In reply to biscuit:
Thanks again Biscuit.
Short term goals - before end of May
· Redpoint a 7c indoor or outdoors. (keyboard wall)
· 7b route pyramid
· Improve stamina with continued power endurance training so I can manage circuit on 45 board at the wall.
· Continue core gymnastic work. Targets: 10 pull ups in straddle lever position, hold tuck planche for 30 seconds. Do 5 tuck planche push ups.
· Flexibility: side splits flat on floor.
Medium term - by end of August
· Body Machine, Want out, Sardine, Tin of & consolidate by flashing some 7a and 7b’s in either the Peak or Portland.
· Campus 1-4-7 on small rungs
· Boulder a V8
· Hold front lever for 5 seconds, advanced tuck planche for 15 seconds. 5 handstand pushups.
· Flexibility: side splits with chest to the floor.
Long term goals - end of 2009/Beginning of 2010
· Fr7c+ redpoint.
· Choose an 8a to start working on (begin linking)
· Boulder a V9
· Maintain flexibility
· Make progress on West Side Story.
· Hold small rung on campus board with one hand.
ACHIEVED:
Weekend to font in February get another 7a and try some harder stuff. Jet Set Font 7a.
Active hip flexibility: improve high stepping: be able to lift foot to level with pelvis.
Hold straddle front lever for 1 minute
M: Warmed up with some handstands and mobility work. Did some light traversing. Got on new problems up to V7 though still could not manage the V6 (got V7 though and very close on the V8). Did core session by completing GB WOD. Did slow lock off ladders on big slopey rungs. Finished with some stretching. Lock offs are still feeling solid!
Tu: Warmed up with some handstands and mobility work. Did GB WOD plus extra ring training. Did not manage to do any climbing as I was working. Finished with some stretching. Did some route setting so not strictly rest as I was trying the moves.
W: Rest as I was working. Was running some coaching sessions so not strictly rest.
Th: Beastmaker session working on repeaters on varying grips. Also did one arm pyramid session ala Beastmaker guidelines, this felt not too bad. Using pinkies though feels slightly tweeky and for now I am going to use my ring finger as assistance for the lower reps. Did some core stuff involving handstands, Planche work and L sits, Straddle L sits too.
F: Nothing as wife was in hospital getting knee op. Rest
S: Not much as I was looking after the crocked wife! Managed to do some core stuff between being a slave! Got one hour on the Beastmaker managed to do some repeaters.
Su: Nothing being a slave again.
Weeks conclusions: Got two sessions on the Beastmaker and feel this is what I need to do a few times a week. Week disrupted due to wife’s knee so not too much structure and it may be a bit like this while she is broken so will get done what I can. Also did not manage to get as much core work done as I would have liked but considering how busy I was managed to fit some training in. Did hardly any climbing which was annoying!
This weeks plan:
I aim to do a core session on 4 days (Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri working on doing the Levers and Planches at a minimum) Do Finger Board session on 3 days and lock off work (slow campussing) Work the problems I have not finished and get back on board. Fit in at least 1 Strength endurance session. Continue working on flexibility.