In reply to Dave Ferguson and others:
I wasn’t planning on posting again but after a ‘little look’ last night I ended up laying awake thinking about it, so to hopefully prevent another sleepless night here goes;
There seem to be a fair few people who are disagreeing with the ground up ethic. This ethic is nothing to do with me, I never started it, did any new routes on the Lleyn in this style, I’m not one of the “establishment boys”, I simply followed what I thought was the accepted ethic.
There are many different ethics in the UK and this is, in my mind, one of the things which makes the climbing here so great. Regardless of my views on local ethics I try to stick to them; when I go sport climbing in Spain I climb bolted cracks (well occasionally) and don’t rant about chopping the bolts, when I climb in the Adrspach I don’t use chalk, when I climb on the southern sandstone I either top rope or solo. These ethics have been decided by the local climbers etc and I stick to them.
When I first climbed on the Lleyn we were not ‘in’ the local scene and we used my guide to tells us about the routes and ethics of the area.
“The modern trend for creating a designer climb is an anathema here. Nature has provided a playground for the climber with a nose for adventure. To alter this in any way would be to spoil a remarkable resource… …Traditionally there has been an onsight ethic employed on new routes here, particularly on the sea cliffs. It is requested that this remain the case as there are few areas left with such a honorable history, lets not spoil this for the sake of fame or ego”
This seemed pretty clear cut to me, if anything it was focused more at better climbers “lets not spoil this for the sake of fame” and I think you get more fame from E6,7,8s than HVS and E1s.
I have only lived locally to the Lleyn for short periods but I climbed with a few of the local activists and have drunk with many more. Talking to Crispin, Adam Wainwright, Noel Crain, Stevie, Leigh etc about climbing on the Lleyn I was left thinking that they all agreed with this ethic (I have spoken with Stevie and Leigh about ground up new routes on the Lleyn, and as much as I didn’t ask them outright about the ethic they seemed very pro ground up)
The people I continued to climb with on the Lleyn; Pete Robins, Will Perrin lived in (or near) Llanberis and spoke to the Lleyn activist much more than me (I think they even spoke to Ray Kay, I had only ever glimpsed him across a pub!) and they never told me or gave the impression the ethics had changed. We continued to climb onsight and ground up on the Lleyn. New guides came and went with no mention of a change of ethics, or that the old guides stance was wrong (I don’t have any of the new guides but Adam L and Pete do so I could be wrong here and Pete and Adam never told me)
I am not and never have been one of the establishment boys so the ethic wasn’t for me to question – and I thought it was a great ethic especially with so few places remaining like this.
When Stevie did Bam Bam I didn’t call him a liar, a cheat, a wimp etc, to quote from my original ukb post
“sounds like a hard line climbed with pretty minimal inspection (and a very good line) I would be far more excited if he dropped the grade a little and stuck to the ground up ethic though!”
This isn’t really slagging him off or starting a witch hunt is it? If someone came to the grit and placed bolts they would receive far more grief but that could be down to a couple of things; people care more about the ethic on gritstone and see the placement of a bolt as a bigger ‘crime’, and Stevie has a history of developing the Lleyn (and Doris in particular) so this is as much ‘his crag’ as anyone’s.
I didn’t jump into great debate and slagging off of Stevie (on here or ukb) until Stevie popped up and essentially said ‘you are too inexperienced and too shit to have a valid opinion’ (this may not be what he meant but it is how it kinda sounded and I don’t think I was ever slagging him off just trying to discuss the ethics in this area which I happen to feel quite strongly about)
If it turns out I have been wrong about the ethic - if you are climbing hard enough you can abb inspect - then firstly, Stevie and Leigh I am sorry, and secondly what a crap ethic. Reminds me of the times on Peak Limestone when if you were one of the top boys climbing hard routes bolts were fine but a less good climber on an easier route and your bolts were chopped.
I think that what Stevie is saying i.e. it is ok to abb inspect across the board (he says he had no issue with Rust Never Sleeps, unlike other activists and the guide writers) is a much clearer, simpler, fairer and less elitist ethic. I would prefer a ground up ethic but much prefer Stevie’s idea than some mixed one ‘It ‘s ok, we know you, your good enough you can do what you want’.
Again if I have got the wrong idea about the local ethics (and surely you can see why) then I apologies to the people involved. I wait to hear (although probably not on here – I don’t think any will post) what the other activists feel about this ethic. It is not for one or two people to decide on the ethic (in either direction) but based on overall opinions and history.
Why is it my posts are always 5 times longer than anyone else’s? I am normally a pretty quiet guy!