In reply to robin mueller:
I think its interesting (and bizarre) that people have become so desensitised to these amazing achievements that they could suggest they aren't news!!
My jaw drops when I think of how physically and mentally difficult it must be to perform such a staggering feat - until 9a has been onsighted a few times this really is news in my opinion.
For what its worth (FA actually, but there you go!!) and potentially to generate a bit of discussion, my interpretation of whats newsworthy in sport climbing terms goes a little like this:
International climbers:
- 'normal' redpoint: 9a+ and above
- fast repeat, ~2 tries: 9a and above
- onsight or flash: 8c+ and above
British climbers (except Steve McClure ;-p ):
- 'normal' redpoint: 8c and above
- fast repeat, ~2 tries: 8b+ and above
- onsight or flash: 8b and above
BTW The above isn't the usual 'diss' of British standards it's just that I, and I'm sure a lot of other people, am more interested in what british climbers are doing.