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Andi Turner reports:
Pete Whittaker (17) made the long awaited second ascent of Paul Higginson's A Little Peculiar (E6 7a/b) today on the Roaches Lower Tier.
The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'. Pete finished up Elegy (E2) and later, when asked by me
"So, is it 7b?"
Pete stated "Yes, I reckon so!"
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Pete Whittaker (17) made the long awaited second ascent of Paul Higginson's A Little Peculiar (E6 7a/b) today on the Roaches Lower Tier.
The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'. Pete finished up Elegy (E2) and later, when asked by me
"So, is it 7b?"
Pete stated "Yes, I reckon so!"
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Very fine effort, especially after turning up on the morning to find spindrift snow covering ALL of the holds on the direct section and on the finishing Elegy route.
Mart.
Mart.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
But can it be any wackier than the mantelshelf on Dynamics of Change?
Impressive stuff either way (no way I could bend like Pete, let alone climb like that)!
> The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'.
But can it be any wackier than the mantelshelf on Dynamics of Change?
Impressive stuff either way (no way I could bend like Pete, let alone climb like that)!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Spookily, it occurred to me while watching him do that astounding move on Dynamics of Change on Committed 2 over Christmas that he ought to go and have a look at this. Amazing effort.
Spookily, it occurred to me while watching him do that astounding move on Dynamics of Change on Committed 2 over Christmas that he ought to go and have a look at this. Amazing effort.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Ahh!
I was wondering who it was who had left chalk marks on it when I saw it on Wednesday! Very impressive!
James
Ahh!
I was wondering who it was who had left chalk marks on it when I saw it on Wednesday! Very impressive!
James
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......
But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......
In reply to james oswald: Its a really nasty heal hook!!
I was there when Andi Turner was top ropeing it and it was amazing!!
Amazing line!!
I was there when Andi Turner was top ropeing it and it was amazing!!
Amazing line!!
In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?
nice one pete,bloody good effort.
nice one pete,bloody good effort.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
He does like his heel hooks and crazy mantelshelfs doesn't he?
Well done.
Dan
He does like his heel hooks and crazy mantelshelfs doesn't he?
Well done.
Dan
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Come on Jack, first ascentionist said 7b, second ascentionist said 7b so where does this 7a/b come into it? It's time to set these technical grades free :op
Andi
Come on Jack, first ascentionist said 7b, second ascentionist said 7b so where does this 7a/b come into it? It's time to set these technical grades free :op
Andi
In reply to mark s
Why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?
Because he wondered who had been on it maybe? You say that as if its wrong to wonder whos been on a route!
Why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?
Because he wondered who had been on it maybe? You say that as if its wrong to wonder whos been on a route!
In reply to mark s:
"In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?"
Because it hadn't had a second ascent and I was wondering if it was going to get one. Something wrong with that?
James
"In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?"
Because it hadn't had a second ascent and I was wondering if it was going to get one. Something wrong with that?
James
Nice one Pete ! Bloody long awaited repeat . .
nice to see you took advantage on the cold weather !
J
nice to see you took advantage on the cold weather !
J
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
He will have some Peculiar aches this morning!
An inspiring piece of climbing Pete. Well done.
He will have some Peculiar aches this morning!
An inspiring piece of climbing Pete. Well done.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Well needed ascent. Top stuff!
Well needed ascent. Top stuff!
In reply to andi turner: I certainly wouldn't argue with that Andi!
I just took my news item grade from the nearest guidebook which was Rockfax Western Grit, and also by looking in the UKC logbooks: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=16031 and on the Rockfax website: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6185
However it could be E6 9b for all I know!
Superb effort from Pete Whittaker.
I just took my news item grade from the nearest guidebook which was Rockfax Western Grit, and also by looking in the UKC logbooks: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=16031 and on the Rockfax website: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6185
However it could be E6 9b for all I know!
Superb effort from Pete Whittaker.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
> However it could be E6 9b for all I know!
Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
In reply to Mr Lopez:
Apparently 8a.nu converts the grade of E6 7b to being an 8c sport route grade - you gotta laugh eh?
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> [...]
>
> Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
>
> [...]
>
> Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
Apparently 8a.nu converts the grade of E6 7b to being an 8c sport route grade - you gotta laugh eh?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Cool, couldn't agree more.
As for 8c comparisons, well, we can't compare trad grit to limestone sport climbing, two very different games. I suppose if we had a grand graded list of trad grit routes compared to sport routes then it probably would equate.
I'd have no reservations in saying that Pete would be an 8c equivalent grit climber, his skill, dedication and technique would equate to this, if you get what I mean....
Cool, couldn't agree more.
As for 8c comparisons, well, we can't compare trad grit to limestone sport climbing, two very different games. I suppose if we had a grand graded list of trad grit routes compared to sport routes then it probably would equate.
I'd have no reservations in saying that Pete would be an 8c equivalent grit climber, his skill, dedication and technique would equate to this, if you get what I mean....
In reply to andi turner:
Maybe we should bolt some grit to allow us to give sport grades to grit..........
Maybe we should bolt some grit to allow us to give sport grades to grit..........
In reply to andi turner: the lad is in a differant league
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
James
Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
James
In reply to james oswald:
A lifetime of dedication, then a couple of brief sessions on a rope.
>
> Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
> James
> Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
> James
A lifetime of dedication, then a couple of brief sessions on a rope.
In reply to james oswald:
Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
Chris
> But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......
Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
Chris
In reply to andi turner: If your dedicatid to a route, and want to do it,
like andi and Ramshaw crack, ive heard the storys off Ross!!
like andi and Ramshaw crack, ive heard the storys off Ross!!
Did the FA use a similar sequence to Pete or did he do it differently?
James
James
In reply to james oswald:
new seq' . Paul mantled using a press . Like the victorian over mantle ?
Pete used finesse and technique and no tobacco ! Good on him !
new seq' . Paul mantled using a press . Like the victorian over mantle ?
Pete used finesse and technique and no tobacco ! Good on him !
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Damn, thats why i can't climb harder. Thanks for the tip
> Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
>
>
> Chris
>
>
> Chris
Damn, thats why i can't climb harder. Thanks for the tip
In reply to Chris Craggs:
But don't handholds become footholds if you do? :-/
> Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
But don't handholds become footholds if you do? :-/
In reply to petestack:
Yes, if like Pete you can get your feet up past your head!
Yes, if like Pete you can get your feet up past your head!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I missed all this.......Fantastic effort...its Astonishing the moves this lad can pull
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Only just found out bout this. Fine effort Pete. I was starting to think if it had remained unrepeated for any longer people would have started to question the first ascent! SO 7B it is then...
Only just found out bout this. Fine effort Pete. I was starting to think if it had remained unrepeated for any longer people would have started to question the first ascent! SO 7B it is then...
In reply to paulo: think you did it a differant way tho,pete's super bendy.you're just strong
In reply to paulo:
That's what he said! Brilliant route, great to see it done.
Paul, there would never have been any questioning the first ascent, don't you worry!
SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?
That's what he said! Brilliant route, great to see it done.
Paul, there would never have been any questioning the first ascent, don't you worry!
SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?
In reply to andi turner:
Warm Love and the Quarryman top pitch are 7b
> SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?
Warm Love and the Quarryman top pitch are 7b
In reply to teddy:
Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
In reply to andi turner:
What does LP mean?
Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.
> (In reply to teddy)
>
> Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
>
> Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
What does LP mean?
Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.
In reply to teddy:
Oh I get it. I'll have to take your word for it on that one.
> (In reply to andi turner)
> [...]
>
> What does LP mean?
> [...]
>
> What does LP mean?
Oh I get it. I'll have to take your word for it on that one.
In reply to teddy:
Dunne repeated the groove and the top pitch. He gave the latter E6 7a.
> Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.
Dunne repeated the groove and the top pitch. He gave the latter E6 7a.
In reply to Peter Walker:
Interesting... So there's potential.
I suppose it'd be interesting to know what route 7b's have been done since, they tend to get shot down in flames!
Interesting... So there's potential.
I suppose it'd be interesting to know what route 7b's have been done since, they tend to get shot down in flames!
In reply to andy farnell:
yes you're right, and this is considered to be the perfect example of a 7b move on a route. No downgrade on this one.
> (In reply to andi turner) Wasn't Hubble given E9 7b in old money when first dome?
>
> Andy F
>
> Andy F
yes you're right, and this is considered to be the perfect example of a 7b move on a route. No downgrade on this one.
In reply to andi turner: Did pete robins do Quarryman??
Smoked Salmon E7 7a..as hard as it gets, you could always try it one handed for a 7b
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=324001&v=1#x4780622
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=324001&v=1#x4780622
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