In reply to Enty: the dibona has been on my list since i first saw a photo of it last year. its one of the most beautiful pieces of rock i have ever seen . we were not acclimatised or that fit so the walk in is a bit of a slog but very photogenic.
the route we did was the madier route but did the stoffer grooves instead of the 6b chimney. the rock is rough granite and is great but the gear isnt so good . there are a few bolts on the route and the belays are generally bolted. it was very cold and we didnt have gloves as the forecast was good but the wind coming of the glacier above was icy and i would recommend have spare layers as this is definitely not your average crag ! 15 pitches took us 8 hours and then 1.5 on the descent. worth it for the photos though