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ARTICLE: Scottish Winter Climbing & The Tyranny of Success

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 Jack Geldard 10 Dec 2008
"Make the most of the winter but remember to live long enough to see summer."

Patrick Roman gives us the low down on his Scottish winter adventures, describing his fears and his epics, mostly solo, in the Scottish hills.

"Beware of accidentally succeeding on a route above your ability. Success tends to breed ambition. The next time, a route of similar difficulty and danger may deliver the hard lesson that a single success at a high level may represent luck and not skill."


Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1510
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Enjoyed that, thanks.
 220bpm 10 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Good stuff, thanks
 george mc 10 Dec 2008
Hi Patrick
Great article, well written

Good to hear that people actually read and listen to the advice I've written in articles past. He! Nice one.

Cheers fur noo
George
 Wee Davie 11 Dec 2008
In reply to Patrick Roman:

Nicely written article- but I'm not sure many folk would survive such an 'apprenticeship' to write about it!
Maybe I'm wrong in my interpretation of it but it doesn't seem like this collection of near death solo'ing experiences have taught you much prudence?!
Good stories and well told, but I'm not sure the two themes of the article gel all that well...
Hope you're not offended.



 jas wood 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: very good
 centurion05 14 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I like the quote by Mark Twight about succeeding on a certain route that was above your ability. He's a pretty cool guy with a great view on his climbing.

Nice read,

Centurion05
 John Foster 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I thought this article was excellent - inspiring, motivating and well written.

Many thanks,

John.
 Patrick Roman 16 Dec 2008
In reply to George Mc:

Hi George!

Yes, it was indeed your wise words which hit home all those years ago

Currently in Nepal after a long and arduous journey from West Bengal via strikes, washed-away bridges and police checkpoints. Hope you're enjoying the winter and inspiring many others.

All the best,

Patrick
 Patrick Roman 17 Dec 2008
In reply to Wee Davie:

On the contrary, the article exclaims prudence throughout but prudence gained through knowledge rather than blinkered caution. Every route I have approached since my North Gully fall has been planned meticulously and with logic. I have no interest in "near-death" experiences but simply managing high-stress situations in a calm and rational manner, although I understand that some people may interpret these situations as extreme.

Soloists (and I refer only to those who solo regularly) often receive a bad press, mostly and ashamedly so from other climbers, as being foolhardy and reckless. The reality is quite the opposite and I personally take a quiet pride in having had many years of rich experiences and survived them without so much as a scratch, a pattern I intend sticking to.

Over the last few winters there have been a number of fatal and very serious accidents in the Scottish mountains, some of which could maybe have been avoided if those involved hadn't leapfrogged grades or had a broader base of experience from which to assess and handle variable conditions correctly. I am not criticising and I am not playing guardian, I am simply offering a few tales from my past and some advice which has stood me in good stead and continues to do so.

Patrick

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