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Ian Vickers has climbed Going Down (F8c+) at Craig y Longridge in Lancashire. This huge right to left traverse is thought to have been unrepeated since Neil Carson's first ascent several years ago.
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/#n45948
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/#n45948
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Good effort!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Effort!
Maybe the ultimate tick is a cider assisted 'descent'.
Effort!
Maybe the ultimate tick is a cider assisted 'descent'.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
What happened to Neil Carson??
> Ian Vickers has climbed Going Down (F8c+) at Craig y Longridge in Lancashire. This huge right to left traverse is thought to have been unrepeated since Neil Carson's first ascent several years ago.
>
> Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/#n45948
>
> Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/#n45948
What happened to Neil Carson??
In reply to andrew300169:
He moved to France years ago. Not sure if he still climbs....
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> What happened to Neil Carson??
> [...]
>
> What happened to Neil Carson??
He moved to France years ago. Not sure if he still climbs....
In reply to Adam Lincoln: I was flicking through old OTE's the other day and there was pic of him looking very happy with his tiny baby. He doesn't seemed to have done anything in the public eye since. Interesting how some people get to such a superb standard and then just seem to stop.
In reply to TobyA:
I always wondered what happened to Fliss Butler and Simon Nadin too - I saw them in some Horizon special about rock climbing and it was one of the reasons I later started climbing myself.
I always wondered what happened to Fliss Butler and Simon Nadin too - I saw them in some Horizon special about rock climbing and it was one of the reasons I later started climbing myself.
In reply to niggle:
I thought Ian had already done this. At least I was told he linked the full left to right and back again.
Is this an eliminate of the full right to left traverse?
I thought Ian had already done this. At least I was told he linked the full left to right and back again.
Is this an eliminate of the full right to left traverse?
In reply to TobyA: Interesting how some people get to such a superb standard and then just seem to stop.
Read the final chapter last night of Revelations where Moffat addresses just this.
Read the final chapter last night of Revelations where Moffat addresses just this.
In reply to snoop6060:
No eliminate really - the normall full traverse moves up high for a significant section before (or after depending which way you're going) Bend the Rainbow - Going Down avoids this 'easy' escape by staying low(ish). Interesting that it goes right to left with the hard section early on, I guess the left to right might be worth a harder grade since even the likes of Vickers might be a bit pumped when they get to the crux.
> (In reply to niggle)
>
> I thought Ian had already done this. At least I was told he linked the full left to right and back again.
>
> Is this an eliminate of the full right to left traverse?
>
> I thought Ian had already done this. At least I was told he linked the full left to right and back again.
>
> Is this an eliminate of the full right to left traverse?
No eliminate really - the normall full traverse moves up high for a significant section before (or after depending which way you're going) Bend the Rainbow - Going Down avoids this 'easy' escape by staying low(ish). Interesting that it goes right to left with the hard section early on, I guess the left to right might be worth a harder grade since even the likes of Vickers might be a bit pumped when they get to the crux.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I watch Ian at BUK and he is leagues better than anyone else I have seen, particularly when it is something like a sustained traverse. He does not seem to court publicity and just climbs because thats what he does. Just how good is he in the scheme of things. You get the Greshams, macleods Maclures who your always hearing of but if Ian did an E12 I could imagine him not bothering to tell anyone he`s so laid back. Is he up there with that gang?
I watch Ian at BUK and he is leagues better than anyone else I have seen, particularly when it is something like a sustained traverse. He does not seem to court publicity and just climbs because thats what he does. Just how good is he in the scheme of things. You get the Greshams, macleods Maclures who your always hearing of but if Ian did an E12 I could imagine him not bothering to tell anyone he`s so laid back. Is he up there with that gang?
In reply to niggle: Nadin is still climbing I think - I remember an article in the last few years of an expedition in Chile that he was on - with Houlding maybe? And its some time back now but didn't he second Lynn Hill when she did the Nose Free IAD?
Butler had kids IIRC from my OTE reading, I guess she never got back into climbing at such a high standard afterwards.
Butler had kids IIRC from my OTE reading, I guess she never got back into climbing at such a high standard afterwards.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Friend climbed with him in Font last year; seen enjoying some easy circuits with the family
Friend climbed with him in Font last year; seen enjoying some easy circuits with the family
In reply to J1234:
No, he is better.
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> You get the Greshams, macleods who your always hearing of Is he up there with that gang?
> You get the Greshams, macleods who your always hearing of Is he up there with that gang?
No, he is better.
In reply to TobyA:
Other priorities?
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) I was flicking through old OTE's the other day and there was pic of him looking very happy with his tiny baby. He doesn't seemed to have done anything in the public eye since. Interesting how some people get to such a superb standard and then just seem to stop.
Other priorities?
In reply to martin heywood:
Why do you say that? They are all great climbers. Gresham and Macleod are fantastic all rounders. Mclure and Vickers are both great on sight climbers. Why can they not be all grouped together?
> (In reply to bedspring)
> [...]
>
>
>
> No, he is better.
> [...]
>
>
>
> No, he is better.
Why do you say that? They are all great climbers. Gresham and Macleod are fantastic all rounders. Mclure and Vickers are both great on sight climbers. Why can they not be all grouped together?
In reply to Ian Patterson:
Or the reverse is rock hard
Or the reverse is rock hard
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
It's good to hear about such a fine climber's impressive achievements after a prolonged period of absence from the limelight. I met him very briefly once in Sheffield at the Foundry during a round of the British Indoor Championships. I was helping with some research taking body measurements from elite and other rock climbers. He was a quiet chap and I doubt whether he ever went well out of his way to court media attention. I remember the buzz he left around this part of the world after a climbing trip. Around Arapiles campfires he was well regarded in the mid nineties, by people of no mean ability themselves, as possibly the leading on sight climber in the world at that time. I wouldn't like to claim I know whether that was true but suffice it to say he impressed many people and I think a large part of that was the understated way in which he went about it.
We spent a little time with many leading climbers at that competition. Chatting while we attempted with some difficulty to get skinfold measurements to quantify the degree to which surprise surprise many of the best climbers aren't fat!!! Well that was just part of it. I'd like to say that my impression of most of the characters we met was that climbers, professional or otherwise are pretty nice people. You might not believe this reading some of the petty ill humoured messages that get posted on here.
Peace, Karl
Hey my boys 2 years old today!!! Hip Hip Hooray! Hip Hip Hooray! Hip Hip Hooray!
It's good to hear about such a fine climber's impressive achievements after a prolonged period of absence from the limelight. I met him very briefly once in Sheffield at the Foundry during a round of the British Indoor Championships. I was helping with some research taking body measurements from elite and other rock climbers. He was a quiet chap and I doubt whether he ever went well out of his way to court media attention. I remember the buzz he left around this part of the world after a climbing trip. Around Arapiles campfires he was well regarded in the mid nineties, by people of no mean ability themselves, as possibly the leading on sight climber in the world at that time. I wouldn't like to claim I know whether that was true but suffice it to say he impressed many people and I think a large part of that was the understated way in which he went about it.
We spent a little time with many leading climbers at that competition. Chatting while we attempted with some difficulty to get skinfold measurements to quantify the degree to which surprise surprise many of the best climbers aren't fat!!! Well that was just part of it. I'd like to say that my impression of most of the characters we met was that climbers, professional or otherwise are pretty nice people. You might not believe this reading some of the petty ill humoured messages that get posted on here.
Peace, Karl
Hey my boys 2 years old today!!! Hip Hip Hooray! Hip Hip Hooray! Hip Hip Hooray!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Wasn't Tony Mitchell the first to traverse the whole crag back in the late 80's early 90's?
I can't remember the details but wasn't it left to right and graded 8b+ ?
The Ent
Wasn't Tony Mitchell the first to traverse the whole crag back in the late 80's early 90's?
I can't remember the details but wasn't it left to right and graded 8b+ ?
The Ent
In reply to Enty: I believe that was Dave (Banana Fingers) Kenyon, and that was the higher line of least resistance. The likes of Tony Mitchell, Mick Lovatt etc used it as training for the proper stuff at Malham (I've seen him do the full traverse as a warm up!).
I don't know the full facts but I'm guessing Neil Carsons traverse is right to left but staying much lower, taking in the line of most resistance!
I don't know the full facts but I'm guessing Neil Carsons traverse is right to left but staying much lower, taking in the line of most resistance!
In reply to Mini:
I knew Dave was a local guru but I'm positive Tony took the spoils for the full trverse - I remember it was quite big news at the time. 8b+ or even 8C
The Ent
I knew Dave was a local guru but I'm positive Tony took the spoils for the full trverse - I remember it was quite big news at the time. 8b+ or even 8C
The Ent
In reply to Tyler:
The full traverse was first done by Kenyon.
Also TPM despite having made it to the 'resting' groove of New Stone Age has still to do the full traverse.
The full traverse was first done by Kenyon.
Also TPM despite having made it to the 'resting' groove of New Stone Age has still to do the full traverse.
In reply to craig d:
Fair enough,not denying Mclure's pedigree.
Just meant really that when you watch Vickers he is clearly world class, not something I would say about any other British climber (we are of course all entitled to our opinions )
> (In reply to martin heywood)
> [...]
>
> Why do you say that? They are all great climbers. Gresham and Macleod are fantastic all rounders. Mclure and Vickers are both great on sight climbers. Why can they not be all grouped together?
> [...]
>
> Why do you say that? They are all great climbers. Gresham and Macleod are fantastic all rounders. Mclure and Vickers are both great on sight climbers. Why can they not be all grouped together?
Fair enough,not denying Mclure's pedigree.
Just meant really that when you watch Vickers he is clearly world class, not something I would say about any other British climber (we are of course all entitled to our opinions )
In reply to martin heywood:
I've known Ian for a long time but he's not in the same class as McClure, I'm sure he could have been, but at the end of the day Steve's onsighted harder and redpointed harder.
> (In reply to craig d)
> [...]
>
>
> Fair enough,not denying Mclure's pedigree.
> Just meant really that when you watch Vickers he is clearly world class, not something I would say about any other British climber (we are of course all entitled to our opinions )
> [...]
>
>
> Fair enough,not denying Mclure's pedigree.
> Just meant really that when you watch Vickers he is clearly world class, not something I would say about any other British climber (we are of course all entitled to our opinions )
I've known Ian for a long time but he's not in the same class as McClure, I'm sure he could have been, but at the end of the day Steve's onsighted harder and redpointed harder.
In reply to martin heywood:
Grades + style.
I think you are batting on a losing wicket here. What was it Gullich said -cards on the table what have these guys actually done ?. Vickers hasnt made the most of his huge potential. His choice. He's still an amazing climber.
Grades + style.
I think you are batting on a losing wicket here. What was it Gullich said -cards on the table what have these guys actually done ?. Vickers hasnt made the most of his huge potential. His choice. He's still an amazing climber.
In reply to Simon Lee:
For style Vickers takes it hands down (imho)
By the way, the last thing I wanted to do was put down Mclure's achievements.
(neither did I have any intention of playing cricket with you
> (In reply to martin heywood)
>
> Grades + style.
>
> I think you are batting on a losing wicket here. What was it Gullich said -cards on the table what have these guys actually done ?. Vickers hasnt made the most of his huge potential. His choice. He's still an amazing climber.
>
> Grades + style.
>
> I think you are batting on a losing wicket here. What was it Gullich said -cards on the table what have these guys actually done ?. Vickers hasnt made the most of his huge potential. His choice. He's still an amazing climber.
For style Vickers takes it hands down (imho)
By the way, the last thing I wanted to do was put down Mclure's achievements.
(neither did I have any intention of playing cricket with you
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to martin heywood)
>
> Grades + style.
>
This needs to be further quantified as climbing style, not sartorial style, because in the latter neither are anywhere near world class.>
> Grades + style.
>
In reply to Serpico:
Not quite world class humour either, but not bad.
> (In reply to Simon Lee)
> [...]
> This needs to be further quantified as climbing style, not sartorial style, because in the latter neither are anywhere near world class.
> [...]
> This needs to be further quantified as climbing style, not sartorial style, because in the latter neither are anywhere near world class.
Not quite world class humour either, but not bad.
In reply to martin heywood:
Grades + Style + Year.....
Obviously it could be taken that i am a bit biased to Ian as he is a great friend of mine, but i always think it is hard to compare climbers that essentially operated in a differant era.
When Ian climbed in the Uk on a regular basis he was in a league of his own. At the time his RP of True North was probably the fastest ascent of an 8c in the world. He on sighted 8b in Europe and the UK. He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this. In his good trad year he os around 14 E7's in a time before people realy thought it was possible.
After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
I am not biased though every great climber in the UK has his place, like Jerry and Ben before Ian, and now Steve Mac who is the best sport climber in the Uk at this moment. They have all been simply world class in their time.
Gaz
Grades + Style + Year.....
Obviously it could be taken that i am a bit biased to Ian as he is a great friend of mine, but i always think it is hard to compare climbers that essentially operated in a differant era.
When Ian climbed in the Uk on a regular basis he was in a league of his own. At the time his RP of True North was probably the fastest ascent of an 8c in the world. He on sighted 8b in Europe and the UK. He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this. In his good trad year he os around 14 E7's in a time before people realy thought it was possible.
After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
I am not biased though every great climber in the UK has his place, like Jerry and Ben before Ian, and now Steve Mac who is the best sport climber in the Uk at this moment. They have all been simply world class in their time.
Gaz
In reply to Anonymous:
I have no argument with any of your comments.
(Did not mention Moon Moffat or Mclure in my first post)
> (In reply to martin heywood)
>
> Grades + Style + Year.....
>
> Obviously it could be taken that i am a bit biased to Ian as he is a great friend of mine, but i always think it is hard to compare climbers that essentially operated in a differant era.
>
> When Ian climbed in the Uk on a regular basis he was in a league of his own. At the time his RP of True North was probably the fastest ascent of an 8c in the world. He on sighted 8b in Europe and the UK. He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this. In his good trad year he os around 14 E7's in a time before people realy thought it was possible.
>
> After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
>
> I am not biased though every great climber in the UK has his place, like Jerry and Ben before Ian, and now Steve Mac who is the best sport climber in the Uk at this moment. They have all been simply world class in their time.
>
> Gaz
>
> Grades + Style + Year.....
>
> Obviously it could be taken that i am a bit biased to Ian as he is a great friend of mine, but i always think it is hard to compare climbers that essentially operated in a differant era.
>
> When Ian climbed in the Uk on a regular basis he was in a league of his own. At the time his RP of True North was probably the fastest ascent of an 8c in the world. He on sighted 8b in Europe and the UK. He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this. In his good trad year he os around 14 E7's in a time before people realy thought it was possible.
>
> After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
>
> I am not biased though every great climber in the UK has his place, like Jerry and Ben before Ian, and now Steve Mac who is the best sport climber in the Uk at this moment. They have all been simply world class in their time.
>
> Gaz
I have no argument with any of your comments.
(Did not mention Moon Moffat or Mclure in my first post)
In reply to Anonymous:
That is the best line i've seen for ages! Thanks Gaz.
> (In reply to martin heywood)
>
>
>
>
>
> After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
>
> Gaz
> After winning the Euros Ian essentially retired and only now on sights 8a and 8a+.
>
> Gaz
That is the best line i've seen for ages! Thanks Gaz.
In reply to Anonymous:
Hi Gaz
He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this.
Simon Nadin was World Champion over the whole series in 1989 and won a number of the world cup rounds. As did Jerry Moffatt. They were also up against the very best at the time Edlinger, Glowaz, Raboutoo, Jibe, etc etc.
Not knocking Ian but just giving credit where credit is due.
Squawk
Hi Gaz
He was European Champion, no other uk climber has ever come close to this.
Simon Nadin was World Champion over the whole series in 1989 and won a number of the world cup rounds. As did Jerry Moffatt. They were also up against the very best at the time Edlinger, Glowaz, Raboutoo, Jibe, etc etc.
Not knocking Ian but just giving credit where credit is due.
Squawk
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