UKC

I'm off the the Alps in August for the first time and I'm trying to figure out a good training schedule. I run 3/4 times a week (increasing weeks total by one mile, up to 35 miles a week) and doing weights at the gym on 2 days. I climb on sandstone around twice a month.

I plan to spend at least one day a week running/hiking on hills. I don't live near any mountains (brecon beacons are 3hrs away) so mountain training isn't too much of an option although I do have monthly hiking trips booked.

Do you think this is enough? Is it the right kind of training? Does anyone have any hints or tips on getting to peak fitness in 5 months? any dietary tips would also be good.

I'm really keen to make the most of this trip and I'm sure the fitter I am, the more I'll enjoy it.

Thanks in advance. A

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

I'm thinking you sound more than fit enough already.

Sounds like scrambling practice is the thing you need most so get over to Wales a few times and get into stuff like in your profile pic.

In reply to JLS:


Yes, up and down.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

If you are as serious as you sound about your training you could consider weekend trips to Fort William on the sleeper train with a night in Glen Nevis YH.

A good alpine warm-up is up Tower Ridge, down Ledge Route & up Castle Ridge and as many Mamoures as you can manage the next day before your return train on Sunday.

In reply to JLS: yeah, I'd really love to be able to do that but I don't have a climbing partner and my winter exp is limited, summer may be a option.

In reply to AnnaSpanna: It obviously depends completely on what you plan to do when you are in the alps.....if its hill walking, then running and hill walking. If its bouldering then go bouldering.... Basically just try and replicate what you intend to do when you are there, except train to be fitter than you think you need to be to accomplish your aims.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

>"summer may be a option"

Yeah, it was summer I was thinking, Tower, Ledge & Castle would be a bit of a mission in winter nick. In May/June however...

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

Learn how to sit in a tent for 3 straight days, how to dry gear in your sleeping bag, drink lots of coffee (and beer/wine), read books and still be ready to go for it at the drop of a hat.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

Stick a ladder up against the side of your house and carry a progressively heavier rucksack up and down it for longer and longer spells. Don't leave it out at night or it will get stolen and perhaps used to burgle my house! Ignore the neighbours laughing at you, they aren't going to the Alps.

In reply to cringeworthy: Sounds like a plan

In reply to Removed User:
That sounds more like it. Also the need to train for spending all day sport climbing as the weather is too unpredictable to go up high

In reply to AnnaSpanna:
Sounds as if your fitnesss level is fine. As its your first trip its important to get some basic winter skills, it will save you time when you are out there.
You will need to be comfortable with crampon techniques on reasonably steep slopes, and know how to use an Ice axe, also your rope work needs to be slick.
Practice moving together and direct belays using an Italian hitch.
Also you will need to know how to read snow conditions, and some basic weather knowledge is useful.
Crevase rescue knowledge is essentail, you can practice this in your front lawn, with a willing partner.
If you are going with a guided party you will cover much of this stuff but it helps to be familiar with it.
Also carry as little as possible, Brits usually carry too much gear in the alps it definetly slows you down.
Have fun!
Simon.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

Hi

Myself and 2 friends (1 an alps novice) will be in cham for 3 weeks in August, we'll be doing easy stuff initially to acclimatize and get our friend up to speed, probably the usual suspects like midi plan, cosmiques, petit verte routes and some easier couloirs plus something on the tacul triangle, eperon and rebuffat routes on S face midi etc. If you're over there and looking for people to team up with you're welcome to join in with us. I'll put an entry in the partners book in the OHM when we get there. We're thinking of the first 3 weeks of August. I know how much of a pain it can be when you can't find anyone when you're over there.
ps in reply to your post about what to do as prep for the Alps, climb some rock in crampons, learn how to put on and take off coils efficiently and how to tie an italian without thinking (maybe you can already, don't want to sound patronizing!) Cosley and Houston's book is a really good source.
damilano's books vol 1 & 2 transformed our alps trips. we had lindsay griffins books which are ok for cross referencing stuff but we found them so un-detailed. I think they just became outdated, they were probably good when they came out.

Anyway, check the OHM book if you're stuck for folk to climb with, other than that have a good trip, good luck.
crieff427.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

As others have said it doesn't sound if you fitness is going to be an issue.

What are your objectives when out in the alps.

If you intend climbing multi-pitch routes I'd say it was essential to get some experience of long multi-pitch routes here before you leave. Moving together, quick/safe handovers at belays, multiple abseils etc are all essentials......unless you are going out to crag.
JLS's advice was sound. Get on a train to your nearest mountains and practice. A couple of weekends on long, easy routes on wet dodgy rock would set you up well.

Slugain

In reply to Slugain Howff: I'd echo what Slug says about belays & also when abbing off routes. If you spend an extra 3 minutes switching over on the way up & on the way down on a 15 pitch route that's an extra hour & a half you'll be on the route. This is one of the main places Brits fall down in terms of speed as there are very few places in the British Isles that are big enough for this kind of speed to be really significant in making a difference.

In reply to Frank4short:

In the past I've got myself "up to speed" by doing multiple laps, climb up/ab down, on things like Eagle Ridge or some of the big chossy routes on the Dubh Loch.Worked a treat and beats the gym.

In reply to AnnaSpanna: As others have said you are fit enough and
definately will be by the time you go out. You need to gain some mountain
experience but you've not got a partner which will make things difficult.
You don't say whether you are in a club but being in one would help you to
learn all the basic skills needed for an Alpine trip. My advice is to go
with someone who has some Alpine experience, you will learn and enjoy the
trip.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:
what are you going to do in the alps without a partner. Is it a course you are doing ?

My experience of the lower austrian alps so far is that they are big. Lots of long days on the hill or at least long days walking anywhere would help. 30min runs aren't going to prepare your muscles for 8 hour slogs uphill

In reply to AnnaSpanna: i'd skip the southern sandstone and head to n.wales instead.

but otherwise sounds like you'll be fit as a fiddle.

certainly more so than me and i'm off there in early sept (bah plenty of time!)

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

You are correct in that the fitter you are, the more you will enjoy it. If possible, look for a couple of weekends away - maybe 8 hours each day backpacking (use the bivvy gear / food you intend to use in the Alps - see what works for you and what you can leave out).

Another area you might want to think about (depending on how technical the ground is) will be slick rope handling. Doing multipitch routes efficiently is good for this.

In reply to GrahamD: moving together practice, more than multi pitching i'd suggest.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

A lot will depend on how well and how quickly you acclimitise which at the moment is unknowable.

You seem to be doing the right stuff so long as your running is done properly. Ignore the people who say running won't make a difference to your hill fitness they don't know what they are talking about. 30 minutes gentle jogging won't help much but a proper running programme will.

You need to be doing 1 long run in the week preferably at least an hour or more and idealy around 15 miles out of your 35. The rest ought to include a fast (threashold or race pace) run, a long interval set and a hill set (so long as you don't live on the fens you can find a suitible hill of 200-400m). So long as you do the hills and the speed work and your legs will be strong enough. Do the long run properly and getting a bit out of breath won't worry you.

In reply to AnnaSpanna:

But will you be able to cope with the weather and the altitude (weather permitting)?
Assuming you are going to the western Alps then it is likely to be totally heaving it down for a least half the time you are there, and if it stops raining then, when you go rushing up to high altitude, you will feel absolutely terrible with nausea and a throbbing headache.

Train by camping three of four days and nights at a stretch in pouring rain and drink loads of cheap wine so that you can lie feeling sick in the tent (possibly throwing up a few times) and then wake up damp with a crippling headache. Once you get used to this then no 4000 m peak will have a chance.