Bangor is good fun, but it wouldnt be as varied as sheffield over the course of 3 years or so.
fxceltic 09 Dec 2008
In reply to fxceltic: to clarify, there is much much more to uni than climbing. Some peoples responses are coloured by their obviosu love for the region, understandably. I too love North wales and given the choice would now rather live there than sheffield.
But im not 18 any more. If you asked the 18 year old me, I would choose sheffield
 David Hooper 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Hi Franco

Ive read all your thread with interest and if you ARE set on one of the two towns, I would go with Bangor for reasons already mentioned.

BUT could I suggest a third option.

What about Liverpool? Perfectly situated for all your climbing needs, N Wales, Peak, Yorkshire, Lakes all 1-1 1/2 hours drive. Pex Hill a cycle away.
Awesome Walls, John Lennon Airport for Ryan air and Eazyjet for Spain, Rjukan and Geneva direct. London 3 hours down the road, Scotland 5 hours the other way.

Loads of actiove friendly climbing clubs, as well as the uni clubs there are The Merseyside, the Vagabonds, the Anabasis,(all with huts in N Wales) Red Rope and others Im sure.

Not sure what course you are interested in but there is a very good Outdoor Education Degree at John Moores Uni.

You are young and climbing is your life. You can have all the climbing you want in and near to Li9verpool, but it is a wonderful vibrant cultural city and any years spent here would help you broaden and grow as a person.

I split my time between Liverpool and North Wales and am looking forward to living in North wales full time...........but as a youngster, dont have too much tunnel vision about the climbing....in Liverpool you could get a good student life/climbing life balance.

Why dont you visit Sheffield, bangor andf Liverpool for a few days each - remembering that it is winter - link up with a few people for some climbing and sampling of the social scenes and then make your mind up.

I can give you some social intros in North Wales and Liverpool if you are interested.
In reply to David Hooper: cheers, I did consider it, but dismissed it due to the lack of evening climbing and now it's too late to apply there anyway . Thanks a lot for the advice though and I have already spent a long time dossing round sheffield and intend on doing the same in wales this year.
 Doug 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to LewisDale) it's hasn't even got a proper, independant german department and the climbing is hardly world class- some serious sea cliffs and single pitch half an hour away..... not exactly evening cragging.

Have you ever been to Aberdeen ? I spent around 10 years there & there's plenty of evening cragging (it gets darker, later as you go north)

And much better for winter climbing than either Bangor or Sheffield

 Banned User 77 09 Dec 2008
In reply to fxceltic:
> (In reply to fxceltic) to clarify, there is much much more to uni than climbing. Some peoples responses are coloured by their obviosu love for the region, understandably. I too love North wales and given the choice would now rather live there than sheffield.
> But im not 18 any more. If you asked the 18 year old me, I would choose sheffield

I've probably been out in both cities more times than almost everyone else on this thread. I quite like both cities. Sheffield, while better now, is still hardly a great city for night life. I think Leeds, Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle, Glasgow etc are far better for a night out with a greater range of scenes from good old pubs to nice bars to great clubs.

Bangor has great pubs, a few clubs. But you're at Uni. When me and my mates got back together at xmas we'd chat about uni life and the stories were identical, be it Liverpool, Bangor, London, we all came back with silly stories, drunken nights, pulling women, the usual stuff. It's all the same in my experience.

OK Bangor used to shut up early in the evening but otherwise the night life was OK.

Also re nothing to do in north wales in winter, as said the coastal strip does get good weather. Tremadog, bouldering, the slate, etc are all accessible and provide good options through the year.

I think they are quite similar in many ways. Sheffield is a big village. I doubt either will leave Franco dissapointed.

And the earlier comment about N Wales not being cosmopolitan, well some areas aren't but you could say the same about many of the rougher areas of sheffield. Give me MaesG over The Manor any day.

Chris James 10 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to Chris James)
> [...]
> .
> [...]
>
> Another myth. Some places can be like that, but a lot of villages and towns are fine.
>
It's not a myth Ian. That is my experience, and that of plenty of my firends who have expressed the same sentiments to me.I have spent large chunks of my life in North Wales and love the area for the scenery and the mountain 'feel' but Welsh towns are by and large far more introspective than English towns in my experience.

I put it down to the lack of any cities in Wales other than in the far south.
Chris James 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:
> (In reply to Chris James)
> [...]
>
> Ah but then Bangor has access to the trails at Betws, Penmachno and Coed y Brenin, as well as plenty more less well known ones.

Fair enough. I was exhibiting my road biking bias!
 Matt Maynard 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Hey Franco,
I met you once in Pete's Eats back in May. Hope you are still as pscyhed as the excitement we all shared that day.

I am now a post grad student in Bangor, although when I met you I was living in Sheff, so have experienced the two scenes.

If I was you, with the understanding that you are keen for adventure and an all round climbing experience, I would head for N Wales. The wall scene at the Maes Glas bouldering wall is excellent. The bouldeing wall is quality for a variety of climbing training. Free Monday and Fridays for BUMS members.
Also you have to Indifatigable wall which is only for BUMS students. I have only had a look, but once again, it looks fantastic.
The Beacon is a bit of a mission on a school night, but is the place to go for routes.
The Gywlt Y Gylnn is avery sociable climbing evening scene, wed, thurs, fri for 'pizza and a pint,' and having had my first proper night out in Bangor last weekend, being a boring post grad, I can say it was pretty good and rivals the venues in Sheff that I visisted in my limited time, and with limited knowledge.
Matt
 Mike Peacock 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James:
> (In reply to IainRUK)
> [...]
>
>
> I put it down to the lack of any cities in Wales other than in the far south.

Bangor's a city ;D
Chris James 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri:

Well I didn't know that. I knew St David's was an extremely small city but not aware that was true of Bangor.

Mind you, Bangor has only 10 times the population of my village!

Chris James 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James:

Mind you, St David's actually has fewer people living in it than my village ...
 Mike Peacock 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James: Yep, it even has a Cathedral. I suppose its city status comes from that and the fact that it is a sizeable place compared with the surrounding towns and villages.
 Al Evans 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Touching Centauri: Franco is banned? I tried to e-mail him and was turned down
 Mike Peacock 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Al Evans: Oh right. I didn't see that happen. Guess it might have been last night at some stage.
 Banned User 77 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris James: I just haven't found that. Apart from on a football pitch and a few rough bars in Caernarfon I;'ve found it fine. You seem to be comparing a city centre with some rough village. Get out into the mining areas around sheffield, then come back with a comparison.

I've played sports throughout the both areas and would say that North Wales is a LOT friendlier.

Llanberis and the other villages are fairly good now. There's now a few generations of people who moved there in the 60's/70's/80's and I definately feel far more at home here compared to sheffield. And I'm not refferring to the mountains or scenery. I'm talking about the villages and people.
 dunc56 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson: I took my wife on Honeymoon to Bangor.
 dunc56 10 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to Chris James) I just haven't found that. Apart from on a football pitch and a few rough bars in Caernarfon I;'ve found it fine. You seem to be comparing a city centre with some rough village. Get out into the mining areas around sheffield, then come back with a comparison.
>
> I've played sports throughout the both areas and would say that North Wales is a LOT friendlier.
>
> Llanberis and the other villages are fairly good now. There's now a few generations of people who moved there in the 60's/70's/80's and I definately feel far more at home here compared to sheffield. And I'm not refferring to the mountains or scenery. I'm talking about the villages and people.

North Wales is not F£$%$% friendlier ! They are a bunch of sheep worriers.

Damn !

 skygod78 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Sarah_Clough: hi ya, i tend to agree i think people put too much emphasis on academic qualifications especially degrees, i did mine back to front so i was already doing the job the qualification would have allowed me to do and the degree was a total crock of sh*t, and i did'nt really learn anything. If this was me in this case i would personally go for the one that would offer me a better experience outside of the academic.

vic
 nbonnett 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:

i've lived in the peak and north wales, given the chance that you have i'd plum for north wales. you've got a huge variety of rock types, loads of bouldering, good weather .superb beers ,


The only down side are the walls, the beacon is an uninspiring place ( the leak in the bouldering room is still there after 5 years, the holds are never changed on the bouldering wall .)

Plas-y-brenin warm and clean but crap problem setting. but dont let that put you off, the area has more going for it than sheffield, unless you like 20ft grit problems or short polished sport routes.
 Banned User 77 11 Dec 2008
In reply to nbonnett:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
>
>
> The only down side are the walls, the beacon is an uninspiring place ( the leak in the bouldering room is still there after 5 years, the holds are never changed on the bouldering wall .)
>
>

I think the leak has been solved, in a fashion, there's soms strange contraption on the roof that looks like it's to catch drips. Also with the winter bouldering aggregate system a few new bouldering routes get put up each week. Seems to be a steady supply of new routes.
 nbonnett 11 Dec 2008
In reply to IainRUK:

hmmmmmmm
 Dave Warburton 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Al Evans: I'll pass on any emails to Franco, if you want Al.
Haven't spoke to him for a couple of days, so i don't know what the banning was about. Over exuberance i imagine...

Cheers.
 Al Evans 11 Dec 2008
In reply to nbonnett: Nige, you traitor!

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