UKC

Winter routes near Cadair Idris

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 JohnV 02 Feb 2009
What routes are there in southern snowdonia? I live in Tywyn so Cadair would be the closest likely place for any snow / ice I guess- what is there that can be done, and is there anything in condition now? I saw a long thin snow gully on the northern side of Cadair from the road yesterday which might have been ok.

Any info or direction greatly appreciated!

John
 MikeLell 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: Give the long thin snow gulley on the north side a go, think i might do that this week. Cyfwry Arete is a good II in winter conditions.

Mike
OP JohnV 02 Feb 2009
In reply to MikeLell:

Any idea when? I'm free from 3pm each day.

Anyone know any more about what is possible, or more about this gully?
 Mike Peacock 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: There's Maesglase Falls SH8214 which rarely come into condition.
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/57665

A few weeks back someone was also talking about the Nant y Graig-wen.
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/104394
 MikeLell 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: Possibly Wednesday. Do you live close to Cadair? Im in Aberystwyth. Give me an email if you want to discuss further. mikelelliott@hotmail.co.uk

M
 MikeLell 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: The 2 routes in the logbook on here are Barn Door (III 4 **) and One pitch gully (I/II *)
dogjogger 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV:hi think the gully you saw is one pitch gully
160m grade 1 /11.some good ice routes near dinas mawddwy,pistyll gwyn 3
craig wen 3 also maesglasau 4 200m.need a good cold spell for these to
be in nick.watch the weather and have fun out there,cheers simon
 Mark Kemball 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: I did Maesglasau Falls (sp?) back in 1985, which was superb (has anyone got a map ref for this so we can get it into the logbooks?). Also, West Gully Arete, Twr Du, Cader which was an interesting mixed route which I found desperate at the time!
dogjogger 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Mark Kemball:grid ref.828142 os sheet 124 dolgellau
 Neil Anderson 02 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: Trojan - Grade 5 - iconic ice climb on Cadair - see cold climbs - if it's in let us know please!

Also a number of routes on the Arans

Good list in back of Mid Wales guide by john Sumner.

There are also some crags in the Radnor hills ( warning miltary range) - dont know if ever done by army boys or not ?

Please post what you find/climb - lots of virgin climbs in this part I believe and not very well documented. Now we are finally getting real winters again time to explore...
 Tim Sparrow 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Neil Anderson: By Radnor hills do you mean Radnor Forest and Harley Dingle in particular?
I'd be surprised if there was anything to climb there .... though I have been to look at Water-break-its-neck in the past, but seemed reluctant to freeze at all and I have also seen a large full depth slab avalanche above Harley Dingle.
If you don't mean Radnor Forest, then where, ther isn much steep 'ills 'earabowts like! Mind you there is more than a "skith" of snow here and it will be right "slike" tomorrow!
 Tim Sparrow 02 Feb 2009
In reply to Tim Sparrow: And Trojan will need a longer bit of cold than this to bring it in, together with some seepage and a bit of snow to liven it up a bit. Here's to dreams! I waited over 20 years for it!
 Neil Anderson 03 Feb 2009
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

I did mean Radnor Forest and Harley dingle in particular (great creigiau.). I wondered if there would be some short technical routes or easy low grade short gullies on the outcrops? Of course if it's frozen/snowed up this low down, I do wonder about getting there....

Have you ever checked out Fron rocks SO188768 or Llandegley Rocks SO131618
OP JohnV 04 Feb 2009
Went up after work yesterday and did the obvious gully to the right of the Cyfrwy Arete, 703134. Powder over scree, and ice step, snow then a large and difficult rock step, more snow and a couple more steps then the top- is this One Pitch Gully?

This is not the long thin snow line I could see from the road, as this extended down from the neve on top and was no where near as deep a cleft as the gully yesterday.
 Tim Sparrow 04 Feb 2009
In reply to JohnV: Sounds like One Step - remember going up it with a dog, which was put in rucksack and hauled up the step. Loads of loose scree made it a tad serious..... for those below the dog mainly as he refused to call "below". Needed training properly.
 Tim Sparrow 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Neil Anderson: I have indeed played around on Llandegley Rocks - a strange experience, not unlike climbing even! The rock is somewhat brittle (very weathered volcanic.) Not tried Fron Rocks but suspect more of the same (though sediments I believe).
Neither would be winter venues, so wrong forum!
I wonder if Great Creigiau would be like N Face of PenyFan .... but west facing and lower!
 Ian McNeill 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Tim Sparrow:
agreed that sound like it - big wall to right side as you ascend?

Tim,

where are you now based ?

have you been back to Kaz at all ?

 Tim Sparrow 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian McNeill: Just outside Rhayader. I haunt the Elan Valley these days!
Did go back to Kaz in 97, Taj in 06 ... must call in to your kite shop before too long, I do head N wards occasionally!
Tim
 Ian McNeill 04 Feb 2009
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

closed that down Sept '07 > just B4 it all went Pear shaped..

I now work from home see my profile ... and climb8.com

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