UKC

Chris Savage has climbed a new multi pitch sport route in Cheddar gorge.

Bristol's Got Talent is a four pitch route and rates at F6b, F6b, F8c, F7b.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48110

In reply to UKC News:

cool name....is this the hardest sport climb in the south?

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Am I mis-reading this?
How is 20m multi-pitch?

In reply to Durbs: I think the 20m refers to the crux pitch only. I assume the first two pitches are part of the other route mentioned in the piece.
Not very well-written though is it? Editor needs a clip around the ear!

In reply to Dave C:

Agreed. It doesn't make sense to me.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

just realised there is also an 8c at Anstey's.

Awesomeness

In reply to DannyC:

The first two pitches are on Space Tourist (a 3 pitch 6b+), which is just the most usual way these days of reaching the main action on the big overhanging section of sunset itself (Space Tourist cops off round the side of the over hangs). The third pitch is the famous old project that takes the obvious roof above/right of Paradise lost, and will belay anywhere you like in the break of a 6c traversing pitch. You could then finish up Paradise lost's final groove at 7b, but there was an old project up its right wall, which may have been done, though I suspect if it was only 7b Crocker or Adam or someone would've polished it off years ago

It's more like a new link up, but it is (or was) totally THE last great problem at Cheddar. It was originally very hard, and then I believe Chris pulled holds off it, afterwhich I for one assumed it was impossible.

Any way extremely good effort Chris. Well done. And not just because the rest of us can finally have a go on it now . Bring back Gaz and Vickers, I'd like to see him onsight these!

In reply to Paz:

Is this the true line of Bird of Paradise? If so, I have a confession to make! Great to see some big numbers being climbed at Cheddar. It always had the potential.

THE last great problem in sport terms perhaps, but there's line down the gorge a bit that should go at around F8a-8a+ on spaced natural gear... (let's hope that particular section stays trad.)

In reply to UKC News:

Good effort mate!

Got that in just before the summer season ends and we all die in the nettles trying to get to the routes.

Why such a rubbish photo of the gorge with this article?

In reply to woodster:

Cheddar - a free tick with every visit.

In reply to duncan:

I think i know what you're on about, and Martin warned me off having a go without informing the caves to cordon off the car park; which seemed like to much hassle.

Have you had a look? Would there be anything to trundle? Another well know local says f8a from a brief ab inspection.

In reply to UKC News: Well done Chris, great stuff, saw you trying this a couple of weeks ago whilst on space tourist and looked amazing

In reply to duncan:


Basically no, that's two routes to the left of Paradise Lost. This new thing is one to the right of the direct on its first pitch.


Feel free to go ahead anyway, that never stops most people on UKC, ...


I stand by what I said. Last great as in visible from the road and obvious, not as in the corrie head wall which perpective obscures, and you have to study the guidebook to work out what's what. I'm sure the exposed high wall proj's great, but you used to have to say: "it's the thing up there that's not the E7 rising thing nor either of the two E5s nor the E6, With it you can't just point and go, that roof, that wall right of that groove. Needs doing. Like you could do with the Bristol Paradise new thing when it was a project. It's good, but reading the guidebook it could just end up being called Hallucinations Direct. Another great route on the headwall nobody bothers to abseil down.

I also have to express my maximum respect to Chris to him for (possibly unwittingly - the sign of greatness) sticking two thumbs up to all those f*cking Milton references and variations. Though I do love the grandiose names being attributed to obviously (and actually) great routes, without having to delve in to all the literary baggage.

Moving on. What other roofs are left for savage? Ally, do you know what the hell's Fred done with his keys, and do you agree that now after pretty much 3 years,they should be surrendered or ignored?

In reply to UKC News:
I didn't realise Sunset Buttress was open to climbers outside of Winter. Is this the case, and if so, are there any restrictions later on this summer?
Thanks
Graham

Graham (and anyone else climbing >7b):

Sunset had a new rockfall fence erected last year and is now a ‘Summer Season' crag: open all year except July and August (and Easter, May and Whit long weekends). It will close on the 1st July and reopen on the 6th September this year. It’s also open for the “Crag Attack” event on the 4/5th July. Get on it people!
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3008


Ally:

I abseiled the line about 10 years ago, fondled the holds longingly but never tried shunting it or anything like that. At the time the moves seemed doable, but I realised I would have had to spend some time taking sport-climbing a lot more seriously to gain the required fitness, so I wasn't looking very closely.

I don’t remember any large-scale trundling but, as I’m sure you know, you can start pulling off little bits and big bits follow.

In reply to UKC News: OMG Thats my photo !! you can even see on the bottom thin line of my navy skoda felicia.

In reply to Paz:

I have a random pedlock key; it might be that!?

Otherwise: bolt cutters, or i can give you a new hanger to replce the padlocked one?