UKC

Although I'm a (relative) local, I'm drawing a blank for such a set of routes (other than 'Something Stupid' and 'Frankenstien' @ Malham Catwalk)

I'm after routes that do stay dry during rain, and routes that don't seep and become unclimbable during the winter.

I need some hard(er) sport inspiration!

Realistically, I can't imagine that anything desperately cruxy will 'go' in the next 6 months, as it was those kind of routes that stopped me dead last time I was operating around this level, and I have a big finger-strength deficit to make up in the meantime.

(I'm working on the assumption that both 'Forever Young' @ Norber and 'Angel Delight' @ Trollers are both 'really' F7a)

Ta muchly,

PP.

PS. I'm prepared to look as far afield as the South Lakes!

PPS. Am interested in people's opinions on the quality of the harder routes @ Castleberg too.

In reply to PontiusPirate: A redpoint project? Try Sticky Wicket at Kilnsey.
Yes, I know it's 7b+ but the grade drops like "a wotsits drawers" with practise. No real crux and lots of "break out the sarnies" rests.

In reply to Robertostallioni: 7b+? Since when? 7b, and a good choice.

Something stupid seeps too, so maybe not a great option....

Seventh Aardvark would be a good option and maybe some of the 7b+'s upstairs.....

In reply to north country boy: I get easily confused. I thought Woodlice were insects but it turns out they're more closely related to crustaceans!

In reply to Robertostallioni:

You're Andy F and I claim my £5.

In reply to Serpico: Anyone for conehead?

In reply to Serpico: More like 7c and give me that £10 back.

Andy

In reply to PontiusPirate: The Toad of Beck Hall is a good little 7b+ upstairs, stay's dry for a long time, dry's out quick and well bolted.

Andy F

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Thanks all for the info so far, but I do think F7b+ is going to be somewhat out of reach for me for a good few months yet: maybe next summer!

In the meantime some F7a+ and maybe the occasional F7b is where its at.

Keep 'em coming

Ta,

PP

In reply to PontiusPirate:
Malham:
Seventh Aardvark 7b
Rated PG 7a+
Consenting 7a
Free and even easier 7a+

Kilnsey:
Sideshow 7a+
Sticky Wicket 7b
Ground Effect ??? 7b
Witches Brew 7a+
Direct Flight 7a+
Optional extra ??? 7a+
The Last Gasp Finish 7b

In reply to Serpico:

Cheers, though do you have any idea how 'seepy' those you list @ Kilnsey will be over winter?

So far I've ticked: Consenting Adults, Puddlejumper (before it got dangerous!), Sycophants and Rose Coronary (but that may be 'only' F6c+).

Brooklyn Girls will go soon now I understand what I'm doing wrong above the third bolt.
Expect to be able to 'Just Another Dead End Job' in one session with current levels of fitness (Been on it once before and IIRC it has very similar climbing to Sychophants).

If we get some warmth and dryness in October (I'm busy most w/es until then) I'll get Jim Grin @ Trollers. Got rained off before I even got on it last time, top-roped it clean 2nd try in 2005, but have never been on it since.

At F7a+ I've got Angel Delight @ Trollers, Forever Young (only F7a?) @ Norber and Frankenstein @ Malham to get on soon, as I've been on all of these (briefly) in the past and have bits of beta.

'Rated PG' & 'Free and Even Easier' look quite amenable and have the advantage of being under more overhang!

Will have a good look at your Kilnesy suggestions soon.

Cheers,

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate:
>
Depends what sort of winter we have, I've had good days late into November at Kilnsey in the past. Kilnsey gets the morning sun so early starts in winter and then drive to Malham to finish off in the afternoon sun on the RH side of the catwalk. The ones with the question marks are the routes I'm least sure of for staying dry.

In reply to PontiusPirate:

Jim Grin, Trollers, doesn't get much seepage.
Sticky Wicket is never 7b+, ok for 7b, not particularly cruxy.
Ground Effect is cruxy at 7b, harsh start, rest easier.
Quiet/Direct flight does get very seepy, and tough for 7a+.
Free and Even Easier is steady away for 7a/7a+, get on that.
Seventh Aardvark, good at 7b- ish and a beermat in the undercut makes it climbable in most conditions.

In reply to PontiusPirate:


I would say that the best routes at Castleberg are slightly below your target grade @ 6c+/7a (Cave and Crag, Practically Everything, Talbot Arms). I'm currently working The Folly which is 7a+ and gets 2 stars. Personally, I would say that its borderline 1-2 stars. The lower half is (IMO) brilliantly technical moves between good holds but the upper half descends into less satisfying blockyness.

Also, if you decide to take a look and need a belay feel free to give me a shout as I'm only a 5 minute walk away.

As for some other suggestions I'm going to buck the Malham/Kilnsey/Trollers trend. How very dare I!

@ Gigg South
Silent Laughter 7b - always seems to be perplexingly dry and looks very good indeed.
Out of the Limelight 7a+ - very bottom seems to get a little bit damp but the majority of the route stays dry.

@Moughton Nab - very little seepage here but prob quite chilly getting into the winter...
A Breath of Fresh Air 7b
A Power of Good 7b

Pity you aren't quite ready for 7b+ yet because I have a couple of interesting suggestions:
Illywhacker @ Hollywood Bowl - seems to get rave reviews from everyone who climbs it

and completely out of left-field:
Lost in Thought and Lost in Time @ Victoria Cave (Attermire) - had a look at this the other day (whilst looking at Sven Vath 7a+ - which is sopping -as I'm nowhere near 7b+ yet!) and it seemed surprisingly dry given the recent wet weather. I wonder how often this amazing looking route gets climbed?

In reply to PontiusPirate:


what happened to it?

In reply to AJM:

The block that you pull onto just below the lower-off is now distinctly unattached! This is a block plenty big enough to end you and your belayer! It happened in 2008 I think.

Interestingly people have found a way to climb round it, as its still getting done and it doesn't appear ot have got any worse.

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate:
Unless anyone has any objections I'm going to trundle that block the next time I'm up there on a quiet day midweek.

In reply to Serpico:
There were a couple of guys pulling on the said block on Sunday! I think they were unware of the potential danger, although one of them was wearing a helmet?

In reply to chris_j_s:

A Power of Good
Illywhacker
Lost in Thought and Lost in Time

Shame but the above have major seeps in winter.

LITLIT - defy anyone to do this and say sport routes have no character! Yep, even the diry holds dont spoil it unless you are precious....

Regards
Paul