UKC

Western Grit

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 Lunar25 11 May 2009
A new edition of western grit has just come out, originally i wasnt going to even consider buying it but now ive noticed it has entirely new quarries included im tempted (Houghton) for example.

Any advice on whether its worth purchasing?
 CarolineMc 11 May 2009
In reply to Fantasian: Saw a copy today. Looks brilliant, much improved on the last one and agree, the new areas add to the value. C-:
OP Lunar25 13 May 2009
noone else seen it or have advice?
 Silum 13 May 2009
Get the Staffordshire Grit one by the BMC, its better and has more anyway. Plus your supporting the BMC. ...And you get more 'stories' for coffee table enjoyment.
In reply to Fantasian: I have old western grit and its good. New one is bigger longer and uncut...ahem. plus my mate is in it so hurrah. Best guides ive seen and covers some of all over northwest.
crisp 13 May 2009
In reply to hairynortherner: Bring your copy to Warrington on Tuesday and I will sign it !!
 Simon Caldwell 14 May 2009
In reply to Silum:
> Get the Staffordshire Grit one by the BMC, its better and has more anyway.

It has a lot less if you're looking for crags on Kinder, or in the Chew Valley, or Cheshire, or...
riichar 14 May 2009
In reply to fantasian:
Alright Pete! I wonder if all the mistakes (e.g. that route at Anglezarke and that slab at Helsby) are corrected...
The problem is, if you get the new one we'll have endless arguments about whether Cameo at W1 is REALLY only HVS.....
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 14 May 2009
In reply to riichar:
> (In reply to fantasian)
> Alright Pete! I wonder if all the mistakes (e.g. that route at Anglezarke and that slab at Helsby) are corrected...
> The problem is, if you get the new one we'll have endless arguments about whether Cameo at W1 is REALLY only HVS.....

Be explicit about the 'mistakes' and I might be able to tell you if we got them.

Oh and Cameo always was E1 wasn't it?


Chris
riichar 14 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: Apparently Cameo is HVS in the new guide... I did it the other day after the recent clean up there and although its only steady 5a, I think its still definitely bottom end E1 for the runout sections above tiny wires.
As for other mistakes, havent got my guide with me so cant remember offhand, but theres an E2 at Anglezarke near terracotta etc that shows the wrong finish (so Im told, although havent done it myself). And also I think theres a line thats wrong/v unclear on one of the slab routes just right of the golden pillar at Helsby (again another E2).

Wasn't meaning it as slight against the guide - apart from a few small issues its an excellent bit of work!!
 Coel Hellier 14 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Be explicit about the 'mistakes' and I might be able to tell you [...]

You spelled Andi Turner" as "Andy" in one photo. And you managed the remarkable feat of making New Mills Tor seem an attractive place to climb. How much photoshopping did that take? But looks good overall!
 Simon Caldwell 14 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
One of the speling mistales I spotted in the first edition is still there
 Al Evans 14 May 2009
In reply to Silum:
> Get the Staffordshire Grit one by the BMC, its better and has more anyway. Plus your supporting the BMC. ...And you get more 'stories' for coffee table enjoyment.

I would normally agree, but Western Grit covers several areas that Staffs Grit does not, you would have to buy Lancashire Rock as well, personally I would, then rumour has it I'm a millionaire!
 Chris the Tall 14 May 2009
In reply to Coel Hellier:
Similar Photoshop job on making a very cold and wet Hobson Moor look vaguely appealing, and yet they completely forgot to disguise my bald patch !
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 14 May 2009
In reply to riichar:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Apparently Cameo is HVS in the new guide... I did it the other day after the recent clean up there and although its only steady 5a, I think its still definitely bottom end E1 for the runout sections above tiny wires.

Well it is E1 5a in the copy I have here!

> As for other mistakes, havent got my guide with me so cant remember offhand, but theres an E2 at Anglezarke near terracotta etc that shows the wrong finish (so Im told, although havent done it myself).

Double Trip - I think we sorted that.

> And also I think theres a line thats wrong/v unclear on one of the slab routes just right of the golden pillar at Helsby (again another E2).

Morgue Slab - yes we sorted that too - with a much clearer photo-topo.
>
> Wasn't meaning it as slight against the guide - apart from a few small issues its an excellent bit of work!!

Thanks for that.

Chris
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 14 May 2009
In reply to Al Evans:
>
> I would normally agree, but Western Grit covers several areas that Staffs Grit does not, you would have to buy Lancashire Rock as well, personally I would, then rumour has it I'm a millionaire!

....... and the Kinder guide, and the Chew Valley, and Merseyside Sandstone.


Chris

 Rob Davies 14 May 2009
In reply to Coel Hellier: Actually there's less obvious touching up of colours in the photos in the new Western Grit than in the previous version. In the photos lots of crags now look authentically green and the sky realistically grey.
 wilkie14c 14 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Did Cameo the other night. At half height, I got in a size 1/2 micro wire on a screamer and just above that a size 1/2 cam. I fluffed the crux move and lobbed a short way. In doing this, the runners (very few at that!) ficked out below me, the cam that held me had turned slightly and the upshot was I was held at half height by 2 lobes of a cam and if that popped there was just the size 1/2 micro between me and the ground. This freaked me into a lower off and this on a route I'd done many times before. Most Def E1. Small, spaced gear on vertical sustained finger edges.
Still, to someone who can climb vertical finger edges well it may well seem HVS. The same climber may well find the Flie E1 if they can't jam!
Anyhoo, I'll pick up the new guide as mine has been read to death, The brownstones pages are missing, several pages dissolved in the rain and the french translated pages at the front are missing due to an 'emergency' at Manchester Piccadilly station whereby after paying 30p for the use of a toilet, I find there is no paper provided.....
Good work Rockfax team!
 smudge 14 May 2009
In reply to Fantasian: I have enough guidebooks to cover the areas, but I still bought it. The format and the content are inspiring and I spend loads of time drooling over the pictures and topos. I probably spend too much time reading guidebooks... I've already started compiling a tick list of routes I haven't done and areas I haven't yet visited.

I think that this is one of the best guidebooks I've bought, it's stunning.

I also buy the BMC guides (etc) as they are also good and want to support them.

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