UKC

I have been climbing for some 14 or so years now with the occational bit of winter walking and winter ridge walk etc. I would love to start 'Ice climbing' on some easy gullies and that kind of thing.

I was wondering if the best introduction to this area of the sport would be to go to an Ice wall i.e. Vertical Chill Manchester? http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=343149

Then maybe get some instruction from an M.I.C.

Do you think this is the best way to go about starting ice climbing, or is there a better way?

In reply to ianslade:


Indoor ice climbing is a lot steeper than what you would aim to begin climbing on, and might be a little deceiving to begin with. It is a great introduction to ice axes and crampons but with your experience im guessing you already some knowledge of this kit!?



Do you have any friends who already ice climb??? There is no better way than being dragged up a route by over enthusiastic friends! Much cheaper than a course as well!!!

In reply to ianslade: Do you mean ice climbing, or Winter mountaineering? If you are thinking about doing some easy gullies, then you probably won't be ice climbing. Jagged Globe offer some great courses (I've just got back from one):
- http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/course/scottish.html

If you want to climb pure icefalls, then a few sessions at at indoor ice wall might be a good idea, and then a week on some icefalls in Europe - La Grave, Gogne, Rjukan, etc.

Hope this helps

In reply: I don't have any freinds who ice climb, so there is no one who can drag me up a face.

I was thinking of doing some winter mountainering (gullies etc) with the aim of climbing some ice falls being my ultimate goal.

In reply to ianslade:

Do you want to "ice climb" or Scottish Winter climb? The latter can be pure icefall but invariably includes mixed or snow gullys.

In reply to ianslade:


give this guy a shout, tell him what you want and he will taylor make a course to get you started!

http://www.mountainplan.com/

In reply to ianslade: If i were you, Sir, take your previous 14 year experience of winter mountains and get the latest SMC Winter Climbs Guide! Find what you can do in you locality and go 4 a play!

In reply to Removed User: I realise that UK climbing will almost always involve doing some mixed stuff which I am happy to do and if I want to climb full on Ice falls I will have to travel to the Alps.

I would like to be able to learn to climb stuff like No 5 gulley on Ben Nevis and then maybe go to Alps and climb some Ice falls.

What is the best way to do this and become confident to lead on Mixed and Ice

In reply to iain miller: I have done CMD arette abd looked longenly at all the cliffs along that side of Ben nevis as well as doing the north east butress in summer do I just bit the bullet and go for it?

In reply to ianslade:

I'd say No5 Gully is a big step. Although many people on here try to equate rock climbing grade to winter climbing grade it doesn't follow at all (IMHO). I'd say hook up with someone on here who has the experience and follow them up a couple of grade III routes.

In reply to ianslade:

Never done it but it looks like it would work. I doubt it gets in Nick that often though so I'd still suggest a trip to Scotland.

In reply to ianslade: iwas in your shoes last year, so i went on a winter mountaineering course . this guy is excellent and i bet he will sort something perfect for your needs.

www.mountainplan.com

In reply to ianslade: ah, i see vincent vega has beat me to it.

In reply to Removed User: No it does not get into condition very often It has been a good season this year.

In reply to katie75: two recomendations on the same trail, he must be good.

In reply to ianslade: It might not be a 'classic', but it'll certainly give you an idea of some of the walk-in's for sure! But, yes-KinderD'fall will give a steady intro to grades II & III, even IV in the right conditions, altho' alot shorter than some of the routes further north and (at times) alot busier, it's a great place to practice and give your kit a thorough working over before heading off elsewhere. Plenty of room in the amphitheatre to practice mixed & torque-techniques aswell.
If conditions are thin at Kinder, try heading off up Langdale & Angle Tarn area in the Lakes if conditions are better further up the M6, lots of short butresses to play on and link together for a longer-route if you fancy (grades III+). Vertical Chill is good too if you want to learn how to move on vertical ice before you commit to something outdoors.

In reply to Danzig: What grade is Vertical Chill? ( http://www.vertical-chill.com/vcm-gallery.htm )

In reply to ianslade: Its probably a III/IV, not really graded for technicality due to the top-roping, but going over the dry-tooling over-hang could give it a IV (4) for comparison I guess (and that really is just a guess).
Couple of vids to take a peek at if you fancy-1st is KinderDownfall a couple of weeks back (after I came off...) and then me at Vertical Chill and said over-hang. youtube.com/watch?v=rTeXUajlaoU&
youtube.com/watch?v=LqJ2FW9twJo&

thanks

In reply to Danzig: Not a very big wall is it ? - what height is it exactly ? - I once went to the one over Bradford/Castleford way ? and that was quite high and was a pity it closed.

If the one at Manchester is as high then £20 would be worth it now and again.

In reply to Jim Haydock: I think I heard it was about 8m tall but don't quote me.

In reply to ianslade: Yep-8m and a climb is over in about 2-3mins! Get to the cow-bell at the top and ding! I tend to go for a winter warm-up/down before commiting myself further afield. Way things are going, it'll be the only ice about soon! In the 'lap of the gods' with the weather for our trip upto the Ben 5th march...bring on more cold.

In reply to ianslade:

the alps offer much more stable condiotions if you want pure ice fall climbing . a friend and i have just returned from the ecrins where there is much to choose in the easier grade III s.

the walk ins are between 15 to 30 mins , usually blue skies and if you dont have a pal to go with then there are a number of british guides who are based out there who could help you.

if you already have a lot of general mountaineering experience then pure ice fall climbing is what you need .

In reply to ianslade: Join a club such as the Lancs Caving and Climbing Club, very active ice climbing members there - see pics at http://www.lccc.org.uk/ we go to Scotland, Rjukan, Alps every year as well as the Lakes, N Wales when in condition