In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
(Apologies to Gaz for going off-piste on your thread)
Arrived Baku during the troubles early 90's (Russian tanks enforced nightly curfews), travelled up west to mountains, remember place called Sheki - earthquake centre for Az, Caucasus very alpine, big observatory, up to Georgian border. Banned from going to Armenian border - still some fighting. Later, south of Baku along Caspian coast, some weird sandstone outcrops - daft bouldering, towards Iran border. Very distinctive country, all types of landscape, totally gnarly drivers, endless vodka toasts, and sturgeon and caviar with everything....
I hear many changes recently - when you there?