UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

so to summarise....don't go off route without knowing it.

btw - Rubicon is 7a+

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

That definitely wasn't the best written article I've ever read....

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Interesting but if Adrian Berry seriously struggled on Rubicon as much as that picture implied then I am Jerry Moffat.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
That was even more confusing than the deliberate transitions are ambiguous article.
Could you get Arno to summarize it nicely in non Psychology speak please?

In reply to Joe Costello:
Maybe Nick had just trod on his fingers !!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
That was a very very difficult to read article.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I was really interested in reading the article but WTF does this mean?

"What is required is to keep attention on the current task. Attention shouldn't be on thinking about the climbing. This will lead to reinforcing the existing mental construct and enhance toughness not flexibility. Attention should simply be immersed in what your body is doing to climb."

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
About the least helpful article ever IMO.

In reply to james oswald:
Too funny. The problem is he's trying to give vegetarian quiche to people who only like pie 'n chips.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Read the first paragraph and then got a restless I'm afraid to say.

However I see the point.

The day is Wednesday the 17th December 2008. A talented and up and coming young rock climber, adored by ladies the world over and just about to sign his first book deal for the title "I am Jerry Moffatt" is climbing Stiff Cheese at Froggatt. He goes up and places his first piece of gear, clips it and plays on the moves above. Comes down for a rest before going higher and placing a "bomber" BD Stopper from his microwire set.
One more rest on the ground and he's ready for the crux.
Pissing the first moves as he's accustomed too and cruising what looked like the crux Will arrives a little tired at what IS the crux. "That wire's bomber as it can be, lets go for it and if I should fall then it won't matter" thinks Will before he attempts t dyno past the difficulties.

It doesn't work. Gear rips (first time for everything). Mr Right Femur meet Mr Very-F*cking-Hard-Rock. They don't get along.

Beware the sureness of your gear! I still can't figure out why it ripped.
Crutches is getting easier though.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: You have to wonder where Arno got his stuff from - but he is one confused person for reasons too complex to detail here. If you do not remain focused on the critical issues (which include the climb itself) you will fail (probably). The point is not to let one thing take too much attention. Of course, how much attention you give to each bit of the equation when under intense menatl and physical pressure is the problem. Some very fit folk cannot handle the mental side, but don't find out until they hit the nearest orthopeadic ward (if lucky bunnies).

RG - who did do psychology 101.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Very difficult to read IMO.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Anyone here read his book by the way?

In reply to Sam L:

It is.

His others are better:

UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Arno Ilgner:

Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous - Mental Training Jul/2008
Learning How to Learn.... to Fall Apr/2008
Motivation Justification Apr/2007
Learn to Expect; Expect to Learn Apr/2006
No Expectations Jan/2006
Why Are You Taking a Risk? Oct/2005
Feeling Safe is Dangerous Sep/2005

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I'll have a read of them after my exams!
Cheers,
Sam

In reply to james oswald: I've read his book and it made reading the article somewhat easier. He is an acquired taste I think.

It's not the greatest article he has written (no sh*t Sherlock!)

What I find interesting about Arno is that he (for me) dissects climbing's mental/psychological/emotional aspects.

I think this article is perhaps one dissection too far?

The first thing that leaped to mind was a mental image of an actor calling "Cut" on a scene and leaning around the camera to ask the director what his motivation is for the scene.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Could you get Arno to write an article about our grading system?

Seems to be a long-winded way of saying 'discretion is the better part of valour'