UKC

Direct finish to slingshot according to planetfear, anyone know anything else??

In reply to Slab Happy: So according to that you climb a Font 8a+/b boulder problem and then an E8/9 to top out. Much respect me thinks.

In reply to Graeme: Well, you know, I was just waiting for a cold spell and the end of my exams and Adrian snatches it from under my nose etc etc

In reply to Slab Happy:

What an incredibly curious news report -
"Adrian Berry, editor of planetFear has climbed a direct finish to Sling Shot at Froggatt. The route first climbs Sling Shot, before taking the sustained headwall directly above. More details as we get them!".

More details as we get them???!!? ...er, aren't you the editor? Have you tried asking yourself for the details?

Still good effort Adrian for the climbing.

Alan

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:


I thought that as well. But I just kept my gob shut.

Anyway, to use a popular phrase...what's he ever done on grit?

M

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Handbags at forty paces

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:

I expect he's out on the piss celebrating, and I don't blame him.

Great stuff. And confirms him as one of the uk'S "top" climbers (as Bridget would say).

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:


Does that mean that Adrian pays himself the £5 promised for breaking news?

In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:

Doesn't Matt Heason run the planet climbing part of the site with the news etc....?

Tho still agree with you, what would you ask if you heard that news? hmm,,,,,,GRADE for starters!

Si

In reply to Simon:

They are prolly waiting to amass material for a full media onslaught. A video of the ascent, full first person account, photographs (they may have to go back to take more and make sure they got all the sponsors logos showing for the full photo incentive deal), interview (by Shane of course) and quotes from climbing luminaries that put this ascent into a historical perspective (prolly Dawes...he's al;ways good for a whacky sound bite).

Then there's e-commerce to think about.....auctioning off the underpants that Adrian was wearing on the ascent (hopefully he was wearing some).....T-shirts, baseball caps, autographed photographs....

I suggest the name "ShitScared.com" E10 7a

The little news item was just a taster to wet people's appetites. And they purposely made it a tad controverial so that RT would start talking about it and create a bit of a buzz.

In fact we are all part of the marketing plan...

Mick

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

But of course more than that. With such a value-laden news item they must fullfill the Planet Fear mission statement and strategic plan. Full leverage must be excercised, products and services must be boot-strapped to the ascent and any orphan products must be liberated. The potential for zero-sum marketing must be taken advantage of.

I see Adrian's ascent as a great business opportunity and it should not be wasted.

I'm sure Shane has a handle on this and is busy working away, his crisp starched white shirt damp with sweat and his brow furrowed as he punches the numbers into his calculator. He knows he's on the verge of financial independence and soon to be liberated from 9 to 5 drudgery.

Let's get excited and walk the walk as well as talking the talk.

Let's roll dudes. This is the big one.

Mick

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:Of course you could just say 'congratulations' and then take the piss, that way it would look less like you are in a cat fight and more like you are trying to be funny.

In reply to Jonathan T:

Sorry JT. Good effort Adrian.

I'm always in awe of high athetic performance on rock.

M

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:Which reminds me; good effort Adrian.

In reply to Jonathan T:

On the Planet climbing website, Adrian thinks its E10....

Good effort with Froggatt's hardest route after Ben Heasons Ozbound at E9.

Froggatt finally has some of the hardest routes in the Peak....

Si

Er, cheers.

Actually Shane wrote that news report after being told by someone who was texted my my belayer - apparently it was on the site before I got back to the car - I've only just got back from a coaching weekend at Portland, and not had the chance to do any thinking about names or anything. And yes, Matt Heason edits planetFear's news.

In reply to Graeme: so you do some hard boulder prob to a rest and your rope/harness is then thrown to you for the lead portion...

is this then the Grit version of Fred Rouhling's Akira?

In reply to Dru:

It isn't chipped though

M

In reply to Dru:

At the risk of inviting the wrath of RT on my head it doesn't sound like particularly great line, am I wrong?

In reply to Tyler:

How many climable 'great lines' are there left on grit? Of course it's not Master's Edge, but it's another very obvious gap that's been plugged. Good effort to Adrian for getting it done.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

I suppose the ones that spring to mind are the ones at the end of Hard Grit (though I guess some of these might be stretching the decription) plus a few in Yorkshire (and one in Lancs). I was also going to raise a humble question about grading a route of this nature but suspect it would decsend into a slanging match.

I predict the last 3 star route on grit to receive a first ascent will turn out to be Meshuga. Can't think of any lines remaining with as much 'stage presence'.

In reply to Jon Read:

What about the wall left of New Statesman, the arete at Thorn Crag, Wizard Ridge or the arete groove thing on the Great Flake boulder at Caley? Not trying to be a smart arse BTW just interested what you think? As for Meshuga, am I right in thinking the way it was finally climbed is not the way other people had envisioned the true, last great problem to go?

In reply to Jon Read:

The Prow, Thorn Crag. It's meaty!

Other than that probably right, although the rib R of Great Flake at Caley I at least think is amazing.

By the way, awesome job Adrian. Nuff respect, Slingshot is nails enough, never mind the upper wall!

In reply to Tyler:

Good choices! Spooky. Forgot the Ilkley one, its cool aswell.

In reply to all;

Had a look at right arete of Mindbomb, very independent, no gear very hard, and someone else has also noticed its potential. Messers Dunne?

Probable E9 7a

In reply to Adam:

>>Messers Dunne?

Bloody hell is ther more than one, that should ensure something gets climbed this winter!

In reply to Adam:

You mean highball V11........

M

In reply to Dru: No, my feet rarely get much past five foot above the ground. Yes I am soft, and happy to admit it.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Don't f*cking start!

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

I was wandering around Curbar in the summer looking at one horrific, blank, hanging face after another, in the region of Smiling Buttress/End of The Affair, thinking, "bloody hell, there's a lot of stuff still to be done here".

There's tons and tons of stuff on grit still to be done. A lot of it looks ridiculously impossible now, so doesn't get considered. I remember thinking that standing at the bottom of Scritto's Republic, years ago.

In reply to Dom Orsler:

Ok Dom....maybe V12 then.

I seem to remember that you started it anyways.

M

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Clearly a very hard route and a very fine effort, but I will confess that the thing that caught my eye in the UKC report was the comment that 'he had a harness thrown up to him for the F7c+ climbing on the headwall'. Respect! I have trouble putting on my harness and not falling over whilst standing on the ground, never mind halfway up an E10.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

I was referring to your remark about Akira. This was mentioned before, and simultaneously on two other climbing forums, one in the good ol US of A and one in Canada.

All three came to the conclusion that Akira had a flake glued in place (reinforced, not reattached), but that was the only manner in which it had been altered.

And this came from people who'd been there.

Have you?

In reply to Dom Orsler:

I stand corrected Dom...reinforced flake.

M

In reply to Tyler:

Aha! Excellent...

Wall left of New Statesman clearly isn;t in the same league of line as NS itself, so not a *** route. It's only defined as a line by the lines either side of it.

Never seen arete at THorn Crag, hasn't this just been done by Adrian Jebb(?).

Wizard ridge might be a contender, but only if climbed ALL the way up it direct and not from half way up a corner.

Can't remember the arete R of Great Flake at caley, could be a contender...?

I think everyone looked at the prow at Black rocks and thought it was possible, but bloody hard, going straight up. There's been brush marks on it for years. Meshuga is simply an elegant solution to this and takes the 'line of weakness' up the prow: no problem with that.

Go on then, anymore?

In reply to Jon Read:

that big lovely blank wall at lawrencefield.

In reply to Jon Read:

Wall left of Early Riser - Earl
Right arete of Mind Bomb - Earl
Loaded Direct - Earl
Overhanging crack at Rylstone
Wall in Bur south quarry

In reply to daveP:

I know 2 very good climbers who couldnt even get to crux

E9 7b anyone?

In reply to Adam:
Don't mean to be narky but I struggle to see how most of those suggested lines are worthy of *** considering that in the same areas are Early Riser (now THAT is a line), Wellington Crack, and Parthian, Braille Trail, Messiah, etc. Remind me (once more) where that crack is at Rylestone?

In reply to Jon Read:

Arete above Elder Crack?

In reply to TimB:
Hmm... nearly. (God I'm a hard, miserable sod to please aren't I?) Compare it with End of the Affair, or archangel, or Ulysess, or ... ? Not quite there: 2 stars.

In reply to Jon Read:

I know this is going to seem like nit picking but, well, you started it The wall left of NS may well not be in the same league as NS but then NS is arguably the most striking line on grit, are you going to remove the three star rating for Walewska and Tufted Crack on the same crag cos they're not in the same league as NS. Is Right Wall only defined by Cemetery Gates and Cenotaph corner?

Don't think the arete at Thorn Crag has been done, very high grade been mooted for this.

Your comments on wizard Ridge remind me that the bottom of Loaded is yet to be done, are there any holds?

I know for certain one person who TRed the prow in its entirety before the FA of Meshuga and I think Leo Houlding did as well.

I'm sure there are more but I don't really do grit, or climbing at all come to that!

In reply to Tyler:

Is the wall left of Early Riser climable and is it enough of an indipendent line to warrant ***

In reply to Tyler:
Yes and Yes

In reply to Jon Read: John you gotta remember there are routes of every grade given *** which have much less outstanding lines than a lot of the examples given above. Line isn't the only criteria for a *** route.

In reply to Adam:

How hard etc, or have I just blown the gaff on some secret project?

In reply to Tyler:

Prob be the first E11 on grit, dont think anymoves easier than 6c and very high, crux being maybe 7b?

A few people have tried it on a toppy and no success. Think Dunne has been out it too.

In reply to Jon Read:


No, Adrian did the line to the right, a beautiful bulging seam that stands proud like a giant crusader's shield, called Shipman's Surgery E7 6b. Its amazing. The prow hasn't even been tried to my knowledge but is blatantly nails (yet doable) and death on a stick (guaranteed!). Ooohh...

In reply to Jon Read:

Surely you need to climb a route before you can decide how many stars it deserves?

In reply to Simon Caldwell:
'Course not! This is an idle speculation thread...

In reply to Jon Read: The best person to answer your question about lines of the future of very high quality would probably be someone likely to send them, like Adrian Berry, the hero of this thread. As he has obviously been reading this thread (see above), I am therefore asking him to divulge.

Of course, I don't expect him to, as they're probably guarded secrets.

A lof of superb lines are not that obvious until someone sends them.

I'm looking forward to seeing Wizzard Ridge done from the bottom up, and not from the corner, although I can't see it being done in the next five years.

Any guesses as to the grade? Direct version, I mean.

E12 7c? Death height. Solo. 7c moves? Anyone?

In reply to Neil K:

Me and two of me mates had a few goes at leading the Adrian Jebb route on Thorn Crag last year. Mega route. Didnt think it would be long before someone did it. The prow does look meaty.

In reply to Dom Orsler: I heard that its E12 7c from the corner!

Project to go: Mmm most of the good ones are done. Arete above Elder Crack - very very hard to get to the arete then very easy - E8 7b? Poor climbing really, not nearly as good as it looks.

Cratcliffe Groove - sounds like 7b by the fact that if it was easier it would have been done - could be reasonably protected.

Arete at far left hand end of Millstone - bit of a secret oops, I give up - 7b climbing with a miserable landing - don't think it's ever been climbed - Johnny said he was close, but it's not that hard to get 'close'

That wall at Laurencefield - not looked at it closely.

A few projects at Moorside Rocks (sorry miles) - really hard bouldery climbing, the easiest one was just done at E8 6c by miles gibson.

Short but sick, with poor landing is Direct Start to Windjammer at Burbage North - tried it years ago, but failed. Maybe try it again. At the same crag - line near Living in Oxford - not the one Miles Gibson did.

Curbar - everything around Smiling Buttress - have tried, maybe worth another look - not death routes.

Slab right of Wilkinson's Wall at Rivelin, free beer for life sort of challenge - could be a few other lines in the quarry but percy has probably done them by now.


That should keep you going for a while

In reply to Adrian:

Just looked on the database and it seems the wall between Atherton Bros and Phoenix has not got a route on it yet.

In reply to All:

I must say I think this debate far better than the grade thing on PlanetFear.

Oh, Nice one Adrian.

In reply to Adrian:

The Wall at Lawrencefield has been heavily brushed and has been climbed on both aretes/out right on the left side.

A line also goes just to the left of the right arete, but the middle looks impossible to most so therefore possible for someone......No gear, poor holds getting scarcer....

if it is ever done its gotta be E11 or thereabouts.

I also came close to that arete at Millstone (I stood beneath it).....looks like it needs a bit of a group to udge each other on until Malcolm Smith does it or something...

BTW, well done Adrian, having looked at the line numerous times & know what the headwall looks like, who cares if its got a ledge.........which other Peak E10 has a ledge eh?

Si

In reply to Simon:

E11?! No E9 but hard tech grade and not very high. Gets easier before top aswell. Lack of footholds make it hard, but will go...

In reply to Adam:Why don't you just use your normal login? Surely there aren't two Adams with encyclopaedic knowledge about hard routes?

In reply to Adrian:


I remember reading somewhere that this had been done.

In reply to Adrian:
Moorside rocks projects: yes a few things to do here - all short and hard, just about routes. I brushed up most of the lines a few years ago and tried the main one that Gibson has just done, but couldn't touch it. Praps it's easier if you're taller (than me, and stronger, etc). Settled with the arete to the right (brazil).

One very obvious project is the (RH) direct start to the finish of One Step Beyond, horrible landing. I suspect Mr Arran has inspected this?

Don't forget the wall right of Ulysses but with nae grips its hardly a project....yet!

In reply to Jon Read:
Photo just been put up at http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/news/item.html?id=894
of Miles on his route. Is he climbing the arete? The position of his spotters suggests so. I thought his route went up the front face, via that weird crucifix you can see. He looks like he's climbed the left side of the arete; is this right?

Or
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/news/item.html?id=893

In reply to del_35:

Different route, crag and climber to the one Jon was talking about but thatnks for the "correction" anyway.

Just pointing it out if no-ones read it

In reply to del_35:
Oh I see, sorry