At the end of September, Miles Gibson climbed a new gritstone E9 at Wimberry. Whilst Miles concentrated on his new line, his climbing partner Ben Heason managed a rare repeat of the hard route Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) at the same crag.
Speaking about the route Ben said:
"Physically it's the most sustained hard grit route I've done so far with no particularly easy moves on it. The climbing is highly technical, often with tenuous footholds and a crux slap up the arête from a 1-finger pebble (by which time the gear/rope is redundant), culminating with taking a small pebble in each hand to make a super high step to a smeary top-out."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2152