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Eastern peak, E2

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 LakesWinter 02 Oct 2009
Ok, it's time to onsight an E2 and stop pansying around. What are some good ones in the Eastern Peak? I've not got any petrol money so stuff in the new burbage guide or at stanage is great coz it's near home. I like slabs and walls and routes with rests, overhanging jamming cracks are definitely an area for improvement!
 Yanis Nayu 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: Brown's Eliminate at Froggatt. Rather bold at the top though.
OP LakesWinter 02 Oct 2009
In reply to wayno265: Ok, I'll put it on the list, is it a good one to start on?
 Pagan 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Brown's Eliminate is ok if you're confident on your feet and can keep your head together. I found it scary as f*ck the first time though and if you did mess up the top bit it wouldn't be pretty, although it's easy enough by then.

I was going to suggest Wuthering - gear above your head for the bizarre move out of the chimney, bold but easy traverse, place gear then spooky (but great) wall climbing up to the ledge. You might feel a bit cheated by that though as it's probably only E1 really.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

E2
** Silica Stanage Plantation
*** Billy Whizz Lawrencefield
** Apollo Curbar
** Cave Eliminate Stanage Popular
*** The Rasp Higgar Tor
* Easy Picking Rivelin
*** Five Finger Exercise Cratcliffe
** Synopsis Froggatt
** Fern Groove Stanage Plantation (!)
** Insanity Curbar
*** Fern Hill Cratcliffe
** Suspense Lawrencefield
*** Quietus Stanage High Neb
*** The Dangler Stanage Popular
** Sorb Burbage South
*** Regent Street Millstone
** Pearls Chatsworth
*** Elder Crack Curbar
** Knightsbridge Millstone
* Dirty Stop Out Bamford
** Erb Millstone
*** Orang-outang Stanage End (!)
** The Sentinel Burbage North
* Brightside Froggatt
*** Brown's Eliminate Froggatt
* Monday Blue Stanage Plantation
** Yosemite Wall Stanage Popular
* Sundowner Froggatt
*** Wuthering Stanage Popular
** Brimstone Millstone
* Via Dexter Direct Stanage Popular
* Only Just Millstone (!)
* The Original Route Rivelin
** Pot Black Stanage Plantation
*** Tower Face Direct Stanage Plantation
** Shock Horror Slab Stanage Plantation (!)
** Auricle Bamford
** Soyuz Curbar
E1
** Kayak Curbar (!)
* Cinturato Stanage Plantation (!)
* Smoke ont' Watter Curbar
** Great Peter Lawrencefield
*** Desperation Stanage Popular
* Now or Never Burbage North
** The Toy Curbar (!)
* The Fin Burbage North
** The Unprintable Stanage Popular
* The Left Eliminate Curbar
*** The Tippler Stanage Popular
** Dark Continent Stanage Popular
*** L'Horla Curbar
** The Wobbler Stanage End (!)
*** Moyer's Buttress Gardoms
** Wrong Hand Route Bamford
* Acheron Stanage Popular
*** Millwheel Wall Burbage South
*** Embankment 3 Millstone

That is the graded list (E2s plus top-end E1s) out of Eastern Grit - should do as a starter and maybe lifetime tick list!

Chris
 spacey817 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: I onsighted Soyuz @ Curbar last week as my first ever E2. It was really good, slightly pumpy but with good gear if you do fall. I would recommend it to anyone as their first E2.
OP LakesWinter 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: So from that exclamation mark do you reckon Cinturato is nearer E2 or HVS? I led it onsight in April and found it pretty scary, but very good.
 Al Evans 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: Kayak is probably E2 for people not as tall as you Chris.
 Moacs 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Do you want safe or easier and bold?

Safe - Brightside

Bold - Brown's eliminate

Both bottom end.

If you want safe and easy (i.e. the softest E2 tick in the Peak), Auricle.

J
 1234None 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

I reckon Suspense is a good one. Solid at the grade. Bold 5a(ish) start to good but fiddly gear, then a couple of hard 5c moves (peg) to the top. Great climbing, and relatively safe after the bold but easy start.

Alternatively - on a non-grit theme, try Armageddon @ Stoney, or in fact any of the E2s on Windy Buttress.
 Martin Haworth 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG
At Millstone: Knightsbridge or Regents Street. Both safe both middle of the grade and both brilliant.
 Al Evans 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Martin Haworth: I think Regent Street is quite hard, just on the 10ft finger crack. maybe my fingers are the wrong size.
 Al Evans 02 Oct 2009
In reply to 1234None:
> (In reply to MattG)
> Alternatively - on a non-grit theme, try Armageddon @ Stoney, or in fact any of the E2s on Windy Buttress.

Yep, Armageddon has gone up from VS. Scoop Wall is a good one. I personally find Carlswark Crack a bit soft.
 SGD 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: How about Wall end Slab (original version) - stanage planation area, I've soloed it a couple of times and it always feels really good
 mat_galvin 02 Oct 2009
In reply to SGD:
Billy Whizz. Great gear and a safe fall once you've got to the headwall. On my ticklist to lead!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

The (!) are there indicate routes that are short of votes on RF DataBase. I guess those need treating with a touch more care.

Chris
 Bulls Crack 02 Oct 2009
In reply to mat_galvin:
> (In reply to SGD)
> Billy Whizz. Great gear and a safe fall once you've got to the headwall. On my ticklist to lead!

As a first E2 for someone who doesn't want anything too pumpy?

Not the best advice I've heard!
 Si dH 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:
Pot Black, Kayak, Sentinel, Wuthering, Tower Face Direct are all soft.

Browns Eliminate is in a similar vein but a bit harder - the hard scary moves go on for longer and are a bit technical (no argument about E2 for this one IMO - the others could be given E1 if feeling particularly stingy). Ratbag also similar difficulty to BE perhaps, although not as dangerous.

If you want to avoid bold stuff youll have to climb harder, but Brimstone, Soyuz (both pumpy), Auricle and Erb are all reasonable too.


Overall, TFD is the easiest, then maybe Auricle as long as youre 5ft10 or more.
 Max factor 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Auricle Bamford is probably 5C move now that the 'ear' has come off, but you couldn't ask for better gear. You'll piss it after that if you can do the move and shouldn't come to harm if you can't.
 lowersharpnose 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Si dH:

Ratbag also similar difficulty to BE perhaps, although not as dangerous.

In my subjective experience BE was much easier than Ratbag. With BE, the hard moves are quite close to the gear. Whereas, Ratbag has hard moves quite a long way above gear.

Shock Horror Slab is a worth consideration when conditions are good. It has low, hard, bouldery crux and no gear above. You need to be happy soloing on easy-ish ground (is it 5a up top?).

Over at the Stanage North, I found Rimmington Place (E2 5c) quite amenable, it starts off up an HVS, Old Salt, then has well protected, boulder problem finish.

Brightside is safe and tricky. Wuthering is good and varied.


lsn
 Mr Powly 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:
Tower Face direct at stanage is really good and not too hard
 Rich Guest 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:
> Ok, it's time to onsight an E2 and stop pansying around.

Haven't you thought about just going out and having a great time, with great people, not caring about the grades...

....nah didn't think so.

Don't blame you either. Cos it's piss boring! 8-)
 Martin Haworth 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Si dH: Ratbag is pretty dangerous in my opinion. I fell off the top crux move and fell a loooong way and broke my ankle.
 mikeski 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: when you have petrol money get yourself to Cratcliffe and get on at least one of the E2s there
 Owen W-G 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

There are plenty of E2s that feel easier than many HVS/E1s. I avoid hard work ones. They are my favourites.
Try for size..

Auricle - one move wonder, safe, easy if tall
Tower Face Direct - superficially bold but bomber #9 or 10 sideways nut at crux, easiest of the lot
Wuthering - Top roped crux, bold but straightforward traverse to good gear than tech to the top
Suspense - hard but ultimately safe indoor wall-esq moves from picnic ledges to contemplate how to do them, bring a few offset wires to pass the time but normal wires to #6 will do
Yosemite Wall - bold start, take it or leave it but pretty easy but only not really 2 star
Monday Blue - bold but not hard, not particularly good tho either
Brightside - enjoyable and safe with a hard traverse, best well planned from the ground
Browns Eliminate - classic boldness but gets progressively easier, if you've got your head about you it'll be a breeze
Moyers Buttress - you done it yet?
 Owen W-G 02 Oct 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:

And Pot Black @ Stanage, felt easier than Billiard Buttress to me.
 stayfreejc 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: My first E2 was yosemite wall but I shit myself doing it. Auricle is easy for E2. If you climb E1 you will have no trouble on it. The gear for the crux is bomber.
 1234None 02 Oct 2009
In reply to lowersharpnose:
> (In reply to Si dH)
quite a long way above gear.
>
> Shock Horror Slab is a worth consideration when conditions are good. It has low, hard, bouldery crux and no gear above. You need to be happy soloing on easy-ish ground (is it 5a up top?).

I'd say yes, about 5a-ish


> Brightside is safe and tricky.

Agree - I reckon most people who say it's easy traverse around the arete too high, missing the hard 5c move.


 Wft 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: I was pretty much in the same mind as you a month or two ago. tower face direct and pot black are both soft at E2, and well protected, not sure they'll stay at E2 though. yosemite wall, i think is a bit dangerous. I dogged wuthering but i would suggest it as its steady and the move across to the arete will make it a very memorable first E2. If you've got good slab technique then kayak at curbar is ok (and E2!), worth the lead as well as the top move is no push-over, Enjoy.
 Dave Garnett 02 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Another vote for Soyuz. While you're at Curbar you could try Predator. Slightly artificial but well-protected if you take care to put a small wire in above the roof before you go for it.
 Rich Guest 03 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: You're biggest concern now ought to be claiming an E2 ONSIGHT!! The threads turned into a beta database ffs
In reply to MattG:

I think I must be be only person who doesn't think Tower Face Direct is the softest of soft touches. The gear I placed near the TFD crux looked far from bomber (has anyone fallen and had it hold?). As for the crux move, I thought it was a tenuous and smeary feeling 5b/c, which with the real feeling prospect of scraping the ground made it good for the grade. Maybe I was just having a fearful day but it didn't feeling any softer than most grit E2s, and certainly harder than Wuthering and Yosemite Wall.

Mind you, I do find it hard to compare routes, especially across rock types. Contrast a limestone E2 classic like Wombat, Scoop Wall, or Darius, with the one-move-wonder grit E2s that are being written about. One type leaves you with an allover body pump that refuses to subside, the other with just a lingering memory of feeling nervy before commiting to a move that wasn't as bad as feared.
 neil the weak 03 Oct 2009
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose: I'd agree the move itseld was one of those insecure smeary sort of affairs that would be hard to be cool through if there wasn't good gear. I thought there was though, I got a big wire (a no9 i think) flat side on into a shallow looking depression just before the crux. Pretty sure it was absolutely bomber, the scoop is almost custom fitted to the wire in shape, I remember being very pleasnatly surprised by it anyway (didn't test it though).
 Bulls Crack 03 Oct 2009
In reply to Max_01:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
>
You'll piss it after that if you can do the move and shouldn't come to harm if you can't.

Not necessarily for some (many?) climbers. I can do hard moves next to/near gear but my technical prowess falls off markedly above gear!
OP LakesWinter 03 Oct 2009
In reply to Cragrat Rich: Ah, I wouldn't say there's any beta that I couldn't discern from the ground. I've looked at all the mentioned routes over the years and sussed the alleged beta given already (with my eyes, no on an abseil or anything!).

Anyway, you're right about the other comment you posted, why waste around having a 'chilled out time' doing easy climbs up ledges when you could do something that is taxing instead
OP LakesWinter 03 Oct 2009
In reply to all: Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming. I should go and attempt one tomorrow so I'll let you know how I get on
 Jon Stewart 03 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

For total soft-touches that are easier than a proper hvs:

- pot black
- tower face direct

For low-end, bold:

- yosemite wall
- brown's eliminate
- kayak

For highballs (highly dubious e2 ticks with pads)

- shock horror slab
- not be taken away
- daydreamer

For safe, low-end

- soyuz
- brightside (although i failed on it for some reason, i think the crux is pretty hard)
- auricle (odd one, everyone says it's easy, and i can do the move to the now crap flake hold, but can't get any further)
- wombat (if you can hang on for a while)

For a challenge

- five finger exercise
- fern groove (nails!)
- the rasp (i'm putting this off the day that never arrives when i've got some stamina)

On limestone, chee tor is stacked with great e2s, but it's a bit dirty and time is running out this year...
 madmats 03 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

My 1st and 2nd E2 leads were Tower face direct and Pot Black, in that order one evening after work last year. I found them both steady, but at the same time bold, PB is runout above excellent gear and TFD is tricky by good, but unorthodox gear. Reckon good conditions and a steady nerve will help on both.

Also worth trying is Brown's Eliminate, again hard move above good gear, then runout, but ultimately safe for crux.

Erb at Millstone is HVS to half way, then hard, but very well protected move to gain slab, then crux slab move with excellent gear (if you have the right cam).

Whilst there try Knightsbridge, I found it okay with very good small wire pro, good rests with one hard 5c, but well proteced crux move.

All excellent 3 star routes. Good luck, and most of all, enjoy!
 Si dH 03 Oct 2009
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Sorry to hear that. Have to say though (tpo you an lsn) that I thoguht there were trickymoves on BE (5a and not obvious) where fallign off would lead ot much worse than a broken ankle. I would agree there are perhaps harder moves on Ratbag way above the gear - but also much further from the ground - youre never going to deck out, whereas on BE you are - badly.
OP LakesWinter 04 Oct 2009
In reply to Si dH: So I went out today, got warmed up at lawrencefield, went to curbar to do Kayak and it was raining there, so we headed up to Stanage and I got into the idea of doing Goliath's Groove instead, which I did, but the E2 I did not. I've realised I need to do a bunch of E1's and get a bit more experience first.
 ripper 04 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: I'd propose Captain Reliable at Staden Quarry - slabby limestone, good gear, easy-ish to at least half height with a rest possible before it starts to earn the grade
OP LakesWinter 04 Oct 2009
In reply to ripper: I've wanted to go to staden for a while now so thanks for the tip
 garethmorgan 05 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:
Brown's was my first E2, but then I like boldish, slabby things. There's good gear where it counts, at a rest ledge. And it's lovely climbing. Sundowner is like Sunset Slab - straightforward if you're feeling confident, but no real protection.
By public transport, Scoop Connection at Lawrencefield is probably E2 - there's decent gear where it branches off from Suspense, and the shelf is much easier than it looks. Although it's still scary. I haven't tried Suspense, actually, but I guess it's reasonable - the first half is nice. Great Peter is top-end E1 with the 5c start, I suppose, so it's a good wall climb to do and get an idea of how you're doing. Billy Whizz looks nails!
The Sentinal at Burbage is onsightable if you're feeling strong enough to look for the holds.
 Owen W-G 05 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Does Staden count as eastern peak?

Went to Staden for first time t'other week and it comes highly recommended. All the routes we did were on good rock with solid holds and bomber gear and are more technical than strenuous.

Give bicycle man a pop, and if it goes well have a stab at Liquid courage. Believe me, it's lots easier than it looks - the steepness is mega juggy - and is pretty safe.
 Tom Last 05 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Brightside and Grip at Froggatt.

Brightside is excellent and very safe, I've tested the gear!

Grip is up the slab and arete right of Heather Wall. There's a good rest below the hard bit, which is a bit of a slap or two, but pretty straightforward. Best not to fall off of this one.

Cheers,
Tom
 matt pigden 05 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: I've ust climbed blck hawk bastion. On rock fax and stanage guide it comes in at E3, but other guides give E2. Either way, its a good route with good protection.
 Jon Stewart 05 Oct 2009
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

> Contrast a limestone E2 classic like Wombat, Scoop Wall, or Darius, with the one-move-wonder grit E2s that are being written about. One type leaves you with an allover body pump that refuses to subside, the other with just a lingering memory of feeling nervy before commiting to a move that wasn't as bad as feared.

True, true. But the nervy feeling half way through the move can be way more intense than just pulling on holds wondering whether or not you're going to get a decent enough rest to recover and not slump onto a bit of gear, or a rusty old peg. The crack cocaine of climbing, perhaps.

OP LakesWinter 10 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG: Mission accomplished, onsighted Pot Black today, nice moves, good gear, thoroughly enjoyed it. I also led Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct with a side runner at E2, but I had previously followed the top rib so not an onsight, but a fun lead nonetheless. Thanks for the recommendations, hopefully I can try a few more in the next month or 3.
 1234None 10 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:
Nice one - think I saw you on it. Out of interest, where is the side runner on W.E. slab superduperdirect? I don't recall any side-runner potential?
OP LakesWinter 15 Oct 2009
In reply to 1234None: Ah, then you would have seen the faffing too, ha! According to the new stanage guide a side runner can be placed from the ledge at the base of the rib in the short crack on the left, which is what I did. The move up the rib is the hardest move I've ever led, but I think I can do harder.

Hopefully get on some more E1's this weekend and maybe Kayak if it looks ok.
 1234None 15 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

Nice one - I remember Wall End Slab Direct/Superduperdirect being fairly safe with the cam in the pocket down and right.

Kayak is fine if you're reasonably tall. Much easier than the top bit of WE Slab Direct I thought.
OP LakesWinter 15 Oct 2009
In reply to 1234None: Sounds good regarding Kayak then, I reckon we'll be at Curbar if the weather is ok coz my mate is super keen to do Soyuz and various other routes there and it's his turn to choose venue
 lowersharpnose 15 Oct 2009
In reply to MattG:

After Kayak, you could try Canoe if you are feeling confident.
OP LakesWinter 15 Oct 2009
In reply to lowersharpnose: Yeah, my friend said the same last weekend, so I think I shall see how it goes, hopefully
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> E1
> ** Kayak Curbar (!)
> * Cinturato Stanage Plantation (!)
> * Smoke ont' Watter Curbar
> ** Great Peter Lawrencefield
> *** Desperation Stanage Popular
> * Now or Never Burbage North
> ** The Toy Curbar (!)
> * The Fin Burbage North
> ** The Unprintable Stanage Popular
> * The Left Eliminate Curbar
> *** The Tippler Stanage Popular
> ** Dark Continent Stanage Popular
> *** L'Horla Curbar
> ** The Wobbler Stanage End (!)
> *** Moyer's Buttress Gardoms
> ** Wrong Hand Route Bamford
> * Acheron Stanage Popular
> *** Millwheel Wall Burbage South
> *** Embankment 3 Millstone
>

I know this isn't the full list, but you've got Kayak top and embankment 3 bottom! What ever drugs you were on when you made this up I want some.

(To be fair though I am 6'2" and about as strong as wet, tesco value toilet roll..)
 Matt Maynard 26 Oct 2009
In reply to Shaun L: I think Great West Road at Millstone was one of my first E2s on grit.
Oragutang at Stanage End was another first and is considered to be soft touh I believe.

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