UKC

Can you give me some suggestions for spectacular multi pitch VDiffs or easy severes in the Lakes? Cheers, Sam.

In reply to sam83: Grooved Arete

In reply to sam83:
Little chamonix has an out-there top pitch, as does the severe on troutdale pinnacle. Is that the crag or route i cant remember.
Tophet wall is a bit harder at HS but very wild too!!

In reply to sam83: Juniper Buttress on Pikes crag tends to get over looked for Grooved arete, but its a fantastic route.

Bowfell Buttress

In reply to sam83: If you go and do Arête, Chimney and Crack, Gordon and Craig's Route, Murray's Route and Woodhouse's Route on Dow Crag you will have a top day. The positions you get into for the grades are outstanding. With present weather conditions everything will by dry and odds on you will have the routes to yourself.

In reply to sam83:

Troutdale Pinaccle - Severe (Black Crag, Borrowdale)
Kestrel Wall - Severe (Eagle Crag, Grisedale)
Little Chamonix - V Diff (Shepherds)

In reply to sam83:Another vote for Bow Fell Buttress. New West Climb on Pillar is excellent. I've always liked Gillercombe Buttress, though it's a bit rambly and many people don't rate it. Grey Crag in Buttermere has some excellent routes in the easier grades - Suaviter and Oxford and Cambridge Direct are both good severes and there are plenty of routes at V Diff on the crag.

In reply to stewart murray:

oh yes, how could I forget the Grey Crag link ups?! Oxford & Cambridge, superb.

In reply to Hammy:



Aye its a good one, but I thought Juniper was a more interesting excursion. We did BB in the pouring rain with plastic boots on and it was no pushover.

In reply to Hammy:


I'd second that. It's a great mountain route. I've done it several times in summer conditions when it is just good quality and enjoyable V Diff climbing, interesting all the way; and once in winter in the snow when it became quite challenging and Alpine like.

One of my favorite mountain days out.

In reply to J1234:


For fear of being accused of bullying may I repectfully suggest that you brush up on your geography?

In reply to sam83: Bowfell Buttress again, excellent excellent location, polished enough to be challenging in places, bit of exposure, good in most conditions, great in good conditions, adjust your footwear and kit accordingly

In reply to Trangia:




Is Pikes crag no longer in the Lakes?

In reply to Trangia:

Why would he want to do that?

In reply to Nicholas Livesey:

Thanks guys. You learn something every day (hangs head in shame...)

How does it compare with it's Welsh namesake?

In reply to sam83: Troutdale Pinnacle

In reply to sam83: I reckon that Bracket and slab on gimmer would fit the bill, also Murray's route on Dow is very nice

In reply to Trangia:

Not as good. But at least one very good pitch.

In reply to sam83:

Bowfell Buttress is in a lovely position but really the climbing isn't very good. (Much of it is little more than hard scrambling, with one pitch much harder than anything else on the route.) New West on Pillar is many times better in quality, indeed superb in every way.

In reply to Trangia: I prefer it to Bowfell Buttress and the position overlooking Wast Water is superb.

In reply to sam83: Wall & Corner and Thomas on Wallabarrow, Duddon. Thomas is the best severe in the western spiral arm of the Galaxy.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Any climbing after a long struggle up The Band seems to be a *** route to me - and increasingly so with age!

In reply to PeteC:

Don't get out much then?

In reply to PeteC:






Thomas is Ok but not in the same league as others mentioned IMO, and I like Wallowbarrow.

In reply to sam83:
Personal favourites, in retrospect, are the ones that scared me most !
Gimmer Chimney ( how do you get into the chimney, are you sure it's this one ? ), Oliverson Variation @ Lyons crawl on Gimmer ( 'read the route out again'? ), Moorheads Route Scafell pinnacle ( Gear ??? ).
Without being too scared Juniper Buttress on Pikes, Oxford and Cambridge Grey Crag, Abbey Buttress Napes, Gillercombe Buttress, West Wall Climb Pillar.
'Scrambles & Easy Climbs' by Sparks and Brown is a good starting place.

In reply to Nomisr: Do you mean Woodhead's Climb on Scafell?

I think Juniper Buttress would be a good bet, 5 pitches on fine rock in good position that catches the afternoon sun.

In reply to mark20:
Moorheads / Woodheads whatever, still no gear for the first 7m - you can lead it next time ! ( and it was in the shade, unlike the 2nd pitch which was nice and sunny, photogenic, and had more gear then you could shake a stick at )

Why are you recommending it as a Vdiff or easy severe then?

In reply to mark20:
'cos it's a mild severe in the 'traditonal style', probably rarely climbed, no polish, in a spectactular location ( if you can find it ) . It doesn't come much better in the lakes than finishing on top of the pinnacle does it ?
( does require abseil off or down climb ).

In reply to sam83:

Warm up on 'Slings', 'Ardus' and then spend a great couple of hours on 'Troutdale Pinnacle.'
Thought Little Cham was only a 'Hard Diff.'

In reply to bergalia:

Ardus is now MVS and Little Cham is indeed V Diff. Maybe the grades have changed over the years.

In reply to JonC:

Half a century of wear and tear Jon, I accept your word. Thanks.

In reply to bergalia:

Ardus was always HS in my book, and a sandbag for an aspiring severe leader. Probably why so many have hurt themselves on it in the past before protection was invented.

In reply to sam83:Not a VDiff only Diff but a mega route to do is C Ordinary route on Dow crag....Also Giants crawl at the same grade