UKC

A mate and I are heading to Wales for 5 days of climbing (weather dependant of course!) this Friday and I wanted to know the latest news on access to the slate quarries in Dinorwig. I read a post from Mike Raine in June stating that access was restricted / stopped until August-ish. What's the latest?

I really want to spend some quality time on slate if possible, I loved it there when I climbed there earlier in the year.

Thanks!

In reply to allanfarrell: You'll find all the info you need in these two threads.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=369892

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=368889

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: Cheers mate, thanks for the quick update. Appreciated.

This is the latest post copied and pasted from the Online Slate Quarries guide -
Dali’s Hole (Holy, Holy, Holy Area)
TO AVOID FURTHER ANTAGONISING FIRST HYDRO PLEASE DO NOT CONGREGATE HERE IN LARGE NUMBERS. IF THERE ARE SAY ABOUT TEN PEOPLE HERE PLEASE CLIMB ELSEWHERE. CHEERS

In reply to charlieg0pzo:

Indeed. And there are much, much better places to climb in the quarries than the 'Costa Del Dali'...

I feel we have been lucky to retain access... :-S

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate: Yes indeed. There are a couple of climbs in Serengeti I want to do.

In reply to charlieg0pzo: Would you post the link to the Online Slate Quarries guide. Cheers.

In reply to allanfarrell: And if anyone has suggestions for best climbs to lead in the quarries between S and HVS that would be great.

In reply to allanfarrell: itys the weather not the access you should be worried about!!!

In reply to allanfarrell:
http://slate.wetpaint.com/

In reply to Reach>Talent: Fantastic, thanks so much!

In reply to wealer: Deffo got that right!

In reply to allanfarrell:
>

Wed 9th Sept. Prevented from climbing in Dali's Hole today - given 10 minutes by CEGB 'official' to get out. Other climbers and walkers/explorers ie all who ventured off the main road were given the same treatment. A tragedy for welsh rock sport !

In reply to dgp: Have you reported this to BMC Cymru?

By the sounds of the newsletter it made it seem like nothing had changed and access was tolerated by small groups.

In reply to IainRUK:
Do you have a contact/email address please

In reply to dgp: bmccymruwales@live.co.uk.

It must have been the latest minutes from the area meeting.

I'd just be polite, leave and report it and let access be negotiated, there is no official access so I'd be wary of being aggressive.

Newsletter is here:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/your_bmc/newsletters/B...

In reply to dgp:


The bolting of Dali's or the access restrictions?

Ask the numerous parties of beginners who flock to dali's hole to enjoy their first taste of slate and out door climbing !

In reply to dgp:

Would very much like to hear a full report of this incident please send to bmccymruwales@live.co.uk

Thanks

Mike

In reply to allanfarrell:

It really is time to discuss what to do with Dali's Hole. It's a mess and clearly aggravating access problems.

I've changed my mind on this recently, while I've never been a fan of the work done there it seemed reasonably harmless if a little sad. My attitude had been to live and let live. That's changed, it appears to be seriously threatening access to the area as a whole and I now think it should be chopped and made good. It's the very public face of climbing in the quarry, that's always been my problem with it and apparently it's increasingly First Hydro's concern too.

Several people warned about this from the outset when the bolting frenzy got out of hand but they were shouted down. Sadly events appear to be proving them right. I hope the BMC can smooth this over but I'm fearful for access to the area as a whole.

jk

In reply to jkarran:

I thought all of the arguments were about potential grid-bolting and destroying the character of the slate routes, not about how popular the area would become?

Surely the question to ask is why is it so popular?

In reply to jkarran:
Do we know if First Hydro are concerned simply about the number of people there (to them it is presumably excessive) or about climbers or indeed anyone else being there?

Putting up fences will keep the walkers out and will keep some climbers out but it won't stop everyone, what with ropes and climbing gear - people will soon find ways round the fences or abseil lines to get into the quarries.

In reply to Misha:

What sort of a rack would I need for a fence?

In reply to Tris:
There's also some talk of First Hydro blocking up the tunnels. It'd be a great shame if that happened, imo.

In reply to Tris:
Because people don't seem to want to stray too far from the path and they don't mind doing poor routes. Oh, and lets not forget that there ain't that much bolted Fr4,5 rock in N.Wales. If they went up the levels a bit to the Sidings for example, which incidently is out of sight, has better and cleaner rock, and routes in the Fr4,5 range, maybe there wouldn't be such a problem. As for taking groups to a crag where half of it is capped by several feet of tottering slate choss, thats another matter.
Ooh and while I am ranting, it's interesting to quote the existing slate guide for this section Dali's hole:"A number of routes have been done on the friable slab to the right. However,even by slate standards, these are disgusting and as such are best left unrecorded." It's amazing what a crow bar, spade, wire brush,13mm bolts, and a lack of quality control can do to a crag.(no offence to Colin Goodey who put up a few routes;the relatively better lines,and left it at that)

In reply to jkarran:

Can`t speak for the masses, but personaly it would be a sad day when climbers are prevented from climbing in the quarries. What to do? i don`t know? But Dali`s hole certainly seams to be exasperating the situation. Would it be such a loss to chop the routes here to maybe enable the rest of the quarries to stay open?

In reply to johnnorman:
Do you honestly think that chopping the bolts in Dali's Hole (and they are popular for a good reason - beginners really enjoy the routes)that this acion will mean that CGB will allow climbing elsewhere in the quarries. The whole access situation needs sorting - over to you BMC

In reply to dgp:

No i don`t. But if that were the case, would you still be against it?

In reply to johnnorman:
Lets stop perpetuating the idea that if climbing stopped in Dali's then all other areas would be a free for all.

For the benefit of those that did not attend the recent BMC meeting - Keeping a low profile is essential, Groups are a concern of first hydro mainly. Climbing access, whilst still trespass will be tolerated but if approached and asked to leave please move on. Minimise damage to fences. Remain safe, be vigilant of others on levels below and watch the lose stuff your walking on.

First Hydro check UKC I've been reliabley informed so discretion is wise

In reply to dgp:

Well thats what seems to wind up the hydro so it might well help. Its not like they would be any great loss in terms of the quality of the routes. I can appreciate the hydro's concern - the quarries aren't a very safe environment and having what appears to be hordes of climbers in them rather than just the odd pair of climbers now and then must be worrying them.

What is bizzarre is quite how popular a little strip of routes can be, are the folk doing the routes in there newbies? Or would they otherwise be climbing trad routes elsewhere? Is it just the relativley stress free experience of walking up 6 m of steps to lower off that is the draw?

In reply to mynyddresident:

Dear First Hydro, chop the bolts in Dali's hole and your problem will be solved...

In reply to petellis: This option was discussed when myself and Mike Raine had a meeting earlier this summer at Dali's hole with Tony from First Hydro. We discussed many options at length, this is now in the hands of the BMC.....
Chopping the Bolts at Dali's IMO would move the problem elsewhere, with the possibility of more fences being built,(e.g. Never Never Land is also a popular area which could be fenced if it became over popular!!! etc, etc)

In reply to petellis:Ref my post..

In reply to chummer:

right - got that. thanks for the definitve answer.

In reply to Sl@te Head: Dali's hole has always been popular due to the short, accessible and relatively easy routes there, the original routes were often peoples first slate leads and there would be folk trying these most on most days in my experiene,however, and this is the important point,you never got organised groups going there, it was always just a handfull of climbers at most and in my opinion it should always be the individual climber's needs first, organised and commercial groups needs second. Obviously the increased number of routes has allowed more climbers to climb there at any one time than before, previously people would just carry on else where if there was already a party on the existing routes, of which there were few. I think this approach should be used today despite the increased capacity route wise, there are loads of other places out of sight of the main paths to seek out, maybe it's a sign of the times that people don't want to cut their teeth on the VS's, HVS's and E1's elsewhere in the quarry but would rather climb a poor slab with bolts every 2 feet. And yes, before people say it, there aren't that many easy trad routes on the slate, that is the very nature of the beast, you need to serve your appreticeship, work your way up, get better and challenge yourself when your ready on the harder routes(relatively speaking), or of course there are other rock types, other routes..

In reply to petellis: You're welcome!

In reply to allanfarrell:

Just come back from the quarry, counted 26 climbers at Dalis alone !!! They did`nt appear to be in one particular group either.

In reply to chummer: You must be working Chummer! I can feel your anger, let it go! What people need is a definitive guide to the area rather than stupid wiki that really tells'erm nuffing. Maybe I should delete the Dali's hole section from the wiki and highlight sidings by having a easy sport/chummer page! What do you think Chummer?

In reply to Mark Reeves: not working, trying to book a hire car with no credit card! Chummer!
The wiki idea is a good one though probably too late now unfortuntely. I'm gonna let the anger go now, I mean, whats the point eh Mark? Chummers, the lot of 'em!
Jon R

In reply to chummer: i dont think that easy bolted routes are a problem, even if they are not the best quality, they do serve a purpose in a climbing comunity, so i dont know why people have a go at the climbing it`self. the area is also very pleasant to sit and enjoy.
the only very real problem is the location next to the path being very obvious, and coupled together with often very youthfull groups that climb there, it has become an issue!
one thing i am puzzled by, is IF profesional outdoor groups are using the area, are there clients aware that dalis is an off limits area,(officially), for climbing, and how would this affect any insurance in the avent of an accident, surely these types of commercial venture should not be taking place here!!!
regards, chris.

ive seen loads of guided groups using the area, which is stupid given the dangerous nature of the quarrys. though even if the dali bolts are chopped i think large groups of people will still go on the walk though to calafornia... which i have also seen guided groups being lead to...

In reply to adam06:

Please tell me this isn't so!

how the f**k can anyone justify this?

Soloing the California Arete in complete isolation and tranquility is one of my enduring memories.