UKC

what are the best routes on the aig rouge in chamonix , looking for up to 6a and ideally do able in a half day as its really a family holiday and I'll be nipping out early to get aroute in and be back in the valley by lunchtime (ish).thanks

In reply to nk: if your hope is for halfday routes then you'd better make sure you are on the first lift - otherwise the routes you are asking for will have queues on them

In reply to Tobias at Home: Even with first lift you have queues. Index and Gliere are popular choices. There are some shorter bolter routes, but none are particularly inspirational. Some of the longer routes on the Cheserys might be an option, have done a few, but don't ask me which! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2819

In reply to nk: A route on the 'tour des croches' could be done. Half an hour from the index lift, maybe 3hrs on the route. Then 40mins down too the flegere station. Should be doable in a morning.

In reply to Ally Baba: You not working young man?

In reply to nk: Voie Frison Roche is good, six pitches-ish, about a 6a crux, on the Brevent, but popular. Get the first cable car to the top and run down from there to the start!

We had a more leisurely approach to it, going up late in the day, so by then the route was empty, camped afterwards and did another route the next day (Crakoukass). Maybe you could do this but not camp, deliberately miss the last car and walk back down into Chamonix. The walk isn't bad and I've done it a number of times but it might not work for your commitments.

The front face of the Index has a number of bolted lines which you could do in half a day, okay routes but nothing special. 10 min approach from the lift. They avoid the crowds until you meet the standard route at the top.

Loads of multi-pitch routes north of the road near Vallorcine area and towards the Swiss border, some quick access, climb as far as you can, then ab off when your time runs out. Maybe an idea. I remember Slyvie Phobie being good (Nice 5/6a for a number of pitches than 6b+ high up, but you can A0 that bit)

Hi, it's very hard to choose from all the routes, but considering you don't have much time, I'd suggest the Floria:
téléphérique de la Flégère/de l'Index, then 10 minutes' walk, and then you have a choice of beautiful routes on Aiguille de la Floria. My favourites are Athina, Asia and Fraise des Boatchs. They're very popular, and I advise you to be there early and rappel down, not walk (even though it is possible, if tricky). If they're too busy, walk a little further to Robin Wood & co, shorter routes that are less popular but have (IMHO) better views.
There are a couple of interesting routes on the Index itself.
http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/39014/fr/aiguille-de-la-floria

Don't go to Les Cheserys if you can do better. The approach is long and the routes mostly easy and bland. If in that area, go to the Aiguille d'Argentière instead, still easy, still a long walk, but more interesting and good view on the valley. For family climbing, you can take your kids to rocher du Saix in Vallorcine. Very well secured, 10-minute easy approach.

Enjoy the climbs!

In reply to Gripped: yes, Sylvie Phobie is in Barberine. It's not bad, but mostly slab.

In reply to Garbh Coire: am on my piece break. You must no be working very hard yerself!

In reply to Ally Baba: That's a long piece break...

In reply to nk: There is a pretty good route underneath the summit of the Brevant. All bolted, quite steep and with a 6a crux pitch. Perfect for a mornings work but watch out for queues. You can then meet your family at the cable car station.

In reply to Gripped: thanks for the info , head off tomorow early so will hopefully post some pics if it goes well

In reply to nk:

I hadn't climbed in the Aiguilles Rouges for some time till last week when I was asked by a client to climb there. I set off up the Index lift dreading what I was going to find - queues on everything. On the way up my client asked why there was a chapel built up on that ridge on the left. I explained that the Chapelle de le Glière was a lump of rock etc. He immediately wanted to do the route. I tried to persuade him otherwise as I knew from previous experience it'd be heaving - but he wasn't to be moved. I'd only got a dozen quick draws and no gear, but agreed to do it as I was sure it would have been re-equipped as Mr Hooker is always trying to persuade us... There was no-one on it - or near it - and it hadn't been equipped and was quite exciting.

There are so many routes up there now, with an excellent topo that the crowds spread out a lot more than they used to... apart from those 10 mins from the lift, of course!

In reply to nk: If you pick up 'crag climbs in chamonix' when you arrive, there are a bunch of great fun climbs in the 5s and 6s. The void frisson Roche which has been mentioned is brilliant but may be very crowded. Clocher et clochetons is alo very good. I really like the one pitch routes at the top of the Breve too.
Alternatively I would recommend the Font style bouldering circuits at Les Bossons which are fun for all the family, or a full bore bouldering visit to the Col de Montets.

In reply to Gripped:

I know I've tried to flog this on a number of threads, but this is where you mean. All the long routes are half day or less.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1951

In reply to nk: How about a walk up to the Lac Blanc hut for an overnight stay with the family, then an early morning start on a route on the Perseverence with probably not a soul in sight.

In reply to nk: thanks all for the helpful advice . will hopefully get some good routes in though the weather for the first 5 days is a bit dodgy .

In reply to sillypoppy:
I'd support Aiguille d'Argentiere.I've only done the cragging routes on the Aiguilles but there are longer routes behind.How old are your kids?
As I remember it's a safe enough place for sensible kids so they might want to come,it's a lovely place with great views.
sjm

In reply to sjminfife:

Er, AiguilleTTE d'Argentière, I think you mean...

In reply to jon:
I stand corrected!!.
sjm

In reply to jon:

"de le"? Qu'est-ce que H dirait!

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Comment dire en francais "smart arse"?

In reply to jon: And blow me if there isn't a picture on the contents page of the latest dition of Scottish Montaineer!!(just opened)
sjm

In reply to Ian Parsons:

I sit corrected, mon vieux! La.