UKC

Björn Pohl reports at 8a.nu.

"It seems Chris Sharma has managed to make the FA of Golpe de estado in the El Pati-sector of Siurana. The route is a direct version of Estado critico and is made up of one 9a part, directly followed by an 8c+ part, without any rest. Chris was a bit hesitant about the grade, but in the end he decided it was most probably 9b.

Read more, but not much more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45514

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: He seems so ahead of the game!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Awesome! He really is a world class sport climber.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Remember seeing that route on dosage 5, looked sick! Funny how all the chris sharma dvds i've seen he has some new project that looks crazy hard, then he climbs it a few/many mouths later! Crazy he still has all this motivation after so long in the sport, good work!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
When he came over here on tour did he do anything on the grit/lime?

In reply to simonwhittle:

it is quite amazing just how long hes been at the top. First time hes graded something in a while too

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Now that really is news - El Pati is an awesomely impressive bit of rock, and with easy access in the centre of one of world's major climbing areas it's there for anyone else to pit themselves against. Sharma seems to have been at the very top of world climbing for years now!

In reply to james oswald:

Who knows, but I bet he couldn't do owt in the Lakes. He hasn't got the pedigree.................

Steve

Whats weird is that if you compare "fanatic search" och "Dosage V" there seems to be a new hold on this one... anyone know more?

There's a small crimp with a hole in it on the undercling move that he is using in DV thats not exist in FS?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

iirc it was Ron Kauk in Masters of stone(?) who said that the Europeans are way ahead of Americans with hard ascents.


Looks like the tables are turning now!:0)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>Chris was a bit hesitant about the grade, but in the end he decided it was most probably 9b.

According to a very recent update on Dalia's blog, the grade is still undecided.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:



First rule of climbing.

Grades are always undecided, always in dispute.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

You know what i mean Mick.

In reply to the inspiral carpet:

Until he finally assumes Spanish citizenship...

In reply to Mr Lopez: Not for Americans, only Chris, at least for the non-boulder stuff. After Chris, it's a list of at least 20 or so Europeans until the yanks factor in (at least for the non-boulder stuff.) Dave G. does appear to be returning to form though...

In reply to dizzy77: Oh, and the obligatory, "What's he ever done on Grit!"

In reply to dizzy77:

Yea, exactly - he's never been climbing round here either !

nowhere can you climb as high with next to no walkin!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

>"is made up of one 9a part, directly followed by an 8c+ part"

Sounds like more of that running two pitches together to get a bigger grade. How long a rope do you need for this one then?

In reply to JLS:

It is a new direct start to Estado Critico an existing 8c+/9a. Have you anything against linkups in general? No idea how long this is, probably very.

In reply to teddy:

El Pati is the crag with La Rambla on, most of the pitches are full length of the crag probably 35 - 40m so long, but not ridicuously so. Looking at the topo, Estado Critico starts up an easier route (easier being 8b+ in this case!) and the goes diagonally rightwards up the wall so a direct start looks pretty logical to me.

In reply to JLS: don't think so, it's just a direct start to an existing route isnt it? The direct start in itself woul get 9a, and the top half in itself would get 8c+. 9a add 8c+ = 9b. SOunds fair.

In reply to Ian Patterson:

>"El Pati is the crag with La Rambla on"

Fair enough, I stand corrected once again.

In reply to GDes:


Yeah I agree. Importantly it says there is no rest between the sections that would individually get 9a and 8c+. Climbing a 9a straight into an 8c+ is pretty hard to comprehend. Fantastic effort and I would assume this will see a bit more attention than Jumbo Love will purely because of where it is.

In reply to seagull: yeah i was asking elsewhere, Has anyone else (Andrada, Graham, Julien etc) been trying this line too? Is he at a different level to those boys or just trying different stuff?

In reply to GDes:

I think so in respect of the 9b's but we will have to see.

or just trying different stuff?

He's trying his projects, I suppose they are different from the climbs that the other ppl u mention are trying. I don't know how much attention this new 9b had from other wads.

In reply to teddy:

My money is on Patxi Usobiaga or Adam Ondra.
A quality line it is too, unlike some of these extended boulder problem high grade routes in grotty little caves.

In reply to martin heywood: Or Ramonet. my money's on Ramonet or Paxti.

The jury's out on that one. I'm with Sharma until we get a confirmed repeat of either Jumbo Love or this new 9b. Have any of those others done 9b? Don't forget Sharma onsights 8c's as well!

In reply to GDes:

There is some very cool footage of Sharma and Andrada trying this route together on that French film (forget the name - The Search or something??). It must be a very early attempt cos they can't really do any of the hard moves. Very cool to watch

In reply to teddy:

The jury is out on what?
Was not aware of any controversy here.

In reply to martin heywood:

There is no controversy. I was just referring to the debate in the above few posts on who is the strongest climber out in spain at the moment, Sharma, Paxti or Ramonet.

By "my moneys on Patxi and Ramonet",
I only meant the strongest contender(s) for a possible repeat of the new line in Spain. I think Chris is the stongest redpoint climber in the world right now, and it might be a minute or two before anybody claws their way up any of the last few years ascents. Es Pontas, the new thing, Jumbo Love, 3 degrees, DreamCatcher, all unrepeated. Whatever, though. What a bunch of stunning lines, that I'll never climb. It's nice to live vicariously through our hero's, and good luck to all of 'em.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:


Pedant alert:
Please spell Dailas name properly.
(Sorry but I can never find the apostrophe on this keyboard.)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
An amazing video of a great looking route. Only about one hold which I would class as being "decent"!!
Is there a video of the actual first ascent?
James

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
The powerscreams are also awesome.