UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Well done to Greg.
Those holds look tiny!
James

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
No video I assume?

James

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: So how many moves has greg made in the picture? One to go?

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"... it's at least English 6c."

Not unsurprisingly? Thought it would be somewhat more - vertical technical wall

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I think he maybe taking the piss a little. It's just damn hard.

In reply to Bulls Crack: Sounds like Greg has found an easier way (for him) to do it. Dynos are hard to grade though.

In reply to Richard Bradley:

How the hell do you work that out? You'd have to get inside and be Gaskins and Chapman to find out.

It's hard, damn hard.

Hope Greg gets the sit down that looks weally weally hard, nails in fact.

Lovely place.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

haha ive got a friend called Greg Chapman! too bad he cant climb...

good effort on those tiny holds!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So a beefy tech grade may well be in order.

Extend that tech grade!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Sick. I was wondering when the Gaskins problems would finally get sent.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

News story doesn't actually say where it is, unless I'm going barmy.

In reply to Martin76: fairysteps

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nice one Greg, you dirty westy!

In reply to Martin76:

Barmy.

Fairy Steps.

Guide here: http://lakesbloc.co.uk/45.html

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

There are plenty of clues in the story Mick.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Cheers! I'm sure you sneaked in an edit there...I can't be that blind.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Hmm. I'm obviously no boulderer. From where I'm sitting it looks as if you could just run at the wall, jump up on smears and stick the good holds. In fact I would imagine that someone tall could just jump.

Am I missing something?

Ben

In reply to Ben Darvill:



Slightly.

In reply to Ben Darvill: Yes, have you ever tried to do that?

In reply to Ben Darvill:

Obviously your aren't....

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Which is/are the start holds on the standing start? Match on 3 on the sit start diagram?

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Stand up is holds 4 and 5 to 6 then top out: which may give you an idication of how hard that one move is.

"I had to use a different sequence to John's original high step method - I could get my foot up, but couldn't move. My sequence dyno's (thanks to Chris Davies for sewing that seed) the move from the crozzley “crumpet” hold (left hand), a small two finger crimp (right hand) and goodish but inconveniently placed/angled foothold."

Sit Start: the proposed V15/Font 8C, start with holds 1 and 2.

In reply to Richard Bradley:

4, or 4 and 5 or whatever combination.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: So a one move V13? Must be a shit hard move!

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Yer not wrong.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I was thinking almost the same...could be a "swing" start possible? (I mean starting hold, one foot hold, swing arm and jump with the other foot on the ground)

sometimes there are fierce debates around the topic if one particular problem was opened with the swing, or static. (I personally consider a forbidden swing start as an eliminant, or game)

Seems obvious that in this case, there was no swing an that...well, the SDS version solvers the debate

In reply to ghisino:

Tut, tut, we're not at Bas Cuvier! No French starts please.

In reply people suggesting it could be jumped.

Greg is tall, and that photo makes the problem appear shorter than it is. No chance of running at it and jumping. And well, if your even suggesting it.....!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
How tall is Greg?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Very restrained of you Adam.

Maturing?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Getting old i think. I am worrying myself. I am typing replies nowadays, and then never bother to click submit

In reply to james oswald:

8ft 6" . So the problem does look smaller than it is . . .

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Rubbish. Russ Walling could do it and he's nowhere near as tall as Greg

Enty

In reply to teddy:

In reply to Enty:

Who?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Ask Mick Ryan. The Fish is a legend.

Enty