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'ow do all,
After washing my gear following some sea cliff fun, what are the relative merits of using WD40 or Silicone spray to lubricate cams, locking krabs (why is Krabs always spelt with a K?)and non-locking carabiners?
Cheers,
Lex
After washing my gear following some sea cliff fun, what are the relative merits of using WD40 or Silicone spray to lubricate cams, locking krabs (why is Krabs always spelt with a K?)and non-locking carabiners?
Cheers,
Lex
In reply to lex: use cam lube, its not all that expensive and its wax based. i use it and its worth getting. wd40 works but tends to attract dust etc. ive also used dry motorbike chain lube which is basically the same as metolius cam lube in that it is wax based. for krabs, a friend of mine uses graphite powder- he swears by it and it seems to work.
tom
tom
In reply to lex:
WD40 is not a lubricant so probably best not to use that. It will un-sieze things though.
WD40 is not a lubricant so probably best not to use that. It will un-sieze things though.
In reply to thomasfoote:
I don't rate cam lube the wax jsut gunks up my cams and attracts more dirt.
I'd advise finish line dry as being the best I've used.
WD40 is fine but washes off a bit too fast
I don't rate cam lube the wax jsut gunks up my cams and attracts more dirt.
I'd advise finish line dry as being the best I've used.
WD40 is fine but washes off a bit too fast
In reply to catt:
well actually it is a light lubricant.
Try spraying on something and leving to dry you will see a residue that is lubricating. It's just not all that good IMO
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
well actually it is a light lubricant.
Try spraying on something and leving to dry you will see a residue that is lubricating. It's just not all that good IMO
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
In reply to thomasfoote:
I've been told the Metolius cam lube is exactly the same thing as one of the popular bicycle chain lube (Finishline?) just relabeled for the climbing market. I personally use GT85, a PTFE based spray which I use on my bicycles. I think it's similar to the 'dry' chain lube but a bit thinner and cleaner. Worked very well for me.
I've been told the Metolius cam lube is exactly the same thing as one of the popular bicycle chain lube (Finishline?) just relabeled for the climbing market. I personally use GT85, a PTFE based spray which I use on my bicycles. I think it's similar to the 'dry' chain lube but a bit thinner and cleaner. Worked very well for me.
In reply to catt:
While WD-40 was developed as a water dispersant it IS a lubricant. Even the manufacturers say so. http://www.wd40.co.uk/
To the OP Wild country recommend WD-40, and (I believe) have tested it on fabric components to ensure it is safe. http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/HintsandTips/FAQs/
While WD-40 was developed as a water dispersant it IS a lubricant. Even the manufacturers say so. http://www.wd40.co.uk/
To the OP Wild country recommend WD-40, and (I believe) have tested it on fabric components to ensure it is safe. http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/HintsandTips/FAQs/
In reply to lex:
Because it is a shortened form of the original German word karabinerharken or "hook for a carbine". That said, many people do (incorrectly in my opinion) spell it with a "c".
For lubing your krabs, I would suggest a bicycle chain lube such as the Finish Line dry lube or wax lube, as these are less likely to pick up grit and muck. (I'm pretty sure that the Metolius cam lube is simply one of the Finish Line products with a different label.)
Make sure your krabs are properly dried out after their wash eg leave them on a radiator or in the airing cupboard for 12-24 hours, before lubing them.
> why is Krabs always spelt with a K?
Because it is a shortened form of the original German word karabinerharken or "hook for a carbine". That said, many people do (incorrectly in my opinion) spell it with a "c".
For lubing your krabs, I would suggest a bicycle chain lube such as the Finish Line dry lube or wax lube, as these are less likely to pick up grit and muck. (I'm pretty sure that the Metolius cam lube is simply one of the Finish Line products with a different label.)
Make sure your krabs are properly dried out after their wash eg leave them on a radiator or in the airing cupboard for 12-24 hours, before lubing them.
In reply to lex: Definitely use a dry lube on the cams.
I'm going to give this a go... http://tinyurl.com/ycafudf
I'm going to give this a go... http://tinyurl.com/ycafudf
In reply to Martin W:
maybe this one?
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/kry-tech.htm
Actually though I have found the wax lube picks up more dirt in the spring coils, is harder to clean and results in my cams getting clogged up faster, I used it for 2 bottles and then decided to revert back to finish line dry (which is a better lube than wd40 and is more likely to last, plus is easy to apply)
maybe this one?
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/kry-tech.htm
Actually though I have found the wax lube picks up more dirt in the spring coils, is harder to clean and results in my cams getting clogged up faster, I used it for 2 bottles and then decided to revert back to finish line dry (which is a better lube than wd40 and is more likely to last, plus is easy to apply)
In reply to jamestheyip:
GT85 is not a great lube, it makes a better cleaner and water dispersal agent. If you ride bikes much you'll know it washes off very quick and doesn't last very well.
GT85 is not a great lube, it makes a better cleaner and water dispersal agent. If you ride bikes much you'll know it washes off very quick and doesn't last very well.
In reply to lex:
Ive used WD40 since forever and it works great. Doesn't really seem to attract dirt for me.
Ive used WD40 since forever and it works great. Doesn't really seem to attract dirt for me.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Agree with that. I clean and lube my bike at least once a week during the winter so it's not too much of a problem. For large surface like the cassettes the spray it's much easier to apply than a bottle.
I only clean and lubricate my climbing gear once every few years (and after sea cliffs climbs). Not used many products long enough to tell the difference. I found GT85 spray works well for protecting winter gear from rust and it's very clean. Perhaps not too much different to WD40 actually except it's supposed to not wash off other lube as much as WD40 does.
> (In reply to jamestheyip)
> GT85 is not a great lube, it makes a better cleaner and water dispersal agent. If you ride bikes much you'll know it washes off very quick and doesn't last very well.
> GT85 is not a great lube, it makes a better cleaner and water dispersal agent. If you ride bikes much you'll know it washes off very quick and doesn't last very well.
Agree with that. I clean and lube my bike at least once a week during the winter so it's not too much of a problem. For large surface like the cassettes the spray it's much easier to apply than a bottle.
I only clean and lubricate my climbing gear once every few years (and after sea cliffs climbs). Not used many products long enough to tell the difference. I found GT85 spray works well for protecting winter gear from rust and it's very clean. Perhaps not too much different to WD40 actually except it's supposed to not wash off other lube as much as WD40 does.
In reply to CurlyStevo: maybe your using too much. ive been on the same little bottle for a year and a half. i have 18 cams.
In reply to lex: Just man up and use a bit of 3 in 1...
In reply to CurlyStevo: The Metolius cam lube bottle and cap are identical to the Finish Line dry lube packaging (black bottle, red cap), apart from the label. However, Metolius' do say that their cam lube has a "Patented, wax formula", although they then go on to say: "Goes on wet, sets up dry" which is almost the same wording that Finish Line use for their dry lube!
I use the Finish Line dry lube as that's what I use on my bike and I can get it easily from the Edinburgh Bicycle Co-Op.
Finish Line say:
The disadvantage of Dry Lubes: they have low water resistance and will wear quickly in rainy conditions or on rides with multiple deep stream crossings.
I don't think that is a consideration for krabs. Even if my gear got drenched in a torrential Scottish downpour (as you know, such things do sometimes occur) I think the krabs would survive being opened and closed a dozen or so times with some of the lube washed away.
I use the Finish Line dry lube as that's what I use on my bike and I can get it easily from the Edinburgh Bicycle Co-Op.
Finish Line say:
The disadvantage of Dry Lubes: they have low water resistance and will wear quickly in rainy conditions or on rides with multiple deep stream crossings.
I don't think that is a consideration for krabs. Even if my gear got drenched in a torrential Scottish downpour (as you know, such things do sometimes occur) I think the krabs would survive being opened and closed a dozen or so times with some of the lube washed away.
In reply to lex:
Another one here for Graphite spray. Fantastic lubricant without a lot of the disadvantages of WD40, plus no nasty chemicals to mess with your gear
Another one here for Graphite spray. Fantastic lubricant without a lot of the disadvantages of WD40, plus no nasty chemicals to mess with your gear
In reply to Monk:
Off course they do But it's a crap enough lubricant that you should use something else and save WD40 for it's intended purpose, flamethrower!
> (In reply to catt)
>
>
> While WD-40 was developed as a water dispersant it IS a lubricant. Even the manufacturers say so. http://www.wd40.co.uk/
>
>
> While WD-40 was developed as a water dispersant it IS a lubricant. Even the manufacturers say so. http://www.wd40.co.uk/
Off course they do But it's a crap enough lubricant that you should use something else and save WD40 for it's intended purpose, flamethrower!
In reply to lex:
Pretty much anything that's vaguely slippery will work in the short term, I've used everything from seawater, spit, olive oil, filthy black sump oil, WD40, graphite loaded WD40 and dry graphite to get/keep my cams moving. Obviously some are better than others!
The best long term solution is to keep them clean, dry and in regular use. Graphite helps keep everything nice if you can do this.
I don't keep my cams nice, I stuff them in my bag damp, I use them by the sea, I'm generally a slob so I tend to find the best solution for me is WD40. I rinse in boiling water, WD40 moving parts liberally and work them until they're free. Rinse it all off with boiling water and hang to dry (done in 10min because they're hot). Leaves nothing for muck to stick to but keeps the moving parts free for months of neglect at a time.
jk
Pretty much anything that's vaguely slippery will work in the short term, I've used everything from seawater, spit, olive oil, filthy black sump oil, WD40, graphite loaded WD40 and dry graphite to get/keep my cams moving. Obviously some are better than others!
The best long term solution is to keep them clean, dry and in regular use. Graphite helps keep everything nice if you can do this.
I don't keep my cams nice, I stuff them in my bag damp, I use them by the sea, I'm generally a slob so I tend to find the best solution for me is WD40. I rinse in boiling water, WD40 moving parts liberally and work them until they're free. Rinse it all off with boiling water and hang to dry (done in 10min because they're hot). Leaves nothing for muck to stick to but keeps the moving parts free for months of neglect at a time.
jk
1
In reply to thomasfoote:
I climb in an area with a lot of sea cliffs it's not unusual to be washing my gear weekly.
I climb in an area with a lot of sea cliffs it's not unusual to be washing my gear weekly.
In reply to lex:
I've always been happy to use WD40 on cams and krabs (hang up, spray, wipe off excess)
I've always been happy to use WD40 on cams and krabs (hang up, spray, wipe off excess)
In reply to Martin W:
Yes true but I know from using them on my bike that the finish line dry will work for one wet ride of 2-3 hours. The WD40 or GT85 last about 10 minutes - no joke
By the way the metloius wax forumla is definately different to finish line dry as the former has wax and the later doesn't.
Yes true but I know from using them on my bike that the finish line dry will work for one wet ride of 2-3 hours. The WD40 or GT85 last about 10 minutes - no joke
By the way the metloius wax forumla is definately different to finish line dry as the former has wax and the later doesn't.
In reply to jkarran:
never had to use boiling water on my cams, I find rinsing where possible within a day of use near sea cliffs seems to prevent this! (there have been trips I've not done this, but still never had a problem!)
never had to use boiling water on my cams, I find rinsing where possible within a day of use near sea cliffs seems to prevent this! (there have been trips I've not done this, but still never had a problem!)
In reply to CurlyStevo: Hmm boiling water and tape slings...doh!!!.
Rinseing rapidly after use with clean water and drying thoroughy and a light squirt of wd40 or plusgas is the best solution to salt water.
Rinseing rapidly after use with clean water and drying thoroughy and a light squirt of wd40 or plusgas is the best solution to salt water.
Apply Wd40 following the wash and scrub... (Water disperser 40 remember) , leave cams for 10 minutes then soak up excess WD40 with tissue.
Lube with Finish line silicone bike lube, wet or dry.
Works well.
Lube with Finish line silicone bike lube, wet or dry.
Works well.
In reply to muppetfilter:
Holding them by the sling provides plenty of incentive not to get hot water on the slings (the odd splash won't do any harm anyway). Most people can make a cuppa without throwing scalding water on themselves Very hot water saves me having to use detergent to get the grime off and they dry quicker, it just saves me time and hassle.
Indeed but assuming they've just been to the seaside, not in the sea I usually can't be arsed, I just inspect and fix them what they start to bind up.
jk
> (In reply to CurlyStevo) Hmm boiling water and tape slings...doh!!!.
Holding them by the sling provides plenty of incentive not to get hot water on the slings (the odd splash won't do any harm anyway). Most people can make a cuppa without throwing scalding water on themselves Very hot water saves me having to use detergent to get the grime off and they dry quicker, it just saves me time and hassle.
> Rinseing rapidly after use with clean water and drying thoroughy and a light squirt of wd40 or plusgas is the best solution to salt water.
Indeed but assuming they've just been to the seaside, not in the sea I usually can't be arsed, I just inspect and fix them what they start to bind up.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
prevention better than cure!
prevention better than cure!
In reply to jkarran:
OK but what about dyneema slings, I'm thinkiung the odd splash of boiling water definately could harm these, or am I being too paranoid!
OK but what about dyneema slings, I'm thinkiung the odd splash of boiling water definately could harm these, or am I being too paranoid!
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I can't think what damage hot water could cause dyneema, unless it was so hot it melted it. Any ideas at what temperature dyneema melts?
I can't think what damage hot water could cause dyneema, unless it was so hot it melted it. Any ideas at what temperature dyneema melts?
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I think you're erring toward paranoid there. Plus, if the sling is in your hand you simply can't get hot water on the sling, your skin is way more sensitive than the tape.
Prevention is indeed better than cure, despite knowing this I'm still a slob when it comes to my gear
jk
I think you're erring toward paranoid there. Plus, if the sling is in your hand you simply can't get hot water on the sling, your skin is way more sensitive than the tape.
Prevention is indeed better than cure, despite knowing this I'm still a slob when it comes to my gear
jk
In reply to Ben Callard:
144-152 degrees. Boiling water splashed on it isn't going to melt it. In fact, dunking it in the boiling water won't melt it, but they don't advise extended use above 80 degrees.
144-152 degrees. Boiling water splashed on it isn't going to melt it. In fact, dunking it in the boiling water won't melt it, but they don't advise extended use above 80 degrees.
In reply to Ben Callard:
pretty sure you can damage dyneema at well under 100 degrees c I think the damage point is roughly half the melting point which from memory is around 150 degrees C, please don't ask me to google all this again though
pretty sure you can damage dyneema at well under 100 degrees c I think the damage point is roughly half the melting point which from memory is around 150 degrees C, please don't ask me to google all this again though
In reply to icestorm: I've used various lubes in the past (ooh eer mrs...)
My Grandad used to get some stuff from Rolls Royce when he worked there - TRICK was all he ever called it. It was the most amazing lube there was! It'd penetrate any threads no matter how tight the nut/bolt was. No idea of its proper name though. WD40 and the like do lubricate but they have the disadvantage of washing off other lubes, for example, use it on a bike chain, it'll clean and lube for a while but it has washed away the greese in the bearings and dirt will get in and trash the rollers eventually. A good alternative to WD40 is 'son of a gun' dashboard shine stuff. Its silicone based and fishermen have used it for years to lubricate pole elastics. Its far far cheaper than the PTFE 'proper' stuff and as its silicone based it doesn't damage the elastics the pole uses. Locksmiths use graphite lube as no sticky residue is left. Think about it, sticky greese on a key, key in pocket, dirt sticks to key, dirt transfered to the lock and then causes further problems. To lube a lock, use the 'lead' from a pencil if you don't have proper graphite powered lube.
For cams, i wash in water using a toothbrush to get all the crud out and when dry use a tiny amount of silicone based lube, 'son of a gun' / 'amour-all' and the like.
Each to their own. Do what manufacturers say if you want. If I ask ford what oil i need for my car, whats the betting they'll say "only use ford oil"??
PS
WD40 is great for disolving tar spots off car bodies!
My Grandad used to get some stuff from Rolls Royce when he worked there - TRICK was all he ever called it. It was the most amazing lube there was! It'd penetrate any threads no matter how tight the nut/bolt was. No idea of its proper name though. WD40 and the like do lubricate but they have the disadvantage of washing off other lubes, for example, use it on a bike chain, it'll clean and lube for a while but it has washed away the greese in the bearings and dirt will get in and trash the rollers eventually. A good alternative to WD40 is 'son of a gun' dashboard shine stuff. Its silicone based and fishermen have used it for years to lubricate pole elastics. Its far far cheaper than the PTFE 'proper' stuff and as its silicone based it doesn't damage the elastics the pole uses. Locksmiths use graphite lube as no sticky residue is left. Think about it, sticky greese on a key, key in pocket, dirt sticks to key, dirt transfered to the lock and then causes further problems. To lube a lock, use the 'lead' from a pencil if you don't have proper graphite powered lube.
For cams, i wash in water using a toothbrush to get all the crud out and when dry use a tiny amount of silicone based lube, 'son of a gun' / 'amour-all' and the like.
Each to their own. Do what manufacturers say if you want. If I ask ford what oil i need for my car, whats the betting they'll say "only use ford oil"??
PS
WD40 is great for disolving tar spots off car bodies!
In reply to blanchie14c:
And getting locksmith's graphite off plastic kitchen sinks/surfaces
jk
> PS
> WD40 is great for disolving tar spots off car bodies!
> WD40 is great for disolving tar spots off car bodies!
And getting locksmith's graphite off plastic kitchen sinks/surfaces
jk
In reply to lex:
Thanks all for your comments.
35 replies, 35 opinions!
Seems the Finishline style stuff might have the edge so I'll give that a go, instead of the usual spot of WD40 and wipe off the excess I've been using for years, and see how it goes.
Cheers,
Lex
Thanks all for your comments.
35 replies, 35 opinions!
Seems the Finishline style stuff might have the edge so I'll give that a go, instead of the usual spot of WD40 and wipe off the excess I've been using for years, and see how it goes.
Cheers,
Lex
In reply to lex:
I just clean the cams in the bath after they've been put in for a long soak then let them dry and use some WD40 on them. It seems to be fine with them not gumming up or anything.
I just clean the cams in the bath after they've been put in for a long soak then let them dry and use some WD40 on them. It seems to be fine with them not gumming up or anything.
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