UKC

NEWS: Another F9a for Ondra

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 Jack Geldard 08 Jan 2009
Reported on 8a.nu:

Visiting the Calanques outside Marseilles, Adam Ondra made the first known repeat of Francois Legrand's Robi in the sky, F9a.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45546
 catt 08 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Never mind that, afterall a day at the office for Ondra...

"13 year old Enzo Oddo has climbed Alien carnage, F8c+, at Castillon."

Bloody hell. What age was Ondra when he climbed his first 8c+?
 UKB Shark 08 Jan 2009
In reply to catt:Bloody hell. What age was Ondra when he climbed his first 8c+?


12.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews4.lasso?l=2&keyid=35...
 Michael Ryan 08 Jan 2009
In reply to catt:

Geoffray De Flaugergues - Three F8c/+ Aged Thirteen


End of Year: Sport Climbing 2008
by Kevin Avery - UKC

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1487
 GrahamD 08 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

So when of these kids going to up the ante and push the very top grade ?
 GrahamD 08 Jan 2009
In reply to GrahamD:

When is one of ......
 James Oswald 08 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Hopefully soon. Maybe one of them will have a go at one of Sharmas apparent 9bs (I'm not insinuating they aren't 9b by the way).
James
 GrahamD 09 Jan 2009
In reply to james oswald:

Its interesting, isn't it ? Adam must have as many 9a repeats as anyone by now and I've oft seen him referred to as "the future". At what point is it reasonable to expect him to push the boundary ? is it a physical thing ?
 teddy 09 Jan 2009
In reply to GrahamD:

I can't wait for him to rock up on the catwalk and have a crack at Overshadow. It is up there on the 8a.nu well-publicised list of top 10 hardest climbs in the world and Ondra appears to be getting around to doing many of them....eg. Open Air recently.
 GrahamD 09 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:

Interesting indeed.
 teddy 09 Jan 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to james oswald)
>
> Its interesting, isn't it ? Adam must have as many 9a repeats as anyone by now and I've oft seen him referred to as "the future". At what point is it reasonable to expect him to push the boundary ? is it a physical thing ?

Maybe he is not interested in new routes? Maybe he just loves knocking off 9a's every other week (just like us punters with the 7a's). Maybe he is lying in wait for a superproject to present itself? Without asking the guy we won't know. I don't think we should automatically expect anybody to do the very hardest routes eg. 9b+'s. The desire has to come from them. He certainly has time on his side...time will tell.
Waldmeister 09 Jan 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I think when he is finding a proper project, he will show his full potential and is able to use his hard repeats as reference for the grading. He already did some new routing in his home area in Czech.

I find it is very inspiring to see him doing this old unrepeated routes. I hope he is also trying Shogun in the Basler Jura from Eric Talmadge!
Serpico 09 Jan 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to james oswald)
>
> Its interesting, isn't it ? Adam must have as many 9a repeats as anyone by now and I've oft seen him referred to as "the future".

If the story's true he may not be the future, just the present. The tale I heard was that his parents had taken him to see a sport scientist whose speciality was biomechanics. He allegedly said that Ondra needs to get all his hard climbing done now as he predicts he's going to grow and fill out quite a bit shortly, making him too heavy for cutting edge climbing.
How true or accurate that is I don't know.

 Tyler 09 Jan 2009
In reply to Serpico:

You'd imagine he'd have to 'fill out' quite a bit for this to be an issue, Chris Sharam managed the transition from skinny kid to 'quite big for climber' pretty well.
Serpico 09 Jan 2009
In reply to Tyler:
I've just checked his age on 8a.nu and he's 15, he's also already quite tall but very skinny with it. If he gets much over 6' and fills out then that would give him a very different physique to the current top wads.
 Tyler 09 Jan 2009
In reply to Serpico:

Obviously I'm about as well versed in human physiology as I am in space travel but how likely is it for someone that skinny to become chunky, he'd have to go some way to be bigger than some of the top wads (I'm think specifically Sharma again) essentially changing from ectomorph to mesomorph, is that possible post puberty?
Serpico 09 Jan 2009
In reply to Tyler:
I don't know. It depends how true the story is, it came from a reputable source.
Give it a couple of years and we'll know for sure.
 JSA 09 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> I can't wait for him to rock up on the catwalk and have a crack at Overshadow. It is up there on the 8a.nu well-publicised list of top 10 hardest climbs in the world and Ondra appears to be getting around to doing many of them....eg. Open Air recently.

i've just spent ages reding that thread, a couple of posts about the top 10 the rest seems to be jens making a fool of himself and the discrediting of bernabe fernandez's chilam balam
In reply to Serpico:

>he's going to grow and fill out quite a bit shortly, making him too heavy for cutting edge climbing.

Anyone told Alex Huber?

You get the impression Ondra's been quite manufactured, don't you?

jcm
Serpico 09 Jan 2009
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Serpico)
>
> >he's going to grow and fill out quite a bit shortly, making him too heavy for cutting edge climbing.
>
> Anyone told Alex Huber?
>
> You get the impression Ondra's been quite manufactured, don't you?
>
> jcm

I wouldn't call Alex cutting edge anymore, and I got the impression that Ondra was going to get BIG. But like I said; it's just hearsay, time will tell.
As for him being manufactured, I don't get that impression. His parents have definitely been behind him but I don't think that there's been exploitative aspect to it (Ondra the meal ticket).
Or is that not what you meant?

 teddy 09 Jan 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

yes but Overshadow is up there in the list, which is what counts, just cut out all the negative bullshit about Chilam Balam.
 JSA 09 Jan 2009
In reply to teddy:

it's good to see overshadow on the list but it's not really surprising that bernabe has avoided the limelight with all the crap he's getting on there, and has been getting since he climbed CB, i do believe he climbed CB after climbing not much else other than CB for 4 years
In reply to Serpico:

Not any more, but he was, and when he was he wasn't small. Neither was Gullich.

I didn't mean exploitation necessarily, but one thought immediately of this amazing natural talent, and now it seems he has a coach and has had for a long time, got a sports scientist involved, etc. It's not Moffatt and Pollitt kipping in the Stoney woodshed, is it?

jcm
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