UKC

i know the snow has just arrived and turf not frozen but thought it worthwhile starting a thread to get some on the ground info coming up to the weekend.
anyone been out looking ?

jas

In reply to jas wood:
Or has anyone poked around at a W facing crag that has been blasted by the wind?

NMM

In reply to jas wood: I'm keen for any info for the weekend too.

Anyone have any idea if any snowed up rock venues may be in? Which ones?

Thanks

In reply to jas wood:

Heavy rain for Thursday

Oh and leave the turf alone

In reply to jas wood:Just back from Helvellyn.. Left thirlspot car park at 7.30 and hit the snow at 250 ish meters. this increased in depth with height. larger drifts above brown cove crags and the ground was solid, rocks riming up and snowing heavily. carried on to top off swirrel. lots of windslab building and dodgy cornice. i would say a considerable risk from avalanche on the upper slopes all along the rim, and the top of any gully so decided to leave the climbing for another day. Looks like it will be good when it settles.. Grand day out all the same. Cheers

In reply to Lee Sheard:
Met Office is carrying simmilar warnings.
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafety/lakedistrict.html

Up there on saturday with a bunch of mates, think walking only tho.

In reply to HikerPunk:

This from yesterday for those who haven't seen it

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1585

In reply to Lee Sheard:

in 1996 there was an unconsolidated fall like that, followed by a day of heavy rain, then it froze... Neve for weeks everywhere

In reply to Anonymous:

That's what I thought, spike in the freezing level, some rain, then a freeze....

In reply to jas wood:
thats what im thinkin, snow & low temps sun-weds, then rain weds night thurs day and then freezing level back down to 300m today and friday, could be good this weekend. any other thoughts people?

In reply to jas wood: I was out today. There's soft neve forming everywhere on wind blasted slopes. If this freezes it will be very good. there's plenty of snow so its unlikely to get washed away. All in all I'd say it looks very promising for the weekend

In reply to Anonymous:
And March 2006...

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: what about the western peaks ? have we had snow on most tops ? particually keen on scafell

jas

In reply to jas wood:

this is only a guess as i haven't been up but i can see Pillar + Gable and they both have a good covering. Gable more than pillar so i would say yes.

In reply to jas wood:
You and me both! Trying to decide whether the drive round will be worthy!

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Looks like the freezing level will rise to 1800m plus on Thursday with rain.
Then cooling during Friday and into the weekend.

I'm waiting until mid Feb as usual. I find January in the Lakes and Scotland a bit ify.
(Well last season the Lakes was ify every month really)

Rain and unconsoidated snow mainly, best wait until the freeze starts

In reply to Viva la Trance: So, where you climbing in the lakes then?

In reply to MattG:

No, but if you read my post I didn't say I was.
Just looked at a few weather forecasts today for the next few days.

As I said, come mid Feb and it's usually all systems go.

In reply to Viva la Trance:

Wot like Friday and Saturday? Best to go and have a look given the fickle nature of Lakes conditions, rather than wait til Feb. (Just know when to back off if it's not in nick).

Personally I might be out for a winter walk / easy route on Friday.

In reply to Full moon addict (and others):
Thursday morning report: there is a major thaw going on at the moment. Last nights rain has washed a lot of cover away. Snow is being stripped at all levels - working outside this morning at Thirlmere you could almost see the snow thinning out. I'll try and upload a picture of Browncove Crags this lunchtime.

Bear in mind the snow that fell on Monday and Tuesday was on unfrozen ground and will have insulated the soft turf. This will be very wet turf indeed today and will need a good hard overnight frost to harden it up. Cooler temps are forecast but for everyone thinking of going to the Helvellyn area at the weekend, please read the conservation section in the new guide and be prepared to back off if it's not frozen.

Cheers
Davie

In reply to DR: Thanks for the update. I think Steve Ashworths blog update says it all really. Snowed up rock routes are in nick. One word. Scotland.

In reply to DR:
Still plenty of snow on western hills and at present sleeting heavy in Egremont.
Plan to run over Scafells before backshift tomorrow to see how things are shaping up.
Alan.

In reply to Alan Bowness:
PLEASE REPORT BACK !
i,m especially interested in moss ghyll but aware good conditions don,t form overnight for these types of route.

jas

In reply to Anonymous:

Quite a dump of snow last night. Moss ghyll will most likely be full of fresh snow. Probably climbable but it will take a long time clearing snow from the holds

In reply to Anonymous: The only way to know is to go and have a look, but I would think it needs a little more freeze thaw. Snowed up rock probably the best bet this wekend.

In reply to Exile: What do people think about Bowfell buttress area for the weekend?

Would east or west facing crags be better for snowed up rock given current wind and snow?

Thanks,
Doug

In reply to Anonymous:
Heavy over night snow have made conditions very unstable and hard going with drifts up to three feet deep.
The older snow (where exposed!) is starting to firm up fairly well but very little ice at present.
Moss ghyll and Steep ghyll are full of snow but again I could see no ice, the whole crag has a good splattering but would be hard work not being in condition.
What ever you do this weekend enjoy but take care.
Alan.

In reply to jas wood: Anyone know what the conditions are like around Red Tarn Cove today? Would it be worth going up tomorrow (sat) morning?

In reply to jas wood:
According to a friend of mine who lives in Conniston and works in Ambleside, the temperature had dropped again this morning and it was snowing down to road level near Skelwith Bridge and setttling, 50-70mm.

Hope that helps some folks.

In reply to HikerPunk: there's loads of snow on the higher peaks. snow level has risen to about 300m. about 5-6cm of snow last night, but much more on tops. its not exactly neve though. You'll be floundering in any gullies.

In reply to jas wood:

Got out walking today, was going to Helvelyn but the road is closed, so just walked to stony cove pike from Kirkstone pass. The snow was deep (thigh deep in places)and very light powder, nothing underneath was frozen as well i know as i fell into many bogs.

Totally exhausting small day out. There is some windslab forming and would say the avalanche risk would be high.

Needless to say i very much odubt any climbing is in, it just wanst cold enough and nothing is frozen. Maybe in a few days if we get some cold weather.

In reply to Full moon addict:

Went up to Stickle Tarn, up Jakes Rake and bimbled over to High Raise then back down. Loads of snow - right down to the valley this morning - probably about 4-6" up high, lots of deep drifts on the lee slopes, but pretty warm - freezing at about 700m. Some good neve forming on windward slopes, but it was still a bit soft. A lovely day and some stunning views before the clag came in. It was snowing lightly as I left.

I imagine that anything gully like and east facing will be quite exciting, and that the turf's not really frozen anywhere. Excellent walking weather mind.

Any news from Great End? Thinking of heading up tomorrow...hoping to scramble up a grade 1

In reply to jas wood:
Just been on Coniston Old Man - soloed Summit Route in Walshes which was surprisingly good fun (cold toes though!). Fine sunrise, nobody else about. A huge amount of snow about, in partucular from Low Water up. However, although probably just about frozen towards the summit everywhere else is thawing rapidly. Just a huge dump of snow on top of wet unfrozen turf.

Very fine day for a winter walk/run though. Get out there!

Now its time for breakfast.

DSM.

In reply to DSM: Had a scout up Causey Pike and Crag Hill to watch a very red sunrise this morning. There's loads of snow upto 3 feet deep in places but it's dry snow and wet underneath...very soft underfoot.

I'd go for a walk and have a nice day out...I doubt there'll be anything to climb of quality today. Nothing frozen.

In reply to Big Andy:
Nice one Big Andy - its a wonder more folk dont go out early. Quite often its the best time of day in Winter. Before the thaw and before the crowds!

DSM

In reply to jas wood: Went up to Great end this morning plenty of deep soft snow drifts of over a metre deep .Did a pit test and there is a 3 inch think crust which sheared really easy underneath soft snow.Did not seem that cold at the bottom of the crag very little signs of any ice forming.There were at least 2 parties in central gully.I would say more freeze thaw cycles requirred to produce good climbing conditions.

In reply to jas wood:
I was in the Lakes, up Deepdale, hoping to do a gully on Fairfield, but the snow was difficult to say the least. Two teams persevered, and I hope they had a good day. I battled across slopes ridden with minor avalanches, and there was a distincly sinister feel. I finally broke through a nearly-collapsing cornice at Deepdale Hause. The problem was that crampons were needed, although intermittently, with thigh-deep snow mixed in up to the corniced ridge. On breaking through the cornice I noticed a crack along the upper edge.
Still, after a hot bath, a good meal, cooked by a good woman, and a glass of something to hand, in retrospect it was a fantastic day of struggle, and one I'll remember forever.

In reply to Removed User:
bit of luck things will get slightly warmer before a cold spell and hey presto climbs will be in condition.

ended up doing south west ridge and arete and arete on the cobbler which was hard work in deep snow but okay on the ridge, had a good day also

jas

In reply to jas wood: Above 800m the turf is generally frozen, a relic of the cold start to january I guess, there is a lot of snow above 650m, if it gets frosty then conditions will improve rapidly I should think.

In reply to MattG: cheers anyone know if high turf is/was frozen up on gable at the weekend perhaps ?

In reply to jas wood:

We were up around Gable this weekend (on the Napes crag area but we didn't climb anything, we traversed in too high and had a nearly epic on loose snow/scree slopes instead!) Everything seemed quite soft to me. But I am a novice so I can't really be trusted!

In reply to jas wood: Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crag was excellent on Saturday, the pinnacle itself was a highlight and in this condition with plenty of snow on the ridge itself, the route is the Lakes equivalent of Dorsal Arete. The snow was soft on the approach but once on route it was not a problem.
Sat night it snowed again and Sun we went up Easy Terrace/Intermediate Gully on Dow. There was thawing at all levels and the snow was wet and it even rained on us at one point. Not as good as Sat but still a good day out

In reply to jas wood: ONly the higher bits of the crag were frozen, pinnacle ridge could be approached via good neve and was then well frozen but lower bits fo the crag were crap, some mates tried gable end and quickly retreated saying it was muchy and crap, went to green gable for a look but it was muchsy and rubbish

In reply to jas wood:
went on gable saturday, climbed pinnacle ridge. Deep snow in places but decent neve and frozen turf where needed. Good route, the top pitch gave good sport in current conditions. other parties central gully and a team on green gable. excellent day.

In reply to jas wood: My old man was out yesterday on dow crag, snow is soft but looks frozen the higher you get, follow the link and you ll see the pics
http://www.ian-broadhurst.co.uk/webpages/dow-crag-09/index.html

In reply to crowberry gully: Did you notice if the crack was iced on the wall just off the ridge?

In reply to Ian Black: It wasn't today, the rest of the route was good

In reply to Ian Black: no ice, snow on the holds which brushed off easily

In reply to Ian Black: Cheers fellas. Sounds like we could have some good conditions if the weather settles and we get another cold spell.

In reply to Ian Black:

The question is, will it be this week or next. Or even not at all. I'm prepared to re-arrange things to fit a trip in Wednesday or Thursday, but the week after would be more convenient. Can anyone organise this? Thanks in advance.

In reply to Bingers: Thats the wonder of UK winter climbing. You've got to be opportunist. I'm in Cogne this week, so I've ordered good conditions for the following week.

In reply to Ian Black:

I hope you've good connections in the right places.

In reply to jas wood: Is this THE Jas WOOD ,if so thank for lift!!!!down from crag.
Snow a soft on Helvellyn on sat win chill forming ice on summit

In reply to jas wood: Snow on Great End on Saturday - very deep (swimmingly so in parts) but not consolidated/frozen. Turf just mush and no subsatntial ice. If the temperatures drop a lot, could be mint.

In reply to jimorothy:
anyone been around scafell recently ?
if the forecast holds true might give it a try early doors sunday, particually interested in moss gill (more build up required ?)
any info appreciated

jas

In reply to jas wood:

No new picture on the weatherline site today. Am going to wait for next week now, to see what the cold snap brings.

In reply to Bingers:

But the Striding Edge chappie has been out to Helvellyn this week. For his usual stunning photography, including good shots of the cornices along the edge of the plateau:

http://www.stridingedge.net/Walks/2009/26.01.09.htm

You'd have thought he'd educated the dog about cornices, didn't it read the warnings on the weatherline?

In reply to jas wood:
Out today on Scafell, what I could see of moss ghyll it still looked fairly well built up with snow but not ice.
As with every where else snow not in the best of shape just yet, but a good freeze will put things right.
Alan

In reply to Alan Bowness:
Ran up Wetherlam early this morning - lots of snow still on all Northern aspects, and at 8AM the snow surface had quite a hard frozen crust. Indeed quite slippery towards the top. Lots of rock and grass visible though which was only just frozen really. All easy gullies on Wetherlam / Hen Crag had deep footprints up them from previous days. However, pre-9AM all snow above about 500m was hard enough to walk/run on without breaking through. Seemed to be warming on the way down though?

Then went home for breakfast & planted 250 Hornbeam trees before lunch. My back now aches somewhat.

Anyone been to Great End today (Saturday)?

DSM.

In reply to DSM:
Easy Gully on Dow was in great nick today.

In reply to Neil Conway:
The conditions on the Coniston tops today were perfect - iron-hard neve, and sheet ice. Dow looked fairly bare, but the gullies were in. a few teams enjoyed themselves there today.

In reply to jas wood:

The snow pack in/on Brown Cove Crags was hard as nails late yesterday evening, after being blasted all day by freezing winds. A complete contrast from the largely unconsolidated snow of the morning. Def worth a look.

In reply to jas wood: next weeked looks promsing?

In reply to kristov:
for anyone interested the gullies on great end are in decent shape and central gully far left branch offered fist time placements and good climbing bottom to top, custs gully is chopped out and steps all the way (perfect decent) window gully has ice but not a great deal, icefall finish is thin but complete and we got up it no bother.

imo the snow we have will take some shifting as it,s bullet hard in places and should stay a while yet.

jas

In reply to jas wood: Was up on brown cove crag today.The snow conditions were perfect.Hard packed snow and frozen grassy turf.Mossy turf not as good.

In reply to jas wood: the crags around dollywagon north were good today for 3s and 4s, the easier
gullies on helvellyn scarp are in good nick, red tarn face looked great.

In reply to MattG:

Thanks for that. How much snow was in the constriction on Number 1 Gully? Was it a tight squeeze, or was there a reasonable bank to raise the floor level?

In reply to jas wood: By way of a change tried to climb on Shelter Crags in Langdale today but none of the lines were really complete.
Went to Traverse Crag instead (on the climbers traverse to Bowfell Buttress). Climbed Chockstone Gully, quite a nice climb but wasn't in very good nick. The snow was very crusty and very sugary underneath. It wouldn't hold picks very well and all the rocks were very verglassed.

If the other crags in this area, Cambridge Crags, Bowfell Buttress etc.are similar which they probably are (same altitude and aspect), I'd give them a miss.
Sounds like the "usual suspects" were a better bet. So much for seeking a change!

In reply to jas wood:

Went up the gully (Probably Grade I/II ?) in right hand side of Pillar Cove (on Pillar) that exits just at the Summit Shelter. Anyone know what its called? There is a large build-up of neve here which having thawed during the week and then refrozen on sunday was great. Some of the gully lines here are showing cracks where an avalanche might occur if it gets warmer without some more snow first. It looks as if there is more snow on the way though, so its all good! Note that Pillar Rock itself was looking quite dry.

In reply to jas wood: Went up to Scrubby - The buttress was balck but Pinnacle Gully complete. Plenty of ice up left but hollow and detached in places.

Climbed Central Gully on Great Gable on Sat which was in good nick. On Sun we then climbed Deep Gill Intergals on Scar Fell Crag which I now think rates as the best winter route ive done in the Lakes. The exposure looking down into Deep Gill is awesome. I thought it hard for grade III, think it might have suffered a rock fall or I could have just been climbing badly. Anyone else done it lately?

In reply to kenneM:

We also climbed on scafell yesterday doing steep gill which was in ok nick (snow not quite consolidated) another party headed up moss gill. Plenty of snow fell overnight though so things will be quite different now!

In reply to Bingers:

No 1 Gully in excellent condition, good neve and a little ice but some parties took unnecessarily large amounts of it away - a little delicacy pse

cornices still evident above certain parts of face - a safe descent down the snow bowl is possible on the Swirral side, but cornices present summitwards.

No 1 and 2 gullies safe exits. Evidence of large cornice collapses N of Swirral Edge

However, snowing heavily at the moment and a lot of snow fell overnight

In reply to Anonymous:

conditions for summit were from yesterday

In reply to chris m fisher:

What is the pro' like on it?

In reply to Exile:

The crux chimney has okish gear, there after its run-out. Not a route you'd want to fall off put it that way, definatley worth doing though.

was up on brown cove crags yesterday, best conditions i've seen in recent years, well consolidated snow pack + lots of it. Has made the routes about a grade easier compared to the usual conditions which you expect to climb in, get out and enjoy!

In reply to chris m fisher:

Thanks for that.

I was out on Brown Cove Crags yesterday too, must agree, conditions in the gullys were excellent, had a ball!

In reply to jas wood:

been in brown cove today - acres of neve - stunning conditions, loads of ice good frozen turf, bit breezy like and lots of new powder drifted into gullies - easily avoided tho'

In reply to Anonymous:

Cheers Mr Mous. Any news from Nethermost Gully?

In reply to thecurlyone:

Think they just call them west cove gullies, good to climb away from the popular areas.
I had a look at pikes crag late this afternoon and had an easy climb up long gully,a lot of fresh snow with ice building up and solid turf.
Alan.

In reply to Bingers:

I went up Nethermost Gully yesterday.

Some avalanche debris at the bottom of the snow slope and the avalanche slide marks all the way up.

Because of the cold night on Saturday and the cold day on Sunday, all the way up the snow was good, hard neve. It can't be deep though, because there were one or two places where it was a bit scrappy, down to the grass/rock.

In two places where the gully narrows, the snow thinned out a bit and the moves were on rock, turf and water ice, but never for more than 4-5 moves.

At the top, there is a cornice, but nothing too big. The snow at the top was okay in the cold but wouldn't take much to make it weak and sugary. The cornice was easily avoided either left or right.

Despite any negative comments, it was in pretty good nick and a good morning's outing.

Don't all ruch at once.

In reply to kenneM:

Saturday we also Did Central Gully on Gable,(we where the Early birds) Perhaps you followed us up? With regards to the climb you must have a different definition of in nick as we found the Snow was chossy and there wasn't much ice around. Having said that this made the route very challenging and well worth doing. One to go back and do in better conditions.

Sunday went up to Great End and there the conditions where far better, with some very good Neve and Ice about. Climbed S.E and Window gully.

Looks like we've got a good spell in front of us, fingers xd

Enjoy

Derek

In reply to jas wood:

any updates from today ?

looking at helvellyn for tomorrow

someone must have been out on such a glorious day

cheers

anyone been on bowfell buttress in the last couple of days? any info on conditions would be appreciated.

cheers

In reply to biscuit: loads of neve around on Harter Fell. Conditions are becoming very good.

In reply to SageStuffing: All i can tell you is that it looked like this from a distance and that the snow was compacted and solid.( i was kicking steps to get up to here) the turf however wasn't frozen and what ice i saw was brittle. of course i was a bit lower than the climbing up there. oh and it was indeed a glorious day. http://flickr.com/photos/jonbassindale/3250506343/sizes/o/ Sorry i can't be of more help.

In reply to jon bassindale:

thanks for that, i'll head up tommorrow.

cheers

In reply to SageStuffing: We were out on Brown Cove Crags today the neve was bommber, no cornices, big blue skies and powder to play in walking, unbelievable conditions for the uk, pics going up shortly in winter climbing photos.

anybody climbing in a 3 tomorrow and need a fourth? heading up to brown cove anyway tomorrow

In reply to ntb: I want to come!!

get your arse in gear then and pull a sickie!

In reply to ntb:

yes - arriving at dunmail raise at about 9.30

heading up to dollywagon - north area, etc.

feel free to join up with us

In reply to Tom Phillips:
Dollywagon N was in great condition the other day. Only single pitch routes but good long 50m pitches and some great snow ice, sketchy cornice at the top in parts tho.

NMM

Any updates on hellvelyn conditions, particularly red tarn face, looking at saturady and weather forecast appear to be predicting below freezing between now and then. Hoping to find something grade 2 to 3 if anyone has any advice or comments they would be most appreciated

cheers

In reply to higgins: helvellyn will be mobbed as conditions should be good, why not try great end which has far better routes and won,t be AS busy ?

red tarn face is the most over rated place i,ve ever been ! imo

have a good time jas

In reply to higgins: See http://www.lake-district.gov.uk/weatherline

In reply to jas wood:





It is Jas, but its got good routes for a days soloing. I never go there if I've got a partner. That said Great end is decent for a spot of soloing.

In reply to Ian Black: great end is a decent spot for soloing as i did last weekend, did central left branch came down custs went up window gully icefall variant then down custs and back at the car for half one

i just don,t think tarn face its very good for CLIMBING but is a nice place addmittedely.

jas

In reply to jas wood: I might head up great end tommorrow. Just back from Cogne yesterday and was going to have a days DIY, but these conditions are too tempting.

In reply to Ian Black: Ian,is that you? stop beating on about Cogne. you would think it was the only place in the world to climb ice. I heard enough about in Il froide. laters

In reply to Mark Atkin: Ha, it is moi. Thought you'd retired Mark. Forgot I'd mentioned Cogne

In reply to jas wood: cheers will prob have a look at great end

In reply to jas wood:
red tarn face is the most over rated place i,ve ever been ! imo

4 - 10 years? not seen it in really good nick then?

In reply to Anonymous: Yeah, lots of the higher Helvellyn crags, like Red Tarn, Dollywagon north etc are in fine condition, I'd especially recommend Dollywagon, the routes are sustained and interesting and contain more quality climbing than many more famous routes, well worth it, especially with the current snow ice there.

In reply to MattG:
I agree. Rescue Groove sticks in my mind as a continuously interesting climb all the way up.
No plodding, just class.

Oh, and Dolly Daydream may not have had a second ascent and is likely to be far easier than the guidebook grade in current conditions.

In reply to Anonymous: i,ve climbed there in good nick and climbed almost all the routes in the current guide at this venue (tarn face) and did,t think any of them where a good climb to be honest.

lets face it this crag has a fine outlook and is nice looking ut the climbing is straight forward plods but if thats what you like then fine and dandy.
i just think other places in the beautiful lakes offer far superior climbing

join the hoards and experience the solitude !

jas@work

In reply to Anonymous: Went up to great end last night. Alot of consolidated deep snow in gullies making it straightforward with steps up most of the way. RH branch ice step was only about 6ft grade 2/3. LH branch looked exellent just didn't have time to go back down and give it a go unfortunately. Had to get up for work this morning !

In reply to Ross McGibbon: Actually my friends and I did Dolly Daydream on Sunday, so it's had at least 1 more ascent. At the moment we thought III and maybe tech 4 as there are currently several 70 degree sections with some cruddy ice, it's a good route though, maybe worth a couple of stars. I can't remember the name of the other route, 1 of the grade 4s, but not rescue groove, going back for that one

In reply to MattG sumwhere els:

An excellent route - worth taking a 60m rope! If you find that OK - try Thrash Corner - I found that a desperate move (well protected though).

In reply to MattG sumwhere els:
Hey, we need to shush - don't want the crag getting as busy as Red Tarn!

Thanks for the grade thoughts - good to get a second opinion.

In reply to Anonymous:

Jas, generally I'd agree, but I do think Viking Buttress stands out as being very good.

In reply to Exile:

some pictures from yesterday

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/labdet/DollywagonFeb09#

ice pitch here is on the side wall of dollywagon gully. (you return to gully easily)

great ice at top of nethermost. but beware of ice coming down if it's busy at weekend! we had it to ourselves yesterday. falcon crag gully was fun as well, although a bit more turfy!

In reply to Tom Phillips:
Looks good icy mixed climbing. Lots of ice has formed since sunday.

NMM

In reply to MattG sumwhere els:
Did we? Given that there was 2 pieces of rock pro in a 50m pitch and with quite a few moves of tech 4 that weren't very well protected I would say III/IV 4 was a suitable grade. I have done quite a few routes at that grade and it should really be used more often as its quite a step up from III to IV.

NMM

In reply to Ross McGibbon:
The first ascent was in March 2006, nuff said.

NMM

In reply to All:

Has anyone been anywhere out West recently?

Heading over to the East Buttress tomorrow with fingers crossed...

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
I know. I was on it. Hence the interest in opinions on whether it was correctly graded.
This talk of tech 4 and all that will be swelling my climbing partner's head too much so how about some hints that it was more like a II.......

In reply to Ross McGibbon:
Ah! My apologies. Haha! Yes indeed, maybe II/III perhaps?

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Quite right. I did all the hard work. He only spotted the line & led the harder pitch. I had the much tougher job of naming it!

In reply to all:
As Hindu has asked already, any news on conditions other than Helvellyn and Great End. Such as Dove Crag?, Langdale?,Pavey Ark?, Black crag icefall?,Scafell?
Up there for Sunday and Monday (I also need a partner for Monday).

did bowfell buttress yesterday. was in great condition, bomber turf, ice and neve where you needed it. although chimney on the first pitch was bare. top half of route was more hoared up than the bottom though.BEWARE. the descent gully on the left of bowfell buttress was lethal,

enjoy

In reply to Martin Haworth:
i,m aslo interested if anyone has been into any less frequented ?

jas

What are the roads like at the moment? We are thinking about going up past Ambleside to Grasmere / Thirlmere.

In reply to jas wood:
Anyone been up to Blea Water recently. Thanks for any info !!

In reply to Martin Haworth:
I was also considering Dove Crag on saturday. I would be suprised if there was enough water for Black Crag icefall.

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Blackcrag ice fall looked thin from my viewpoint driving over kirkstone yerterday. On Dove Crag itself the rock base bare (may have changed since) but there was a good white line where the prize gully lies...

In reply to hindu:

Thanks!

NMM

In reply to jas wood:

...then can they keep it to themselves or there'll be queues all weekend

In reply to Toreador:

Yup, I know where I'm going and I'm not telling.

Best place for those coming from afar and wanting reliable climbing is the usual honeypots; Helvellyn, Gt End etc. Both will be in excellent condition, other areas may be marginal, who knows?

In reply to 3leggeddog:
Any one up there presently and have a clue on road conditions heading A591/A592 M6 to windermere to glenridding?

In reply to snakebite: if it's snow and ice your concerned about, we haven't had any. the forecast for tonight is worth checking out though. also a lot of roadworks on the A591

In reply to jon bassindale:
Ta bud. The website has crashed the last couple of times i've checked tonight with so many people on it!

In reply to snakebite: thought i'd take a look at metcheck myself. it's, um, remarkable....http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/warnings.asp

In reply to jon bassindale:

Your not wrong there, not seen a blanket UK wide covering of warning like that before...

In reply to Toreador: indeed.

In reply to jas wood: Was up on dollywagon yesterday, soloed dollywagon gully, the best conditions that i've seen in years. good ice, well compacted snow wasn't untill the final pitch when the ice started dinner plating,aside from that it is in perfect nick, must admit we didnt set off till late, didnt get on the route until 1 pm so this is probably why. heading off to scotland tomorrow, camping at the cic for a few days so i hope its as good up there as it is in the lakes!

In reply to jas wood:

Today was a superb day. The forecasted low cloud and strong winds never materialised. Sometimes there was blue skies and sunshine.

I kicked off with Catstye Cam Gully as I'd never done it and fancied a change from the usual way up to Red Tarn face. Lower down it was hard at the edges, but a bit soft in the middle, but got firmer as you ascended. It is probably a good route for a beginner to try out without lots of others wanting to pass by or descend past as will probably be the case on this weekend at Number 2 Gully. There are no unexpected difficulties other than a slightly convex finish which means the end never seems to get any nearer.

Back in December I bottled Number 1 Gully as there wasn't enough snow or ice in the constriction, causing me some potential difficulties, so I left it for another day. That was today and it was in good nick with plenty of ice. Can see it getting hacked to death over the forthcoming weekend. Get there tomorrow and beat the crowds.

Number 2 Gully has plenty of good firm snow and very little exposed ice in the middle section. No cornice problems for the exit.

Nobody seems to have been descending the snow bowl, but myself and others have been traversing from Swirral Edge. Most of the snow there is firm, but there were acouple of sections of deep windslab that sheered off a bit, so take care on the traverse or approach from below.

There was at least one team on Viking Buttress and I saw another pair topping out of Nethermost Gully, where there is an uncorniced bit. Overall, very few people out climbing.

In terms of travel there from snowed in parts of the country. On my way up the A65, the snow in the fields at the side of the road more or less runs out at Hellifield (apart from the higher ground) and didn't really start again until getting quite a bit higher in the Lakes. No problems today for Kirkstone Pass other than the usual bit of frozen seepage on the Troutbeck side. The Struggle is still closed (roadworks?) but there is only one tiny bit of traffic light controlled roadworks near Hartsop.

Sorry for the length of this, but I think some of it may be found useful by someone, bearing in mind that the world and his dog will be heading that way this weekend. I didn't visit the less frequented places, but conditions generally looked as though they might be good. Get out and enjoy it while you can.

In reply to Fatherof2:
was up there today - LH Branch was excellent indeed all the way tot the top. Window fun too but pitches relatively banked out, including the variation finish which was fun but the steep start was banked out.

Had it to myself, though met one or two folk in Central. Re Helvellyn, I have not seen it in the conditions I got used to in the 80s and 90s in the last ten years which have been relatively thin. On a quiet midweek in those days when there was both neve and huge amounts of water ice it was a glorious place

In reply to Bingers:
I descended the snow bowl on Sunday and yesterday. It was fine. Fulfilled a promise of 13 years and took my wife to No 1 which she soloed and was her first grade II. Nice nick and not a trivial first effort I thought

In reply to jas wood:


Sooo... Is Helvellyn gonna be not worth bothering with on Sat?

Only done Sharp Edge in winter conditions so far, but was thinking of heading up to Helvellyn and maybe doing Striding Edge or a gully. Are they gonna be like Oxford Street?

Anyone care to recommend me somewhere a bit quieter with easy routes? :P

In reply to grumsta: Mid Wales ?

In reply to Neil Anderson:

Hmm less than an hour to patterdale vs 3+ to mid-wales

In reply to grumsta:
be early and meet the crowds as you are going down

In reply to Anonymous:

Aye good point!

In reply to jas wood: South Rake, Easy Gully and Great Gully on Dow Have are holding well. The snow is in excellent condition. The chock stone on Easy Gully is almost banked out and you can get past it with out reverting to the traverse. The initial chock stone on Great Gully is a bit thin so you need to climb the crack to get over it. Easy Terrace looks good also but didn't have time to do it. The back wall above Low Water is plastered with snow but the ice still needs a few more days yet. Suspect Great Carrs and Raven Tor might be good but didn't get chance to get a look at them.

what grade is red tarn gully?

In reply to jas wood:
Been up on Scarfell today, unfortunatly couldnt find any friends so had a day soloing.

It is in nic

climbed easy gully to the right of shamrock area, which brings you out at the perched block on lords rake, used West Wall traverse to bring me into the upper reaches of deep gill and used one of the upper exit routes to bring me to the summit(old professors chimney).

Descent down the side of broad stand, you can absail of a block ab tat left in. finished off with Mickledore chimney.

Wicked day snow, ice and turf in very good condition, saw a team on Tricouni Slab. if you can be botherd to come to the west well worth the effort.

In reply to rich but:

anyone around for a session in lakes tomorrow? grade 3/4 ish stuff?

In reply to Tom Phillips: Will be up there about 2ish and have no partner.Working in the morning.Was planning on grabbing a route or two before dark.

In reply to Bingers:

A grand day eh? I was the guy behind you on Catstye Cam gully. I think you summarised things very well.

So - just got back to Edinburgh after meeting my mate in the Lakes for the last couple of days. How awesome are the conditions there then??? Went up to Scales Tarn on Blencathra yesterday and did the obvious gully above the Tarn on perfect ice and Neve - goes at about I/II and then today walked up grains to Great End. Up Central gully with the right hand finish and again - perfect conditions plus a view for miles from the top and even sunshine. Descended Custs and then bumped into Alan Hinkes who was just on his way into Central Gully for a wee solo. Forecast is for more of the same tomorrow too but sadly have to work. If Stuart who was on the left fork with his mate is reading this then your e-mail address doesn't work mate - tried to send you a couple of photos.

In the west Honister was thin ,seriuos on Tuesday.Gullies around Warnscale were frozen high up.All the easy gullies are full of bomber neve.Little new snow,but some light snow now.

In reply to jas wood:

http://www.mixedmaster.blogspot.com/

In reply to jas wood:


-9.6c at Shap this morning so the stuff above Blea Water might in but then again that is not exactly an 'out of the way' location in terms of popularity!

In reply to lorettocourt:

I met you in ~central below the icefall - nice to have the crack. Did window after I left you - you passed below the icefalls just as I was getting into the upper gully which was fun. I thought I heard Alan's voice as I went down.

Hope you enjoyed your day

In reply to jas wood:

Stunning day today, incredibly clear - v jealous of anyone who manages to get out and maybe beat the weekend hordes (of which I will be one!).

Great day for photographs too I reckon.

In reply to Tom Phillips: I'm on for a trip this weekend and it seems all my mates are tied up with other things. I can get up there tonight for a play Saturday and Sunday. I've played at grade 4 a few times.

In reply to grumsta:



your not wrong. Sadly, i could only drag myself to loughrigg tarn for first light, but i got some ' tourist' shots of the pikes and wetherlam if anyone wants to see todays weather. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonbassindale/

In reply to jon bassindale:
having been just let down i,m looking for a partner for saturday in the lovely lakes !

jas

In reply to jas wood: Things are looking good for next week also. I ended up doing a bit of soloing on the buttress's on Brown cove crags, conditions were very good. No time off now until thursday

any ideas about the state of st sunday crag?

In reply to mikey tugmaster:

No, but if you do the girdle traverse please let us know what it's like! (On my list of esoterica to do.)

In reply to Ian Black: looks like i,m on my tod so it will be up great end prob left branch of central then over to scafell to link a few easier routes to the top on my tod (with any luck).

jas

In reply to Exile:
how would deep ghyll intergral climb as a solo (i,m assuming very necky and naughty) but would like to do it !

jas@mams

In reply to Anonymous:

To be honest I've not done it, just heard from a very experienced climber that it's the best route of the grade they've done in the Lakes. I have a plan to one day climb one of the ice routes on the Shamrock to Lord's Rake and then climb the Intergal. This would be over 300m of climbing. You could do that yourself and then see what you think about the Integral when you reach Lords Rake, if you don't fancy it you'll still have done a route.

In reply to Exile:

just been to have a look at rampsgill head gullies - nothing there in condition - powder on vegetation!

nice scenery though - pictures here

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/labdet/RampsgillHead#

In reply to jas wood:

Any reports on Hutaple crag?

In reply to Exile: think i,ll have a look tommorow and if it,s no go i can drop into deep ghyll or something !

jas

In reply to vincentvega: Last sunday there was a fair amount of neve round hutaple, so I should think it will be well worth it this weekend, might be there myself..

In reply to MattG:

cheers Matt, might see you around then!

In reply to MattG:
given the size of the current moon i,m surprised the lakeland dwellers aren,t on the way out as we type !

JAS

In reply to :

Does anyone know where we can get an online guide for any of the winter climbs around helvellyn or elsewhere.

Ive not done any winter climbs in the lakes so dont really know where to go. any suggesttions greatly appreciated.

In reply to spencer01:
basically locate tarn face and join the queues!
face goes almost anywhere at about grade 3 (except buttress) the gullies being quite obvious, the 2 ridges either side (striding and swirral) are grade 1 and just t'other side of striding edge (left side looking at crag) is nethermost gully grade 1 which is straight forward but may have a huge cornice at the minute.

on thirlmere side you have brown cove crags which will be busy also and offers a few climbs.

In reply to jas wood:

There are pics on here that show you where Gully 1 and 2 are on Red Tarn face.

In reply to spencer01: Try this link, it brings up the entire Lakes Winter guidebook! http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=mn6YlrugR_UC&pg=RA1-PA1884&lpg=R...

The most common places to start are Great End or the Helvellyn range. Tarn and Falcon crags (approach from Dunmail Raise, Thirlmere), Red Tarn (from Patterdale) and Brown Cove Crags (from Thirlmere) are all a good bet and in condition at the moment.

In reply to pec:

pec thanks for that - anyone know what the Bowfell Links area is like at the mo?

Lots of easier routes on here

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=654

In reply to jas wood: Any one know what the conditions on Hen crag are like? Thanks

In reply to jas wood: up round bow fell on thursday with the wife - cracking day. Took her up Sharpe Edge on Friday - her first winter experience!

and yes it was me who appeared on the BBC news 6:30 thur night :-/

In reply to jas wood: Condtions still great on Brown Cove Crag with ice building up low down on a few of the climbs making for a good start to routes. Very Very Windy today when topping out.

In reply to jas wood:

was out on Hutaple crag today, good conditions all round for mixed climbs, bomber turf and good neve, powder though in places, but not a great deal and any ice i noticed seemed a bit thin.

btw, has anyone climbed west hutaple gully before? as we climbed it today and found it stiff for the grade!

In reply to jas wood:

also noticed the chopper out in link cove. it was very low, could have actually landed quite high up, hope its nothing to serious!

In reply to jas wood:

Fantastic morning behind Scales Tarn on Blencathra. There are small icefalls in and the long gully to the summit, once you get in, goes currently at a very sound II with substantial ice and a good steep iron hard neve finish. Cracking outing and had the route to myself (apart from 2 folk who traversed off below the central ice pitch ice, and a pair starting off a long way below)

Lots of folk who need to buy crampons for the fuller experience


Oh and found half of a Grivel G14 that had snapped in half close to the summit end of Sharp Edge - must have given someone a bad moment

superb but short outing, but could have had more fun on the icefalls below with tech tools

In reply to Fatherof2:


What a good dad you are... Noticed you didn't mention your unique swimming stroke up skew gill.
Did you n Rog get out today? Was expecting to see you hacking up Brown Tongue on a mission
Unsurprisingly...Loads of activity on Scafell. Did Moss gill with the newly wed, back down deep gill, the 2nd ice fall on cascade n finally the variation finish on hole n corner...Top day out finishing off with the customary ale n much talking of good climbs.

In reply to grumsta:

already stated i,d done most routes on the face just didn,t think the climbing was very good !
jas

We did Falcon Crag Gully (II) today. Bomber neve, hard turf and a few bits of ice about.
Good conditions but not much in the way of gear/belays on this route. Are most of the routes on Tarn/Falcon crag on such shattered rock?

In reply to jas wood:
been out on my tod and went over to scafell via window gully on great end, people doing the classic gyhlls,pisgah buttress (i think) and a team on deep gyhll intergral. drifts of new snow about but on the whole good conditions i thought.
good day was had but i,m going to have to get a regular partner !
jas

In reply to jas wood: did Black crag ice fall was in pretty god nick

In reply to kristov:
you lucky buggeer !
i take it you enjoyed it ? was on my tod but if had partner was looking in that direction.
anyone looked at gully on dove ?

In reply to jas wood:

Yeah sorry I meant to reply to the guy before you, but you had already replied to him with a better answer :?

Had a fantastic day on Helvellyn yesterday - magic. Lots of lovely neve around - Swirall Edge was great.

In reply to grumsta:
i now think great end is even busier than helvellyn !
the snow is brilliant at the minute and glad you had a good day (looked like a decent cover from on scafell)
jas

In reply to jas wood:

We did Moss Gill on Scafell, it was in pretty good condition. Quite a few teams out: Botterill's Slab proving popular; Great Western also.

The riming made Deep Gill Buttress look absolutely spectacular. Ice forming nicely on Shamrock.

The Birketts are up there today, I believe, probably doing something mental.

Peter

In reply to jas wood:
Saturday had a cracking day on Chock Gully (Dollywagon)with Barney Woodhead. It is a route I've been waiting to do for a long time. Three good pitches, found it a bit lean in places but generaly in prity good condition. The crux pitch was interesting. Well worth the wait.

In reply to Derek Kenyon:

Well done, the moves around the chock stone are mean!

We did Left Branch of Central Gully on Great End. It was in excellent condition, the best I've ever seen. Right Branch was also in, but I've seen it in better condition in the past. We were the first party on the route, the number of people we could see gearing up below us was almost beyond belief.

Had a drive around to Newland Hause, but it wasn't in. Honister Pass is shut beyond the mines, so I couldn't drive by Honister to have a look, but I suspect some stuff may be in there.

We did Jack's Rake on Pavey this morning, there was some good ice, a few bits of snow, and the turf was frozen hard. Great route too. Needs a good freeze tonight though as some water was running by late morning.

There was an icefall on the left of the crag that looked in okay conditon but I don't know what route it was on.

In reply to jas wood: There's lots in beyond great end and helvellyn, where was everyone this weekend?!?!?!?!?!?!

Although Low Water Beck wasn't in, Percy's passage was and is a better climb than central or window gullies, careful of the new slab that will be building there tonight though

In reply to mark20: Hi, I think we met you in grasmere hostel last night? If it was you, thanks for not snoring!

In reply to MattG: Hen Crag Buttress. could have done with a bit more frozen snow on the heather ledges but a great day out all in all.

In reply to

Went to Scafell Saturday, tried Botterills, but the ice on the first pitch was 50/50 at best, ice over powder rippy and scary. Climbed on deep ghyll buttress instead. Lost a pair of crampons on the way down, late saturday, old style purple and black terminators, very battered and blunt, did anyone find them?

Had an easier day today, couple of 4's on dollywagon north. Its all good long may it last.

In reply to Oceanic:



Left branch, Great End Central, also provided a lovely moonlit ascent for us on Saturday night. It was nice not to queue!

Did Dollywagon gully yesterday solo,thought it was straight forward. Did Dollywagon Chimney today which was very thin and I would say IV,5. Then did Jogebar, which was in good nick and quite easy.

In reply to jas wood:

has anyone been one the girdle traverse of st sunday recentley?

In reply to Martin Haworth: I am delighted to hear you say that about Dollywaggon Chimney. We had a minor epic on it last night. Started on it quite late as we'd spent ages queueing in Dollywaggon gully. Reached the bottom of the narrow chimney just after sunset having scared ourselves on the thin mixed moves below. Finished the route by moonlight with head torches, topping out at 7.20pm, relieved to be safe and sound. Grade III is the hardest I've climbed, so nice to hear you thought IV,5!

anyone checked out raven crag gully in borrowdale? went up black crag icefall today which was in excellent condition. i reckon raven crag gully will be worth a look given the forecast for continued low freezing levels.

In reply to jas wood:

south east gully on great end was in lovely nick but the ice on the 3rd pitch was pretty hard for grade 3 and wasn't really protectable.

wicked route though - my god am i knackered now.

In reply to MattG:
Yeh that was us. It was a fairly snore-free night for a hostel dorm!

In reply to Martin Haworth: Was Jogebar quite fat? Anyone been on corvus this winter?

In reply to jas wood:
Just had a great w/e. Slept in car on Fri night, got up early Sat and did SE and Window gullies on Great End, as well as a micro route on a one pitch ice smear we found round the side of the buttress. Both gullies in good neve condition with some nice short ice pitches. Got up early again on Sun and did Dollywaggon gully. Third group up so managed to keep going at a reasonable pace but swarms of parties below us. Fantastic route, well worth its stars, and great ice in the top narrow section. Thanks to the Sheffield lads in front of us who set up an ice axe belay at the top as there was no other belay to be had. To top it all had to drive back through driving sleet and snow from about Manchester to Banbury, and back in time in Aylesbury to read the bedtime stories!

In reply to Oceanic:
Did Newlands this afternoon - Ice on main pitch good although as you can see from the road is flowing - not the best nick I've ever seen it but good fun!

In reply to robbo157:






soloed it a few weeks ago and where the ice was thin the turf underneath was bomber.

In reply to jas wood:
Had a great weekend. Did Inaccessible gully on saturday, phwooaar what a route! My mates first experience of lakes winter climbing (he's scottish) and what an introduction! It was certainly top end IV and we were the third team up it, it won't take too many ascents before it gets too chopped. I lead the first pitch and found it harder than anything on point 5, but with a few rests and some gear.

Had a steady day on Thresthawite gully today and barely saw anybody all day, nice route but conditions were suprisingly chossy!

NMM

In reply to Ian Black:

Amazed there was no-one else there !

In reply to mark20:

You were lucky then considering I was in the dorm! (I was one of the lads with Matt).

Great weekend for climbing in the Lakes though.

In reply to robbo157:





They were probably all on Helvelyn

In reply to Ian Black:


Or Great End

Folk should look outside the box............

In reply to Simon22:






Launchy gill might be in again.

In reply to Ian Black:


You have mail.

Did Left Branch on Pavey Ark on Saturday. OK conditions and some nice 30 foot vertical bits. All together a brilliant day, realy good. Good to climb with a great mate.

Hope the lads we met in the ODG had a good time on Bowfell.

Now getting ready for a trip to Chamonix

In reply to Oceanic:

I could have been the climber in front of you on Left Branch - also did Window Gully (loads of fat ice on both icefalls) and Right Branch of Central and then walked to Scafell.

The TOTAL MINGER who did a jobbie somewhere on the route should be named and shamed - reckon loads of climbers may have got bits of the stinking mess all over their gear etc. and not realised what is was as it somehow ended up peppered down the route. (Central Gully). Still nearly puke at the thought of it.

Mick

In reply to MattG:

Were you on Raven Crag Gully by any chance?

In reply to mick taylor:
thank god I chose thursday to be there

In reply to Nevis-the-cat:

Hi, we did indeed have a good time, was quite hard though, not much ice where it was needed and some turf not too helpful in the cracks!

Very good route though, start to the 4th pitch was errr interesting, involving a one arm lock off to a high foot step for the leader!

Seemed tough for a V anyway.

Did you try the new route?

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

It's only grade IV ;0)

How did you find the chockstone? We were the team in front of you, it was certainly harder than a IV, and indeed a different league to point 5.

Looking at your profile You're not from scunny originally are you?

In reply to jas wood:
We were up on Scrubby Crag (well technically immediately to the right of it) on Pendulum Gully. Fanastic traditional route, interest on every pitch, and just brilliant neve and ice from top to bottom. Also climbed the Link Cove Gills (RH) to get there.

Really surprised that there were so few people on it. I could see someone soloing it as we approached, and there was one pair in front who took the left branch. Other than that we had the route (and crag) to ourselves.

I'd heartily recommend it if someone fancies a quiet, quality day out. Don't miss out the funky little ice pitch about 100 metres lower than it at the very top of Link Cove Gill either.

In reply to darbinotley: I will second that one, we had a brilliant day on Saturday doing link cove gill RH then up into step gully?? which had seen a number of ascents and a lot of ice had been hacked out, was still very doable. A traverse up to the bomber neve on Scrubby and yet another great climb - lead to a fantastic 3 climb day.

In reply to Diccon:

That was us immediately behind you, you told me about a possible nut belay one pitch from the top. I used it (thanks) to allow the party behind to stop on the belay ledge below. Of course, the party behind kept climbing to where we were and surprise surprise there was nowhere else for them to belay. As I was leaving, the leader of the part behind them arrived...

In reply to Martin Haworth:

It was certainly a little 'interesting' for a III! We did it on Saturday to avoid the queues, the hardest thing I've done by a mile. I thought it a much better route than the gully, but part of that was probably just relief at still being in one piece at the end.

In reply to smithaldo:

It is a cracking route isn't it. One of the best winter routes I have ever done.

We reckoned the temperature was too warm and anyway, neither of us could be arsed to plod up there to what would no doubt turn out to be a sliver of pish and soggy turf.

Opted to pootle back and have a bacon sarnie at Devils Bridge.

Good to meet you guys.

John

In reply to mark20:

We did it yesterday as a nice easy 3 pitch route to finish the day. Turned out to be a nice hard 5 pitch grade 3! I think it was so hard/unprotected because conditions were actually very thin, if the turf and rock were covered with snow it would be a lot easier.

In reply to Toreador:
Falcon Crag Gully always seems hard and unprotected. I've done it twice - once solo and it was scary. Once roped and it was scary due to the lack of reliable belays.
Just a bit of a sandbag route - looks like nowt but fools you.
Both ascents made me think it rated minus stars if there were such a thing.....

In reply to Ross McGibbon:


I'm glad someone else found it hard!
I climbed it with Steve & Kat on Saturday, & we found it thin with little gear & shoddy belays. Altogether harder than grade II.

Conditions were much better on Great End on Friday, in Window Gully (which had a fine ice pitch) and South East Gully (which had two no-so-fine ice pitches.)

In reply to Toreador:
I,m glad other people found Dollywagon Gully hard, I thought I was going soft.
With regards to your comments on Falcon gully, I soloed it on the saturday and thought it was grade III.

In reply to Removed User: thanks for your riveting account of conditions...now I know why we felt a l'ile bit embattled this Jan wi't funny snow...

In reply to Ian Black: Jogebar was in excellent condition, plenty of ice. The ice falls just left looked climbable but we ran out of time.

In reply to jas wood:

So I'm guessing its worth a visit to the lakes in the next few days?

In reply to Martin Haworth:

You mean Dollywagon Chimney? The Gully was easy

In reply to Toreador: Sorry, Chimney was hard, Gully was easy.

In reply to Martin Haworth:






Its not a bad wee route. Done it a couple of times and never met a soul.

In reply to lewk_c:
most definately !
lots of good routes climbable if not in perfect nick.
jas

In reply to robbo157:

Hi,
you wonder why no one else bothered with Newlands Hause? I had a pretty good look @ it on Sunday afternoon - and I did not bother!

Parafinn

In reply to jas wood:

Decision has been made, heading up tomorrow for a few days!!!

Cheers.

In reply to Toreador:
Glad to be of some help. It was getting a bit mad and bunched up in that top section. Daft really as it was too narrow for people to pass and in such good nick it was worth savouring.
Diccon

In reply to Gary Baum:
I think we met you on the way up to Great End at about 6pm Sat night just as we were descending from doing SE/Window gullies. Must have been about eight of you and it was a fabulous moonlit night. Cracking idea to do Central gully at that time. How did you get on. Did you get back in time for your "chips and beer"?

In reply to jas wood:
Photo of Jogebar buttress on Sunday in my photos gallery, gives an idea of conditions.

In reply to Diccon: Yes it probably was us as we were the only (five) in the Gully that late. We did Central left hand - really enjoyed the short ice pitch - and made it back for chips in Keswick! A less successful night was had this evening, however, as we gave up on an attempt to locate Jogebar finding ourselves in near zilch visibility in cloud and darkness on Nethermost! Win some, lose some.

In reply to jas wood:

It was a stellar day today in the Lakes, almost alpine really with crampons balling up on the way down on sun-melted snow. Did Chock Gully today, which had a stiff but very well protected crux. The ice was meting out a bit, but with the freeze tonight should be good tomorrow. Very good fun. My mates did Inaccessible Gully on Dove, which they thought was mediocre really. They had a look at Grendel on Scrubby, but the E facing buttresses have been stripped by the morning sun.

On Saturday, we were with the melee on Scafell, quite icy in places and pretty reasonable conditions. We did Great Western, which turned out to be really good mixed route. My pals did Steep Ghyll Direct and Botterills, and found both interesting. One went off route on p2 of Botterills, and was forced to leap from the arete into a groove, with the prospect of a humungous pisser if his axes didn't stick. He still had a thousand yard stare in the pub later that evening!

In reply to smithaldo:

Ah, the chockstone, sheer joy at watching my mate do the honours of leading it! Sketch city to be honest, no real hooks under the chockstone made it quite exciting. The 'wide' bridging was certainly interesting! You chaps seemed to fly up that pitch fairly quickly.

I have a couple of photos, especially a good one of your mate leading, which I can email you if you like? Did you get any of us?

NMM

P.S. From Leeds originally, exiled to Grimsby before returning to the homeland!

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Photos would be great, I can forward them on as well, afraid we didnt get any of your guys as andreas had the camera and we couldnt see you at the top.

If you send an e-mail through this site I will reply back so you get my address.

Cheers

Phil

In reply to jas wood: Had a good walk today, then went over and soloed central gully left branch on Great end. The wee ice pitch above the Ampitheatre is quite nice and a wee bit thin on the left. Top day out with clear blue skies

In reply to Ian Black:
still quite cold then ian ?

In reply to jas wood:






Aye, but a wee bit milder than last week Jas. Still lots of snow on the approaches though.

In reply to Ian Black:

had the reported jobbie disappeared? Is it safe to go back?

In reply to Anonymous:





I had a look after reading the post on here. Not that I'm a Jobbie hunter, but fortunately never saw it. That said there was quite a bit of fresh powder on the route.

In reply to Ian Black:
thanks, that's good to know. I really can't believe people couldn't find something to deposit into that would localise the problem

In reply to jas wood: Just got back from a few days camping at the cic, sounds like i've missed all the fun in my back yard! Anybody any idea what nick bowfell buttress is in? Much ice, room for gear placements?

In reply to ntb:

no ice in any of the very steep little bits, i.e start chimney, cracks at start of third and fourth pitches so alot of room for gear, deffo winter nick although does not look like it from below.

turf well frozen, and the harder right hand finish was quality.

probably more powdery now though (did it on sunday)

In reply to jas wood:
Rained this morning, for the best really, it should fill in the holes dug out by the hordes and stabilise the powder.

Soloed central lh last night, very tracked out and still busy overnight!

In reply to smithaldo: Cheers for that, hoping to get on it on friday, weather reports are looking good for it

In reply to 3leggeddog:







It was surprisingly quiet by GE standards yesterday afternoon. Looked to be a party of 3 on window, and 1 party on each of RH and LH of central.

In reply to ntb:

Heading up to the Southern Lakes this weekend, can anyone give any info about the conditions in the Coniston area (Dow crag, Low water, Raven Tor) and around Crinkle Crags (Gladstone Knott + Crinkle Gill) routes up to grade III.

Thanks in advance

In reply to jas wood:
I think it was us on Window, two teams of two. One team did the normal route we did the ice fall variation, which was in superb condition. It seemed a bit stiff for grade III. I thought it used to be graded IV which would fit the conditions yesterday.

In reply to Root1:

Which icefall? The lower or the upper? The lower one did look a tad hard for 3.

MIck

In reply to jas wood:
The lower one out on the buttress. Steep at the bottom and tricky at he top.

In reply to mol:

just been up on conistion, was a bit dubious about conditions when i set off from car, but found lots of good ice above low water, and climbed Percys Passage. Which was around grade 3 i thought, ice was good, but snow was a bit soft, especially when pulling over the cornice. But the frost forecast for tonight should sort things out.

hope this helps,
bryan

In reply to SageStuffing:
anyone know if raven crag gully is holding in there ?
or would hazard a guess if it may be looking at getting across early doors if possible.
surely launchy isn,t complete yet! hasn,t been that cold has it ?

jas

In reply to jas wood: if you're off anywhere this weekend give us a shout

a north yorkshire climber.....

In reply to jas wood: I walked up past launchy a week ago and it was nowhere near in condition. I doubt it has been cold enough for long enough that low down since then to bring it in and it has been decidedly warm low down today. It also looks like the rain earlier has shifted a lot of the lower snow. My guess is that if we get the forecast frost tonight the name of the game will be to go higher for the refrozen snow and ice that will have been softened today.

In reply to mol: Not sure about Langdale, but Easy Gully and South Rake on Dow are almost continuous neve. Great Gully is full but the lower chock stone is still exposed. Low Water Crags have plenty of neve and ice is forming high up but Low Water Beck is not in. Had a peek at Wetherlam and it looks good from below, however I didn't actually get to climb on it so take that with a pinch of salt.

In reply to jas wood: Did black crag icefall today which was a little sketchy lower down but fantastic ice higher up. Grab it while its there, short walk in!!!

In reply to adamsky: yeah...adam...that was my pitch!...well sketchy and hollow ice low down....but excellent and intresting higher up...get there quick!

In reply to Marra Eh!: Sorry didn't see your reply before .... Roger called in sick, so just ended up on me todd soloing Jogebar and then had a look at dollywagon but by the time i got there the falling masonry put me off a solo. Then exellent time on central LH teusday night. Had the whole place to myself ! Maybe this weekend, but forecast not looking good ......

In reply to adamsky:

hi we met up up at Hart crag, did you do the corner up there or the fat
icefall to its right ? we had fun on some excellent ice on the left hand
side og the butress - who knows what we did 'Hart Crag Ice Falls ?' felt
about III to me

re black crag...must say from the soft snow and watching you guys starting
up it looked rubbish low down ou guy! and we didnt want to wait around but - so well done you.

much better snow on the walk out

In reply to lithos:
I think that might have been us. We got seduced by firm neve low down followed by a bit of swimming to get to the icefall. Icefall was better than it looked from below with about 25m of really steep sound ice. I'm not sure if it's referred to as Hart Crag icefalls in the guidebook.

In reply to Fatherof2:

hello, we were the 2 waiting at the bottom who chatted briefly while the rocks came down. Good call not to solo, even more came down a bit later when the first team up excavated an ice axe belay at the top!

In reply to jas wood: Did Black crag Icefall yesterday, as previous poster (think they must have followed us up)said thin lower down but excellent on 2nd pitch, well worth the trip. Then went off to Hart Crag to do Cold Lazarus, which looked in good nick but opted for a fat icefall some distance to the right. This provided an excellent Grade IV pitch on perfect ice. Well worth going over to, especially if you find the screamer that I dropped, which landed at the bottom of the pitch. I'd be grateful for its return.

Phil

Anyone been out today. Was there much new snow. Seemed quite warm out today are the conditions still good?

In reply to mattish2000: Ross McGibbon tells me he was on Central, One Pitch and Custs today and reports "spindrift down the neck, lots of new snow, wonderful stuff".

In reply to mattish2000:
did black crag icefall earlier today and the first pitch was passable ! and second pitch was brilliant and well worth the effort ! wasn,t really cold but seemed like a fair bit of snow coming in so i,d imagine high up will be getting a pasting ! few teams heading for dove (presumably inaccessible gully which might have been inaccessible ?)

kirkstone pass was closed on way out mind !

jas

Old neve not rock hard above Low Water (OMC) despite hard frost here last night. Extensive patches of new and windblown snow. Started to snow lightly after lunch and very windy on top. Only just freezing when back on Walna Scar Road.

In reply to mattish2000:
Shoulthwaite Gill was in pretty good nick today.

Was at Blea Water Crag today, a good hard frost last night was good, but by the time we left this afternoon the freezing level was above tarn level. Birkett's Gully is in (just), with running water at bottom requiring delicate climbing, however the upper half is thick with ice and spindrift - well over of a foot was deposited this afternoon. Blea Water Gill and Icefall is bomber, really good nick, with no running water.

In reply to Toreador: Did you manage ot get up it OK ? Hope you had a good day ! I'll just have to get up earlier next time ....... !

In reply to jas wood: Did moss ghyll yesterday. Snow was a little soft in places but good conditions other than the spindrift. Was warming up rapidly as the day went on (it was raining at the top). Long walk back to Seathwaite!!! Leo Houlding was also climbing Moss Gyhll. A lot of things washed away last night

In reply to adamsky: Anybody have any idea on the best stuff to get on in the Helvellyn range tomorrow? Can see the temps are rising, and a slow thaw is forecast. Wondered if East facing gullies will be getting dodgy with soft snow and wind blown deposits / softening cornice? Maybe Brown Cove Crags would be a good plan? At least could check out the top-outs for Sunday as well...

In reply to jas wood: Does anyone up in the lakes have any idea what cnditions on Great End are likely to be like? It was good last week but seems like it's rained since then and it may be crap now! Going up tonight and we need a plan...

In reply to Sankey:

I think if you get up early and go high to climb on east or north facing crags you may get something done tomorrow. Well, that's my plan.

In reply to Fatherof2:

Yes, didn't even have to queue for too long, apart from a bottleneck near the top.

Then moved on to Falcon Crag Gully, normally II, which turned out to be significantly harder than Dollywagon Gully

In reply to adamsky:
tis a trudge out that one did it last weekend :-}

In reply to Exile: sounds about right to me ! there seemed to be a fair amount of snow on eastern fells yesterday surely some must remain for a daft o clock start- hope you get sortred.
jas

In reply to jas wood: up at gable and green gable yesterday plenty of snow and frozen turf but as the day went on it started to rain if it has not got to warm then i would say if you go high you will find something to do as all the high cliffs had plenty of snow on them.

In reply to jas wood:

Car windscreen has been frozen every morning and this morning was frozen too hard to scrape till warmed slightly.

In reply to Anonymous:

But where do you live anon? Kent?

In reply to Anonymous:

put it like this, I can see the summit of High Raise from a point a few yards from home and Cross Fell from the gate!

In reply to Anonymous: It can be colder in the valley bottom, cold air falls, valley bottoms shaded from sun during day, gets sun later, loses it early etc. Not always the case, but I've seen low down stuff in condition and stuff higher up not, purely due to aspect and geography of the place.

Indeed, yesterday morning it was minus three in the Rusland valley and only zero above Coniston.

In reply to Jim Lancs:

Did Chock Gully today. on it's way out really, just enough to pull over the chock stone on, but great ice in the upper reaches. Great route though.

Jogebar was in fine nick today apparently. but temps hovering around zero on the tops so things are deteriorating rapidly. With an early start tomorrow you may just get a route in! (I'm going to have a rest!)

In reply to jas wood: Did dollywagon gully this afternoon.The perfect neve of the last couple of weeks is now very soft.The ice pitch was good though.It was mild on the fells and drizzle had come in as we topped out. I recon thats it for the lakes if no frost is forcast for the next few days.

In reply to andyc123:

some pictures of chock gully here. including the dreaded move around the crux chockstone

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/?category=2

In reply to andyc123: Agree with you on conditions they were going rapidly down hill yesterday whilst climbing Bowfell Butress. The snow was soft and water was running down the crag. It was quite warm, climbed most of it without gloves on! What an amazing route though.

In reply to mattish2000:






How was the slab above the wee crack, is it soft snow now? Conditions will be back very soon, fingers crossed.

In reply to jas wood:

After a 4.30am start from Kendal climbed Steep Ghyll on Scafell today. A dit drippy, snow going soft, but turf and ice still good, (we were actually snowed on while climbing!) Think that's it though, we were on the top at mid day just as it started to drizzling.

In reply to Exile: We did 4 routes today around Hart Crag, the ice was very good and the freezing level was at around 650m until 2pm ish. Black Crag icefall has had it, though there was someone on at at 4pm, big gaps though!

In reply to MattG:


Nice one mate. Did you do get some photos?

I did a route up their at the start of Jan but am not sure which one I did, all seemed a jumbled mess on the approach!

In reply to jas wood:
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