UKC

NEWS: Beat Kammerlander - Prinzip Hoffnung E10?

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 UKC News 13 Mar 2009
[Beat Kammerlander - Principle Hope E10?, 1 kb]Beat Kammerlander has re-climbed Prinzip Hoffnung (Principle Hope) at the Burs Plate in Austria a decade after he made the first ascent. This time he climbed it without the bolts.


Weighing in at F8b/+ and featuring 15 metre falls on to micro wires, Beat considers this to be one of the great highlights of his climbing career.



Read more with VIDEO at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46473
 UKB Shark 13 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome. 50 doesn't look so depressing now.

(Come on Jack - get creative.. "The Beat goes on")
 Jack Geldard 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Simon Lee: Very good Simon!

Beat Kammerlander = legend.

Anyone catch that profile of him in Alpinist a few years ago? I'd love to go to Ratikon.

Jack
 Michael Ryan 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nearly ended up in a fight with some Bishop redneck over an incident involving Beat... the redneck didn't like Beat's long red hair!

Top bloke and top climber.

Mick
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Superb and interesting to note he gave it an E Grade on the German site.

Doesn't he know the system is broke?


Chris

 UKB Shark 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I'd love to go to Ratikon


Me too ever since I read Kim Carrigan's article about it in Mountain. It never looms as large in the mind as Verdon and Dolomites - it probably should.

Intro to it here.

http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,269,0,1,regions.html
 Richard Hall 13 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: Did he chop the bolts?
 steve taylor 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Nearly ended up in a fight with some Bishop redneck over an incident involving Beat... the redneck didn't like Beat's long red hair!
>

Was this, perchance, in Rusty's? The clientele there don't seem to like anything without a red neck.
 snoop6060 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Richard Hall:
> (In reply to UKC News) Did he chop the bolts?

Yep.
 Michael Ryan 13 Mar 2009
In reply to steve taylor:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> Was this, perchance, in Rusty's? The clientele there don't seem to like anything without a red neck.

Just outside the Kava Cafe - watching the Mule Days parade.
 Enty 13 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

We nearly killed his dog with a tin of condensed milk on the campsite in la Palud in 1986

Enty
 Michael Ryan 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> We nearly killed his dog with a tin of condensed milk on the campsite in la Palud in 1986

You can take the man away from Burnley but you can never take Burnley out of the man.

What's next .... Chouca? Rose and the Vampire?

Darn bolts, who needs 'em?











Me!
SI A 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Enty:

how does one kill a dog with condensed milk? unless of course you were physically beatng the poor mut with the full can.
 Enty 13 Mar 2009
In reply to SI A:

You open a full can, decide you don't want it, leave it outside the tent overnight then watch a dog being very very very ill for the whole of the next day.

Enty
 James Oswald 13 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome.
 Enty 13 Mar 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sorry everyone - I've just been informed that it was Peter Schäffler's dog and not Beat's.

Enty
 tobyfk 14 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

What sort of rock is it? Burs Plate not the Ratikon.
 justin c 14 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Lol is this the oldest ascent of an E10 ? How old is he 136 ? Good effort grandad!

Looks bloody good bit of rock ! WOw!

I couldnt help but notice the overlap to his R , that looks good to follow !
 HeMa 14 Mar 2009
In reply to tobyfk:

From the pics and vid, it resembled gneiss... Pretty similar to the one you can find in Tessin.
 Moacs 14 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Lovely looking rock.

Are you absolutely sure about the translation of the route name? (Perhaps "The Hope Princliple"?).

The filming manages to make the slab look overhung all the way - but at the start it's clearly just off-vertical and at the end he can balance with hands off!

J

 mynyddresident 14 Mar 2009
Looks like Rainbow slab from the photo.
In reply to mynyddresident: http://www.beatkammerlander.com/test/ some great pictures on his website....

Legend, the route looks amazing.....
 Michael Ryan 14 Mar 2009
In reply to justin c:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Lol is this the oldest ascent of an E10 ? How old is he 136 ? Good effort grandad!

He's 50 and probably younger than most 31 year olds.

 Bulls Crack 14 Mar 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Superb and interesting to note he gave it an E Grade on the German site.
>
> Doesn't he know the system is broke?
>
>
> Chris
>
>

Those furriners have finally seen the light after decades of souless...high quality....sunny....bolt-clipping...with fine wines, good food, beautifully tanned women/men....

Have they gone mad?
 James Oswald 15 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: He's trying to fly at 2:4O
 Michael Ryan 16 Mar 2009
In reply to ejected:

The video is there. Refresh your browser. Force refresh on a PC - control F5 I think.

Mick
 GrahamD 16 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent stuff. Using a bandolier as well - not something you here of very often at that level.
 Enty 19 Mar 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

E10 sums it up well enough. R/X means nothing to me.
Well done Beat for using the best grading system in the world.

Enty
MattDTC 19 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Rock looks good, gear 'looks' good - looks like a contender for some wad to have a go at a ground up/onsight ascent.

Anybody up for it?
 GrahamD 19 Mar 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Hard / Easy is simpler still - it still doesn't resonate with a public brought up on UK trad grades. I can stand at the bottom of, say, Widdop Wall or Indian Face and think wow - its a bigger prospect than these routes.
 jwi 19 Mar 2009
In reply to MattDTC: Hardly. Since no-one but Glowacs can onsight Strawberries (7c+) and Prinzip Hoffnung looks similar in style but 8b/b+
 Enty 19 Mar 2009
In reply to jwi:
> (In reply to MattDTC) Hardly. Since no-one but Glowacs can onsight Strawberries (7c+) and Prinzip Hoffnung looks similar in style but 8b/b+

Apart from one is overhanging by about 3 degrees and the other is 3 degrees the other way?
I'd like to see a hands off on Strawberries.

Enty


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