In reply to Ben Darvill: In reply to Ben Darvill:
Hey Ben, You might be surprised to hear that those who came top in the Finals of the 1989 World Cup Finals, at Leeds, (last century!)and a random selection of other competitors were drug tested to Olympic standard. (It was very interesting being tested!)Johnny Dawes was not highly placed, but as a person randomly selected & tested, he was, I believe, the only competitor found to have used drugs: marijuana!It was publicised at the time.
'Formal' climbing competitions at any level could perhaps still be seen as 'outside' mainstream climbing culture. I know there's always been informal and intense comp between climbers. Once climbers get into formal comps, it's a 'sport' not a 'recreation', so rules should apply.
I totally support drug-free performances if a person advertises (or profits from) their achievement. Get smashed, do great climbs, enjoying it privately - that's your business.
Pen y Bryn