UKC

Sharma "Still King" - Flashes Petzl Roctrip Ultimate Route

Each year the Petzl team get together and visit a top-class sport climbing destination, developing new routes and having an in-house competition. The Roctrip has two 'Ultimate Routes', one for the men and one for the women...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48162

In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant - A 100m 8c!

The Petzl Roctrip should come to Malham next year, im sure they could open up some hard long routes!

In reply to UKC News: Wow - the rope drag/weight must be incredible...

In reply to Tris:

Ey, that makes no sense.

Apparently the Womens route is 90m and "so long that it's impossible to give it a grade". Yet they managed to Grade the 100m mans route as 8c?

In reply to UKC News:

>"Super-Endurance 100m F8c"

Anyone know (or care to hazard a guess) as what the grades would be if it was split into 3 pitches of equal length?

In reply to snoop6060:

But then they say "It's not extreme", so it must HVS or below

In reply to snoop6060:

>"Yet they managed to Grade the 100m mans route as 8c?"

Sharma flashed it, others didn't. A look at their track records will give an estimation of the grade but as the sample is so small and the length of route outwith the normal range it's likely the 8c isn't very accurate.

The same could have been done for the womens route but until people are regularly climbing 100m single pitch routes like these (never?) grades are just ballpark figures.

In reply to UKC News:

for those with any interest

the womens route already existed at a 3 pitch line, 7b+, 7b+, 7c. poor rests at each belay point where you didn't really stop, just carried on. Estimated at 8a which is how it felt.

mens route first pitch already existed at 50m 8b, then the exixting line went left and the new Petzl line right via 30m of 7a climbing to around 20m of bouldery climbing. In 3 pitches it would be 8b, 7a, then a minimum of 8b+. The easy section of climbing in the middle means the last section ends up giving the overall grade as the climber is pretty much recovered by the time he hits it. It could be 8c, only Sharma can say as he's the only one who did it, the rest of us falling off and not getting to work it so no idea of what was left, though apparently myself and andrada were not far off.

ste mac

In reply to ste mac:

how heavy does the rope feel at 50+m?

In reply to ste mac: Thanks for the info Steve - 100m routes - wow (pump)!

I was looking up at the routes on the Main Cliff of Gogarth the other day, and the same thought struck me, the 3 pitch E5's there would be best done as monster single pitches of around 60 - 70m. A big rack essential of course!

Jack

In reply to ste mac:


The idea that you totally recover by doing 30 mtrs of 7a climbing made me laugh! Wow. Impressive stuff.

Well done to Sharma for putting in such an amazing effort.

In reply to ste mac:

Thanks for the details Steve. It's always interesting to get the inside knowledge on these things.

In reply to ste mac: How did the weight of the rope feel? Did you use a special ultra-thin/light one?
A 100m pitch sounds fun, although I guess a fall would take you miles on rope stretch alone!

In reply to ste mac:

How do you feel about these long routes like Jumbo Love & Chilam Balamthan being climbed as single pitches? Do you consider it to be a good approach and a trend that you would like to see continue with more routes being done in this style?