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thinking about the thread about Mecca, and (yes) showing my ignorance, what other routes considered to be classics are no longer around?
The only rockfalls springing to my mind at this moment are the one in Ilkley quarry a few years ago, but I don't know if that destroyed any routes, and the instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
The only rockfalls springing to my mind at this moment are the one in Ilkley quarry a few years ago, but I don't know if that destroyed any routes, and the instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
In reply to Tall Clare: American Direct on the Dru?
In reply to Tall Clare: There's at least one route in Hard Rock that is no more - Deer Bield Buttress? Something like that, anyway. Give me a mo and I'll find out.
Part of Nea in the Pass isn't as once it was, a fact I discovered in the rain and gathering darkness as I tried to make the guidebook description fit some twenty-odd years back...
T.
Part of Nea in the Pass isn't as once it was, a fact I discovered in the rain and gathering darkness as I tried to make the guidebook description fit some twenty-odd years back...
T.
1
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
that rings a bell!
> (In reply to Tall Clare) There's at least one route in Hard Rock that is no more - Deer Bield Buttress? Something like that, anyway. Give me a mo and I'll find out.
that rings a bell!
>
> Part of Nea in the Pass isn't as once it was, a fact I discovered in the rain and gathering darkness as I tried to make the guidebook description fit some twenty-odd years back...
>
isn't the bottom section pretty different now? > Part of Nea in the Pass isn't as once it was, a fact I discovered in the rain and gathering darkness as I tried to make the guidebook description fit some twenty-odd years back...
>
In reply to Tall Clare: Jean Jeanie et al. at trowbarrow looked quite precarious last time I was there... ominous sounding signage at the base of the wall as well! That lot will make a bit of a noise if/when...
In reply to riichar:
Ditto Sterling Steel in Bus Stop Quarry, the world's easiest E2.
> (In reply to Tall Clare) Jean Jeanie et al. at trowbarrow looked quite precarious last time I was there... ominous sounding signage at the base of the wall as well! That lot will make a bit of a noise if/when...
Ditto Sterling Steel in Bus Stop Quarry, the world's easiest E2.
In reply to Tall Clare:
instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
Is it, however, unaffected??
instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
Is it, however, unaffected??
In reply to Tall Clare: Walthwaite Crack at Ravens Walthwaite, Langdale.
I'm not sure it fits the 'classic routes' brief, but it's certainly amusing how many people have thought they've climbed it and ticked it in the logbook since it fell down...
I'm not sure it fits the 'classic routes' brief, but it's certainly amusing how many people have thought they've climbed it and ticked it in the logbook since it fell down...
In reply to net:
was that something to do with the enormous boulder that went trundling down almost as far as the road through the village?
was that something to do with the enormous boulder that went trundling down almost as far as the road through the village?
In reply to Tall Clare: Bonnatti Pillar.
In reply to Tall Clare: It was Deer Bield Buttress; Stephen Reid/Needlesport have details of all the damage wrought by erosion on their list here http://www.needlesports.com/hardrock/hardrocklist.htm
Since I haven't climbed on the Grochan for 10 years (just the way things have gone, not a choice) I'm not sure whether the bottom of Nea is different these days, but the rockfall that confused me took the finishing pitch away, leaving you to finish up the last pitch of Spectre and raising the grade of the climb a notch. It was one of those days that sticks in the mind when we did that; we just, by seconds, got down in time to make last orders in the Vaynol and had to go back the next morning to collect a rope we'd left somewhere in the stygian darkness.
If he hasn't already mentioned it, I'm sure Al Evans will soon be here to mention that Yankee Doodle at Land's End is no more...
T.
Since I haven't climbed on the Grochan for 10 years (just the way things have gone, not a choice) I'm not sure whether the bottom of Nea is different these days, but the rockfall that confused me took the finishing pitch away, leaving you to finish up the last pitch of Spectre and raising the grade of the climb a notch. It was one of those days that sticks in the mind when we did that; we just, by seconds, got down in time to make last orders in the Vaynol and had to go back the next morning to collect a rope we'd left somewhere in the stygian darkness.
If he hasn't already mentioned it, I'm sure Al Evans will soon be here to mention that Yankee Doodle at Land's End is no more...
T.
In reply to MG:
The rock fall was to the right - Red Pencil was unaffected. However, how long that tottering pile of choss keeps itself levitated is anyones guess =:o0
> (In reply to Tall Clare)
> instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
>
> Is it, however, unaffected??
> instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
>
> Is it, however, unaffected??
The rock fall was to the right - Red Pencil was unaffected. However, how long that tottering pile of choss keeps itself levitated is anyones guess =:o0
In reply to Tall Clare:
Yep, there's a pic here from Rog Wilko: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=60955
Looking up at that part of the crag yesterday we were thinking that the rest didn't look too stable either!!
> (In reply to net)
>
> was that something to do with the enormous boulder that went trundling down almost as far as the road through the village?
>
> was that something to do with the enormous boulder that went trundling down almost as far as the road through the village?
Yep, there's a pic here from Rog Wilko: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=60955
Looking up at that part of the crag yesterday we were thinking that the rest didn't look too stable either!!
In reply to Tall Clare:
Maybe classic is an exagerration but several routes in Leicestershire quarries that vanished when quarrying restarted or quarries filled in.
Maybe classic is an exagerration but several routes in Leicestershire quarries that vanished when quarrying restarted or quarries filled in.
In reply to Tall Clare:
Quite a few have changed character significantly over the years due to rock fall: Central Butress on Scafell; King Kong at Wintours; Bishops Rib at Chairladder all spring to mind.
Quite a few have changed character significantly over the years due to rock fall: Central Butress on Scafell; King Kong at Wintours; Bishops Rib at Chairladder all spring to mind.
In reply to Tall Clare:
Several classics in Hodge Close (Alternative Ulster, Stiff Little Fingers), Valhalla in the quarry at Burbage South, Fandango at Tremadoc, various versions of Pink Void, Heart of the Sun and Earth Rim Roamer on the Culm Coast, big bits of Pembroke (the Buttress with Wraith at Mother Carey's, Return of the Native(?), pratically a whole wall at Intake Quarry...
I did Deer Bield Buttress very soon after the top pitch fell down. Very odd getting to the top of the groove to find a big sharp jug... with nothing over the top of it!
Several classics in Hodge Close (Alternative Ulster, Stiff Little Fingers), Valhalla in the quarry at Burbage South, Fandango at Tremadoc, various versions of Pink Void, Heart of the Sun and Earth Rim Roamer on the Culm Coast, big bits of Pembroke (the Buttress with Wraith at Mother Carey's, Return of the Native(?), pratically a whole wall at Intake Quarry...
I did Deer Bield Buttress very soon after the top pitch fell down. Very odd getting to the top of the groove to find a big sharp jug... with nothing over the top of it!
In reply to Tall Clare:
#A route in the area of Pillar ridge, may even be that, lost a large block at the top many years ago.
Twin Eliminate lost something and is no longer in the guide it seems.
Both at Laddow.
Several routes I have done in Dovestones quarry are now on the quarry floor.
The sword of Sword of Damocles parted company with the crag on Bowfell
The chockstone on Central Buttress left its crack along with a passenger making the route a bit harder.
Fools Paradise is still there for the brave, but lost some rock.
#A route in the area of Pillar ridge, may even be that, lost a large block at the top many years ago.
Twin Eliminate lost something and is no longer in the guide it seems.
Both at Laddow.
Several routes I have done in Dovestones quarry are now on the quarry floor.
The sword of Sword of Damocles parted company with the crag on Bowfell
The chockstone on Central Buttress left its crack along with a passenger making the route a bit harder.
Fools Paradise is still there for the brave, but lost some rock.
In reply to riichar:
Jean Jeanie is not _actually_ about to fall down is it? (any more than it has been for the last few decades)? If so then I'd better get over there and climb it as I've never got round to it...
Jean Jeanie is not _actually_ about to fall down is it? (any more than it has been for the last few decades)? If so then I'd better get over there and climb it as I've never got round to it...
In reply to Dave Garnett: Ah yes, Mother Carey's. Crithmum, a classic VS, isn't the route it used to be following a rockfall.
T.
T.
In reply to Tall Clare:
Unknown Buttress at Avon Gorge was a megaclassic that was blown up when the road was widened in the early 70s. South-East Pillar at Mewslade on the Gower was another classic HVS that fell down around the same time.
Unknown Buttress at Avon Gorge was a megaclassic that was blown up when the road was widened in the early 70s. South-East Pillar at Mewslade on the Gower was another classic HVS that fell down around the same time.
1
In reply to jonny taylor:
Na, been like that for years, safe as houses mate, promise. Get on it...
Na, been like that for years, safe as houses mate, promise. Get on it...
In reply to Tall Clare:
It destroyed a couple, dunno about classics though. I think one was the presciently named Friable Overhang.
> the one in Ilkley quarry a few years ago, but I don't know if that destroyed any routes,
It destroyed a couple, dunno about classics though. I think one was the presciently named Friable Overhang.
In reply to MG:
It was stacked death ~8 years ago when I did it, I suspect the crag has been unstable for many years, it's just a lottery whether it goes while someone's on it. The routes that fell down ~5 years ago were a little to the side of RPD if I recall.
Re Trowbarrow. Isn't it in a state of fairly stable instability, the cracks aren't moving that much? It just looks awful because it never fell down when it should have!
jk
> (In reply to Tall Clare)
> instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
>
> Is it, however, unaffected??
> instability on Pen Y Ghent that jeopardised Red Pencil Direct.
>
> Is it, however, unaffected??
It was stacked death ~8 years ago when I did it, I suspect the crag has been unstable for many years, it's just a lottery whether it goes while someone's on it. The routes that fell down ~5 years ago were a little to the side of RPD if I recall.
Re Trowbarrow. Isn't it in a state of fairly stable instability, the cracks aren't moving that much? It just looks awful because it never fell down when it should have!
jk
In reply to blanchie14c:
Could be wrong but I'd guess the classic route on the eiger is nothing like it once was. I understand it has the odd rock fall....
Could be wrong but I'd guess the classic route on the eiger is nothing like it once was. I understand it has the odd rock fall....
In reply to Tall Clare:
A few more for the list:
Pink Void at Baggy
The start of King Kong (Old description: climb the unstable blocks; New desription: climb the smooth wall)
That beautiful crack on Lundy - Controlled Burning?
J
A few more for the list:
Pink Void at Baggy
The start of King Kong (Old description: climb the unstable blocks; New desription: climb the smooth wall)
That beautiful crack on Lundy - Controlled Burning?
J
In reply to Dave Garnett:
As well as Earth Rim Roamer on the Culm 'Claire', a 'delectable Diff *, has a top pitch tthat used to be a crack up a slab but is now an arete.
And there was Hounds Tooth Buttress at Tremadog (or was it Hounds head?); one of my old pals reckoned he sneaked a 'last ascent' on there before they blew it up.
As well as Earth Rim Roamer on the Culm 'Claire', a 'delectable Diff *, has a top pitch tthat used to be a crack up a slab but is now an arete.
And there was Hounds Tooth Buttress at Tremadog (or was it Hounds head?); one of my old pals reckoned he sneaked a 'last ascent' on there before they blew it up.
In reply to Tall Clare:
parallel gully B in lochnagar
giant at creag an dubh loch (although i think this has been climbed since, although perhaps not in its entirity....does anyone know?)
parallel gully B in lochnagar
giant at creag an dubh loch (although i think this has been climbed since, although perhaps not in its entirity....does anyone know?)
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I'm thinking your idea of 'classic' might be a bit different to mine
> Several classics in Hodge Close
I'm thinking your idea of 'classic' might be a bit different to mine
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
And Wraith?
"What was once a finely positioned jamming crack is now a finely positioned arete".
> (In reply to Dave Garnett) Ah yes, Mother Carey's. Crithmum, a classic VS, isn't the route it used to be following a rockfall.
>
> T.
>
> T.
And Wraith?
"What was once a finely positioned jamming crack is now a finely positioned arete".
In reply to Tall Clare: I've climbed a few! Deer Bield Buttress; Yankee Doodle; Fandango at Tremadog (our chalk was still on the 20' block from our ascent when it went...); Crithmum at Mother Scaries.
Perhaps I ought to lose some weight.
Perhaps I ought to lose some weight.
In reply to Max_01: That too!
In reply to Rob Exile Ward: Oh, and does the Old Man of Mow still exist?
In reply to Tall Clare: There was a big slate flake finger that snapped off at Bus stop quarry, the name of which eludes me.
A lot of the climbs on Dover seacliffs disappear at a considerable rate.
A lot of the climbs on Dover seacliffs disappear at a considerable rate.
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
>Oh, and does the Old Man of Mow still exist?
I think so but us lard arses climbing it in the past seem to have tilted it or something.
Did you get all the variations done on it, I missed out on one of them.
>Oh, and does the Old Man of Mow still exist?
I think so but us lard arses climbing it in the past seem to have tilted it or something.
Did you get all the variations done on it, I missed out on one of them.
In reply to Chris F:
either "the Illinois enema bandit" or "1000 tons of chicken shit" I think.
> (In reply to Tall Clare) There was a big slate flake finger that snapped off at Bus stop quarry, the name of which eludes me.
>
>
either "the Illinois enema bandit" or "1000 tons of chicken shit" I think.
In reply to GrahamD:
Come on, Stiff Little Fingers in its original incarnation was a brilliant finger jamming crack with a thin little slab at the top. And it was a classic if for no other reason than it was my first E3 lead!
> (In reply to Dave Garnett)
>
> [...]
>
> I'm thinking your idea of 'classic' might be a bit different to mine
>
> [...]
>
> I'm thinking your idea of 'classic' might be a bit different to mine
Come on, Stiff Little Fingers in its original incarnation was a brilliant finger jamming crack with a thin little slab at the top. And it was a classic if for no other reason than it was my first E3 lead!
In reply to Tall Clare: There were number of good VS's at Auchinstarry (Sandman / Fusion) that are no more due to local council 'stabilisation' works. The council left some really crappy areas alone, and removed a couple of brilliant corners with bomber protection. Pillocks!
Down in the Lakes -- I believe the top pitch of Fool's Paradise may still be dangerously unstable
Down in the Lakes -- I believe the top pitch of Fool's Paradise may still be dangerously unstable
In reply to sutty: I can't remember now Sutty, only went there one evening 30 years ago - I only remember I wasn't very impressed, though I was pleased to get the Nunn tick!
In reply to Tall Clare:
Parallel B Chimney, on Lochnagar was altered by a major rockfall. The chimney was the best part of the route summer and winter.
Parallel B Chimney, on Lochnagar was altered by a major rockfall. The chimney was the best part of the route summer and winter.
In reply to Tall Clare: And of course, jow many of us remember the sublime Unknown Gully at Avon? Or the less sublime Roozleboom?
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
> Down in the Lakes -- I believe the top pitch of Fool's Paradise may still be dangerously unstable
Not saying that's not the case, but it still sees quite a few ascents in its UKC logbook. That's another one I'd like to get on some time, but haven't got round to yet (and am a bit cautious of its status, as you say, despite the fact that people are clearly still climbing it). In reply to Tall Clare:
I don't know if you would call it a classic route but there was a nice little rock route on the West face of the Aiguille Purtscheller, done originally by Rebuffat and Terray so this should give it a small "c" classic status, which we did in 1971 from the Collomb and Crw guide book. When I got the more recent Lindsay Griffin guide I looked for it and it was no longer there... apparently it all fell down! And yet it felt like nice solid granite at the time.
The Bonatti pillar has gone too, but that has already been mentioned... the bang was quite something apparently.
I don't know if you would call it a classic route but there was a nice little rock route on the West face of the Aiguille Purtscheller, done originally by Rebuffat and Terray so this should give it a small "c" classic status, which we did in 1971 from the Collomb and Crw guide book. When I got the more recent Lindsay Griffin guide I looked for it and it was no longer there... apparently it all fell down! And yet it felt like nice solid granite at the time.
The Bonatti pillar has gone too, but that has already been mentioned... the bang was quite something apparently.
In reply to jonny taylor: Climbed it a year or so ago without knowing its history - top pitch looked a bit worrying but nothing obviously loose. If any blocks did go, they'd be big ones. It was a nice enough route, but not especially memorable (apart from the biting ants). There's plenty of equally good/better stuff around that's less worrying.
The FRCC website used to have a page of routes with loose rock, but I can't find it any more - anyone know where it's gone?
The FRCC website used to have a page of routes with loose rock, but I can't find it any more - anyone know where it's gone?
In reply to Tall Clare:
Controlled Burning On Lundy, or has that already been said?
Controlled Burning On Lundy, or has that already been said?
In reply to riichar:
nah safe as houses that lot....just not very stable houses
> (In reply to Tall Clare) Jean Jeanie et al. at trowbarrow looked quite precarious last time I was there... ominous sounding signage at the base of the wall as well! That lot will make a bit of a noise if/when...
nah safe as houses that lot....just not very stable houses
In reply to jonny taylor: According to Pundits its been falling down since the day I did it over 30 years ago, If Jean Jeanie goes it will take about another half dozen classics with it.
In reply to Al Evans: I once had the pleasure of giving Neil Gresham a masterclass when he failed to find the start of Conscientious Objector at St Govan's, which had fallen down quite a few years previously.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=1400
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=1400
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
Similarly, a huge chunk of the Trolltind Wall collapsed in 1998 sweeping away the modern classic Swedish Route (1200m VI sup.)
> (In reply to Tall Clare)
>
>
>
> The Bonatti pillar has gone too, but that has already been mentioned... the bang was quite something apparently.
> The Bonatti pillar has gone too, but that has already been mentioned... the bang was quite something apparently.
Similarly, a huge chunk of the Trolltind Wall collapsed in 1998 sweeping away the modern classic Swedish Route (1200m VI sup.)
In reply to Tall Clare:
The right-hand end of St Govan's looks like about a dozen routes have gone - one of the biggest rock falls I have ever seen. I'll photo it tomorrow.
Chris
The right-hand end of St Govan's looks like about a dozen routes have gone - one of the biggest rock falls I have ever seen. I'll photo it tomorrow.
Chris
In reply to Tall Clare:
I have a copy of the brown North of England guide (1985? I'm sure that Ron Kenyon or the Lord of Starkness of this parish will confirm or refute), which has a venue called Westerhope Quarry, near Spennymoor, with a few starred VSs in.
So I went to find it, and spoke to a nice gentleman who told me it had been filled in some ten years ago, and told me about all the hassle the climbers from the University of Durham had caused parking in the village when the crag was still exposed.
Y.
I have a copy of the brown North of England guide (1985? I'm sure that Ron Kenyon or the Lord of Starkness of this parish will confirm or refute), which has a venue called Westerhope Quarry, near Spennymoor, with a few starred VSs in.
So I went to find it, and spoke to a nice gentleman who told me it had been filled in some ten years ago, and told me about all the hassle the climbers from the University of Durham had caused parking in the village when the crag was still exposed.
Y.
In reply to Tall Clare:
If you mean the council's 'stabilisation work', the nearest to a classic I think was Wellington Chimney, a 1-star Diff. Curiously, several people claim in their UKC logbooks to have climbed it, many years after it ceased to exist! It has been resurrected (sort of) as Demolition Derby, an HS 4a that is more pigeon poo than rock.
Isn't there a 'chimney' route at Shining Clough where hal;f the chi8mney is no longer there, and it's now a wall?
And not exactly a 'classic' (except in a local sense), but a large part of Park Nab (NY Moors), including some of the best routes, fell down one night a few years ago.
> the one in Ilkley quarry a few years ago
If you mean the council's 'stabilisation work', the nearest to a classic I think was Wellington Chimney, a 1-star Diff. Curiously, several people claim in their UKC logbooks to have climbed it, many years after it ceased to exist! It has been resurrected (sort of) as Demolition Derby, an HS 4a that is more pigeon poo than rock.
Isn't there a 'chimney' route at Shining Clough where hal;f the chi8mney is no longer there, and it's now a wall?
And not exactly a 'classic' (except in a local sense), but a large part of Park Nab (NY Moors), including some of the best routes, fell down one night a few years ago.
In reply to Tall Clare: There are quite a few from the States as well. The Mickey's Beach Crack--a classic 5.12 north of San Francisco is now Mickey's Beach Arete following a Pacific storm and much harder... Then there is The Gendarme, a 40' pinnacle at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia containing a wonderful easy route to a tiny summit. It was so symbolic of the area that the local climbing store was--and still is--named in its honor. One afternoon it was there--and climbied!!!, the next morning it was in the talus--I don't believe than anyone actually heard it fall--(does a falling gendarme make a sound if there is no one to hear?). Mentioning "symbols" the granite profile of the Old Man of the Mountains on Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire was the state's symbol, the subject of poetry and appearing on license plates, etc. Much engineering work went into preserving it from the forces of nature but to no avail as it fell one night about 5 years ago, taking parts of several routes with it--- sadly,not an unusual happening on Cannon. There are plenty of others, but my personal favorite concerns a route I participated in the first ascent of on a formation in Wyoming's Wind River Mountains in 1980. The route was 12 or so pitches long, the first 5 following an incedible splitter hand and finger crack up a steep granite slab---a classic in the making we felt.In the early '90s a new guidebook to the Winds was published,and I eagerly opened it to look for the glowing commentary on our creation, to learn that sometime beween our ascent and 1988---a wink in geologic time--a piece approximately 300' tall and I forget how wide or thick had collapsed eliminating the 1st 3 pitches of our route--we hadn't had a hint of instability. The author had humour at our expense as the result of our, in retrospect, unfortunate naming of the formation/route--The Wisdom Tooth!!!!
In reply to Tall Clare: A sizeable area of Park Nab, North York moors and the bit of Kern Knots on Gable which was toppled by an earthquake.
In reply to Tall Clare:
The Rimmon route on the Troll Wall fell down a few years ago.
Fandango at Tremadog.
The Rimmon route on the Troll Wall fell down a few years ago.
Fandango at Tremadog.
In reply to Tall Clare:
You must remember this
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=472262
You must remember this
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=472262
In reply to Tall Clare:
La Major on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc is inaccessible these days due to rockfall on the approach. According to the guidebook anyway.
La Major on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc is inaccessible these days due to rockfall on the approach. According to the guidebook anyway.
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
I see you mentioned the 'bang' on the Bonatti rock fall. The Troll Wall one I referred to above apparently registered 2.2 on the Richter Scale. There was then a huge 'cloud layer' of rock dust about a third of the way up the face for quite a few seconds (minutes?). Tony Howard showed me an extraordinary picture of it.
> (In reply to Tall Clare)
>
>
> The Bonatti pillar has gone too, but that has already been mentioned... the bang was quite something apparently.
I see you mentioned the 'bang' on the Bonatti rock fall. The Troll Wall one I referred to above apparently registered 2.2 on the Richter Scale. There was then a huge 'cloud layer' of rock dust about a third of the way up the face for quite a few seconds (minutes?). Tony Howard showed me an extraordinary picture of it.
In reply to Misha:
I think it is the pear, Lucca mentioned it in one of his postings.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=311707&v=1#x4602911
I think it is the pear, Lucca mentioned it in one of his postings.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=311707&v=1#x4602911
In reply to Alan Rubin: Finger of God in Namibia
http://image36.webshots.com/36/9/44/13/302294413rRwKNs_fs.jpg
I went past but wasn't allowed to go see it about a month before it fell down.
Interestingly http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mukurob
http://image36.webshots.com/36/9/44/13/302294413rRwKNs_fs.jpg
I went past but wasn't allowed to go see it about a month before it fell down.
Interestingly http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mukurob
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Two friends of mine were in the valley and about to head to the Troll wall when the collapse happened. They packed up and went elsewhere...
In reply to Andy Say:
>Hounds Tooth Buttress at Tremadog (or was it Hounds head?
Hounds Head, I did it with the person who put it up, and found Tremadoc, Dave Thomas. Searching for details I came across the CC obituary files with him in it, a damn good read detailing the exploits of several climbers and their escapades. It also notes Rienetta at Tremadoc fell down.
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2004-05-Journal-p131-176.pd...
>Hounds Tooth Buttress at Tremadog (or was it Hounds head?
Hounds Head, I did it with the person who put it up, and found Tremadoc, Dave Thomas. Searching for details I came across the CC obituary files with him in it, a damn good read detailing the exploits of several climbers and their escapades. It also notes Rienetta at Tremadoc fell down.
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2004-05-Journal-p131-176.pd...
In reply to Moacs:
With her 80s flattop possibly.
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> [...]
>
> Is it just me that thinks that that looks like Grace Jones?
>
> J
>
> [...]
>
> Is it just me that thinks that that looks like Grace Jones?
>
> J
With her 80s flattop possibly.
In reply to sutty: Dave was instrumental in getting us to go to Tremadog, but he wasn't on the first ascent of Hound's Hesd Pinnacle, done by me and Geoff Sutton.Dave was with me for Shadrach and Rienetta, and the latter has also fallen down - without help from the council!
Tony Moulam
Tony Moulam
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Has EVERYTHING been lost to the filling in? Such a shame...
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
>
> Stanworh Quarry - filled in...
>
> Stanworh Quarry - filled in...
Has EVERYTHING been lost to the filling in? Such a shame...
In reply to Tall Clare: The hand traverse on Varsity Buttress (Pontesford Rock, Shropshire) was classic, but sadly no longer exists in its original format with the demise of the flake.
Showing my ignorance, but hasn't the same happened to the Great Flake on Central Buttress?
Showing my ignorance, but hasn't the same happened to the Great Flake on Central Buttress?
In reply to ajjmoulam: Blimey, that was synchronicitous! Just posted about Pontesford Rocks and suddenly noticed your name! I've still got the old green cardboard-bound guide by Walt Unsworth.
In reply to cat22: I climbed Fools Paradise a couple of years ago. My mate who was leading the top pitch started to gibber when a block the size of a fridge shifted. When my turn came I went past it very gingerly, with the minimum of contact.
I posted a warning but sadly the following weekend the block came out and someone was killed.
Although it is/was a great route, I've not been tempted to go back to see what it's like now.
I posted a warning but sadly the following weekend the block came out and someone was killed.
Although it is/was a great route, I've not been tempted to go back to see what it's like now.
In reply to ajjmoulam:
What, Rienetta? Still there and climbed as recently as last week.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=31103
> Dave was with me for Shadrach and Rienetta, and the latter has also fallen down - without help from the council!
What, Rienetta? Still there and climbed as recently as last week.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=31103
In reply to ajjmoulam:
Sorry, just went off the comments in his obituary here, page 8;
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2004-05-Journal-p131-176.pd...
As you say, Rienetta fell down, but has subsequently been re-climbed slightly differently. It was unsafe for some years as I recollect. Maybe something else fell down to make it safer in the late 70s.
Nice to hear from one of the pioneers of the cliff, and other routes you did that I enjoyed.
Sorry, just went off the comments in his obituary here, page 8;
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/2004-05-Journal-p131-176.pd...
As you say, Rienetta fell down, but has subsequently been re-climbed slightly differently. It was unsafe for some years as I recollect. Maybe something else fell down to make it safer in the late 70s.
Nice to hear from one of the pioneers of the cliff, and other routes you did that I enjoyed.
In reply to stewart murray:
.....unfortunately including one of the NYM's very best E3's: Shere Khan.
> (In reply to Tall Clare) A sizeable area of Park Nab, North York moors...
.....unfortunately including one of the NYM's very best E3's: Shere Khan.
In reply to Tall Clare:
Gates of Eden at Daddyhole? Bottom bit fell off and changed HS 4b into VS 5a...
Gates of Eden at Daddyhole? Bottom bit fell off and changed HS 4b into VS 5a...
In reply to Tall Clare: Vladimir and the Beast in Hunstman's Leap fell down due the excessive weight of my in situ gear!
In reply to riichar:
I was told that when I did the first ascent 30 years ago!
> (In reply to Tall Clare) Jean Jeanie et al. at trowbarrow looked quite precarious last time I was there... ominous sounding signage at the base of the wall as well! That lot will make a bit of a noise if/when...
I was told that when I did the first ascent 30 years ago!
In reply to Al Evans: Actually if Jean Jeanie Wall does ever fall down it will open up masses of new route possibilities on solid rock, as its just a skin over unblasted rock, in much the same way as Pant Quarry is/was. It will be muddy to start with but should offer some fine objectives.
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