In reply to Chris Craggs:
I quite agree Chris, they're time bombs. However, I don't think it's unreasonable to ban them - if someone does a new route, they WILL report it. If it has pegs in it then they can be found and removed. My point in the previous long thread on the subject was that it was unreasonable for anyone to expect Alan to report on the state of each and every one, and if alternative protection was available - especially with his deadline fast approaching.
But, back to Trevallen Pillar, the Rockfax implies that the E4 grade is for the second pitch, the crux on the first being well protected by the thread. However, when Ian and I made the first ascent, there was no thread (and pretty poor gear in that area) and the E4 applied equally to the first pitch. I actually mention it in the CC book first ascents list. I've got nothing against the thread in principle, (and would probably welcome it if I was to lead it now...!) but it's not the same undertaking it was when I led that pitch in 1981. I remember removing it once, and was criticised for tinkering with an established route - my accusor didn't know it was my route and the history of the thread. I'm just curious as to who placed it...?