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Dyno Projects around Peak District!

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skyweekes 31 May 2009
Hello all! i will be traveling once again to cliffhanger this year for the dyno comp and will be staying until July 15th. I had an amazing time bouldering and dynoing in the peak district last year and was wondering if anybody knows of any huge dyno projects around there? I am looking for a bouldering/dynoing partner for July 13th and 14th. Thanks!
 Silum 31 May 2009
In reply to skyweekes:

On lead or just bouldering? I know of some pretty awesome stuff at Ramshaw, but its all on lead. Theres a few at Stanage but im not sure of any humongeous'projects'
 PTatts 31 May 2009
In reply to skyweekes:
Go to ukbouldering.com, probably get a better response from there.
 Oli 31 May 2009
In reply to skyweekes:
Boulderingwise - The dyno project at Wimberry.

Routeswise, all though not a project, Tom Briggs' routes Boom Bip (Ramshaw) and The Devil is in the Detail (Black Rocks) are unrepeated as far as I know.
 benj_d 31 May 2009
In reply to skyweekes:

Hi Skyler,

You may be interested in a unrepeated font 8a+ dyno off a mono at kyloe in the woods in Northumberland, its a bit far from the peak district, but it is an excellent venue, well worth travelling up to. Lots of other great problems there too!
 Adam Lincoln 31 May 2009
In reply to benj_d:
> (In reply to skyweekes)
>
> You may be interested in a unrepeated font 8a+ dyno off a mono at kyloe in the woods in Northumberland,

What might that be called then?
 mrjonathanr 31 May 2009
In reply to skyweekes:
Try the dyno project on the Tank boulder, Whimberry. Big holds, massive distance.
 James Oswald 31 May 2009
In reply to mrjonathanr:
I was just about to say that.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Chris Graham's Catapult? Although, I've seen font8a quoted for it:

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/kyloe_in.htm
 benj_d 31 May 2009
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Sorry yes, i forgot to include the name heh. I was just recalling it from memory so it could be font 8a. Still, its an unrepeated dyno at a great bouldering venue!
 pottsworth 01 Jun 2009
In reply to skyweekes:
If you've been before you may well have done them, but the buxton dyno is a classic, as is deliverance (though maybe not a dyno in the standard sense
 gabriel_m 01 Jun 2009
In reply to pottsworth:
Buckstone dyno surely? That and Deliverance might be a bit easy for the man in question.
 Dan Lane 01 Jun 2009
In reply to skyweekes:

The dyno at Wimberry!
 butterworthtom 01 Jun 2009
In reply to skyweekes:
Stole this list of UKB, obviously not all of them are in the peak, never mind even the UK:

1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
18. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
19. Young American 157cm Stoney
20= Megatron 155cm Stoney
20= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones


Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
 Tyler 01 Jun 2009
In reply to Oli:

> Boulderingwise - The dyno project at Wimberry.

I think this is the most worth while objective, although i don't think anyone has got that close.
 andi_e 01 Jun 2009
In reply to Tyler: The dyno at Wimberry isn't that far to go, it's just a case of hoping the hold doesn't fall off when you catch it.
 teddy 01 Jun 2009
In reply to andi_e:

Don't put him off! I'm sure the hold is solid enough. This project needs to be done!!!
 Adam Long 01 Jun 2009
In reply to andi_e:

I wasn't so bothered about breaking the hold as dislocating my shoulder. The problem isn't so much the distnace as the savage catch.
skyweekes 01 Jun 2009
Wow! Thanks everybody for the help! I researched the dyno proj at Wimberry and would really like to give it a shot! Any chance i could get a tour from any of you on friday july 10th or Monday july 13th? Anybody have any pics of the dyno?

Thanks again!
Sky
 Jus 01 Jun 2009
In reply to skyweekes:

there's a pic in the peak bouldering guide. good luck!
 teddy 02 Jun 2009
Check out the 'Dyno Science' page at the back of the Peak District bouldering guide which lists the Wimberry project and other worthy dynos. The pic of the dyno itself is in the Wimberry section.

Also, check out at Gibb Tor the 'Gibby Haines' dyno (i hope I have got the name right - it is a massive one!)

If you have the chance, go to Stoney Middleton where there are all sorts of dynos to do, albeit often eliminates (still good though). The George's Wall dyno to the sloper is very hard I think and not often/ ever(?) done although going to the higher jug is much easier.

Have fun! Sorry I am in Rodellar those days in July otherwise I would have come to Wimberry with you.
 teapot 02 Jun 2009
In reply to skyweekes:

You could do worse than check out

Pit Hole Quarry (near Chatsworth Edge)-huge 7c+ dyno (with a 7b sit start that has possibly yet to be linked in to the dyno)

Gibby Haines at Gibb Tor - has a v8 sit start that again has yet to be linked to the 7c+ dyno

So not exactly stirling projects, but both need doing. Take some large pads.



 Simon 03 Jun 2009
In reply to teapot:
> (In reply to skyweekes)
>
> You could do worse than check out
>
> Pit Hole Quarry (near Chatsworth Edge)-huge 7c+ dyno (with a 7b sit start that has possibly yet to be linked in to the dyno)
>

Never heard of this place.

You don't mean Harry's Cave aka - Stump Hole Cavern do you?

Si
 teapot 03 Jun 2009
In reply to Simon:

You are right. No idea where I dug that name up from.
 robin mueller 04 Jun 2009
In reply to teapot:

The Stump Hole Cavern Dyno is around 7b+. It's 7c+ to do it from sitting. Not sure whether this has been repeated or not.
 teapot 04 Jun 2009
In reply to robin mueller:

Who did it from sitting?

Who has done it and given it 7b+? It gets 7c/7c+ from standing in Ru`s guide, not that that means much.
 RupertD 04 Jun 2009
In reply to teapot:

I think it actually gets 7c+ from sitting, to the top. The top move is the big dyno, and most people miss it out, finishing at the ledge. If you finish on the ledge, its 7b+ from sitting, 7b from standing. As far as I know the full thing has been repeated by Andy Earl.

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