UKC

Best Verdon guidebook

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 Enty 05 Feb 2009
I haven't climbed there since 1986 so what's the best guide around at the moment?

Interested in the old classics - stuff around the Carelle and maybe La Demande.

Cheers

Enty
 ghisino 05 Feb 2009
In reply to Enty:

there's basically only one guidebook...they made the new edition lately and some people like it some don't...it is made with pictures of the huge wall instead of drawings, and some people find the pics confusing...

still it's worth getting it because it mentions all the exact rappel lenghts, in all the possible combinations...

then there's this topo made by those who sell online pdf topos. Think you can easily emule it (?forgot the name?)

very practical for bringing in your pocket while climbing but very very poor in information, you need to fill in your a4 sheet with additional notes...taken from the good topo!!!

anyway, the bar at la palud always have a topo (maybe not the most updated edition) you can look at : in desperate cases, you copy the stuff you are interested in by hand..
and you should be able to buy a new-edition one on the spot.
 tom f 06 Feb 2009
In reply to ghisino:
off topic i know but, i was in verdon last summer and will be again this year, and went down the gorge at the end with the low bridge if that makes sense. saw some folks doing some sport in what i can only describe as a huge cave. is most of the climbing in the area actually in the gorge? and by chance do you know of any bouldering in the area.

sorry for all the daft questions!
In reply to Enty:

I'm interested in the answer to this too as I'm angling for a visit later this year.

I recently got (cheap) the 1988 'Rock climbs in the Verdon' by Rick Newcombe - that certainly has some routes in those area. Any views on how useful this book is relative to the presumably larger definitive guide?

Steve
 GrahamD 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Enty:

The definitive Grimpeur au Verdon is not to Rockfax standard layout but it is useable and the grades seem fine for the stuff we did (including La Demande).
 OllieR 06 Feb 2009
Enty, I have the latest guide (2006 version)- I will drop it in next time I pass.

Tom f: For bouldering Annot is not far away and brilliant.

Ollie
Oioic Citsojb 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Ollie:

A group of us are staying near Forcalquier between Verdon and your neck of the woods at Buis les Baronnies. We're intending to do some sport, range from 5+ to 6c. I just need to sort out guide book(s)for the area. Any reccomendations?

Cheers

Oioic
 Moacs 06 Feb 2009
In reply to Enty:

I've got a "Verdon Le topo guide des escalades" ( Patrick bestagno et al) - it has no ISBN unfortunately but seemed comprehensive when we were there (2 trips albeit a long time ago now). There are line drawings with individual pitch grades. Most of the low to mid grade climbs will be in there. It wasn't fantastically easy to work out what was what, but ok if you ask a few people to get oriented.

J
 OllieR 06 Feb 2009
Oioic, sorry to say that I don't know of a guide book to that general area. I'm sure there are a few local topos for individual crags and scraps of paper floating about (in true French style), but nothing comprehensive.

Volx is close to Forcalquier but all quite hard. Orgon is not too far away and has a good mix (if a bit polished). Other than that head to the Verdon, Buoux or Buis areas for a longer day trip.

Come on Rockfax - sort it out!

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