UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:


Another last great Last Great finally falls - awesome!

What's next?


Chris

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Fantastic, well done Ryan.

What a brilliant winter for gritstone climbing. I saw a guy climb Careless Torque before christmas and then someone on Parthian Shot on sunday. Realy inspirational for a bumbly like me.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Very impressive. Clearly very strong and talented!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Well done to Ryan! Bloomin' fine effort.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: scotty mint.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Congrats to Ryan. Fine effort, great route.

Now with updated photo on the news page.

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Awesome effort Ryan!! Not many LGP's left now...

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
is there any gear on this route? doesn't look like there's any on his harness.
Just hope he's dragged a rope up for no reason, so I'm not the only one that does this!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Amazing effort, well done.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:


Awsome effort to a long standing well known problem - this Gritstone Season is proving the best yet.

Wonder what the grade is? HXS?

Si

Adrian.... thank you very much for getting the photo to us so quickly.

Awesome Ryan....just like your dad.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Wow! It's been a long time coming, amazing bit of rock.
Any ideas on name?

In reply to Sam L:

Give him a chance as regards a name and grade, it was only climbed this morning.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: May I propose Stately Wall?

In reply to Sam L:

Gerty Berwick supposedly. It is carved into the bottom of the route.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Really? I know that carving well, have a picture of it ( I have a slightly geeky fascination with gritstone carvings....).
Stately Gerty would be a nice name!
Sam

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Amazing and inspirational piece of climbing. I've walked past the base of it enough times and it looks hard and very serious. Congratulations to Ryan!

In reply to north country boy:

How about the wall between Cow Udder and Berty Wotshischops?

Awesome effort but.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: a font 8a highball folowed by easier bold climbing above? Thay will be E9 7a shirley?

In reply to Richard Bradley: and on a serious not well done Ryan.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Awesome inspiring climbing Ryan, well done! :0)

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Yet the hardest thing on gritstone?

In reply to Reaver2k: see post two down from the first

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

If he hadn't before, Ryan has really fulfilled his potential on this one, amazing. Would have loved to see it.

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Whoooops

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Goood times!!!!!!!!!!

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Isn't Careless Torque font 8a highball with easier bold climbing above?

In reply to whispering nic: No. Careless Torque is just a pretty normal Font 8a with eaiser bold climbing above.

The only thing that comes close is The Groove, but it has good low gear that makes it moderately safe, although still very dependent on the belayer's reactions.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Eh?

Point being people have been climbing E9 for over 20 years now can we just extend the system a little bit and stop making irrelevant comparisons.

I acknowledge that this is largely due to the UK tech grade getting f****d over but even so...the Waddy scale used dictate that groundfall from a uk 6b move (ie above bouldering height) = E7 and work on from there.

OK so uk6b can be anything from font 5+ to font 7a and uk 6c can go from font 6b to 7c+ but hey why let a grading system evolve in a natural and logical manner when you've got a point to make?

Should I be on a different debate?

In reply to whispering nic:

What Mark is saying is right. The hardest bit of Careless Torque is the bottom which then goes into Font 7c climbing

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Well done Ryan, you'll be as good as your dad one day

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

You done them both then Mark?

In reply to whispering nic:
Ambrosia: 8A+ highball, bad rest, 7c+
Blind vision: 8A highball, no hands rest, 7c+
Ryan's route: 8A highball, ok rest?, 7b?
If the boulder problem is "just" 8A however, I find it odd that no one has done it before.

In reply to Al Evans:

He's already inherited his fashion sense.

Well done Ry!

In reply to Bjorn:


It's a hard pull off an incredibly sharp hold. I belayed Pete Hurley on it years ago; he abbed down it, spent 15mins cleaning the holds, pulled on the crux... and split a tip and went home. I believe many other suitors had the same problem.
It's also high enough to put many off.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Closer than Equilibrium?
French8b supposedly.......

In reply to Bjorn:

The Groove is also 'just' 8A (or even 7C+ according to Kevin J). It is just the nature of Gritstone that the margin between something feeling 'ok' and 'impossible' can be so tiny in terms of conditions, footwork, body position power etc. etc. (compared to other rock types) that until someone has actually done a problem, estimating a grade is often nigh on possible. Add in a highball nature and few people put in the same level of effort as they do on more conventional bouldering venues where repeated attempts are logistically easier.

Continuing the comparisons, there are very few 'routes' or highballs with even close to that level of difficulty:

Careless Torque - Font 8a (interested to here where the font 7c for the upper arete above came from, as I'd read font 7b+ FWIW after Rich S's ascent http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Community/Blog/Article61.htm )

The Groove - Font 7c+ and pretty safe according to Kevin Jorgeson, or Font 8a/8a+ according to JP.

Samsom - Font 8a (6b? moves after crux, bouldered ascent by John Welford)
Superbloc - Font 8a (bouldered ground up by Dan Varian)
[High Fidelity Font 8b and a few other hard boulder problems which were never given E-grades may also fall into this category]

There are no doubt a few more that I'm not aware of, but Ryan's new route certainly looks a bit fair bit more highball than Blind Vision, Superbloc or High Fidelity. However, having never seriously studied the routes, that is only from memory of the crags in question and some comparison of photographs this morning.

Sheffield University are now offering a Masters course in Climbing Grade Analysis.

Seems there should be quite a bit of interest.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Are you looking for an unseen 2:1?

In reply to james oswald: Some 'routes' are ubiquitously described using sports grades (Equilibrium, Parthian, The Zone, Doctor Dolittle etc.) and others using bouldering grades (Carless Torque, Blind Vision, The Promise, The Groove).

I'd say that's significant at least as far as direct comparisons go and that's where the comment originated from. You'll have to ask someone else about if or how 8b and 8A compare.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I think grade pondering is fast becoming the new train spotting.Bring on the anoraks

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Fantastic climbing, and a quality piece of raiding! I've regularly looked up at that line after failing on everything on the back wall of the Calf, and drawn perverse comfort from the fact that even top climbers find some challenges a step too far - now I'll have to pick another fantasy line.

Direct start to Loaded anyone??

In reply to match: There's still always Wizard Ridge. Isn't there?
I have had to revise my last great line on grit twice in the past 12 months

In reply to Al Evans:

Yeah, exciting times! WR isn't 25 mins up the road, so it can't offer me the regular solace I require

I actually find it more inspiring that these LGPs are (after proposed downgradings) falling at a level that a decent handful of talented folks have been operating at for some time now (i.e. we're talking Ft8a cruxes and E8-9s, not Ft8c and E??). Translating to my own modest level of achievement, this suggests that I don't necessarily need to take quantum leaps forward to achieve my goals and tick my projects - just put that little bit more effort in, be prepared to be open-minded about things, and back myself to succeed once in a while

And I know I shouldn't, but as a professed grade anorak I'm hoping that RP offers an E grade for this. Would be fascinating to see how it compares to New Statesman?

And hey, we all know grading can mean squat. If you're not sure give it E8/9, or E9/10, or E8/10! The guidebook writers'll grade it for you anyway (cf JD's HXSs, JA's H9, Soul Doubt and French Duke)!

In reply to match: If you are not fussy about it being grit there are some huge obvious gaps thrown up by Gogarth North.

In reply to Al Evans:

Not fussy at all, just that the bus ride to Gogarth takes a lot longer...

Aside from all the hype about grades, is it me or has this already been the best grit season for yonks?? LGPs going down all over, and more importantly lots of repeats, from quick ticks of the new routes to almost taboo-busting repeats of established desperates (the Yanks soloing Meshuga, JP onsighting EotA, the highball revolution swallowing up Toyboy, PW's mission to find the least comfortable position on a rock face, etc.). Every week there seems to be a new top-level news story for us punters to chew on

In reply to Richard Bradley:


We were privileged to be able to spot/film Ryan on this magical ascent - really impressive stuff!! He reckoned E9 only(!!) because the crux was protected by pads and was sort of highball but it is definitely a route - he placed 3 pieces of kit between the crux and the top and the finishing moves are no pushover. Ryan found the technical grade to be english 7a for him but recognised at least 7b for anyone of normal height!! He therefore suggested a split garde of E9 7a/b but who knows if he will change his mind after a good night's sleep!!

The moves are pretty simple but very very very very morpho. Each move is way beyond the limits of the average climbers span. Hats off to him, I was so inspired by seeing it done that I jumped striaght onto my fingerboard when I got in.

In reply to match:
There are many obvious lines at Ramshaw rocks from the look of the guidebook.
James

In reply to Jordan:
Very impressive Jordan (I appreciate it isn't you typing). Video footage maybe?
James

In reply to james oswald:
(I appreciate it isn't you typing)

??? You must be some kind of psychic....

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Well that's incredibly cool! Can't believe it's static, those reaches look enormous from the ground.

In reply to Jordan: Just tell Ryan that if he needs help grading any more routes it will be a £5.

In reply to Jordan:


So how tall is he, then?

In reply to petestack:

I'm pretty sure he's under 6', in fact 5'10" rings a bell. But that doesn't begin to describe his wingspan, which is colossal.

Ryan is a beast, the strongest climber ive seen by far.
Effortless style and a very layed back metality too.

A well deserved ascent by a jolly nice bloke. I only hope he dosent get too many questions about the damn grade!

In reply to Serpico:

He's at least six foot, he just never stands up straight... ape index +9"!

In reply to Serpico:

I am 5'10 and he is taller than me. You only saw him two hours ago!

In reply to Adam L: maybe The Stooped Apeman would be a good route name?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Probably. I'm thinking back a few years to Ry and Pete comparing reach. Pete was 2" taller than Ry at 6', but ry could reach way past him. It is possible that Ry's grown since then. I maintain that at some point in his life Ry was 5'10".

In reply to Adam L:

It is true that when Ryan stands with his arms outstretched his hands are in different postcodes.

In reply to Serpico:

>Effortless style and a very layed back metality too

Must be genetic, his dad was like that when climbing.

>It is true that when Ryan stands with his arms outstretched his hands are in different postcodes.

Funniest comment yet, bet that brings a smile to his face.

So, for a 5ft climber dynoing between the holds will it be E12?
Don't answer, only those who have done the route can grade it.

In reply to sutty:
In reply to Serpico:

">Effortless style and a very layed back metality too

Must be genetic, his dad was like that when climbing."

Just because they are both laid back mentally does not necessarily mean that it is inherited. Correlation doesn't imply causation.

In reply to james oswald: But Ry has got a bloody good set of inherited climbing gene's.

Andy F

In reply to Adam L:

Except for KP everyone's knuckles drag along the floor in that family !!!!!

In reply to match: I just wish I was still fit enough/young enough to hit those blank spaces shown up on Gogarth I am sure some will be a lot easier when done and will get more ascents than the new grit horrors.

In reply to nbonnett:

Hats off to Ryan. Hank must be chuffed too.

Good to see the Bolton gene starting to reassert its superiority over the Yorkshire punters once more.

In reply to phil kelly: Hi Phil after Goblin roof we should have built a big wall around Yorkshire to keep the Bolton boys out.

In reply to J Dunne:

Hey, John! It started well before Goblin, but that *was* a good away goal by Hank.

In reply to J Dunne: But interestinly what have the Bolton boys ever done on (Lancashire) grit, in fact where are the hard routes on Lancashire grit?

In reply to Al Evans:

We've got a lot of conservatively graded E8's that don't see many repeats. But as for harder stuff the rock doesn't really lend itself to it; it's a bit too vertical and featured generally.

In reply to Al Evans: There's winburry rocks/indian's head up in chew with 'appointment with death' and an E9 'order of the pheonix', plus a few other desperates up there, then there's 'over the moors' at Ravenstones which is E7 but Yorkshire seems to have the best of it

In reply to Red Rover:

Mega project at Wimbery near MaDMAn.......

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
There seems to be quite a few blank gaps at Wimberry.

In reply to james oswald: With the Ilkley route done it only leaves 15 new routes in my little black book

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
How about the arete to the left of The Possessed at Wimberry?

In reply to J Dunne:

Like it, now others will be poring over guides and photos to try and find them.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Wall to right of Appointment with Fear?
Direct Finish to Cedez Le Passage at Ramshaw?
Direct Finish to Monty at Ramshaw?
Wizard Ridge
The Impossible Groove

In reply to james oswald: Surely the Wall to the right of Appointment with Fear has been done aka 'Appointment with Death'?

In reply to james oswald:

Isn't that Appointment With Death?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Sorry you are right. Not in Western Grit.

In reply to james oswald:

http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_lgp.html

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Seen it thanks.
Doesn't mention anything at Ramshaw though..............

In reply to james oswald:

what about the direct on Appointment With Fear. Someone told me, years ago, that Dawes said it would go at 'hard 7a', whatever that means.

In reply to Past it: Is this the fabled "Appointment with Jeff"?

In reply to Past it:
that Dawes said it would go at 'hard 7a', whatever that means.

7b?

In reply to Removed User:

No, that's at wimberry.

In reply to Adam L: Eh? That's what I said?

Mint shot of AWD by the way.

In reply to Removed User:

Sorry, it is at wimberry but its not the direct on appointment with fear.

In reply to Adam L: Ah. So where is the line?

In reply to james oswald: you've never been to ramshaw then?just because there'sd gaps in a guide book doesnt mean there are hard lines between the lines.

In reply to mark s:
To me they look like obvious lines. Also the guidebook says stuff like "could do with a direct start".