UKC

In reply to UKC Articles:

I enjoyed the music - what is it? Anyone know?

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

It's Sigur Ros - Við spilum endalaust

In reply to UKC Articles:

Funny how you are still hoping he is going to get it even though youknow he isn't even close.....cool video.

In reply to UKC Articles: Excellent video, and I love the music. More please!

In reply to UKC Articles: I really enjoyed this... Good to see the progression for the first few moves. Makes a nice changed from seeing a film that makes things look easy. Technically nice as well..

In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely film. well done.

makes my injury feel better.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great vid


but you just *know* you're going to be back there again sometime...

In reply to UKC Articles: really good.. really different. enjoyed it

In reply to UKC Articles:

Repeatedly trying a problem beyond you, the star of the video is nowhere near completing that problem... reminds me of the Rad Butts story.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1644

"Rad was on this vertical panel. First he was doing fine, but then he had to tackle an overhanging section. It looked really out there.

Rad tried one way after another. After a few attempts, he started shouting when he fell off. Soon, he was completely drenched in sweat, but he still wouldn't give up. Finally, after letting out a huge roar and slapping the wall so hard it obviously hurt, he managed to get to the next bit."

Interesting that this behavior at an indoor wall is the subject of ridicule, but bouldering outdoors... what strange people we climbers really are!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Amazing climbing, love the music all round an awesome video.

In reply to UKC Articles: Genius. The best climbing vid i've seen in ages.

In reply to Wrongfoot: one of the (many) great things about bouldering is trying something way too hard.

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Absolutely. However I was still intrigued with the different "rules" for the various disciplines.

"One of the (many) great things about top-roping is trying something way too hard" doesn't scan the same, but is equally true.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Blimey. Just goes to show. Thought it was dull as hell - the sort of thing you click off pretty fast on youtube. I suppose with everyone having chavcams we can look forward to a lot more of this sort of thing.

Pebble and Stanage look jolly pretty, though. Except for the hideous mess we've made under the former, obviously.

jcm

In reply to UKC Articles: What editing sofware are folk using for this sort of thing by the way?

In reply to Richard Bradley:

This was done on iMovie HD I believe. Industry standard would be Final Cut Pro, Adobe Premiere, or Avid.

In reply to tipsy:

I know I'll get slagged for this, but here ya go...

"Best worked grade V5". Repeatedly trying and failing on a 7b+, which is a good 4 or 5 grades harder than your best worked grade.

Am I alone in thinking that this is poor practice? Adding extra wear to something you can't touch.

If everyone started top roping a super classic grit E4 route when they had never managed to second anything above HVS, I bet loads of people would be moaning.

Sorry guys, no offence meant, but I can't see why UKC are in favour of this practice.

In reply to bentley's biceps:

Where did that come from-
"Best worked grade V5" ?

In reply to tipsy:

User profile.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=63962

In reply to UKC Articles: Great video and music.
Loads better than this one even thuogh he makes it!!

youtube.com/watch?v=i1JyloATKxw&

In reply to bentley's biceps:

No, you're not alone. The footholds on this are trashed enough as it is and don't need any more idiots scrabbling around all over them. At this rate, it'll be impossible to step across to the flake without slowly but surely sliding off.

I've given up and left problems when it's become clear that they're just too hard so that I don't damage smears or break pebbles. It's a difficult one, because without trying stuff that's hard, you're not going to get any better. But honestly, if you can't do the step across to the flake on Deliverance - a move of about 5c or so - it's unlikely you're going to make it very far once you've got it. Go and get a bit better, scrabble about on less sought after problems, and come back when you're stronger.

In reply to Pagan: The footholds on this are trashed enough as it is and don't need any more idiots scrabbling around all over them. At this rate, it'll be impossible to step across to the flake without slowly but surely sliding off.


I have probably first did that move 15 years ago and the footholds are not discernably worse now than then. Conditions make quite a diffrenece on how easy it is to slip off them.

Trying something too hard is what it is all about for many. I was watching Dave Mac on dvd last night on his boulder problem project at Glen Nevis failing again and again and again. Are you up for kicking him in the aspirationals as well ?

In reply to Simon Lee:

Why stop at boulder problems Simon?

BAN multiple tries and the working of sport routes... that damn Chris Sharma and his projecting.

He should take it down a notch.

Onsights only.

Do you mind policing Malham Lower Wall? I'm sure the BMC could find some money for that task.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Do you mind policing Malham Lower Wall? I'm sure the BMC could find some money for that task.


Do I get a uniform ? I've always had a thing for epaulettes.

In reply to Pagan:
But honestly, if you can't do the step across to the flake on Deliverance - a move of about 5c or so - it's unlikely you're going to make it very far once you've got it.

B*llocks. The move from the flake to the top is totally morpho and just requires alot of commitment, good conditions and - yes - some technique.
Ability to reach the flake has no bearing on whether or not someone is likely to be able to make the dyno.


It took me about 20 sessions to do Deliverance and it is probably my most memorable bouldering tick. It was alot harder than anything else I'd done at that time, and when I first tried it it felt close to impossible. Should I have given up as easily as you're suggesting??? I'm glad I didn't. The gradual progression, seeing the moves come together, working out slightly different foot placements, spending about a month being just an inch short on the dyno...were all part of the experience. The top move is "all in the mind". Once I'd done it and knew the dyno was possible for me, I could do it time and time again the same day, and on several occasions since.

Good vid and awesome problem.

In reply to bentley's biceps: recently ticked f7a+ in 20 minutes, my previous best was f6c. i think the 2 grades almost equate. besides, as someone pointed out- bouldering is all about pushing it
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