UKC

I've been climbing for the last few years and have just recently been wondering what counts as going off route. My view is on long mountain routes everything is in (within reason) but on short grit routes there are a lot of routes close together so straying a metre left could put you on another route. Climbs like hargreives original at stanage seem to have no definate line as such and people just seem to climb to either side of the topo. To me this isn't off route as it's all the same kind of climbing all the way up. Just looking for opinions really. Do you stick to the line in the guide book religiously? In my opinion it depends on the route and if it's the crux ect, but I'd like to hear other peoples views. Cheers

In reply to jamiegoscote: Eliminates are the obvious answer as to when going onto another route's holds is out.

In reply to jamiegoscote:
I've heard the argument before that the line on the topo is the line taken with the hands, the feet or the heart so I guess as long as part of your body is on that general line, it's in. Also, I think gear is in if you can place it from the line. Before the days of photo topos would the vast majority of us have known where the exact line was from a written description? Fair enough on a crack but on a slab or a wall with horizontal breaks?

In reply to jamiegoscote:

Thats because every break is pretty much the same all along so it doesnt really matter where you climb it, it's the same route.

The difference is when you're on a route with big holds left or right of it. If its within reach then imo its on, and when you argue the case that its not all it means is that the line itself is contrived.

For the most part though its hardly a problem, most lines, even on grit are separated by enough distance to be their 'own' climb.

In reply to jamiegoscote:

The guide is just ....... a guide!

If all else fails, using a bit of common-sense with basic route finding skills will see you through!

To stray onto another route from Hargreaves' you would need to be on Black Magic or The Flange, both of which are quite away to either side.


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

And always remember, the FA took what they felt was the easiest way up the face or crack. If you do that you will not go far wrong in my mind.

In reply to jamiegoscote:
I go off route all the time its half the fun.