UKC

Anyone know anything about icefall climbing in Mid Wales [south of Cadair, north of the Brecon Beacons]? There is a fair amount of ice above about 400m with some major falls coming into condition if the cold weather holds a couple more days. Don't know if anything major has been climbed in the area either recently or in the past

Going to head into the hills around Plumlumon tomorrow if anyone is in the area.

In reply to Castell: Well seeing as you will be in the area for what it's worth I have always though that Nant y Graig Wen or it's tributaries (Nant Llwydwyn) were worth a look around SH 834 173. Heading North on the A470 you cannot fail to miss it, after Dinas Mawddwy on the righthand side shortly before the road steepens up for Bwlch Oerddews. Pretty sure it is in Welsh Winter Climbs or the old Mid Wales Rock (and a bit of ice) guide. The summer rock climbing in the vicinity is just round east on Craig Cywarch.

Waterfalls are shown on the OS maps and from the road when it is raining it can be seen cascading through the edge of the forestry, they drain the Graig Wen hillside but the source is the spring in Llyn y Fign up at 750m on Glasgwm (I cannot believe I am telling you that there is a lake on top of a hill but that's what the spring does). Rather than one fall I believe it is a series of cascades that probably wont be too much drama if you are on your own. Don't take what I say as gospel, check the guide or Google the cliff for photos - the closest I have been to it is viewing from the road and checking it out in the guide, I have not been down there this winter either. Pob Lwc, just don't go doing anything stupid. Jimm

In reply to JimmAwelon:
I know these falls, been gorge walking up there in warmer conditions. If Ffrwd Fawr isn't climbable I might head across there and have a look.

In reply to Castell: Don't know if this might be of interest:
http://www.info4-u.com/viewarticle/13953-13952-0-103322.html
Has anyone looked at the Llyfnant valley w/fall?

In reply to Castell: Also try a look up the Llanymawddwy valley - Pistyll Gwyn and Nant y Cafn should be frozen by now. They were not last Friday but there has been some much harder frosts since then (several -10C a bit further south).
Also worth an explore if in Plumlumon area are the falls on the escarpment south of Machynlleth.

In reply to davidt2443:
Hi. Yes. I think you mean Pisyll y Llyn, about 300 feet in stages at the head of the cwm. I soloed it last Saturday (3-1-09). I'm a bit newly addicted to ice-climbing, so my opinion isn't based on much experience. From what I know, I'm sure it'd be Grade II in a succession of stages, the steepest one being at the top. There are actually two separate streams producing falls here. I did the left one. The right-hand one, I think, is harder. I found it hard work, enjoyable, a bit 'hairy' at times, and the setting awesome. We're losing the cold weather, now, but one day I'll certainly be back for the right-hsnd branch. If you're local, also check out Craig y Pistyll falls. Hope this may be of some use. Photos available if your're interested. Good luck, Allan.

In reply to Castell: I climbed Maesglasau Falls back in 1985 - a superb route if it's in nick.

In reply to Castell:

I take it that today's thaw has killed everything for tomorrow/sat - even though it's now refreezing ?

In reply to AllanR: pistyll y llyn right hand was good 2day,
left hand not so good,nice to see some local ice.cheers simon

In reply to Neil Anderson:
Depends on how much water was flowing down it in the first place. Once ice is well formed it takes some shifting. Keep the faith. One thing for certain is that it will disappear next week!

NMM

In reply to Castell: Glad to hear Pistyll y Llyn has been climbed again. LH side was first climbed (claimed) by the lads at Outward Bound Aberdovey in '83 at about grade III. RH side was first done (not claimed) in '84 by myself and another ex Aber student Ian Owen and is about III up nice slabs until a much sterner pitch near the top. Someone else had been up it and was going to claim it until we turned up ... but he had escaped below the hard bit! I will try and dig up some of the photos and post them up.
There are other falls further east in the forestry, at about II.

In reply to Tim Sparrow:cheers,have mailed you

In reply to Castell: Big easy angled ice fall to the R of Cywarch (looking up from the hut) on Tuesday when I was up there- can't vouch for the grade or quality, but there was plenty of it when seen from below.

In reply to Castell:

We did Pistyll Y Llyn today via the left hand branch and found it a fantastic trip. Definately getting wetter at the top but found about 4/5 pitches of still thick ice! Imagine this will last a few more days due to thickness but don't quote me! Felt grade 3 at start and easy 2ish with the odd steep vertical step higher up. Probably 500ft or so long and not in the Welsh winter climbs book! South of Machynlleth and seen from the road SE of Glaspwll.
Good to meet Tim Sparrow soloing alongside - having done the first ascent of the right hand 20+ years ago! That's probably a busy day for this valley.
Wish I had got out more times this past week. That's winter in wales for you.
Could you post any photos you got Tim? Cheers

In reply to Tim Sparrow:
Did Pistyll Gwyn on Saturday.

In reply to Tim Sparrow: It'd be good to see photo's of these frozen. I did the other waterfall (the ones with the old mine adit at the bottom in Hengwm) a few years ago (2003?) but they were pretty thin and only just iced. Looked at Pistyll y Llyn then as well, but they needed a good bit more freeze (or bigger cajones!). The LH side must be pretty special when it's well frozen!
Cheers
Deri

In reply to Deri Jones: Photos posted up, though not all of them appeared yet. Make up your own mind as to which is the plum route!
I've only seen pictures of the Hengwm ones after a friend visited them either in 84 or 85.
Tim