UKC

NEW ARTICLE: Winter Climbing with 'Rad'

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 Jack Geldard 17 Feb 2009
'Rad' Butts and Creagan Beaulay are two British climbers who describe themselves as 'riding the wind.'

Here, Creagan looks back to the time he first met Rad and reflects on his first outdoor climb, a winter route in the northern Cairngorms...

We have another article featuring Rad and Creagan due to be published later in the week. The second article follows them as they progress through the grades very quickly, culminating in the first winter ascent of a summer E7, Aphrodite, on the Shelter Stone crag in the Cairngorms...

Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1644
 Ian Parnell 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Good effort Rad and Creag' Aphrodite was perhaps THE last great winter problem. You ticked it just in time the international meet is next week and there probably would have been queues of visiting wads hoping to try their "M-style skills" on that one.
OP Jack Geldard 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell: It is certainly an adventurous outing - their article is edge of the seat stuff.

Wouldn't want you to blow your true onsight though Ian.

Jack
 ayuplass 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

oh my goodness, I sure hope my first foray into winter climbing isn't as hardcore as this. Theres no way my mum will let me go if she reads this.
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:
> Good effort Rad and Creag' Aphrodite was perhaps THE last great winter problem.....

Is is just me, or does anyone else reel at the thought of such an immaculate piece of rock as Aphrodite covered in crampon scratches?

I don't pretend to be a winter climber or to understand what makes winter climbers tick, but I have experienced such damage first hand (Snicker Snack on Gable Crag) and I honestly thought it looked terrible.

I know this argument has been done to death in the past, but as standards increase and the cutting edge climbers venture onto blanker rock - previously only the preserve of high standard rock climbs - then I for one feel pretty troubled. The Shelter Stone slabs are unique in Britain. Nowhere else have I encountered such continuous, blank, clean rock in the mountains - and it deserves to be preserved and cherished.

To think we used to moan about chalk....

Neil
 Tall Clare 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

fantastic - I like it!
 Ian Parnell 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Neil Foster: Neil worth re-reading the article again from its tone, I think Rad and windup are using the new Camp stealth crampons made of sticky rubber which minimizes scratches. The turf is so thick (3 to 4 feet) on Aphrodite that they probably still used normal axes though
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Great! Just like Lost and Desperate Housewives - we're left with having to wait for the next installment as UKC forums doesn't have the E4 facility to watch the next one a week early!

Good article!
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:

…sound of has-been climber descending from high horse, resolving to engage brain before keyboard and reminding himself to always, but always, read the bloody article first…

(bastards)
 Ian Parnell 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Neil Foster: Mind you Neil perhaps its not a bad idea after all. Imagine being strung out on that slab, crampon points barely biting into the verglass, hmm?...

On the other hand the summer fall must be horrific let alone with axe and crampons to impale yourself with!
 French Erick 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:
An alternative plan to impaling yourself would be to climb with a dalstein suit, gloves, hat and balaclava. Perhaps one could also stick the woolly business to the shafts of axes and boots. Surely with all that extra texture one could crawl up the climb... it's only a slab after all!!! even better if verglassed as it would bond well with the wool fabric.
 Astral Highway 17 Feb 2009
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) Great! Just like Lost and Desperate Housewives - we're left with having to wait for the next installment...
>
> Good article!

Glad you liked it!
Sam L 17 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Good, enjoyed that!
 Astral Highway 18 Feb 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:
> (In reply to Neil Foster) I think Rad and windup are using the new Camp stealth crampons made of sticky rubber which minimizes scratches. The turf is so thick (3 to 4 feet) on Aphrodite that they probably still used normal axes though


Ian, I don't know if you can corroborate this, but I'd heard the guys are always on the lookout for influences outside the sport and at one point abandoned conventional crampons. Instead, they ordered bespoke foot-plate technology using enlarged versions of the Nokian and Schwalbe off-road mountain bike tire, pic here:

http://www.bikemagic.com/news/images/schwalbe_icespiker_action_h.jpg

They apparently favoured the sensitivity of the boot kitted out with these studded foot plates, particularly for slab work. Care to comment on that?


 petestack 18 Feb 2009
In reply to Astral Highway:
> (In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat)
> Glad you liked it!

It's very, very funny!

 Astral Highway 18 Feb 2009
In reply to petestack:
> (In reply to Astral Highway)
> [...]
>
> It's very, very funny!


Thanks!
Carnage 20 Feb 2009
In reply to Astral Highway: Nice work Al, that really made me laugh!
 Astral Highway 20 Feb 2009
In reply to Carnage:

Thanks Stu. Hope you like the Aphrodite sequel.
sconesandjam 23 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> 'Rad' Butts and Creagan Beaulay are two British climbers who describe themselves as 'riding the wind.'
>

Rad – after reading your Aphrodite article, I thought you were really cool. Now I have read this one I realise you are hot, hot, hot
 stevefromstoke 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I used to go caving with a guy just like Rad , he taught me all he didn't know . What a guy
 Lucas 03 Apr 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Its like an aussie movie called 'the castle' and 'Rum Doodle'combined!!!!! I love it, great writing!
 Astral Highway 04 Apr 2009
In reply to Lucas:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Its like an aussie movie called 'the castle' and 'Rum Doodle'combined!!!!! I love it, great writing!

Thanks, Lucas. Nice to see that the first one in the trio is still being read and enjoyed. Cheers and hope you like the other two.

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