UKC

going out to the ecrins in summer to climb amongst other things the aiguille dibona . can any one suggest other good D+ / TD V+ routes in the area that are worth doing . was in the allefroide area last year for high valley cragging which was great but looking for more high mountain rock routes . have the ecrins guide but would like to know what peoples own experience of various routes were and would be nice to have a list of sorts to go on. thanks

In reply to nk: Aig. Dibona, South face Voie Madier TD 3* route, its even got a tunnel on the second pitch, when you get to the Boell ledge take the Fissure Madier and go to the top, worth the extra effort. There is Ab. points now from the Boell ledge, not sure from the top, otherwise ab. down the original route to the snow field(if its still there) Tete De La Maye H/Abbe TD- Best of the upper tier. Easy one Lower Tier Le Gay Pied AD-.Paroi De La Cascade D'en Bas. La chaude Pisse TD-. L'Encoula Disney Land TD. Worth doing, allow plenty of time, its got around 18 pitches and 14 abs. Take care Sniffy

In reply to nk: On the Meije left wing: Nous Partirons Dans L'Ivresse - 5, maybe a few moves of just about 5+, bomber bolts, lovely climbing, abseil descent. Tete du Rouget south face: Voie de la Console. Aig. Orientale de Soreiler: Mazurka. Pic Nord des Cavales: Le Diable au Corps, and the (easier) W ridge. Aig. de Soreiller: N Pillar. Aig. de Sialouze: Super Pilou or the classic ridge traverse. Pic Sans Nom: Magic Stones.

On the Dibona I would recommend the Savoyards route - much better than the Madier and really not much harder - no way is it the ED the AC guide gives it. HVS max. If you're going well, try the classic Meije south face. But be careful about route-finding.

It's a beautiful area with a lot of good climbing.

In reply to nk:

make sure you get the local guide (Oisans Moderne Oisans Sauvage, by J-M Cambon) rather than relying on the AC guide.