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When I say "best", I mean...which have you enjoyed the most (can be in hindsight :-p) really and I'd like to know why, too!
(I just feel like making there be a climbingy thread at the top of the board :-D )
And...what route, given the choice, would you do next? (Weather being no object. Limit this to with in the UK, rock routes if you please!)
Mine:
Best route so far this year--Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan. Found my first HVS 5a onsight lead (the second pitch on the route) exciting, challenging, but not scary enough to colour my trousers and really enjoyed the whole route. (We only did the independent bit, didn't finish with Nea.)
Route I'd most like to do next-- Well, the next route I do will be my 500th so I'd like it to be Really good...Eliminate A would do nicely! But, given the forecast for my trip to the Lakes this weekend, I'd settle for any good route on White Ghyll/Gimmer/Pavey (unless its seeping like a seepy thing). White Ghyll Wall comes to mind, in fact. As does North West Arete, I think it is.
Over to you, UKC!
(I just feel like making there be a climbingy thread at the top of the board :-D )
And...what route, given the choice, would you do next? (Weather being no object. Limit this to with in the UK, rock routes if you please!)
Mine:
Best route so far this year--Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan. Found my first HVS 5a onsight lead (the second pitch on the route) exciting, challenging, but not scary enough to colour my trousers and really enjoyed the whole route. (We only did the independent bit, didn't finish with Nea.)
Route I'd most like to do next-- Well, the next route I do will be my 500th so I'd like it to be Really good...Eliminate A would do nicely! But, given the forecast for my trip to the Lakes this weekend, I'd settle for any good route on White Ghyll/Gimmer/Pavey (unless its seeping like a seepy thing). White Ghyll Wall comes to mind, in fact. As does North West Arete, I think it is.
Over to you, UKC!
In reply to Flicka:
If your going to White Ghyll, be sure to do "Haste Not"! Brilliant positions and covers quite a lot of crag!
If your going to White Ghyll, be sure to do "Haste Not"! Brilliant positions and covers quite a lot of crag!
In reply to Reaver2k: True dat. Steady second required.
In reply to Flicka: Favourite route this year was 'Life During Wartime' at Bamford, my first E2/E3 and something I've been eyeing up since I started climbing. I think the route I'd most like to do is start by doing Napes needle then follow it with something up to the top of great gable, maybe Eagle's nest ridge. Then wild camp and climb Botterils slab the next day. Sounds like a fun weekend.
Congrats on your HVS.
Deacon
Congrats on your HVS.
Deacon
In reply to Flicka:
Recently: Either repeating Watkin's Ale, Filey (utterly brilliant) or The Moon, Yellow walls (committing and exhilarating even just to follow), can't really decide between the two even though they're worlds apart.
Next: No idea, it'll probably be some bouldering on Wetherby before a week off. What I aspire to next, the next big thing... again, no real idea, maybe Quartz Icicle, Wen or Chameleon, Whitestone cliffe.
jk
Recently: Either repeating Watkin's Ale, Filey (utterly brilliant) or The Moon, Yellow walls (committing and exhilarating even just to follow), can't really decide between the two even though they're worlds apart.
Next: No idea, it'll probably be some bouldering on Wetherby before a week off. What I aspire to next, the next big thing... again, no real idea, maybe Quartz Icicle, Wen or Chameleon, Whitestone cliffe.
jk
In reply to deacondeacon:
I like your thinking!!
In reply to people championing Haste Not:
It's on the list already :-D
I like your thinking!!
In reply to people championing Haste Not:
It's on the list already :-D
In reply to Flicka:
Most enjoyed: probably the Chicken Run variation or Little brown jug at Bosigran. Or maybe Countdown at Cheedale as my first real UK redpoint.
Next? Going to Rodellar this saturday and hoping to do Pequeno Pablo...
Most enjoyed: probably the Chicken Run variation or Little brown jug at Bosigran. Or maybe Countdown at Cheedale as my first real UK redpoint.
Next? Going to Rodellar this saturday and hoping to do Pequeno Pablo...
In reply to 1234None:
Supercrack at Lorry park on Sunday because it was great to climb a finger crack on bolts (it is actually a great route!)
Next route I want to do, hopefully this weekend is Calvary at Stanage.
Supercrack at Lorry park on Sunday because it was great to climb a finger crack on bolts (it is actually a great route!)
Next route I want to do, hopefully this weekend is Calvary at Stanage.
In reply to Flicka:
'Pretty sure that was my first HVS lead as well but that was a long time ago. I only possessed some long slings threaded through bicycle nuts in those day and remember long runouts between gear. I even carried a 'favourite' pebble in my pocket to use as a nut but never in fact used it.
> Best route so far this year--Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan. Found my first HVS 5a onsight lead (the second pitch on the route) exciting, challenging, but not scary enough to colour my trousers and really enjoyed the whole route. (We only did the independent bit, didn't finish with Nea.)
'Pretty sure that was my first HVS lead as well but that was a long time ago. I only possessed some long slings threaded through bicycle nuts in those day and remember long runouts between gear. I even carried a 'favourite' pebble in my pocket to use as a nut but never in fact used it.
In reply to Flicka:
I couldn't possibly narrow it down to one. Pick one from:
Meringue, Adam, Fortiter, Lakeland Cragsman, Queersville, Gogarth, Spectre, The File, Tension and Zapple Left-Hand. All for different reasons, although looking at that list, most of them (except for Fortiter and Tension, which were just really enjoyable) were pushing myself in one way or another.
Most like to do next, now that's a tough one. Probably Scavenger, but I'd settle for any one of about a thousand routes on any of my extensive lists!
I couldn't possibly narrow it down to one. Pick one from:
Meringue, Adam, Fortiter, Lakeland Cragsman, Queersville, Gogarth, Spectre, The File, Tension and Zapple Left-Hand. All for different reasons, although looking at that list, most of them (except for Fortiter and Tension, which were just really enjoyable) were pushing myself in one way or another.
Most like to do next, now that's a tough one. Probably Scavenger, but I'd settle for any one of about a thousand routes on any of my extensive lists!
In reply to Flicka:
Best this year is one of three.
Either Aviation on Lowman, which was amazing as I've wanted to climb it since the beginning.
I think that either Matchlees at Oldwall's Point or Loose Women at Blackchurch have it though, really getting into this culm malarky.
Fantastic adventurous climbing at a fair grade.
Next route I want to do is Mars at Swanage next week, oh dear.
The Southwest is truly the mother lode.
Best this year is one of three.
Either Aviation on Lowman, which was amazing as I've wanted to climb it since the beginning.
I think that either Matchlees at Oldwall's Point or Loose Women at Blackchurch have it though, really getting into this culm malarky.
Fantastic adventurous climbing at a fair grade.
Next route I want to do is Mars at Swanage next week, oh dear.
The Southwest is truly the mother lode.
In reply to Flicka:
I've only done 35 routes this year too few to choose from.
Most memorable (if only in terms of the sheer quantity of swearing - was ever a route more accurately named?) was a weak, pumped, dogged and flailing second of F*ckity F*ck F*ck at the Diamond, Wanaka, NZ.
I've only done 35 routes this year too few to choose from.
Most memorable (if only in terms of the sheer quantity of swearing - was ever a route more accurately named?) was a weak, pumped, dogged and flailing second of F*ckity F*ck F*ck at the Diamond, Wanaka, NZ.
In reply to Flicka:
As for favourite route as of yet, hard to choose, actually got an enormous done this year already!
Possibly Congo Corner, Roof Route (Rivelin), Valkerie('s) (both were good), Chee tor girdle, Reptile Smile at Blacknor north has some beautiful interesting climbing on it, in hindsight purely for the epic, What Crisis (Dovedale) but probably best of all quality wise, The Mincer, or Ellis's Eliminate were both brilliant.
Okay thats more of a list than a route, but not sure I could choose! Great year! and much more to come!
Soon to be going to Portland (again..) and Font, and hopefully lake district so there will be more to come!
As for favourite route as of yet, hard to choose, actually got an enormous done this year already!
Possibly Congo Corner, Roof Route (Rivelin), Valkerie('s) (both were good), Chee tor girdle, Reptile Smile at Blacknor north has some beautiful interesting climbing on it, in hindsight purely for the epic, What Crisis (Dovedale) but probably best of all quality wise, The Mincer, or Ellis's Eliminate were both brilliant.
Okay thats more of a list than a route, but not sure I could choose! Great year! and much more to come!
Soon to be going to Portland (again..) and Font, and hopefully lake district so there will be more to come!
In reply to Reaver2k:
I heard that John had slimmed down this year.
> (In reply to Flicka)
>
> As for favourite route as of yet, hard to choose, actually got an enormous Dunne this year already!
>
>
> As for favourite route as of yet, hard to choose, actually got an enormous Dunne this year already!
>
I heard that John had slimmed down this year.
In reply to Flicka: Climbed Spectre last year and thought it was an excellent route. One of my favourites of last year. Did the Blurter at Stanage on Sunday and really enjoyed it. Nice line under the roof. Also climbed The Dog at Pot Hole last night which is good steep limestone but very polished which made it all the more interesting. Route i would like to have a go at this year is The Tippler and Cenotaph Corner.
Well done on the HVS, many more to come, try Sickle.
Well done on the HVS, many more to come, try Sickle.
In reply to Flicka: Wow, I'm impressed that you've been logging your routes accurately enough that you know the next will be your 500th!
Best route so far this year is without a shadow of a doubt Angel Face on Beinn Eighe. It's not a route I've been lusting after for ages, but there was a plan to go up to Torridon and when I looked at the guide it just jumped at as "the route to do".
It didn't dissapoint, the climbing was sustained, varied, interesting and personally challenging. (I got through the "classic" hard sections but nearly came off on the delicate traverse. I'm not an elephant in a china shop, but ask any of my mates and they'll tell you that delicacy is not a forte of mine)
All this on a high remote crag with perfect weather. (if slightly chilly, considering it was still mid April)
Route I'd like to do next. Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay. Heading out on Saturday, but I doubt it'll be the next route. Certainly have a bash at some point during the week! Praying for the blocking high to keep blocking!
Best route so far this year is without a shadow of a doubt Angel Face on Beinn Eighe. It's not a route I've been lusting after for ages, but there was a plan to go up to Torridon and when I looked at the guide it just jumped at as "the route to do".
It didn't dissapoint, the climbing was sustained, varied, interesting and personally challenging. (I got through the "classic" hard sections but nearly came off on the delicate traverse. I'm not an elephant in a china shop, but ask any of my mates and they'll tell you that delicacy is not a forte of mine)
All this on a high remote crag with perfect weather. (if slightly chilly, considering it was still mid April)
Route I'd like to do next. Voyage of Faith on Dun Mingulay. Heading out on Saturday, but I doubt it'll be the next route. Certainly have a bash at some point during the week! Praying for the blocking high to keep blocking!
In reply to craig d:
> (In reply to PeakDJ)
>
> Supercrack at Lorry park on Sunday because it was great to climb a finger crack on bolts (it is actually a great route!)
>
Supercrack on my list at the moment - I've heard it's excellent.>
> Supercrack at Lorry park on Sunday because it was great to climb a finger crack on bolts (it is actually a great route!)
>
In reply to Flicka: Best route climbed summer style has to be Eagle ridge on The Mighty Lochnagar. Snowed on and off all day there was snow still on ledges but between this was the awesome Eagle Ridge. It's by no means a hard route(climbed harder this year) but it's a classic if ever there was one.
Next route I've got in mind is Yo Yo in Glencoe or Old Man of Stoer. The list of routes I want to do would have me blogging all night.
Next route I've got in mind is Yo Yo in Glencoe or Old Man of Stoer. The list of routes I want to do would have me blogging all night.
In reply to Flicka:
Best route of the year so far is either Raven Crag Gully in Feb in the Lakes coz I'd been waiting for it to come into condition for years and it was amazing quality or North East Buttress on Ben Nevis in some scabby weather in April; again I'd been waiting for that to be in good nick for years and it was truly superb and enjoyable whilst doing it, which is rare for a winter climb.
What I'd like to do next, hmmmm Meshach at Tremadog would be good after running out of time to do it on Saturday. Having said that the next route will probably be on grit and so a good HVS would fit the bill nicely.
Best route of the year so far is either Raven Crag Gully in Feb in the Lakes coz I'd been waiting for it to come into condition for years and it was amazing quality or North East Buttress on Ben Nevis in some scabby weather in April; again I'd been waiting for that to be in good nick for years and it was truly superb and enjoyable whilst doing it, which is rare for a winter climb.
What I'd like to do next, hmmmm Meshach at Tremadog would be good after running out of time to do it on Saturday. Having said that the next route will probably be on grit and so a good HVS would fit the bill nicely.
In reply to Flicka: Favourite - PAin pillar at Hawkcraig. My first V.S lead. So intimidating and exciting at the same time, and tremendous views over the forth at the belay stake.
Next big route - Agags groove in Glen Coe. Hopefully my first big mountain route.
Next big route - Agags groove in Glen Coe. Hopefully my first big mountain route.
Suspense @ Lawrencefield was special cos I'd been eying it for a while and it took a bit of fight and nerve to onsight, plus a nice chap took photos which is a first.
Aphasia @ Sergeant slabs cos I was so bloody knackered beforehand after an early start, lanky drive and walk in, and struggling badly on the warm up. Weak and nervous I nearly bottled it but knew I would curse myself if I didn't give it a go. A really intense and psychological climb, always on edge but I felt amazing at the top, a world of negativity washed away!
Also good was The Don @ Wyndcliffe cos it was my first day out since becoming a father but felt really relaxed and controlled after 9 months off. Must be a soft touch!
Aphasia @ Sergeant slabs cos I was so bloody knackered beforehand after an early start, lanky drive and walk in, and struggling badly on the warm up. Weak and nervous I nearly bottled it but knew I would curse myself if I didn't give it a go. A really intense and psychological climb, always on edge but I felt amazing at the top, a world of negativity washed away!
Also good was The Don @ Wyndcliffe cos it was my first day out since becoming a father but felt really relaxed and controlled after 9 months off. Must be a soft touch!
In reply to Flicka:
Coin flip between Tigers Don't Cry and No Musketeers at Shorn Cliff for favourite so far this year.
The top 3 of my wish list to do between now and the end of the year are Aviation at Lowman, Haytor, Three Pebble Slab at Froggatt and Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits at Denham Quarry.
Coin flip between Tigers Don't Cry and No Musketeers at Shorn Cliff for favourite so far this year.
The top 3 of my wish list to do between now and the end of the year are Aviation at Lowman, Haytor, Three Pebble Slab at Froggatt and Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits at Denham Quarry.
In reply to Flicka:
Trad - Little Brown Jug VS5a at Bosigran. It's got a bit of everything, a rising traverse, thin slabby moves and a thuggy layback up top, all on rough Cornish Granite. Lovely
Winter - Dollywaggon Gully III. First weekend winter climbing and a great route for a beginner. Really enjoyed it.
Trad - Little Brown Jug VS5a at Bosigran. It's got a bit of everything, a rising traverse, thin slabby moves and a thuggy layback up top, all on rough Cornish Granite. Lovely
Winter - Dollywaggon Gully III. First weekend winter climbing and a great route for a beginner. Really enjoyed it.
In reply to teflonpete:
You're not the only one to have mentioned this Little Brown Jug...think it's gonna have to go on my Cornwall wishlist for end of June when I'm planning to have the main day of my birthday meet at Bosi
You're not the only one to have mentioned this Little Brown Jug...think it's gonna have to go on my Cornwall wishlist for end of June when I'm planning to have the main day of my birthday meet at Bosi
In reply to Flicka:
Rock: Sin at Stoney - non polished steep limestone in an exposed position
Winter: Back Tor Gully - winter climbing within sight of my house
However the best "route" was a walk up Cnicht and Moelwyn Mawr on a stunning Easter weekend with an idyllic descent at the end of the day looking outtowards the sea.
Rock: Sin at Stoney - non polished steep limestone in an exposed position
Winter: Back Tor Gully - winter climbing within sight of my house
However the best "route" was a walk up Cnicht and Moelwyn Mawr on a stunning Easter weekend with an idyllic descent at the end of the day looking outtowards the sea.
In reply to Flicka:
Good thread.
Best route so far this year? It's a toss up between Improbability Drive at Stanage 'cos it felt so, well, improbable until I unlocked the crux (ground up) and it fell into place. That and a route called Pilier Dorada at El Polvorin in El Chorro, a massive 35m pitch of perfect golden limestone that demanded all my ability to flash and the climbing was sooo good.
Route to do next? Beef It (Cheedale) as I narrowly failed last weekend or The Strangler (Stanage).
Good thread.
Best route so far this year? It's a toss up between Improbability Drive at Stanage 'cos it felt so, well, improbable until I unlocked the crux (ground up) and it fell into place. That and a route called Pilier Dorada at El Polvorin in El Chorro, a massive 35m pitch of perfect golden limestone that demanded all my ability to flash and the climbing was sooo good.
Route to do next? Beef It (Cheedale) as I narrowly failed last weekend or The Strangler (Stanage).
In reply to Flicka:
Rjukanfossen, perfect conditions, that route intimidates you when you're at the base but really enjoyed it when we got going.
Rjukanfossen, perfect conditions, that route intimidates you when you're at the base but really enjoyed it when we got going.
In reply to Flicka: A Surprise to me but a boulder problem - Technical master at Millstone. It was about my sixth go, it was starting to rain and it was then or never. Had a real natural whoop at the top which is rare for me.
In reply to 1234None:
It's great. Soft for 7A. The other routes there are good too. Probably the best quarry in Matlock area.
> (In reply to craig d)
> [...]
> Supercrack on my list at the moment - I've heard it's excellent.
> [...]
> Supercrack on my list at the moment - I've heard it's excellent.
It's great. Soft for 7A. The other routes there are good too. Probably the best quarry in Matlock area.
In reply to Flicka:
Spectre is awesome. For some reason I remember doing that really clearly. Always wanted to do cockblock next to it too.
Only done three routes this year: The Promise, Kinder Downfall and Great North Road. All of which were awesome and Great North Road was probably the most epic amusingly!
Next route would be Freeborn Man.
Spectre is awesome. For some reason I remember doing that really clearly. Always wanted to do cockblock next to it too.
Only done three routes this year: The Promise, Kinder Downfall and Great North Road. All of which were awesome and Great North Road was probably the most epic amusingly!
Next route would be Freeborn Man.
In reply to Flicka:
The Knock E4/5 or Seamstress VS.
Routes i hope to do.
Life Assurance E6 and Strapadictomy E5
Bouldering.
Launching Pad.
Ones i want to do.
Deliverance and Captain Hook.
The Knock E4/5 or Seamstress VS.
Routes i hope to do.
Life Assurance E6 and Strapadictomy E5
Bouldering.
Launching Pad.
Ones i want to do.
Deliverance and Captain Hook.
In reply to Flicka:
If you're comfortable at top end VS, go for it.
You'll love it. Top pitch is the crux.
'Ding' is also very good at VS at Bosi.
If you're comfortable at top end VS, go for it.
You'll love it. Top pitch is the crux.
'Ding' is also very good at VS at Bosi.
In reply to Flicka: Does this have to be best rock route?
If not, then my favourite route so far this year was a new route we did on Ben Alder. The cycle into the bothy was exciting on a bike with no brakes too! The crux pitch had what I can only describe as a pure axe traverse. Nothing for your feet apart from sketchy snow on top of slab, but bommer axe placements in tiny patches of thank f*ck turf. The slab was about body height so you were at full stretch, with the slab dropping down to a sheer face below, so there was nothing but air below you feet. It was utterly, utterly sensational! Once off the slab, you keeked round a corner and into a groove with a big bulge at mid height, again with bommer axe placements (otherwise it was gonna be a lot harder than the grade IV4 we gave it!) This led up to a pitch of steep ice with a bulge half way up and was a sweet surprise right at the very top
One of those routes and days that I will remember for ever and ever! We topped out into an inversion with the tops of far away hills peeking through the clouds, followed by bagging Ben Alder itself in a gorgeous sunset and bagging the next munro in the dark
Rock wise, it would have to be King Bee on Creag Dubh. As soon as I saw the route I was totally inspired to climb it. One of those, 'it will be mine, oh yes!' type routes! lol!
I just really enjoyed the climbing there. It never felt physically strenuous but I found some of the moves perplexing and really enjoyed trying to solve the puzzle of how to move upwards and running it out more than I'm used to!
For single pitch, I really enjoyed Stegosaurus Rib at Cummingston the other day. The tide was fast coming in (and if you've read any of my posts about seacliffs, you'll gather that I'm not that fond of the sea!)
But I really wanted this route there and then, so I climbed it with the sea splashing at our feet (and my belayer up on a hanging belay inside a chimney of the route next door, lol!) The climbing is very pleasant and it's nice and airy at the top of the route when you move right onto the steep arete, but the holds are jugtastic!
If not, then my favourite route so far this year was a new route we did on Ben Alder. The cycle into the bothy was exciting on a bike with no brakes too! The crux pitch had what I can only describe as a pure axe traverse. Nothing for your feet apart from sketchy snow on top of slab, but bommer axe placements in tiny patches of thank f*ck turf. The slab was about body height so you were at full stretch, with the slab dropping down to a sheer face below, so there was nothing but air below you feet. It was utterly, utterly sensational! Once off the slab, you keeked round a corner and into a groove with a big bulge at mid height, again with bommer axe placements (otherwise it was gonna be a lot harder than the grade IV4 we gave it!) This led up to a pitch of steep ice with a bulge half way up and was a sweet surprise right at the very top
One of those routes and days that I will remember for ever and ever! We topped out into an inversion with the tops of far away hills peeking through the clouds, followed by bagging Ben Alder itself in a gorgeous sunset and bagging the next munro in the dark
Rock wise, it would have to be King Bee on Creag Dubh. As soon as I saw the route I was totally inspired to climb it. One of those, 'it will be mine, oh yes!' type routes! lol!
I just really enjoyed the climbing there. It never felt physically strenuous but I found some of the moves perplexing and really enjoyed trying to solve the puzzle of how to move upwards and running it out more than I'm used to!
For single pitch, I really enjoyed Stegosaurus Rib at Cummingston the other day. The tide was fast coming in (and if you've read any of my posts about seacliffs, you'll gather that I'm not that fond of the sea!)
But I really wanted this route there and then, so I climbed it with the sea splashing at our feet (and my belayer up on a hanging belay inside a chimney of the route next door, lol!) The climbing is very pleasant and it's nice and airy at the top of the route when you move right onto the steep arete, but the holds are jugtastic!
In reply to Flicka:
Ooooh, forgot the next bit!
Routes I have my eye on are Piggots Route on Beinn Eighe. The rock climbing on Beinn Eighe is totally superb and I also want to take the oppurtunity to check out any possible VS routes up there.
Also want to do Sword of Gideon soon!
Single pitch there are a billion and one VS's I have my eye on just now. The one I'd most like to do is Rebel's Groove at Hawkcraig.
Ooooh, forgot the next bit!
Routes I have my eye on are Piggots Route on Beinn Eighe. The rock climbing on Beinn Eighe is totally superb and I also want to take the oppurtunity to check out any possible VS routes up there.
Also want to do Sword of Gideon soon!
Single pitch there are a billion and one VS's I have my eye on just now. The one I'd most like to do is Rebel's Groove at Hawkcraig.
In reply to MorganPreecey:
The Strand at Gogarth - perfect intimidating line that is pretty straight forward when you get on it. Meditation at Chee Tor. First Blood at Govans East was good too.
Would like to get on Alcasan and Boulevard...
The Strand at Gogarth - perfect intimidating line that is pretty straight forward when you get on it. Meditation at Chee Tor. First Blood at Govans East was good too.
Would like to get on Alcasan and Boulevard...
Dude - north west arete is awesome, you'll love it especially if you carry on to do another route from blueberry ledge.
Shame about the forecast for the w/end - had a look round black crag on Monday and so fancied a trip back on Saturday - glass slipper has been my day dream for the last couple of nights!
Can't say a best route so far - only started climbin' again this year so every routes kicks it!
T
Shame about the forecast for the w/end - had a look round black crag on Monday and so fancied a trip back on Saturday - glass slipper has been my day dream for the last couple of nights!
Can't say a best route so far - only started climbin' again this year so every routes kicks it!
T
In reply to Flicka:
Good thread.
Are we allowed boulder problems? Finally ticking Pebble Wall (Almscliff) would probably be my best climbing moment so far this year. That or Vim at Shipley - two years to do a '5c' (ahem) arete. Yes, I really am that crap.
If we're limited to proper routes only then I'd struggle to choose between The Philistine on High Crag and Journey To The Centre Of The Earth on slate. Both awesome routes, slightly off the beaten track (Philistine less so) but long pitches with sustained high quality climbing from the ground to the belay in great settings, climbed with a great partner.
Next would be Roaring Silence on Scafell.
Good thread.
Are we allowed boulder problems? Finally ticking Pebble Wall (Almscliff) would probably be my best climbing moment so far this year. That or Vim at Shipley - two years to do a '5c' (ahem) arete. Yes, I really am that crap.
If we're limited to proper routes only then I'd struggle to choose between The Philistine on High Crag and Journey To The Centre Of The Earth on slate. Both awesome routes, slightly off the beaten track (Philistine less so) but long pitches with sustained high quality climbing from the ground to the belay in great settings, climbed with a great partner.
Next would be Roaring Silence on Scafell.
In reply to Flicka:
Good thread from me too.
Do I really have to choose one? I think I need at least two, maybe three...
For best/most interesting rock, line and experience, Regent Street at Millstone.
For most interestingly situated, could well be Guillemot's Groove on the Lleyn.
For best in terms of a nice long route but with quality climbing the whole way, Mur y Niwl linked with Pinnacle Wall.
Next route? Foil would be good...
Good thread from me too.
Do I really have to choose one? I think I need at least two, maybe three...
For best/most interesting rock, line and experience, Regent Street at Millstone.
For most interestingly situated, could well be Guillemot's Groove on the Lleyn.
For best in terms of a nice long route but with quality climbing the whole way, Mur y Niwl linked with Pinnacle Wall.
Next route? Foil would be good...
In reply to Flicka:
Left Unconquerable was the most satisfying, but I'll have to go back again to enjoy it !
Most enjoyable - several in El Chorro spring to mind, Amptrax, Irmchen and Tinto de Verano spring to mind
Most enjoyable route in the UK this year was cycling through Ecclesall woods and across Houndkirk Moor in the snow, at night !
Next route will probably be in Ailefroide, so something long, slabby and with just enough gear will do just fine
Left Unconquerable was the most satisfying, but I'll have to go back again to enjoy it !
Most enjoyable - several in El Chorro spring to mind, Amptrax, Irmchen and Tinto de Verano spring to mind
Most enjoyable route in the UK this year was cycling through Ecclesall woods and across Houndkirk Moor in the snow, at night !
Next route will probably be in Ailefroide, so something long, slabby and with just enough gear will do just fine
In reply to Flicka: Direct Route on Dinas Mot. Started out feeling really wobbly and got more confident as the pitches got harder. Really going well by the time I got to the crux and cruised it. Definately did my head some good. Even enjoyed the ab down.
In reply to Flicka:
Winter - Actually too many to choose from; I would have to give a shortlist instead ...
- North Route, Icefall Variation, on Bidean (first Grade III solo)
- Aonach Eagach in perfect conditions
- Dragonfly, III, on Aonach Beag in Alpine nick (again solo).
Rock - Tall Pall at Sheigra, the best single pitch Severe I have done.
Winter - Actually too many to choose from; I would have to give a shortlist instead ...
- North Route, Icefall Variation, on Bidean (first Grade III solo)
- Aonach Eagach in perfect conditions
- Dragonfly, III, on Aonach Beag in Alpine nick (again solo).
Rock - Tall Pall at Sheigra, the best single pitch Severe I have done.
In reply to Flicka:
Neb Buttress at Bamford. I reckon it's jumped in to my top ten; a really great route.
Neb Buttress at Bamford. I reckon it's jumped in to my top ten; a really great route.
In reply to Flicka: jean genie at trowbarrow. wanted to do it for years and never found anything so hard in my life!
In reply to Flicka:
Echo Beach at Tawiyan Crag here in the UAE in March. A new sport route that taken almost nine months from placing the top anchors (not easy: 25m up a 60m overhanging cliff) to final red-point. I have spent almost a cumulative month at the cliff over that period, though not only on that route.
Echo Beach at Tawiyan Crag here in the UAE in March. A new sport route that taken almost nine months from placing the top anchors (not easy: 25m up a 60m overhanging cliff) to final red-point. I have spent almost a cumulative month at the cliff over that period, though not only on that route.
In reply to Flicka: Three routes stick out for different reasons.
Conehead, Malham. First 8a+, I've probably put more effort into this than any other route and it's my first grade improvement for well over 10 years.
Baboo Baboo, Malham. Brilliant moves to a superb finish.
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry. A total surprise, fantastic climbing from the ground to the belay. Far better than the surroundings would have you believe. Worth the 2hr journey.
Andy F
Conehead, Malham. First 8a+, I've probably put more effort into this than any other route and it's my first grade improvement for well over 10 years.
Baboo Baboo, Malham. Brilliant moves to a superb finish.
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry. A total surprise, fantastic climbing from the ground to the belay. Far better than the surroundings would have you believe. Worth the 2hr journey.
Andy F
In reply to Flicka:
I've only done sport routes in Portland this year!
If I was to choose one I would say Great Barrier Reef, 7a+ at Blacknor Far South.
If only for the huge wacky stuck on 'coral' reef!
I've only done sport routes in Portland this year!
If I was to choose one I would say Great Barrier Reef, 7a+ at Blacknor Far South.
If only for the huge wacky stuck on 'coral' reef!
In reply to Flicka: probably Fan fair at Rhoscolyn HVS 4c, the weather was brilliant and the position is great too. just really enjoyed it. Steep climbing on big holds so I just relaxed and climbed with a huge smile on my face. And thats what its all about really. The route I most want to do next is possibly 'comes the dervish'. I have a week in wales next week (and it looks like a wet week ) so We'll have to wait and see....
In reply to Jus:
Shush, it was just a mid-life crisis and he is giving it another go, not being a quitter.
Shush, it was just a mid-life crisis and he is giving it another go, not being a quitter.
In reply to Flicka:
Himmelswillen at Wharncliffe for the free showboating opportunity low down (clipping a stuck cam whilst quite unnecessarily hanging off one hand ), and because it is a good value climb - proper climbing all the way up, no "one move wonder" gubbins
Himmelswillen at Wharncliffe for the free showboating opportunity low down (clipping a stuck cam whilst quite unnecessarily hanging off one hand ), and because it is a good value climb - proper climbing all the way up, no "one move wonder" gubbins
In reply to Blue Straggler: thats a good route, I did it recently but didn't look at the guide book and went direct...wondered why I was finding it a bit go'ey and cacking myself. When I actually finished the route and looked at the guide book I was to far right. Still good though
In reply to Flicka:
I think there are 3 routes joint equal for me so far this year as the best. The first was Kjokentrappa (WI4) in Rjukan as my first proper WI4 on a gorgeous day, the second was Piton Route at Avon in January and finally Clarion, also at Avon, last weekend as it had lovely moves up a blankish face.
For my next route.... I really fancy Insanity at Curbar.
I think there are 3 routes joint equal for me so far this year as the best. The first was Kjokentrappa (WI4) in Rjukan as my first proper WI4 on a gorgeous day, the second was Piton Route at Avon in January and finally Clarion, also at Avon, last weekend as it had lovely moves up a blankish face.
For my next route.... I really fancy Insanity at Curbar.
In reply to Flicka:
This is interesting - but very hard to answer! I think the route I probably enjoyed most so far this year was Gilber at Toix on the Costa Blanca. I've done it before, but this year I led a pitch that I had been too scared to even try and lead previously and another pitch that I'd previously backed off leading. It was lovely weather and I felt confident and calm and it was just good fun. The last time I climbed it, I was having a very bad day (in climbing terms, a particularly noteworthy part of a bad year) and I was scared and a bit miserable and failed to lead the pitch I wanted to lead. So that made doing it this year even more pleasant because of the stark contrast in how I felt while on the route (and afterwards).
Close second in terms of enjoyment is probably Commando Ridge at Bosigran. The route that has probably given me the most satisfaction though is the East Ridge of the Inaccessible Pinnacle, even though it's only a mod!
This is interesting - but very hard to answer! I think the route I probably enjoyed most so far this year was Gilber at Toix on the Costa Blanca. I've done it before, but this year I led a pitch that I had been too scared to even try and lead previously and another pitch that I'd previously backed off leading. It was lovely weather and I felt confident and calm and it was just good fun. The last time I climbed it, I was having a very bad day (in climbing terms, a particularly noteworthy part of a bad year) and I was scared and a bit miserable and failed to lead the pitch I wanted to lead. So that made doing it this year even more pleasant because of the stark contrast in how I felt while on the route (and afterwards).
Close second in terms of enjoyment is probably Commando Ridge at Bosigran. The route that has probably given me the most satisfaction though is the East Ridge of the Inaccessible Pinnacle, even though it's only a mod!
In reply to Flicka:
The Plum (E1 5b) at Tremadog. This was a great route involving lots of different climbing and had good gear all the way up. I took me quite a while to lead it. Some people who had been watching me tackle the offwitdh for quite a while cheered when I finally got past it. Definatly one of the besat routes I've ever done.
The Plum (E1 5b) at Tremadog. This was a great route involving lots of different climbing and had good gear all the way up. I took me quite a while to lead it. Some people who had been watching me tackle the offwitdh for quite a while cheered when I finally got past it. Definatly one of the besat routes I've ever done.
In reply to SGD:
What do you mean by "direct"? Presumably you used the main cracks? Do you mean you didn't use the left hand arete and little ledge? I'm pondering trying it without those. Someone commented on Rockfax that it's 4b with them and 4c without; I'd maybe go along with that - would be nice to test the theory.
> (In reply to Blue Straggler) thats a good route, I did it recently but didn't look at the guide book and went direct...wondered why I was finding it a bit go'ey and cacking myself. When I actually finished the route and looked at the guide book I was to far right. Still good though
What do you mean by "direct"? Presumably you used the main cracks? Do you mean you didn't use the left hand arete and little ledge? I'm pondering trying it without those. Someone commented on Rockfax that it's 4b with them and 4c without; I'd maybe go along with that - would be nice to test the theory.
In reply to teflonpete:
> (In reply to Flicka)
> Trad - Little Brown Jug VS5a at Bosigran. It's got a bit of everything, a rising traverse, thin slabby moves and a thuggy layback up top, all on rough Cornish Granite. Lovely
>
I was thinking of doing this in a couple of weeks. What is the current state of the "little brown jug" on pitch 3 or can you get wires in there these days? > Trad - Little Brown Jug VS5a at Bosigran. It's got a bit of everything, a rising traverse, thin slabby moves and a thuggy layback up top, all on rough Cornish Granite. Lovely
>
In reply to Blue Straggler: The start was direct, for want of a better description. I was near the right arete but not on it. sort of went straight up and the stepped left to the overhang and crack. Then at the top I didn't step on to the obvious ledge which I somehow didn't see and stayed more right. Don't know about 4b...felt harder to me but as always different strokes/different folks and all that.
In reply to davidwright: I take it you mean "the peg on pitch 3" ?
If so, then you need to be aware that it's an old peg on a sea cliff. You can (and really must) back it up with wires.
In answer to the OP - Magical Mystery Tour 1, solo in February. The swim at the end was quite bracing!
If so, then you need to be aware that it's an old peg on a sea cliff. You can (and really must) back it up with wires.
In answer to the OP - Magical Mystery Tour 1, solo in February. The swim at the end was quite bracing!
In reply to Flicka:
Two, I guess, both new routes. 'A Taste of Honey' had fascinating technical (and quite powerful) climbing. 'Tiny Goddess' was an exquisite arete, a lovely solo above the void.
Mick
Two, I guess, both new routes. 'A Taste of Honey' had fascinating technical (and quite powerful) climbing. 'Tiny Goddess' was an exquisite arete, a lovely solo above the void.
Mick
In reply to Flicka: It was of course a new one, led mostly by Nick Colton, a 450ft VS in Spain called Lost Boys.
In reply to Andy2:
well I was assuming that was how the route got its name, it seems too recent to be the product of a die hard glen miller fan.
Good. I was just wondering a few of these pegs do get replaced, others aren't needed any more, some are just leathal...
> (In reply to davidwright) I take it you mean "the peg on pitch 3" ?
>
>
well I was assuming that was how the route got its name, it seems too recent to be the product of a die hard glen miller fan.
> If so, then you need to be aware that it's an old peg on a sea cliff. You can (and really must) back it up with wires.
Good. I was just wondering a few of these pegs do get replaced, others aren't needed any more, some are just leathal...
In reply to Flicka:
Beta Crack at Wharncliffe last week end
I took someone out for their first taste of outdoor trad, we worked up from a Diff, V diff & HVD then the Sev (started on Alpha, ended on Beta!).
I had a massive grin on my face when I pulled up over the overhang, she had the same look when she eventually did the same. "Holy sh*T!" were her exact words when she reached the top.
oh and Aladdins Couloir in Feb which was my first ever proper winter route - great fun!
Beta Crack at Wharncliffe last week end
I took someone out for their first taste of outdoor trad, we worked up from a Diff, V diff & HVD then the Sev (started on Alpha, ended on Beta!).
I had a massive grin on my face when I pulled up over the overhang, she had the same look when she eventually did the same. "Holy sh*T!" were her exact words when she reached the top.
oh and Aladdins Couloir in Feb which was my first ever proper winter route - great fun!
In reply to craig d:
Good - I may have a slim chance of onsighting it then
Looking forward to a visit when I get back from Rodellar...
> (In reply to PeakDJ)
> [...]
>
> It's great. Soft for 7A.
> [...]
>
> It's great. Soft for 7A.
Good - I may have a slim chance of onsighting it then
> The other routes there are good too. Probably the best quarry in Matlock area.
Looking forward to a visit when I get back from Rodellar...
In reply to Flicka:
Did you do the harding slot pitch as well? Spectre is great (solid at HVS to boot)...
This year so far it'd probably be Kirkus' route at Craig yr ogof. 4 VS pitches in an amazing situation in the sun with 2 x stiff VS pitches. quite memorable really.. One of the best VS' going
Next up is Left Unconquerable this weekend i hope...
Did you do the harding slot pitch as well? Spectre is great (solid at HVS to boot)...
This year so far it'd probably be Kirkus' route at Craig yr ogof. 4 VS pitches in an amazing situation in the sun with 2 x stiff VS pitches. quite memorable really.. One of the best VS' going
Next up is Left Unconquerable this weekend i hope...
In reply to daveagriff:
Weirdo.
> (In reply to Flicka) Direct Route on Dinas Mot. Even enjoyed the ab down.
Weirdo.
In reply to Flicka:
Best route I've done so far this year would have to be Gladiator on Kalymnos... mostly because it really really pushed me, and it was a massive multi-day fight both physically and psychologically. I did start to think I wouldn't be capable of doing the moves, or pushing myself to the point of falling in order to link it. The feeling of elation combined with complete physical exhaustion on the redpoint, plus the whole emotional journey makes it memorable.
Next - I'd really like to get on Empire of the Sun, for more pumpy power-endurance action. I'm more and more enjoying the feeling of trying to sprint through the route to beat the slowly creeping pump... Realistically though It'll probably be finding a project at Portland, am dead psyched by England's Dreaming.
Best route I've done so far this year would have to be Gladiator on Kalymnos... mostly because it really really pushed me, and it was a massive multi-day fight both physically and psychologically. I did start to think I wouldn't be capable of doing the moves, or pushing myself to the point of falling in order to link it. The feeling of elation combined with complete physical exhaustion on the redpoint, plus the whole emotional journey makes it memorable.
Next - I'd really like to get on Empire of the Sun, for more pumpy power-endurance action. I'm more and more enjoying the feeling of trying to sprint through the route to beat the slowly creeping pump... Realistically though It'll probably be finding a project at Portland, am dead psyched by England's Dreaming.
In reply to ayuplass:
What? You mean you enjoyed that more than our day out on Fiacall Ridge? How can this be!?
It's always enjoyable seeing somebody respond like that to their first go at climbing or scrambling. I had a day out like that last November and it made my day to see somebody so chuffed at having achieved something that they never thought they would be able to do. It's great.
> (In reply to Flicka)
...> oh and Aladdins Couloir in Feb which was my first ever proper winter route - great fun!
What? You mean you enjoyed that more than our day out on Fiacall Ridge? How can this be!?
It's always enjoyable seeing somebody respond like that to their first go at climbing or scrambling. I had a day out like that last November and it made my day to see somebody so chuffed at having achieved something that they never thought they would be able to do. It's great.
In reply to Flicka:
Best is Plumber's Corner at Shining Cliff looks a bit manky but a wonderful climb criminally under-rated in the past. The one I've enjoyed most is difficult to choose... I really enjoyed the climbing on an unlisted line in the cave at Shining cliff (the side chiney just inside from the skylight with an exposed traverse to exit at the skylight, at about VS 4b), climbed as evening light was fading so hard to see but my partner got a bit pissed off with struggling in much darker conditios so the experience was flawed. Also an unlisted line up the left of the Neb at Eastwood...looked every bit an HVS and turned out to be a well protected climb on hidden holds in brilliant position.
Best is Plumber's Corner at Shining Cliff looks a bit manky but a wonderful climb criminally under-rated in the past. The one I've enjoyed most is difficult to choose... I really enjoyed the climbing on an unlisted line in the cave at Shining cliff (the side chiney just inside from the skylight with an exposed traverse to exit at the skylight, at about VS 4b), climbed as evening light was fading so hard to see but my partner got a bit pissed off with struggling in much darker conditios so the experience was flawed. Also an unlisted line up the left of the Neb at Eastwood...looked every bit an HVS and turned out to be a well protected climb on hidden holds in brilliant position.
In reply to Flicka:
best routes so far? the awards go to...
best line - 1st pitch of atlantis - castell helen (2nd)
best lead - crux pitch of blanco - castell helen
best route - great gully - craig y ysfa
best bloddering - a snatched afternoon at stanage, bright sunshine, nobody else there, entire edge to myself
best routes so far? the awards go to...
best line - 1st pitch of atlantis - castell helen (2nd)
best lead - crux pitch of blanco - castell helen
best route - great gully - craig y ysfa
best bloddering - a snatched afternoon at stanage, bright sunshine, nobody else there, entire edge to myself
In reply to Flicka:
Best so far this year would be one of two:
Xavier's Wall at Coastguard on Portland
Blue-Faced Booby in Wallsend on Portland (though I TR'd this)
Next - Laws Traverse at Lulworth - that would mean that summer has officially begun for me.
Best so far this year would be one of two:
Xavier's Wall at Coastguard on Portland
Blue-Faced Booby in Wallsend on Portland (though I TR'd this)
Next - Laws Traverse at Lulworth - that would mean that summer has officially begun for me.
In reply to Flicka:
Moonflower.
Tis mint
franco
> When I say "best", I mean...which have you enjoyed the most (can be in hindsight :-p) really and I'd like to know why, too!
> (I just feel like making there be a climbingy thread at the top of the board :-D )
>
> And...what route, given the choice, would you do next? (Weather being no object. Limit this to with in the UK, rock routes if you please!)
>
> Mine:
>
> Best route so far this year--Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan. Found my first HVS 5a onsight lead (the second pitch on the route) exciting, challenging, but not scary enough to colour my trousers and really enjoyed the whole route. (We only did the independent bit, didn't finish with Nea.)
>
> Route I'd most like to do next-- Well, the next route I do will be my 500th so I'd like it to be Really good...Eliminate A would do nicely! But, given the forecast for my trip to the Lakes this weekend, I'd settle for any good route on White Ghyll/Gimmer/Pavey (unless its seeping like a seepy thing). White Ghyll Wall comes to mind, in fact. As does North West Arete, I think it is.
>
> Over to you, UKC!
> (I just feel like making there be a climbingy thread at the top of the board :-D )
>
> And...what route, given the choice, would you do next? (Weather being no object. Limit this to with in the UK, rock routes if you please!)
>
> Mine:
>
> Best route so far this year--Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan. Found my first HVS 5a onsight lead (the second pitch on the route) exciting, challenging, but not scary enough to colour my trousers and really enjoyed the whole route. (We only did the independent bit, didn't finish with Nea.)
>
> Route I'd most like to do next-- Well, the next route I do will be my 500th so I'd like it to be Really good...Eliminate A would do nicely! But, given the forecast for my trip to the Lakes this weekend, I'd settle for any good route on White Ghyll/Gimmer/Pavey (unless its seeping like a seepy thing). White Ghyll Wall comes to mind, in fact. As does North West Arete, I think it is.
>
> Over to you, UKC!
Moonflower.
Tis mint
franco
In reply to Dom Whillans:
What? All 6 miles of it???
> best bloddering - a snatched afternoon at stanage, bright sunshine, nobody else there, entire edge to myself
What? All 6 miles of it???
In reply to 1234None:
i drove the full length before deciding where to drop my mat... the whole place was deserted! i had to weight my mat with rocks to stop the bugger from turning into a kite, but even so you'd have thought someone else would have been up there.
apart from that... franco's back! how you doing fella?
i drove the full length before deciding where to drop my mat... the whole place was deserted! i had to weight my mat with rocks to stop the bugger from turning into a kite, but even so you'd have thought someone else would have been up there.
apart from that... franco's back! how you doing fella?
In reply to davidwright:
The peg looks a bit old and rusty but it would take a lob and if I remember rightly, the crux isn't far above it. Back it up as soon as you can though. Good luck.
The peg looks a bit old and rusty but it would take a lob and if I remember rightly, the crux isn't far above it. Back it up as soon as you can though. Good luck.
In reply to Flicka:
Debauchery on High Tor. I'd been wanting to get out to High Tor for a couple of years but circumstances always seemed to conspire against me, so it was great to simply get to visit this fantastic crag. Debauchery is one of the routes I really wanted to do and it didn't disappoint. Lovely day, classic route, great company and I even got to lead both pitches - what more could one ask for?
Debauchery on High Tor. I'd been wanting to get out to High Tor for a couple of years but circumstances always seemed to conspire against me, so it was great to simply get to visit this fantastic crag. Debauchery is one of the routes I really wanted to do and it didn't disappoint. Lovely day, classic route, great company and I even got to lead both pitches - what more could one ask for?
In reply to SonyaD:
Sword of Gideon is excellent. I was far less impressed by the climbing on Hamilton's Route on the Central Buttresses, I have to say, and thats putting it very mildly indeed. If you're after VS routes and haven't done it yet then I still think that Grooved Arete up on the Buchaille if you do the big 50m pitch is one of my favourite pieces of VS climbing ever. Fionn Buttress on Carnmore would be the other one in my top three from my albeit limited Scottish rock climbing experience.
My favourite route this year is probably Tower of Babel. Its a 70m HVS pinnacle we did the FA of in Morocco. That or one of the other new routes we did on that trip. Oodles of low-grade good quality new routeing in a great setting.
My next big tick, I don't know. I'm tempted to say Still Waters Run Deep, a *** 7b at Cheddar, cos its got great moves and would be a big step up for me. Theres so much trad I want to do its hard to pick one out, whereas on sport that stands above the crowd.
AJM
Sword of Gideon is excellent. I was far less impressed by the climbing on Hamilton's Route on the Central Buttresses, I have to say, and thats putting it very mildly indeed. If you're after VS routes and haven't done it yet then I still think that Grooved Arete up on the Buchaille if you do the big 50m pitch is one of my favourite pieces of VS climbing ever. Fionn Buttress on Carnmore would be the other one in my top three from my albeit limited Scottish rock climbing experience.
My favourite route this year is probably Tower of Babel. Its a 70m HVS pinnacle we did the FA of in Morocco. That or one of the other new routes we did on that trip. Oodles of low-grade good quality new routeing in a great setting.
My next big tick, I don't know. I'm tempted to say Still Waters Run Deep, a *** 7b at Cheddar, cos its got great moves and would be a big step up for me. Theres so much trad I want to do its hard to pick one out, whereas on sport that stands above the crowd.
AJM
In reply to AJM: Am just looking through your flickr photos. That HVS roof that Steve is leading and Tom is seconding looks so improbable for that grade, looks amazing! In fact, these crags looks lovely! Is it sandstone?
In reply to SonyaD:
Quartzite, lots of lovely quartzite.
The town you stay at has granite near it, but most of the main climbing is done on the quartzite massif a short way north.
It does look very improbable....... it was one of the relatively few routes we repeated, and to be honest I can't remember whether they agreed with the given grade, but i think they did.
AJM
Quartzite, lots of lovely quartzite.
The town you stay at has granite near it, but most of the main climbing is done on the quartzite massif a short way north.
It does look very improbable....... it was one of the relatively few routes we repeated, and to be honest I can't remember whether they agreed with the given grade, but i think they did.
AJM
In reply to Anonymous: Get yoerself re-registered franco!
In reply to 1234None: Its a good E5 6b. It should never have been bolted.
In reply to Flicka:
Best route so far has to be the one I did last week on the crag we stumbled upon only 3 minutes walk from our new place in the Ariège. Turns out the 'crag at the bottom of the garden' has already been equipped!
The line we chose went at about 7c+, but as there's no topo either printed or online that's just my best estimate.
Route I'm keen to do next is its neighbour - the right hand variant which shares the first couple of bolts. Looks to be maybe 8a+, and if the first route is anything to go by it should be a veritable feast of sustained crimp-nastiness!
Best route so far has to be the one I did last week on the crag we stumbled upon only 3 minutes walk from our new place in the Ariège. Turns out the 'crag at the bottom of the garden' has already been equipped!
The line we chose went at about 7c+, but as there's no topo either printed or online that's just my best estimate.
Route I'm keen to do next is its neighbour - the right hand variant which shares the first couple of bolts. Looks to be maybe 8a+, and if the first route is anything to go by it should be a veritable feast of sustained crimp-nastiness!
In reply to Flicka:
Left Wall
Left Wall
In reply to Flicka:
Probably Aphasia at Sergeant Crag Slabs. Really interesting climbing on funky grippy bobbly rock with weird gear and some scary moments. Was also cool to finally feel like I was back to climbing trad well again after buggering my ankle up.
Route to do next... well, I'm keen to get back to Robin Proctor's to try Forever Young again and I spent some time ogling Against the Grain today at Malham (though judging by how badly I got spanked by Rose Coronary it might be a while until I'm fit enough) but as it's Pembroke next weekend it'll probably be some trad limestone VS that will no doubt turn me into a gibbering wreck!
Probably Aphasia at Sergeant Crag Slabs. Really interesting climbing on funky grippy bobbly rock with weird gear and some scary moments. Was also cool to finally feel like I was back to climbing trad well again after buggering my ankle up.
Route to do next... well, I'm keen to get back to Robin Proctor's to try Forever Young again and I spent some time ogling Against the Grain today at Malham (though judging by how badly I got spanked by Rose Coronary it might be a while until I'm fit enough) but as it's Pembroke next weekend it'll probably be some trad limestone VS that will no doubt turn me into a gibbering wreck!
In reply to Flicka:
Probably "Gorilla, Gorilla" at Hutton Roof VS 4c. I did a bit of work on it before I managed it without a bouldering mat lol. The crux is at that start if anyone knows Ape Wall! Dunno prob. V1? I was pleased to get it anyway!
Now I need to get the rest of 'em!
Probably "Gorilla, Gorilla" at Hutton Roof VS 4c. I did a bit of work on it before I managed it without a bouldering mat lol. The crux is at that start if anyone knows Ape Wall! Dunno prob. V1? I was pleased to get it anyway!
Now I need to get the rest of 'em!
In reply to Flicka: Scavenger at 3 cliffs bay on Gower. FIrst VS, first tidal route, first trip to Gower. Sunny day, great route (if a little polished) and a generally great trad day out. Ranks well up there with top days out ever.
In reply to Flicka: I've changed my best single pitch route for this year! Was up in the NW of Scotland over the weekend and led a VS at Jetty Buttress called Charlie's Corner that I've been wanting to do for yonks and it was fabulous! A text book corner, much bridging and palming, followed by sensational after sensational top moves, fantastic!
In reply to hereforded:
Hombre @ easter island gully area, gogarth
Over looked it for years but its a fantastic line, very enjoyable.
also climbed on holyhead mountain this year for the first time...always thought it a bit pointless and a waste of time when you have main cliff just around the corner.
but its actually quite good, well worth a visit.
Hombre @ easter island gully area, gogarth
Over looked it for years but its a fantastic line, very enjoyable.
also climbed on holyhead mountain this year for the first time...always thought it a bit pointless and a waste of time when you have main cliff just around the corner.
but its actually quite good, well worth a visit.
In reply to SonyaD: What no sea cliff HVS ? ....you disapoint me Sonya :P
In reply to mux: Lol! I think I'm kidding myself about HVS, most of the ones I seem to second are fecking hard and I just don't think I have the endurance to hold on to stuff like that *and* place gear. Just seem so, so much more sustained than VS. But I will get there, VS's are feeling more and more easy to lead, but I need to do some more VS 5a's to get used to leading 5a. I seem to manage one or two 5a moves on lead, but add more together as per HVS and then I start struggling. But I'm managing around 75% of HVS5a's on second without running out of steam so I'll get there.
We were actually going to go to Reiff, but high winds meant choppy seas <and it was a bit showery there> so we were tempted further South by the sun.
We were actually going to go to Reiff, but high winds meant choppy seas <and it was a bit showery there> so we were tempted further South by the sun.
In reply to Flicka:
Swastika on the Etive slabs, because it built up into a mighty struggle that only gave as you pulled over the top. There are mega moves to do, the 5c bit was really tough and the 6a was harder.
Jonnie
Swastika on the Etive slabs, because it built up into a mighty struggle that only gave as you pulled over the top. There are mega moves to do, the 5c bit was really tough and the 6a was harder.
Jonnie
In reply to Flicka:
Only done a handful of routes this year so my favourite climb so far is actually a boulder problem - Le Cyclops in Font.
Only done a handful of routes this year so my favourite climb so far is actually a boulder problem - Le Cyclops in Font.
In reply to Flicka:
Triangle Buttress Arete, only VD but a really really enjoyable route to do when it's snowing...!!!
Well recommend it even if your climbing the e grades...!!
Ollie.
Triangle Buttress Arete, only VD but a really really enjoyable route to do when it's snowing...!!!
Well recommend it even if your climbing the e grades...!!
Ollie.
In reply to Flicka:
Either Ratbag at Froggat via Tody's wall, which was really enjoyable all the way and well worth doing, or Munich Climb on Tryfan, climbed fast in grim conditions in order to get back to the BMC AGM on time.
Dunno about next, currently recovering from a bike crash so unlikely to do anything hard for a while. I'd like my next significant route to be Left Wall, Gogarth, Vector or Comes the Dervish if I make it to Wales as planned.
Either Ratbag at Froggat via Tody's wall, which was really enjoyable all the way and well worth doing, or Munich Climb on Tryfan, climbed fast in grim conditions in order to get back to the BMC AGM on time.
Dunno about next, currently recovering from a bike crash so unlikely to do anything hard for a while. I'd like my next significant route to be Left Wall, Gogarth, Vector or Comes the Dervish if I make it to Wales as planned.
In reply to hereforded:
I did Scavenger at Easter after coveting it since last August. Lovely route, a gentle VS but good value, just got to be careful not to drop a hex on Joe Public's head as they're walking through the arch!
Did you do the HS4bs, Perseverance and Left Edge?
> (In reply to Flicka) Scavenger at 3 cliffs bay on Gower. FIrst VS, first tidal route, first trip to Gower. Sunny day, great route (if a little polished) and a generally great trad day out. Ranks well up there with top days out ever.
I did Scavenger at Easter after coveting it since last August. Lovely route, a gentle VS but good value, just got to be careful not to drop a hex on Joe Public's head as they're walking through the arch!
Did you do the HS4bs, Perseverance and Left Edge?
In reply to Flicka: south groove at trewavas a few weeks back. Why? Because I had my eye on it for a while and its my second E1 but the first one that felt like a real E1.
Closely followed by red pointing my first 6c+ when I've never climbed harder than 6b before, two weeks back, portland. The route was silent but deadly, blacknor south.
Next route...dunno really. Maybe Bishops rib at chair ladder or variety show at bosi.
Closely followed by red pointing my first 6c+ when I've never climbed harder than 6b before, two weeks back, portland. The route was silent but deadly, blacknor south.
Next route...dunno really. Maybe Bishops rib at chair ladder or variety show at bosi.
In reply to Flicka:
I really enjoyed "Grotto slab variant" at burbage. It is a contender for "easiest severe in the world", but the step and final arete are brilliant.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=114836
I'm hoping to have a new best route of the year by monday
I really enjoyed "Grotto slab variant" at burbage. It is a contender for "easiest severe in the world", but the step and final arete are brilliant.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=114836
I'm hoping to have a new best route of the year by monday
In reply to Flicka: The Directissima at Kilnsey was a great trip out, esp if you continue past the intermediate chains and follow the groove up and left to finish. Pumpy, sustained, great position and really long (for a sport route, obviously). Pretty much every move eng. 5b/c.
Next route I'm really looking forward to is The Swan, Roaches Lower tier
Next route I'm really looking forward to is The Swan, Roaches Lower tier
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