UKC

I'm heading down to the ecrin at the end of July and am interested long mountaineering routes including north faces. Does anyone have any beta?

particularly interested in the N face of mont Olan and the long routes on the barre itself. It will be my first trip there for years so any info on warm up / acclimatisation routes would be great as well.

we're staying at la berarde and the dibona is allready on the list!

thanks
Alasdair

In reply to alasdair19: I can really recommend the Barre Noir Couloir and NE Ridge of the Barre des Ecrins, just don't underestimate how dry the couloir is and take 4 or 5 ice screws and 2 axes each to make it enjoyable. We didn't make it up the NE Ridge (due to underestimating the aformentioned route!). We bivvied, then followed the guides for a free ride up the glacier, fannied about on the 'shcrund' then completed the route. You can bail out at the top of the couloir or continue up the mixed NE Ridge. It's probably AD+ for the whole route (dending if your climbing neve or ice). We also did the Voie Normale up Ailfroide which was another great Alpine day out, plenty of scrambling and a superbly exposed hanging glacier. Have fun and enjoy, Dave S.

In reply to alasdair19: For acclimatisation you can't beat the Pelvoux traverse. Though it is technically easy the Violettes Glacier descent is committing and involves about 8 rappels. The scenery is totally superb and the view from the summit is pretty special too. The last bit of the descent along the Vire d'Ailefroide is tricky exposed scrambling above a big drop and needs watching. I did the route in late July/early August last year and snow cover was good.

In reply to alasdair19:

I'll probably see you out there then - I'm planning on being in La Berarde/Ailefroid for most of August.

I have been eyeing up the Arete Rouge on the S. face of the Barre - looks like a decent multi day route (1100m on the face) and apparently better rock than the south pillar. Easy walk off down the north side too.

I also fancy something big and icy, but I'm struggling to find info on what might still be in condition in August (if anything).

In reply to alasdair19:

P.s. I don't know the la berade side really, so i'd also be interested in any useful info anyone has.

In reply to alasdair19: I've done the Devies-Gervasutti on the NW face of the Aielfroide, the supposed 'Walker Spur of the Ecrins'. One of my best mountain experiences, mainly rock but we wore crampons in the icier upper chimneys, nothing harder than UIAA VI but long (1200m) and fairly involved routefinding (I think I remember drunkenly telling you about it on the international meet...). We bivied (planned) about 4-5 pitches from the top, experienced a little rockfall but nothing too bad.
As someone mentioned above the S pillar of the Barre is loose but I quite enjoyed it. The S face of the Barre Noir next door is also ok if you can find the right way...
I know the Gervasutti on the N.face of the Olan has fallen down (2003) and we were told its now a suicide mission. The Desmaison looks good and isn't affected but has aid.
If you've not done it then the traverse of the Meije is great and pretty straightforward, the Pierre Allain on the S. Face also looks amazing but we were stopped by bad weather.
In terms of N.faces, the Georges-Russemberger on the Sans Nom looks really good but serious, mixed in the top half.

In reply to sgl: I would definitely agree about the Georges-Russemberger on the North Face of the Pic sans Nom. A great adventure, although it may have changed since I made my ascent (there is an image in my gallery).

In reply to pete leeming:

What's the climbing like on the Georges-Russemberger? Hard?
It looks like it stays in condition right through the summer if the date on your pic is correct.

In reply to alasdair19:

Climbed NE Coulour, Les Bans, short, snow ice and fun.

Stuart

In reply to alasdair19:
The North pillar on the Gandoliere is quite good as a shorter warm up route.The SE Ridge of Pic Geny with a descent down into the Cirque de Soreiller gives a good longish day out. Walked a long way up to the S Face of the Barre des crins to do one of Gaston Rebuffats 100 Best routes in the Dauphine (S Face route not pillar)to find loose and extremely dangerous lower pitches due to glacial retreat. This does seem to be a problem particularly with the high summer temperatures now often experienced in this area. I'm watching this thread with interest as I'm also planning on heading out here this summer.