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bouldering in the lofotens

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toby story 02 Jul 2009
Hi does anyone know of some nice areas for bouldering in the Lofoten islands. I'm heading up there with my girlfriend and we don't have any gear appart from shoes and a single harness?
Thanks Toby
 Spike 02 Jul 2009
In reply to toby story:

bumping this because I'd be interested in the answer also - am heading there in August hopefully and I found some links for boulding in Norway and Sweden

http://www.kjuge.nu/kjuge/eng/

and

http://www.bouldering.no/bouldering/boulder/admin.do?dispatch=index

but can't find lofoten yet
 Spike 02 Jul 2009
In reply to Spike:

there are phots of bouldering in lofoten here - but can't find ref to any guidebook

http://www.udini.de/gallery/norway/Lofoten/index.htm

 eivindf 02 Jul 2009
In reply to toby story: There's not many graded boulders in Lofoten. So if your hope is to tick on 8a.nu you'll come short.

If you are in it for the fun and exploration Lofoten is the right place. There is hundreds.. no, thousands of boulders here. The coastline from Rørvika to Henningsvær is packed. Under Presten (beneath the Presten crag), Randalf (beneath the Gandalf wall close to the sea), and everything between those. A walk on the Djupford path to Bare Blåbær-crag also features great boulders - including some very high and neat looking ones. Before taking the bridge to Henningsvær there is a nice set of boulder problems I like to call Pacman boulders (because one of the stones look like pacman..). Stop where a couple caravans are usually parked on sunny days. Very steep stone and a short roof problems on huge jugs. Kvalvika features lots of very hard boulders which have been graded by some climbers from Finland.

Take a long walk from Henningsvær all the way to Rørvika. And when the beach of Rørvika is reached, continue a couple of houndred meters to reach the superb Stem Bastesen boulders. This trip will probably take two weeks of climbing and 7km of walking. Don't worry, there's lot's of do, all you need to do is walk the coastline.

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