UKC

I've wanted to have a crack at Mont Blanc for years, but always seem to get let down when it comes to climbing partners. I've been let down again this year, so I'm starting early in my search for somebody else who's in the same boat.

I always wanted to do the trois mont traverse, but to be honest it's now getting to the point where I'd be grateful to have a go at the Gouter route.
Yes, I know that neither of those is a 'proper' climb, and that there are probably smaller mountains in the vicinity with much better routes on them, but I still want to do it, if for no other reason than I can brag about 'conquering the French Everest' loudly in the pub to non-climbing folk, captivating all those within earshot with stories of how I 'shook off a nasty case of HACE' and 'summitted in a -40 deg C whiteout'.

In reply to Altitude Addict:

tempting, i did it by the gouter route (solo) a few years ago but the trois mont traverse was what i had wated to do. so i might be up for it

In reply to Altitude Addict:
sounds awesome. is it do-able for a healthy average ability climber, who has never done any ice?

In reply to Altitude Addict:

The the trois mont traverse is a much more interesting way than the long plod up the Gouter. Have fun.

In reply to Altitude Addict: I'd love to have a go. What's the score, is it really difficult? Could I manage it with 4 years of climbing with a few 20-milers over snowdon, pen-y-fan amoung others?

It all depends on when your thinking of going. If you have any ideas of dates etc ill have a look and would most likely be up for it. Sounds like a plan stan!

In reply to Altitude Addict:

Same boat. Was planning the Tournette spur but my partner's got his missus pregnant.

Still keen to do the route or was thinking about the Nadelhorn / Lenzspitze traverse and Rimpfishorn etc.

Drop me a line if your interseted.

Glyn

In reply to JGF:

Forgot to say dates would be end of August / early September.

G

In reply to All:

This is a promising start

For those not very familar with the trois mont traverse, it begins at the Cosmique hut on the Col du Midi and takes in Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit then finally Mont Blanc.

The ascent usually takes 6-7 hours at a steady pace with minimal stops. The descent route from the summit is usually the Gouter, and takes about 4 hours from the summit to the Nid d'Aigle train station, from where we'd then catch the train back to Chamonix.

It's in season from early June right through to early September so that'd give us a lot of options in terms of fitting around other summer plans.
In terms of difficulty- technically it's only graded a PD, but there are some pretty steep sections of ice and neve as you ascend the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, and approaching the Col du Maudit towards the top of the north face of Mont Maudit is a 50 degree section which is apparently the crux of the whole route. Other than that, from what I've read it's a case of being able to maintain a steady pace at altitude for a prolonged period of time, so it comes down to fitness and stamina more than technical ability.

I was planning to head out there for a week, do a couple of training/acclimatisation peaks, get a couple of nights spent at altitude (in huts rather than bivvying) and then make an early start either 1 or 2 days before the flight home depending on feeling, weather etc.

There's some good info here including photos of the steeper sections:

http://www.summitpost.org/route/202778/mont-blanc-3-mounts-traversee.html
http://cosleyhouston.com/mont-blanc-traverse.htm

I don't want to mislead anybody so I should point out that I'm by no means experienced when it comes to winter climbing, having only ever tackled a few grade 2-3 routes and only using ice axe and crampons a few times.
This will be my first alps trip, but from reading into it and talking to people who've done it, I think it's more than realistic for a 1st trip to the alps, especially if the week before is spent on training/acclimatisation climbs and practicing.

Anybody who's still interested, send me an email and if we get a few of us I can cc everybody in and try to sort something out.

In reply to Altitude Addict:

You have mail.

In reply to Altitude Addict: Hi, my girlfriend and I were thinking about tackling Mt Blanc in September also. We both plan to do a week long Alpine Guides intro course and a few trips to Switzerland in between to gather confidence, so if you don't mind novices although keen, perhaps we could organise something.

We could touch base and if you're happy with our experience levels (we're not expecting babysitters to help but more a team like adventure), then we can go from there. Cheers Ian

In reply to Yarnie:

You have mail.

In reply to Altitude Addict:

It sounds interesting... I'm hoping to make my first trip to the Alps this summer. I had my eye on doing something like the pyb 10 day 'complete alpine climber' f/b a week or so based in Chamonix looking for partners to do F and PD- routes (per this thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=314847&v=1#x4648997).

Although the way it's going this year, I'm not altogether sure I can afford £1800 for a training course with pyb! Although some of my credit cards are trying to get out of the wallet at the very thought of it