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BMC negotiate access to Craig y Forwyn, ending a 20-year ban
Read more: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2880
Read more: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2880
In reply to Team BMC: Nice one Guido!!!!
In reply to Team BMC: Well done the BMC! Park sensibly chaps, we don't want to lose this one again.
T.
T.
In reply to Team BMC:
Excellant news. Well done to all concerned.
Having never been there, can someone tell me what sort of grade range there is there. And I'm guessing it's not been in a guidebook for a few years.
Excellant news. Well done to all concerned.
Having never been there, can someone tell me what sort of grade range there is there. And I'm guessing it's not been in a guidebook for a few years.
In reply to Team BMC: That amazing !! The BMC are to be applauded for their brilliant access work of late . What a crag , Mojo , Freedom , Quickstep , Greatwall , Moonwind all as good as they come . Walked in there a while back and was very overgrown but im sure it will regain its former glory .
Now on UKC news page: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45502
In reply to Chris the Tall:
Unsurprisingly its not comprehensive but gives you an idea.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1387
A Chee Tor type crag re spread of grades. Rock quality on Great Wall is perfect IIRC.
Unsurprisingly its not comprehensive but gives you an idea.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1387
A Chee Tor type crag re spread of grades. Rock quality on Great Wall is perfect IIRC.
In reply to Team BMC: marvelous! I climbed there once, and I've always wanted to return.
Are there any birdy nesting issues that have developed whilst it's been quiet?
Are there any birdy nesting issues that have developed whilst it's been quiet?
In reply to Team BMC:
Bloody good effort Guy! Have to confess I never thought I'd see the day. What have the BMC ever done for us? There's your answer! That and another hundred access successes,,,,,,,,,
jh
Bloody good effort Guy! Have to confess I never thought I'd see the day. What have the BMC ever done for us? There's your answer! That and another hundred access successes,,,,,,,,,
jh
In reply to Team BMC:
Fantastic news - congratulations to all involved in this.
Did you also manage to negotiate approval for a crag clean up?
Also, might it be prudent to urge people to avoid any inadvertent shouting or swearing at this crag? Being the "sheltered woodland sun trap" that it is, also means that sound carries, and the landowner lives just beneath the crag.
Again, very well done!
Neil
Fantastic news - congratulations to all involved in this.
Did you also manage to negotiate approval for a crag clean up?
Also, might it be prudent to urge people to avoid any inadvertent shouting or swearing at this crag? Being the "sheltered woodland sun trap" that it is, also means that sound carries, and the landowner lives just beneath the crag.
Again, very well done!
Neil
In reply to Coel Hellier: Likwise I went there once, always intended going back & then the ban came
Can't remeber what routes we did, but all were good and around VS/HVS
Can't remeber what routes we did, but all were good and around VS/HVS
In reply to Team BMC:
Excellent news. Well Done! The BMC.
Let's hope we manage not to lose it again. It would be worth the BMC writing an article for UKC on the history of the Craig y Forwyn situation to explain to people how our access to crags is not guaranteed and can easily be lost.
Well Done again,
Hugh
Excellent news. Well Done! The BMC.
Let's hope we manage not to lose it again. It would be worth the BMC writing an article for UKC on the history of the Craig y Forwyn situation to explain to people how our access to crags is not guaranteed and can easily be lost.
Well Done again,
Hugh
In reply to Team BMC:
wOOOO Hoooo!
Well done you guys, and thank you.
I went twice, but climbed little because it rained.
I will return!
J
wOOOO Hoooo!
Well done you guys, and thank you.
I went twice, but climbed little because it rained.
I will return!
J
In reply to Team BMC:
Brilliant news.
I am worried that there might be a bit of a stampede - the arrival of hundreds of climbers and the removal of tonnes of ivy is probably not a great way to start the new relationship!
Any chance of a notice board near the parking and or/crag explaining:
Park properly
Don't shit in the woods
Keep the noise down
Be polite
Clean up after yourself
Chris
Brilliant news.
I am worried that there might be a bit of a stampede - the arrival of hundreds of climbers and the removal of tonnes of ivy is probably not a great way to start the new relationship!
Any chance of a notice board near the parking and or/crag explaining:
Park properly
Don't shit in the woods
Keep the noise down
Be polite
Clean up after yourself
Chris
In reply to toad: Re Birds.
I have approached the owner on several occassion in the last 5 years and he has allowed me to climb but not when the peregrine's have been nesting (the usual March - August 'Bird Ban') . Perhaps the birds have gone, perhaps the owner has changed. I do know there to be two nesting pairs of Peregrine's in the landfill just behind the crag maybe they moved?
I'd have thought that Guy has all this covered though to be honest. This was THE climbing ban in my mind. So aged and problematic that the crag has been left out of climbing guides in recent years. WELL DONE.
I have approached the owner on several occassion in the last 5 years and he has allowed me to climb but not when the peregrine's have been nesting (the usual March - August 'Bird Ban') . Perhaps the birds have gone, perhaps the owner has changed. I do know there to be two nesting pairs of Peregrine's in the landfill just behind the crag maybe they moved?
I'd have thought that Guy has all this covered though to be honest. This was THE climbing ban in my mind. So aged and problematic that the crag has been left out of climbing guides in recent years. WELL DONE.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Good call Chris.
We deserved the ban last time...lets not mess it up again
Good call Chris.
We deserved the ban last time...lets not mess it up again
In reply to Chris Craggs: Well said, Chris!
Good idea with the signs - lets hope they wouldn't be pulled down like the previous ones were many years ago!
pmc
Good idea with the signs - lets hope they wouldn't be pulled down like the previous ones were many years ago!
pmc
In reply to Team BMC:
That is really excellent. I thought Forwyn was destined to become a legend from the past. I even have a copy of the Andy Pollitt guide that hasn't been read for many a year...
That is really excellent. I thought Forwyn was destined to become a legend from the past. I even have a copy of the Andy Pollitt guide that hasn't been read for many a year...
In reply to Team BMC: Nice one, well done. Bit of ivy to clear?
In reply to Team BMC:
Cheers, now I feel old....is it really over 20 years since I climbed there (once).
Great effort BMC
Cheers, now I feel old....is it really over 20 years since I climbed there (once).
Great effort BMC
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
Might replace some of the threads though
> (In reply to BMC Office)
>
> That great, nice one to all involved!
>
> An ascent of Great Wall anyone?
>
> That great, nice one to all involved!
>
> An ascent of Great Wall anyone?
Might replace some of the threads though
In reply to Team BMC:
Awesome effort - well done. So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
And thanks to the farmer as well - it must have taken a bit of an effort on his part after all these years.
Now if someone can just deal with that woman at Vixen Tor.....
jcm
Awesome effort - well done. So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
And thanks to the farmer as well - it must have taken a bit of an effort on his part after all these years.
Now if someone can just deal with that woman at Vixen Tor.....
jcm
In reply to Team BMC: Brilliant news - well done.
Does that mean copies of the ancient Andy Pollitt North Wales Limestone guide (bang up to date for Craig y Forwen!) will suddenly become as valuable as Extreme Rock??
Let's take care not to blow it again this time!
Cheers
Andy
Does that mean copies of the ancient Andy Pollitt North Wales Limestone guide (bang up to date for Craig y Forwen!) will suddenly become as valuable as Extreme Rock??
Let's take care not to blow it again this time!
Cheers
Andy
In reply to Team BMC: Briliant, but it's about bloody time!
In reply to Al Evans: Better get your Mojo working Al!
In reply to Team BMC:
Congratulations on this. Really significant crag to lose for so long. Wonder how dirty it is?
Congratulations on this. Really significant crag to lose for so long. Wonder how dirty it is?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: you never know, if there are any dodgy old bolts there (like the one at the top of great wall), the north wales bolt fund may consider replacing them with brand new ones.
In reply to Team BMC: Fantastic, can't wait to get back there.
In reply to Team BMC:
Access was originally lost due to parking issues, so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.
Fingers X'd hope not.
Congrats Guy & team - now then - Eagle Tor & that Barbed wire...
Si
Access was originally lost due to parking issues, so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.
Fingers X'd hope not.
Congrats Guy & team - now then - Eagle Tor & that Barbed wire...
Si
In reply to woolsack: jesus if we all took that attitude we would still be needing to sneak up on Kinder and Bleaklow keeping a look out for gamekeepers now! And of course not climbing on High Neb!
In reply to Simon:
Thought that sanitation (lack of) and general obnoxious behaviour towards the owner also contributed.
ALC
> Access was originally lost due to parking issues
Thought that sanitation (lack of) and general obnoxious behaviour towards the owner also contributed.
ALC
In reply to Team BMC:
This is fantastic news, should lead to a flurry of Extreme Rock complete-ists! Lets hope everyone who goes treats the place, the owners and the caravan park users with the respect they deserve.
I guess there is now no excuse for anyone not to pay their subs to the BMC next year.
This is fantastic news, should lead to a flurry of Extreme Rock complete-ists! Lets hope everyone who goes treats the place, the owners and the caravan park users with the respect they deserve.
I guess there is now no excuse for anyone not to pay their subs to the BMC next year.
In reply to Team BMC: Superb effort
In reply to Team BMC:
Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.
As others have said, the single biggest issue is the parking.
The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.
It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.
Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.
DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.
Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.
Enjoy!
Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.
As others have said, the single biggest issue is the parking.
The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.
It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.
Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.
DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.
Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.
Enjoy!
Excellent news lets start getting some shiny bolts in it.
In reply to d8vehinton: Its A trad crag.
In reply to Team BMC:
Nice one guys. I hope everyone out there supports the BMC with an annual membership as i do. It helps them with the work the do and with this we can see the benefits.
In a recent BMC magazine (published quarterly) there was an article re getting more people to support the BMC by getting a membership. If you use the outdoors and your not already a member think about joining. It's only £30 or so a year.
Disclaimer: I have no vested interest in the BMC, just appreciate the work they do.
Nice one guys. I hope everyone out there supports the BMC with an annual membership as i do. It helps them with the work the do and with this we can see the benefits.
In a recent BMC magazine (published quarterly) there was an article re getting more people to support the BMC by getting a membership. If you use the outdoors and your not already a member think about joining. It's only £30 or so a year.
Disclaimer: I have no vested interest in the BMC, just appreciate the work they do.
In reply to Team BMC: That's fantastic - good job guys.
I climbed there, back in the day and I visited it, just for a walk, a few years back. I was amazed at how over grown it had become. Could hardly find the routes. It will take some clearing up but judging by the enthusiasm shown above that shouldn't be a problem...
Nice christmas present for the North Wales climbing community
I climbed there, back in the day and I visited it, just for a walk, a few years back. I was amazed at how over grown it had become. Could hardly find the routes. It will take some clearing up but judging by the enthusiasm shown above that shouldn't be a problem...
Nice christmas present for the North Wales climbing community
In reply to martin k:
Come on Martin, a man in your position shouldn't start stirring up JCM. we all know he is not a man to be messed with.
Well done to everyone at the BMC involved with Craig Y Forwyn. Never climbed there but would love to ASAP.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) you never know, if there are any dodgy old bolts there (like the one at the top of great wall), the north wales bolt fund may consider replacing them with brand new ones.
Come on Martin, a man in your position shouldn't start stirring up JCM. we all know he is not a man to be messed with.
Well done to everyone at the BMC involved with Craig Y Forwyn. Never climbed there but would love to ASAP.
In reply to mick o the north:
So was <insert list of trad crags that have been bolted>
> Its A trad crag.
So was <insert list of trad crags that have been bolted>
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
Maybe the BMC can multi-task. Collectively of course, not as individuals.
>So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
Maybe the BMC can multi-task. Collectively of course, not as individuals.
In reply to Team BMC:
Since parking seems to be a potential issue, are there any plans to put up a couple of discrete BMC noticeboards at the crag ? not everyone will read the access information from here.
Since parking seems to be a potential issue, are there any plans to put up a couple of discrete BMC noticeboards at the crag ? not everyone will read the access information from here.
In reply to nbonnett: Hope yer joking Bonnet !!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Hi John,
The BMC do not encourage grid bolting. They provide bolts for bolt replacement not establishing new routes. They also provide advice how to replace old bolts.
Grid bolting is a problem I would agree. But that is down to individuals. You'd be aghast if you witnessed some of the stuff that has happened in Yorkshire and at Cheddar. I was doing a classic at a Yorkshire venue recently and it was spoiled by having two squeeze jobs either side of it... I could touch the neighbouring bolts on the route I was on.
You also do the BMC a disservice by saying that their main focus is bolting.
They do absolutely tons of good work for us on a daily basis. Securing access for Craig y Forwyn is just the tip of the iceberg.
I hope you are a member, I am, and proud of it.
Mick
> (In reply to BMC Office)
>
> Awesome effort - well done. So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
>
> Awesome effort - well done. So much better than encouraging grid-bolting which seemed to be the BMC's main focus lately.
Hi John,
The BMC do not encourage grid bolting. They provide bolts for bolt replacement not establishing new routes. They also provide advice how to replace old bolts.
Grid bolting is a problem I would agree. But that is down to individuals. You'd be aghast if you witnessed some of the stuff that has happened in Yorkshire and at Cheddar. I was doing a classic at a Yorkshire venue recently and it was spoiled by having two squeeze jobs either side of it... I could touch the neighbouring bolts on the route I was on.
You also do the BMC a disservice by saying that their main focus is bolting.
They do absolutely tons of good work for us on a daily basis. Securing access for Craig y Forwyn is just the tip of the iceberg.
I hope you are a member, I am, and proud of it.
Mick
In reply to Team BMC:
Awesome, great job!
Awesome, great job!
In reply to mick o the north:
I seem to recall reading that Zippy added a few sport routes some years ago. Further drilling is I guess out on noise grounds at least.
I seem to recall reading that Zippy added a few sport routes some years ago. Further drilling is I guess out on noise grounds at least.
In reply to Team BMC: Old enough to remember this crag fondly!
Well done to all involved. Let's hope 'we' have learned from our mistakes!
Well done to all involved. Let's hope 'we' have learned from our mistakes!
In reply to Team BMC: This is great news! Well done to all involved!
I just hope you are ALL BMC members .... support them with your membership !!!
In reply to Simon Lee: If he did he kept it very quiet - don't even start this.
This is going to be a can of worms unless somebody -BMC? - sorts it now.
It's trad - end of.
This is going to be a can of worms unless somebody -BMC? - sorts it now.
It's trad - end of.
In reply to baron: Agree! Don't need bolts there, despite being plenty of openings. Not worth the potential problems, as plenty of stuff nearby. Top crag, great routes, great gear - thanks to the present landowner, please? Great Wall, Mojo etc - s'wat it's all about.
In reply to baron:
I am not advocating any bolting at Forwen. But don't we generally work on consensus arrived at by local climbers, in this case the BMC North Wales Area meetings, rather than by internet forum.
Never been to Forwen but as my brother lives 40 minutes away, and he climbed there before the ban, I suspect the odd trip next year might be in consideration.
> It's trad - end of.
I am not advocating any bolting at Forwen. But don't we generally work on consensus arrived at by local climbers, in this case the BMC North Wales Area meetings, rather than by internet forum.
Never been to Forwen but as my brother lives 40 minutes away, and he climbed there before the ban, I suspect the odd trip next year might be in consideration.
In reply to baron:
Your autocratic point might seem passionate to some - however I seem to recall in the early 90's the Peak had this kind of argument (debate?) all the time and now trad sits happily along side sport at places like Harpur Hill.
The owner might not have any issues about drilling - but the local consensus might be to keep it bolt free.
I - like Gra, am not saying bolt the place up - maybe just have an open mind & discuss the pro's and con's at the local area meeting - thats what's keeps meetings healthy - good debate.
Si
> (In reply to Simon Lee) If he did he kept it very quiet - don't even start this.
> This is going to be a can of worms unless somebody -BMC? - sorts it now.
> It's trad - end of.
> This is going to be a can of worms unless somebody -BMC? - sorts it now.
> It's trad - end of.
Your autocratic point might seem passionate to some - however I seem to recall in the early 90's the Peak had this kind of argument (debate?) all the time and now trad sits happily along side sport at places like Harpur Hill.
The owner might not have any issues about drilling - but the local consensus might be to keep it bolt free.
I - like Gra, am not saying bolt the place up - maybe just have an open mind & discuss the pro's and con's at the local area meeting - thats what's keeps meetings healthy - good debate.
Si
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: OK, but this type of situation is a VERY isolated example. Yes, people make mistakes, but it's not terrorism. What the hell IS grid bolting anyway? Yes, to prejudice the 'integrity' of a trad route, by injudisciously bolting a relatively worthless bit of adjacent open space is not a way to go. BUT, I don't see any problem with maximising the potential of any crag, in our little country, by properly mixing new sport with trad. I couldn't envisage a major argument occurring, should a great new E10, 7C trad line be forced at, say, Raven Tor (Peak), or Revelations done boltless, despite it being a recognised 'sport' venue (shades of Les Menestrel's) Quite the reverse, I for one would stand up and voice admiration and respect, saying "way to go", not slag off. On a related note, I'm really glad the Yanks have recently come over and shaken few pre-conceived notions re the state of British climbing. To continue, the JCM's of this forum are never going to reconsider their stance, re the sanctity of trad v sport climbing, but I'd have a lot more time for them, if I saw significant numbers of serious punters actually on the trad stuff in my own area for starters, doing them in quantity and thus keeping the ever advancing weeds on a sadly significant number of crags at bay. I don't know what's right or wrong here, after all, I think soccer goalposts should be wider apart to allow for more goal scoring opportunities! I'm as bored with entrenched soccer rules as I am with the great trad v sport debate. Everybody, go climb and just be thankful to be affluent enough to have the opportunity to enjoy leisure time!
In reply to belperpete:
Exactly no debate , not even a debate about a debate .
> (In reply to baron) Agree! Don't need bolts there, despite being plenty of openings. Not worth the potential problems, as plenty of stuff nearby. Top crag, great routes, great gear - thanks to the present landowner, please? Great Wall, Mojo etc - s'wat it's all about.
Exactly no debate , not even a debate about a debate .
In reply to Simon: Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread by turning it into a bolting debate.
Let's celebrate a long awaited day.
pmc
Let's celebrate a long awaited day.
pmc
In reply to baron:
I don't think you have - its all part of healthy debate, and I agree lets celebrate an Access sucess, there are still problems out there that overshadow what good the BMC actually does in this respect.
Hope all goes well for the crag & the volunteers who help take care of it.
cheers
Si
> (In reply to Simon) Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread by turning it into a bolting debate.
> Let's celebrate a long awaited day.
>
> pmc
> Let's celebrate a long awaited day.
>
> pmc
I don't think you have - its all part of healthy debate, and I agree lets celebrate an Access sucess, there are still problems out there that overshadow what good the BMC actually does in this respect.
Hope all goes well for the crag & the volunteers who help take care of it.
cheers
Si
In reply to jobertalot:
Well done Jo and BMC, I assume you were a major player in this. Can't wait to get some routes done!
Speak to you soon,
toby
Well done Jo and BMC, I assume you were a major player in this. Can't wait to get some routes done!
Speak to you soon,
toby
In reply to Team BMC: Fantastic.Thank you BMC. I never thought this would happen and would never get the chance to climb there again. What state are the old threads in?!
In reply to Al Evans:
Sorry, is this meant to reply to my lighthearted comment?
> (In reply to woolsack) jesus if we all took that attitude we would still be needing to sneak up on Kinder and Bleaklow keeping a look out for gamekeepers now! And of course not climbing on High Neb!
Sorry, is this meant to reply to my lighthearted comment?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Hear hear!
As for Mrs Alford, there has been some progress. I met up with the Access lady from Devon County Council a few weeks back and they are in the process of gathering evidence of public access over the last 50 years, especially details of whether there were any signs saying Private, Keep Out and the like.
She will compile a report which is due to be presented to the Council in March and they will decide whether to serve the owners with a Public Access Order under the CRoW legislation.
Unfortunately this, if successful, will only re-open the footpath past the Tor, not access to the rocks themselves, and in any case even if an Order is granted Mrs A will almost certainly appeal.
Over to you BMC, and what is the Dartmoor National Park Authority doing? Not a lot.
> (In reply to BMC Office)
>
> Awesome effort - well done. S
> Now if someone can just deal with that woman at Vixen Tor.....
>
>
> Awesome effort - well done. S
> Now if someone can just deal with that woman at Vixen Tor.....
>
Hear hear!
As for Mrs Alford, there has been some progress. I met up with the Access lady from Devon County Council a few weeks back and they are in the process of gathering evidence of public access over the last 50 years, especially details of whether there were any signs saying Private, Keep Out and the like.
She will compile a report which is due to be presented to the Council in March and they will decide whether to serve the owners with a Public Access Order under the CRoW legislation.
Unfortunately this, if successful, will only re-open the footpath past the Tor, not access to the rocks themselves, and in any case even if an Order is granted Mrs A will almost certainly appeal.
Over to you BMC, and what is the Dartmoor National Park Authority doing? Not a lot.
In reply to Team BMC:
Been waiting for this since I started climbing in the very late 80's. Bring on Mojo and Great Wall!
Well done BMC and please don't f*^% it up everyone before I get a chance to visit next summer...
Been waiting for this since I started climbing in the very late 80's. Bring on Mojo and Great Wall!
Well done BMC and please don't f*^% it up everyone before I get a chance to visit next summer...
In reply to Iain Peters:
We have to try & make small steps though thats the main thing ey?
Si
> Unfortunately this, if successful, will only re-open the footpath past the Tor, not access to the rocks themselves, and in any case even if an Order is granted Mrs A will almost certainly appeal.
We have to try & make small steps though thats the main thing ey?
Si
In reply to woolsack:
A tongue in cheek reply to a light hearted comment perhaps!
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> Sorry, is this meant to reply to my lighthearted comment?
> [...]
>
> Sorry, is this meant to reply to my lighthearted comment?
A tongue in cheek reply to a light hearted comment perhaps!
In reply to Al Evans: cheers!
In reply to Team BMC:
Great work.
When i moved to Chester earlier in the year, some of the "old timers" i spoke to about reminisced about Craig Y Forwen; now i'll have a chance to see what they were on about!
Any idea what the seepage situation will be like in the near future? Or will it have to wait for a spring heat wave?
Great work.
When i moved to Chester earlier in the year, some of the "old timers" i spoke to about reminisced about Craig Y Forwen; now i'll have a chance to see what they were on about!
Any idea what the seepage situation will be like in the near future? Or will it have to wait for a spring heat wave?
In reply to Team BMC:
Hi folks, good see such a positive response on here, looks like there will be plenty of crag police! My understanding is that local climbers have done some vegetation management at the crag all ready but I'll take a look this weekend.
I've started a page on the wiki for you to comment on routes etc and I'm making enquiries about getting some route descriptions on line, might be a while that one though.
www.northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com
Mike Raine
Chair BMC Cymru/Wales
Hi folks, good see such a positive response on here, looks like there will be plenty of crag police! My understanding is that local climbers have done some vegetation management at the crag all ready but I'll take a look this weekend.
I've started a page on the wiki for you to comment on routes etc and I'm making enquiries about getting some route descriptions on line, might be a while that one though.
www.northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com
Mike Raine
Chair BMC Cymru/Wales
Nice to see people are enthusiastic about climbing at Forwyn again. Top crag.
In reply to some of the enquiries I have received on how much of the crag is available for climbing - basically all of it.
We have viewed a map illustrating the local ownership boundaries which indicates Mr. Jones owns the whole of the main crag and a strip of land below it (CCW's SSSI ownership boundary map corroborates this) and we have proceeded with the access agreement on this basis.
The owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park owns a portion of the woodland below the main crag and is not supportive of climbing. He has recently asked climbers to leave, if this happens to you please remain courteous and explain that climbing access has been agreed between the BMC and the owner of the cliff face. BMC will be contacting the owner of the caravan park in the next few days.
One more thing – apparently sound carries a long way in this valley, so I might be a good idea to keep your voices down.
Cheers
Guy
In reply to some of the enquiries I have received on how much of the crag is available for climbing - basically all of it.
We have viewed a map illustrating the local ownership boundaries which indicates Mr. Jones owns the whole of the main crag and a strip of land below it (CCW's SSSI ownership boundary map corroborates this) and we have proceeded with the access agreement on this basis.
The owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park owns a portion of the woodland below the main crag and is not supportive of climbing. He has recently asked climbers to leave, if this happens to you please remain courteous and explain that climbing access has been agreed between the BMC and the owner of the cliff face. BMC will be contacting the owner of the caravan park in the next few days.
One more thing – apparently sound carries a long way in this valley, so I might be a good idea to keep your voices down.
Cheers
Guy
In reply to Guy Keating, BMC:
Great. I've officially added Sangfroid and Sangfroid Direct to my to do list for 2009.
Great. I've officially added Sangfroid and Sangfroid Direct to my to do list for 2009.
In reply to Team BMC:
Great news! Well done to the BMC and many thanks for your patient negotiating.
Time to dust off the old guidebook...
Great news! Well done to the BMC and many thanks for your patient negotiating.
Time to dust off the old guidebook...
In reply to Mike Raine: Bit more info on guidebook situation here: http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=222
In reply to Team BMC: Hi All
I have just heard that the CC will be scanning in the old North Wales Limestone guide last published in 1987, on there website aparently for this weekend! As an interim measure I have cheekily uploaded the pages from the guide to my blog. I will remove these images and replace with a link when the CC get the info up on their site.
All the best, and finger crossed I don't get sued!
http://lifeinthevertical.blogspot.com/2008/12/cc-guide-to-craig-y-forwen.ht...
I have just heard that the CC will be scanning in the old North Wales Limestone guide last published in 1987, on there website aparently for this weekend! As an interim measure I have cheekily uploaded the pages from the guide to my blog. I will remove these images and replace with a link when the CC get the info up on their site.
All the best, and finger crossed I don't get sued!
http://lifeinthevertical.blogspot.com/2008/12/cc-guide-to-craig-y-forwen.ht...
In reply to Removed User:
Shooters Nab may be nearer for me but I know which I'd rather have open given a choice!
> (In reply to BMC Office) Well Done!
>
> Now as for Shooter's Nab...
>
> Now as for Shooter's Nab...
Shooters Nab may be nearer for me but I know which I'd rather have open given a choice!
I can confirm that we should have a scanned copy of the 1987 guide available for download on our website over the weekend. Usual disclaimers, remember the guide is over 20 years old and the crag has hardly been climbed on in that time.
David Lanceley
CC Honorary Treasurer
David Lanceley
CC Honorary Treasurer
In reply to Team BMC: Mike Raine asked me to repost the link to the wiki as he got the address wrong.
If you get out there climbing and have any info on loose rock, in-situ gear then please update the info on the wiki.
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Routes
If you get out there climbing and have any info on loose rock, in-situ gear then please update the info on the wiki.
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Routes
In reply to Team BMC: Thank you and very well done to all involved, climbed a lot there in the past and enjoyed it and maybe now in the future, but most of all to all the youths enjoy and look after it have fun its a trad cool venue
In reply to Team BMC:
Great news.
Just wondering, went there about ten years ago, as we mistakenly believed it to be open again.
There was an incredible amount of vegetation.
It must be a lot worse now.
Is there a plan for cleaning the routes up?
Great news.
Just wondering, went there about ten years ago, as we mistakenly believed it to be open again.
There was an incredible amount of vegetation.
It must be a lot worse now.
Is there a plan for cleaning the routes up?
In reply to Team BMC:
Quite a bit of vegetation management already taken place. Local climbers in action, without the the need for a big clean up event. Brilliant work folks well done.
If you do want to take place in some crag management watch out for our next Bwlch y Moch work weekend 10/11th Jan, details will soon be on the BMC forum.
Cheers
Mike
Quite a bit of vegetation management already taken place. Local climbers in action, without the the need for a big clean up event. Brilliant work folks well done.
If you do want to take place in some crag management watch out for our next Bwlch y Moch work weekend 10/11th Jan, details will soon be on the BMC forum.
Cheers
Mike
Guide is now available to download on the Climbers' Club website. http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/.
Free but contributions to our Colin Kirkus fund welcome, see introduction to the guide for details.
David Lanceley
CC Honorary Treasurer
Free but contributions to our Colin Kirkus fund welcome, see introduction to the guide for details.
David Lanceley
CC Honorary Treasurer
In reply to Team BMC:
Well done to the CC team for getting that on line so quickly,thanks and cheers!
Well done to the CC team for getting that on line so quickly,thanks and cheers!
In reply to David Lanceley:
Dam you! I've been hoarding a pristine copy of that for years and just as it was about to be worth something you bring this out!
Dam you! I've been hoarding a pristine copy of that for years and just as it was about to be worth something you bring this out!
Sorry Tyler but the needs of the many weigh heavier than the greed of the individual.
In reply to Team BMC:
Fantastic news - well done!
Scene of my first ever new route "Zonesthesia", which means a feeling of having one's girdle too tight, and which was the answer to a clue on Radio 4's My Word which Bill Parker and I happened to tune into on the drive back to Bangor after we'd done the first ascent - brings back memories!
Fantastic news - well done!
Scene of my first ever new route "Zonesthesia", which means a feeling of having one's girdle too tight, and which was the answer to a clue on Radio 4's My Word which Bill Parker and I happened to tune into on the drive back to Bangor after we'd done the first ascent - brings back memories!
In reply to Team BMC: I presume that much of the crag has been reclaimed by vegetation and given that access is perhaps still sensitive, will it be a case of a free-for-all on the gardening/ cleaning or will something more "organised"( by BMC?0 be arranged?
In reply to earlsdonhammer:
From what I saw ten years ago it will take more than a team of enthusiastic gardeners to access many of the routes, I think napalm might be called for.
From what I saw ten years ago it will take more than a team of enthusiastic gardeners to access many of the routes, I think napalm might be called for.
In reply to Meister:
Morwyn translates a "maiden". So Craig y Forwyn means "Maiden's rock"
Morwyn translates a "maiden". So Craig y Forwyn means "Maiden's rock"
In reply to Team BMC:
As I said above plenty cleaning done already informally, of course you can can do your bit when you go yourself. This is not the venue for a big vegetation managment 'hit' just yet.
On another note, when you follow the parking directions its feel like you've gone past the crag, you have! Stick with and follow the directions, they work. BUT parking very wet at moment I would leave it alone,for a weeka or two in the hope it dries out a bit.
As I said above plenty cleaning done already informally, of course you can can do your bit when you go yourself. This is not the venue for a big vegetation managment 'hit' just yet.
On another note, when you follow the parking directions its feel like you've gone past the crag, you have! Stick with and follow the directions, they work. BUT parking very wet at moment I would leave it alone,for a weeka or two in the hope it dries out a bit.
In reply to Mike Raine:
Well done Mike - gives me hope for places like Eagle and Vixen Tor given time.
Its the working quarries in the Peak that is causing all the problems over our way - we need a break soon on that score.
Cheers
Simon
Well done Mike - gives me hope for places like Eagle and Vixen Tor given time.
Its the working quarries in the Peak that is causing all the problems over our way - we need a break soon on that score.
Cheers
Simon
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