UKC

DMM, named after Denny Moorhouse, has been busy making climbing hardwear since 1981. DMM started life in a small barn in Bethesda, near the slate quarries of North Wales. Now their factory is in Llanberis and DMM employ 130 people, making them the second largest employer in the local area.

The bread and butter of DMM's climbing hardware business is the carabiner - the simple snap link. This essential tool in the climber's rack can be taken for granted, but despite its simple appearance, hundreds of hours of design and work go in to each model.

The process involved in making a modern carabiner is detailed in this editorial video.

WATCH THE VIDEO: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1336

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

My net connection isn't fast enough to watch video, but in the shots the factory looks very old fashioned. In these days of kit being outsourced to China I find that very reassuring.

In reply to Duncan_S: Press play, then pause straight away. Allow it to "buffer up" and load fully, then press play again. You should be able to watch it then.
Quite interesting actually. I had no idea they put the carabiners in a giant vibrating machine, to get rid of the sharp edges!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Very interesting video - I don't think I'll try knocking my own karabiners up after seeing that! Makes you realise what good value they are.

Didn't much like the look of the guy putting his hand in the machine that trims off the excess metal though!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:
That explains all the no handed people in and around llanberis!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

On a more serious note - I'm deeply impressed! How can I buy a Spectre wiregate for £7?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

'course, in the old days, Jimmy Jewel and Paul Williams used to bend the 11mm bar stock around their bare hands. Paul's hands were bigger than Jim's, so obviously he got to do the screwgates.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Big up to the anodising process in Bury, Lancashire!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

what are the green circular things?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Interesting and gives me confidence in my first choice of krabs.

One observation that I am sure the metalagists with more knowledge than me will be able to answer.......... in the quenching process the krabs were racked up. The ones on the outside will receive a more rapid cooling than the ones on the inside. Does this make a difference? Or is the rate of coolong sufficeint for them all?

We didnt see any evidence of FEA? Looking at the actual krabs I presume FEA has been used. If not they are designed by a person who understands effecient structures.........

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: JWB, im guessing there wasnt any FEA shown as the video was more about the manufacture of the krabs rather than their design.

In reply to JWB:

JWB,

We do use FEA, but it tends to be more an indicator of end properties rather than anything concrete. We can't show all our techniques + processes in an open environment

The biners are racked on the L-shaped trees when quenched so that they all cool at the same rate. The quenching tanks are temperature controlled and use air circulation to ensure that we maintain a high degree of consistency in and between batches.

I hope that clears thing up.

Regards

Simon Marsh

DMM

In reply to Merlin:

Merlin,

They are a specialist harness connector for the arborist market.

Regards

Simon

DMM

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: A big thankyou to DMM and UKclimbing.com into this unique and interesting look into the manufacturing of climbing equipment. I hope DMM keep up the good work in wales and I hope people buy British when getting kit. The vidio may stop people saying how expencive outdoor equipment is when you understand how much effort goes into the design and testing of climbing equipment, clothing boots, tent ect.